I have posted this incident to my Quebec Slingshot group, reminding them to stay safe.
Me and the 140 members of our group want to offer our sympathies to Pam, we are very saddened about this event, and we wish you all the best for the future.
I have posted this incident to my Quebec Slingshot group, reminding them to stay safe.
Me and the 140 members of our group want to offer our sympathies to Pam, we are very saddened about this event, and we wish you all the best for the future.
the problem with wet performance is this:
Most guys want to get a larger rear tire for added grip, but this goes the other way in the wet. You can't have best of both. So of course if you run a 315 in the rear, I don't care what brand or thread, its gonna suck.
Double with 300hp and a turbo.
You want good wet traction, go slim. Dry traction, large. Stock size is good compromise, can't have both.
i am reading a book that I think is a must read to anyone who has boosted or is looking to boost their engines:
This book is easy to read, even for greens newbs like me.
Its really a bible as far as basica of turbo charging an engine, lots of details of the effects of different setups, and also, a lot of examples and tests are done on the Ecotec engine. Its really instersting the conclusions of these tests, and contradictory to the limits the vendors of such turbo kits said where "safe" for the LE9...
Again, invest some time and read this book.
Here are some examples of passages I found very enlighting:
Here they talk about the tested limits of the 2.4L cast rods... GM attests that 283 is the very top limit of the rods, read it yourselves:
They go into the details and risks of boosting a N/A engine:
It talks in detail of what are the differences GM did to the turbo engines vs na engines, little details they make the engines reliable:
How does a stock engine deal with added boost:
How GM developed the turbo ecotec:
Details like where to get boost pressure from: (this has been a discussion from many guys here, everyone has their theory of what is good or not, well, here you have it...)
And lots more. Again, highly recommended read.
Here's a fairly simple method to hold down the fenders. Of course, you do have to replace the tie any time your open the hood.
I was refering to the lift the fenders provide to the frame, not just the hood lifting off.
That bumber has too much flex to provide any kind of usefull downforce unless you are at 200mph imo.
I would get a way to stop the front fenders from lifting the SS before creating df from that spoiler...
Running Advan AD08 for road and Toyo R888 for track.
Display MoreI dont think it will be an issue to keep those pages on here. However I don't want to make Polaris upset. What do the other members think I should do. Keep the pages or delete them?
Well if they complain take it down. I get it, didn't of the CR aspect of it, just though about helping out.
You know what, take it down, I will do a text only version with pics on my SS instead, so no CR issues.
Delete my other post that I wanted to sticky, I will redo this weekend.
Here is all you need to adjust or remove your belt:
Everything you wanted to know about belt and final drive:
Yeah, if you want to adjust the actual tension, then my trick doesn't work. It only works to take the belt of completely and put it back on after.
Not on mine, it comes off with a bit of work.
or internally modified gears for the stock rack, but I am looking forward to someone making a solid aftermarket rack. OEM sucks.
raise the rear of the SS, put blocks to stop the SS from moving on the front wheels.
unbolt the lower shock bolt, make sure you support the wheel so that it doesn't slam when you remove the bolt, it should lower the arm enough to get the slack you need to put the belt on.
That's how I clean the belt and sprockets.
@gpcustoms, can you tell me what lines you got, filter adapter and rad?
Anyone of our vendors have taken a look a the steering system of the SS? I have play in both my front wheels, coming from the fact that for some odd reason, Polaris decided to use gokart parts to assemble the steering on our machines...
The tie rod end is a pierced ball inside a cup, with a bolt securing it to the hub in a sanswitch. Only thing, the hole in the ball of the tie rod is bigger by maybe 0.001 inch than the bolt holding it to the hub, and same thing with the hole in the hub, its bigger than the bolt... So the rod ends move on the the bolt instead of turning the wheels...
Anyone come up with a solution to this, like a ball joint we can swap in there that doesn't make you feel like you drive a rented gokart?
Anyone has a suggestion for installing a oil cooler for the engine? I have the DDM Works adapter to get out of the ecotec, has AN10 threads, looking to install a remote oil filter and oil cooler.
As of now, I have found the Derale 35709, which looks good and uses KN Oil filter HP3001 and might be tempted to hook up a flex-a-lite 45200 7x15x1 1/2 AN10 oil cooler to it. Should help keep oil temps in check.
Got mine from Kip too. Very usefull stuff.
Yes you can. These guys are the ones helping build my LE9, they know their shit. That machine is a beast.
They are based around 25 mins from where I live, they are stationned near a track in Napierville, Quebec, Canada.
Top notch guys and super helpfull.
We need a quicker rack... Wish Alpha or someone would work on that rack to make it better.
Drop the rear tire pressure. Its too high if you follow the specs from polaris. i run my rear 23-24 psi on the track.