Posts by SoCal

Quote from BKL

I'd think you could use one of the SlingMods switches to wire the Halos on one side of the switch and the headlights on the other side of the switch. They also have wiring harnesses for the headlight switches. Polaris Slingshot Dash Switches & Relays
Another option is to wire in new headlight connectors for the Fog Light circuit and run the Outer Auxiliary headlights on that circuit. You'd need to add a fuse and switch, but that gives you a set of backup headlights independent of the main headlights. The Fog Light circuit is rated at 10A, so you can safely run 2 x 55W bulbs or even better, LEDs w/o problem.

Thank you for the quick reply and detail much appreciated! I was actually hopeful that I could just find the Hot lead wire off of the switch that goes to the lights and put my switch on the dash in line. Even going so far as to install a fuse if necessary. Is that too simplistic? Again I am no electrical genius!

I believe you are correct and point well taken! No hard feelings on this side and I hope not on your side of the border

Again thank you for the information on the lights.

Any thoughts on how to wire the headlights into a switch on my dash? I installed three switches, two are still available that are blind to the fuse box waiting for whatever. Any thoughts on how I could use one of those switches to make the headlights manual like I have the under lighting and halos? In other words where might there be easy access to the power wire to the lights off of the ignition switch that I could interrupt and wire to one of my switches on the dash. I am just thinking it would be cool during the daytime to just run the halos and not the headlights. Have both halos and headlights individual and manual at their own switch.

Quote from 2W2X1

Good'ol slingmods. The directions are in their installation .pdf!

polaris-slingshot-canada-conversion-install.pdf

For the record about their warning... I am running all 6 conventional lightbulbs on full time and have had no issues for 1.5 years. But then again I don't have anything else wired in the SS on those circuits. No other LEDs or bling.

Your not kidding...that was my halo money!!!

You can have your heater and halo too! I am running six of these!

10$ each!

Ouch! That’s a lot of mod $! You sure you realllly need hot water??

Kiddin’ - that kind of wrenching ain’t no fun!
Hope it went well!

Quote from SSREAPER

You know what pisses me off....working a 14 hour day and coming home to find my house flooded from the freaking water heater bursting and having to spend 500.00 and spend half the night fixing it! To goto bed at 1 am and have to be up at 5 to work tomorrow another 14 hour shift!!!

Goodnight everybody!!

SSREAPER

Jealous!

Quote from FunCycle

Installing the JR-I shocks tomorrow. I do not see where anyone has posted the clicker settings they have been using. I am looking for a starting point on the double adjustable or some info. Thanks

It’s relentless you can’t avoid it !

Responding to ALLIN5450 all tongue-in-cheek my friend. Relax

When doing my light install this weekend it was front and center and had to deal with it a few times that’s why it caught my eye.

I have some smoke overlay coming for the turn signals this week. I may just trace that area, and cut out a piece of plastic the best I can and possibly do some small fill-in after I place the plastic over the space. I appreciate and get that there may be a future date when I would need to get that pulled out and not want to seal it off. But Should I do the carbon fiber overlay I would want that area to be seamless and flat without a trace that anything is underneath it. No indent. Just thinking out loud and being super picky - The front end on a Slingshot is a pretty cool thing to look at. Having a guber bolt sticking out like that kind of bugs me. But then again it’s a great problem to have!

Quote from MWSlingshot

Plz keep those matches handy, I may be needing them. Lol

Quote from SSREAPER

I agree...Im not sure about filling it in though...just in case you ever need to remove it! Could you fill it with say...silicone? Something you could remove if ever needed maybe?
SSREAPER

Actually I’m thinking of perhaps filling that area making it smooth and then putting carbon fiber wrap over the top. I totally get where you’re coming from. I just don’t understand why an arbitrary bolt would be sticking out of the facia like that. I just believe it needs to be cleaned up

Quote from SSREAPER

How about a Piece of carbon fiber decal or something....is that bolt one you would have to remove alot?

I actually like Maxine Waters! I want that woman to keep talking and talking and talking being the face of the Democratic Party! She lives about 60 miles away from me in her palatial home and thank goodness I am not in her district. She helps me, on the other side of the fence, more and more each day! You go girl!

