Ok awesome so there is a hose that will work. It looks like it might be a snug fit though with those curves.
Do you know of anyone who has successfully put one there? Would you happen to know what size adapter I would need for that hose? I’ve seen online people saying 32mm all the way up to 36mm, but I believe they’re referring to the upper and lower radiator hoses.
So I was pretty set on just buying one of those radiator hose adapters where you cut the hose and put the piece between and it has an outlet for a temp sensor.
I recently read that it’s pretty in accurate because of the thermostat being open/closed which makes sense.
I’d like to add a sensor where I’m gonna get an accurate reading at all times. Is that easily possible?
It kills me not having a temp gauge. I don’t want to wait until an overheating light comes on the dash to know I’m overheated.
I have two 4 channel Power Acoustik Razor amps under my drivers seat. One has been there for 2+ years. No issues.
I have them mounted on 1/2” spacers though to protect from any water that might be on the floorboard.
I also take my SS to the coin wash at least once a week. Been caught in rain a few times. Everything gets wet. No issues. No marine rated overpriced BS.
I didn’t want to put them under the rear fin because
1. No airflow
2. Water pours in the area from the top of the fin through the 3rd brake light gap and the thin plastic black piece on the fin.
I've seen those, definitely like them, just can't justify $200+ on any metal circle that simply is there for LED strips to adhere to lol.
I've never actually been on their site before, I found quite a few goodies that I like/want though!
I might stop by my uncles garage (he does metal fab work) and bring some supplies with me and weld up some brackets myself. Wouldn't cost more than $20 in materials.
Maybe not though...because its just gonna amplify how small my base wheels are 
I do all of my own work and lighting, including strips everywhere. I refuse to pay the absolutely obscene prices that some of these Slingshot companies are charging for the same thing you can buy on other sites for 1/8th the price but have to trim them myself, etc. (Sure, they don't have a lifetime warranty, but I could buy them brand new 8 times and still have spent less 
)
I am really wanting to get into the wheel lights now, but I really don't know whats good and bad out there. I have my own strips (Literally hundreds of feet worth of spools in my garage) I just need rings.
Thanks for any help! (And any smartass comments that follow 
)
I ended up diving in before even seeing your guys’ responses lol, thank you!
Also, very awesome to know with the muffler. He gave me a spare muffler as well so I might experiment with it and add a second hole like I’ve seen on a post from here.
Cat was pretty easy to swap out. I’m bummed though, didn’t realize until I got mine out, that this other one is missing a spring loop. It’s still installed (boy what a difference) but I hear a little raspiness and can’t tell if it’s from a leak or if it’s just because the cat is gutted.
I’ve searched, but haven’t really came up with an answer.
I have a second entire factory exhaust setup a fellow rider gave me. Gutted the cat, and want to swap mine out.
Do I have to remove the plastic side panel, manifold, muffler, etc? Or is there a way to just swap the cat out?
It’s on a 2019, I have a pretty beefy spring puller.
Display MoreMany have installed a high density gel battery in the small bottom section of the passenger storage compartment with a plate on top so you have a flat floor and really don't loose any room. You sound like you may already know but for others who may not, due to the different battery sizes and types remember to use an automatic isolating charging relay such as: https://www.bluesea.com/produc…ng_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A . You could probably do all this for less than the price of just the Optima battery and be safer for it.
Don't know of any other than the extreme systems where this hasn't been sufficient to handle the increased draw on strong bass hits. Running your amp off of the secondary battery and using the isolator also prevents a no start situation since it disconnects from the starter battery if it gets low. I have my boat systems hooked up this way so I don't end up stranded out on the sand bar.
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Thats actually a great idea. I like that a lot. Would allow easy access while making a flat "floor" like you mentioned. Hmmm. Thanks!
I don't pretend to know much about how all the electrical stuff works... I don't have lots of lights or other things that use a lot of juice, and I have never been left stranded with the OEM battery in my Slingshot. (74,000+ miles on my 2016) I'm just wondering why you need MORE electric out put? The guys who have lots of extra lights, etc have set up an extra fuse box powered off the battery and NO problems.
I go to a lot of meets as of late, and I am adding more lights and audio accessories just about every week. I currently have two amps, with a third sitting on my table ready to be installed with 4 more speakers. More battery for my case results in not worrying about having my lights on while parked and engine off, as well as giving the amps the reserve power they may crave on some ...stronger... songs. Especially with this stock, comically small battery.
Also, stock Slingshot electrical was designed by a blind person with very low brain functionality. (Hence all the recalls, melted fuse blocks, etc) The alternator cable going to the battery is actually scary small. I wouldn't run 4 halogen lights off that, let alone an entire vehicles electrical system.
Sorry, I feel like this topic has been beaten to death, but I haven't seen one that really breaks some of them down.
I am completely lost when it comes to windshields. I refuse to wear a helmet while riding, but will also not ride without eye protection for both my passenger and myself.
I have a 2019 base and bought the tinted "ripper" (?) style with it. It LOOKS great, but is about 80% useless. It catches a lot of bugs, and deflects a good amount of wind, but thats it. I have been recently getting pelted with small pebbles and debris while riding on the highway, and it has become a pretty big fear of mine to get hit with something big. I drive mine to work as much as I can, which is about 70 miles (round trip) on the highway, and recently have been driving up to Detroit for Sling meets and cruises every weekend.
I don't (and won't ever) have a roof. Stock exhaust, although i’d like to change that someday - but 99% chance will just be a muffler change, so the exhaust will come out of the same spot.
