Posts by TravAZ

    You can do it either way, but it is best to send out for the updated tune first. In this way, it will run a bit rich with the stock exhaust manifold and then correct with the new header installed.

    I'm sure the Alpha header tune has some small changes in it. Anytime Bob can spend more time in a machine tuning, he works very hard to make changes to get the tune even closer to perfect. He is aware of the rich condition and is working through more complex tables to test solutions. It is a confusing situation, but revolves around throttle position % and how it correlates to the pedal position %. Fly be wire is sure fun.... You can easily drive around this condition by shifting at higher RPMs.

    https://youtu.be/Pgln9L5Y7sQ

    If I were you, I would run red and natural springs, as this puts you right around 9psi on this setup. It should run really good at this boost level and there is less to worry about than going with a green spring.

    My 2bar map sensor has now blown completely out of my intake manifold twice. It has always been at full boost at high RPMS in 2nd and 3rd gear. I have also had this issue with another guys machine that I worked on locally in AZ awhile ago.

    It is a bad deal when this happens and the machine runs like crap immediately. Both times I got out of it right away and wasn't looking at my AFRs closely. I should have downloaded the logs, but didn't realize it was important at the time. Once at idle and pulled over, the machine will run super rich and will have a big miss to it. Not sure what happens to AFRs exactly if you don't get out of it right away...

    After the 2nd time, I pulled it out and made a couple of changes. When I pulled it out, I noticed my rubber grommet/surround was starting to crack/tear. I took it off completely and made my own with rubber hose and rubber caps that were cut to size so it would fit VERY snug. I then sprayed glass cleaner on both parts and shoved it in. Once I knew it was really secure, I put a screw between the clips so that they are forced out to hold it into place. See below.

    Hard to tell which issue came first, but I wanted to give some more info from my experiences.

    I would just have MEFI Bob tune the one you have. It is a lot of hassle and $$$ to get an extra ECM.


    If you want it back to stock, just have the dealer flash the Polaris ECM current program over it.

    The ECM tune for your supercharger is programmed to idle at 1k. It idles smoother there and that is where the turner has set it. This is the case with almost all of the boosted tunes. I am very glad he moved the idle up.

    The "rev hang" is an ongoing issue and is something most of us just have to live with.

    Honestly, the stability control does quite an amazing job in keeping you out of major trouble.

    I wish I had the time/energy to post all of the laps. Some laps I was pushing really hard chasing a retired nascar road course car and full track setup Porsche GT3. On a couple of these laps, you can watch the stability control save my ass from spinning around a couple of times.

    Those laps looked fast, but only because I was on the boundary of losing control. Times weren't any faster than the couple of laps seen in the video.

    Watched a SRT 4 spin out and hit the wall, the nascar car spin, and a 2016 Z07 package Vette hit the wall and start on fire. 3 of 4 sessions had black flags.

    Here is a couple of laps from the track day on Friday....

    Slingshot Track Day Video - MONDO

    Running a green spring that produces 12psi of boost on my machine. Installed ARP headstuds and was running VP Fuel MS109 mixed 50/50 with 91 to make sure I didn't get any detonation. Alpha sway bar installed with end links flipped to run on the stiffest setting.

    It was hard to get open laps because I kept on catching people. 3 of 4 sessions were black flagged with crashes.

    Top speed was well over 130mph on the straight away. Track was 2.5 miles long.

    Just have the seller or local shop shave the rear wheel from 42mm to 45mm and you will be center. Should work just fine and contact patch will probably be pretty similar. If are aren't worried about performance and you have some bags covering some of the wheels, it should work just fine.

    going for a new look.The front rim is 18x7.5 but the offset is +40 not + 42. The rear rim is 20x8 not 20x9 with +42 not +45 will that do anything? Wish the back was a little wider, but no luck in this style. Thanks

    Leave the fronts the way they are and have them shave as much off the rear rim as possible. Usually they can take 3mm which would get you right back to center 45mm.


    Careful on your choice of getting a pretty narrow rear wheel. Many us at even 10 inches wish we would have went wider.