Quote from pricejh61

She can have my round. Did I say that?

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Quote from 2W2X1

Good'ol slingmods. The directions are in their installation .pdf!

polaris-slingshot-canada-conversion-install.pdf

For the record about their warning... I am running all 6 conventional lightbulbs on full time and have had no issues for 1.5 years. But then again I don't have anything else wired in the SS on those circuits. No other LEDs or bling.

thank you and I agree. I have no issues with slingmods, actually like them a lot however they planted a seed of ambiguity in my head about the bulbs and I errored on the safe side. Your post and your directions make perfect sense though and again thank you.I actually did install a blue sea fuse box and three additional switches for extra goodies. I did this while I had the dash apart putting in my radio and the back up camera. All of my halos and under lighting are on a separate circuit other than the headlights

Thank you for the hand holding on this! This makes perfect sense but as I mentioned I’m new electrical guru and really appreciate the expertise and input on this one thank you so much!

Quote from 2W2X1

Super easy to accomplish. On the light housing side of the pig tail that powers the lights... Remove the retention clip across the wires. From inside the plug, a very small flat screwdriver is needed to depress the retention teeth holding each wire in place. remove the blue and yellow wires and reverse them. Replace the retention clip across the wires and you are done. There used to be a video or photos showing this. Can't seem to find it.

In short, no I did not. I am not a big electrical guy when it comes to understanding what will overload the circuit or not. The slingmods site mentioned the possibility of overloading the circuit and I just ran them stock. Any insight you may have on this would be greatly appreciated and it would be nice to run them with the brights on as they are much brighter than the LED. But as I mentioned prior the blue tint of the LED in the low beam may grow on me. I really don’t do much night driving and when I have I really haven’t been that disappointed in the stock set up.

Thanks for the question and again if you have any insight on this please share. When it comes to electrical I need diagrams handholding pictures and the whole deal!

Quote from 2W2X1

Did you swap the wires so these run the larger bulb full time? Flip the yellow and blue wires in the harness for the Canadian lights. They will be bright full time vice running the T10 bulb solo without engaging the high beams or the actual H3 bulb.

Who is going to be the first to manufacture a snap on cover for this bolt that would be flush with the facia? I know I would be the first to buy it!

And what about Maxine Waters?

Quote from AllIn5450

When my new Passport comes in, I am going down to the Mexican border, show them that I am really Donald Trump And inform them that I am issuing an executive order closing the border totally until the dumbocrats pass legislation securing our border, allowing only LEGAL immigration and building the wall manned by autoguns with motion and heat sensors.
Then I am going to walk in to Pelosi's office and punch her right in the face.
Then issue an executive order deporting Kathy Griffin, for ever.

When I bought my sling someone said to me why didn’t you just buy a convertible? I just smiled and that was it, because if you Gotta ask you don’t know ....

Well said .....

Quote from FunCycle

What did you even buy the SS for then. I park mine in the garage at night when it is not running up and down the road (64,000+)every day. You know back in the old car hobby there was something that I could never understand. I am just going to use a number here OK. The person goes out and spend $25,000 on an old car and will not drive it because they are scared that they will loss money on it or insert some other reason. Then they go out and buy $100,000 on a car/truck and drive it every day. I just could never understand any of this. If it were me I would be driving the cheaper of the two. Yea, I still have my 35 Ford, all Chev under the body and yes I did put over 100,000 mile on it driving it from Indy to Daytona and many places in between. If I could quit spending money on the Sling and going on trips I could still do a few things I would like to do with it or to it.

Geeeeezzzzz! Now I’m reading about guys who are getting new transmissions! This is getting a tad absurd! Perhaps we all just need to buy two of them from the get go and parts chase the one we like ....

Quote from JoeF.

Mines been at dealer 1,5 months getting transmission replaced under warranty. Took a while with mechanics just trying to get it apart to replace 4th gear synchronizer. After 2 weeks of trying everything Polaris told them, they finally went with new transmission....
At least it’s not costing me anything but downtime, but I guess I’m still lucky to be getting the new transmission, not sure if tech took this long to try and figure it out and then putting it back together would have worked anyways.....