It looks like the F4 is a really common one to go with, but I can't say i'm a fan of the curve it has. I like how the ripper style has the aggressive lines that match the Slings style. (I know, I know, function over form) which size do people go with? Im about 5'10" and don't want anything to be in my line of sight looking down the road. (Just looked up prices of the +3 and +5 tinted, JESUS...let me take out a small loan!) Actually, looks like Slingmods is more expensive on that F4 windshield than all other sites. Still expensive though.
(P.S. Whats a mint condition tinted Ripper go for these days?)
What alternatives are there? Is that adjustable one from Slingshot Only worth it? Seems like a cool idea, not spend a fortune to have a tall one that looks odd, and be able to just raise this one?
Thanks for any input guys. Pictures are definitely welcomed. Sorry if this stuff has been gone over before, I just seemed to be more picky and have more questions than most posts I saw.
Bummer, was hoping there was a way to get around that. Guess ill be swapping in a high output unit sooner than later.
Im a cheap ass...has anyone made their own Optima battery tray for the 2016+ years? $100 seems insane right on par with overpriced slingshot parts for such a small thing. My uncle has a welder and does all kinds of custom fabrication work. Might have to get ahold of him soon.
Tempted to just throw a spare battery in the passenger side compartment but don't wanna lose the little space I still do have. Drivers side has a sub. Also toying around the idea of one (or two) of those smaller, awkward shaped car audio batteries mounted under the rear deck since they can be mounted in any orientation.
I know there are a few aftermarket options for us as far as high output alternators go, BUT I’m wondering if anyone has figured out why our stock alts only output a measly 13.5v?
In the audio world, that 1 volt is a noticeable difference.
Are these alternators PCM controlled? Or do they have a regulator on the alt? I’d be happy with mine if I could get 14.4-14.5v out of it.
I have a 2019 S.
Okay, for those of us who weren't born with a wrench in our hands, can we have some photos of what to check on this?
Super simple! It’s right by your fuse box under the hood.
This is what mine looked like. It’s supposed to be clear. I changed it and then pumped the clutch for about 4-5 minutes and then it looked pretty dark again. Changed it again and pumped it but I’m gonna change it one more time. You can see some particles in it in the clearest photo, those are gone now after draining it again but that’s what the fluid should look like color-wise.
That. Is. Amazing.
Making me want to go out in the garage and rip my plastics off. I don't think I could do it just yet, but if some of it were to ever get damaged or something, i'd gladly rock a naked look like that. It looks so damn cool!
Also, how many times are you guys pumping the clutch? I’d like to swap out as much fluid as possible, so I imagine changing it 3-4 times. Engine off okay? Or should I have it running?
Yeah, I've gotta get a baster too. No idea where my garage baster went lol.
I saw another thread where people were arguing that Polaris used the wrong fluid, that the fluid will break down the rubber. They said use Dot 5.1 or something along those lines and then had no more issues, BUT D4 and D5.1 aren't interchangeable and can gum up and whatnot.
Anyone running something else?
Im gonna change it every oil change like Funinthesun mentioned, its not hard at all, but i'd like to prevent deterioration somehow. Thats no good..
I popped the caps open to check fluids yesterday for the first time before a day-long trip in the Woodward Dream Cruise (2.0) meet up. My clutch fluid is NASTY.
I have under 6k miles on my 2019, and the clutch fluid is dark brown. Looks like used motor oil. Can't be good for the clutch (although, i'm not manual-trans savvy). I believe the owners manual says to change it every 30k miles, but i’d definitely recommend looking at it before that. 90% of my miles are highway too, as I drive about 70 miles a day for work, 68 of them being highway, so i'm not hard on the clutch.
Sometimes shifting into third gear feels a lot harder than it should, i'm wondering if this is possibly why. I haven't changed the fluid yet, gonna do it today. I'll post back results. The reservoir also has crud in it, like a thin black layer of something at the bottom inside.
I don’t remember if I used a blinker relay or a regular relay 🤔
Those are aftermarket Jeep Wrangler tail lights...
Do you have a build thread or anything? I wanna see more pictures of that thing! It looks interestingly cool with the rear plastics gone.
When I tried the resistor, I just tried it on the trigger side. It wouldn't even trigger. Wonder if it was possibly a bad resistor, but I didn't try another one.
I figured out the solution. I added the front OEM blinker to the relay output as well.
Just triggering the relay and OEM front blinker was too much for the stock flasher to handle. ONLY triggering the relay and rear blinker, it worked just fine in any mode. (Key off, hazards on, key on blinkers on, engine on blinkers/hazards, etc)
So for anyone in the future who might look into this:
Regular 5 pin 30/40a Relay:
Pin 85: Ground
Pin 86: OEM blinker feed
Pin 87: Battery or fusebox (12v)
Pin 30: Output to LEDs/switchbacks/Auxiliary blinkers/etc
Wondering if snipping the blinker wire feeding the stock front blinker would help. Then tap the stock blinker into the relay as well.
They are just generic stuff from Amazon. (Stuff i've used many other times in everything but a Slingshot with no issues)
I have them hooked up the way a standard relay hooks up.
Power for the relay comes from my aux fusebox, grounded to frame, output to halo blinker input, relay trigger is using the Slingshot blinker wire tapped at the blinker. I don't have pictures, and I wouldn't really be able to get anything that would help. My wiring is mostly in looms, and out of sight.
I read that some people use a 100 ohm resistor, which I bought just to be safe and even tried adding that between the Sling blinker wire and relay trigger. It wouldn't even trigger the relay with that.
