Posts by rydahog

    hang on i will tell you what i got....brb :)


    i used the 9.5165r..and it did not fit..so i got one a big larger...this one....and it is the pict above i posted..also to small...i dont think it compresses that much..?

    So after installing the new brake light switch posted here...>>Sooo i searched around and i found these same TYPE sw..https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026NAWPC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
    i took the SS for a test ride today,,and BAM! awesome..everything works as it should..no cruise disengaging and no weird feelings like brakes are being applied periodically,,,no loss of speed...etc..40 mile ride and cruise works perfect.so in a nut shell for me...this braek switch above is better then the NAPA one posted in other places...jmho!...thanks all for reading...

    hi roaddog,,,ok here is where i am at.i installed the Napa brake light switch actually (2), , and the problem with these switches is that the prongs are loose inside housing...and the very slighest touch to them or jogging in any way disconnects the circuit and then keep brake lights on and also disable cruise,,and when this continues it give check engine light and or the squiggly lines on dash guage..so what i did for now was to put some crazy glue onto the side of both prongs ,,,,and just came back from a ride,,and seems like it made the brakes light switch work as it should...no issues like before..but i will take it out again in a while to verify.
    Sooo i searched around and i found these same TYPE sw..https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0026NAWPC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
    So on the original switch the white plunger when depressed by the actuator arm would have to go in all the way before opening the circuit. With the new one it only has to get depressed slightly before makeing the switch open...i will install this in a swhile and see how it works on the SS..:) hope that splains it ok..lol i will try to make a video to show and tell.hahha..

    hi,,its weird,,,i have two of these sw...and both plungers are ALL the way in before making contact..:( plungers go all the way to black part of switch housing..in any case..the plungers are not my issue..its the PRONGS on back side...that when i touch them after its all installed. if i touch the prongs ever so slightly..the brake lites go on..:(

    slingshot brake light switch operation.


    See how far actuator goes into the white plunger before making contact and brake lites go on...

    ok i am back...let try to splain..the napa switch was working fine..then it seems as if the internal connections of this switch started to make and break as time went on which in turn made the brake lights go on and off which effected cruise and made the SS seem like it was loosing power on and off on a typical ride...so i went to napa and got a new switch...today i attempted to install this switch and also made a new bracket ..now it seems its not working at all...i put a continuity tester across it and it shows closed all the time? keeping the lights on all the time..no matter what position plunger is. i took wires off the sw..and put them together and the brake lights came on as they should/// i dont get this as its a simple make or break switch? any help..or do i need to get lucky and get a new switch again from Napa? thanks for any insight..

    Actually you are on track...i found out the issue...its the magnetic brake switch that forum posted (napa switch),,,so as i am steady speed as you say, the magnetic switch is starting to go bad..it sends signal as if i am steady speed and also hitting brake at same time, confusing the ecu? or something..that makes SS seem like its loosing power/braking...then when the mag. sw stops its fault...it goes back to normal operation,,until next time...so i went to Napa and got a new switch...but as i am hooking it up the friggin battery died,,hahah,,so i gotta wait now till it charges///thats another thing,,when your battery is LOW..(it will show in dash) there is not enough power to get your brake lights to work with the magnetic switch or turn on your headlights fully...:( //

    so i was doing about 70 on hwy, when it seemed like the brakes engaged/ or like loss of power for 2-3 secs. then it was ok..then it did it again..to my destination and back home..check engine light came on..i pulled over and saw this code.520275...manual says...throttle brake override//..what is fix for this..thanks :)

    i did this brake mod,,but i think i got it tuned in to perfect..it seems that as soon as i touch,,,i mean lightly touch the brake pedal..or a bump in the road jiggles...the pedal...the bike slows down for about 5 secs? then resumes speed? any thoughts on this...no lights on dash.

    ok,,so far so good...great day,,made appt..in and out and home in 3hrs,,new part and she is shifting awesome...now to address the loss of power at times...i think that the brake master switch had to be adjusted a bit,,its almost to accurate..:) so time to check and adjust ..:)

    ok finally updated my Appt, since irma rolled in...for new clutch reservoir installation, i hope this goes as easy as it looks..and the tech got his act together...yes i am the eternal pessimist lol, , i am not sure, but it seems to me that whenever my clutch reservoir is low my brakes kick in? trying to get a grip on this,,its almost like reduced power for a few seconds,,(5) then its ok....i think the brake magnetic switch is ok..but i need some ideas..? thoughts.