I did the same kind of thing, but having the base model, I stripped the monitor from it plastic casing, and cut out a portion of the center glove box, and sandwiched the lcd between the front face and plastic casing:
I then installed a Pyke rear camera into the rear plastic of the SS where the SL has its camera:
It all looks stock, and I wired it so I can turn the screen on or off with a dash switch.
Your lucky, snd you are right about the Tesla technology. All cars makers are going to get there in time I am sure. For the moment, I think chevy has got a solid car with the Volt, considering that the charging network is not up to par in most cities.
Tesla looks nice, a bit expensive, but its the price of leading technology.
My only gripe with full electric cars is the range and recharge time make them impracticle in some situations. Having to charge 8H for 200-250 miles can be a problem if you need to cover more than that on occasion, which is my case.
For my daily usage, I will be almost using 100% only electric, and for the times you need to ride farther away and come back in less than 3 days, the Volt has got me covered.
Just took delivery of a 2016 Volt with Bose sound system this morning. Very impressed with this car vs my 2012 Prius, which I hated after 2 months of owning.
Already got a turbo kit ordered for it, Alpha is shipping it in 2 weeks... Oh wait ! 
Don't forget the fashionable metal banding to keep it from moving.
I wouldn't do that. That metal band is going to eat into the filter and your going to end up with open sections on that cone in no time from engine vibration.
SCALE suspension, custom made for me 
Swift Springs, rates of 500 for fronts and 400 for rear, height adjustable and compression adjustable:
It won't fit the slingshot. The plenum would be hitting the brake master cylinder. If it had fit, it would have been on mine from the beginning
Well then, master cylinder must go. Who needs brakes anyways, they are for wussies
Damn, that is depressing...
Wonder if we could fit a trex rack in there...
@rabtech no its not Bob's Mefiburn. I had just talked to Bob this week about realeasing a public version of his tuning software and he told me he had no intention of doing that for the moment.
If this product was around 500$ OR at least not limited to one ECU, it would be insteresting, but 1k for 1 SS to tune, considering you still need to take it to a tuner and rent a dyno so all in all what that 1k gives you really is not having to swap the ECU.
Unfortunatly for whoever made this software, you get a much better ECU for 2k so 1k just to save the stock ECU is stupid.
On the other "side" they argue that its still cheaper than sending the ECU to Bob for reflash, but this is a stupid argument, as Bob doesn't charge for a reflash, and 500$ gets you a fully fonctional tune, which the purchase of this software and cable doesn't. Also, not many guys will be tweeking the tune every week for even in that scenario it makes no fiancial sense.
Just cheap money grabing in my opinion.
Again, too bad, really. All this does in reality is validate that Bob's 500$ tune is a good price for 99% of Slingshot owners.
Yeah ok, then it makes no sense.
Too bad, if they would have sold this as a open tuner tool, a tuner could amortize it on multiple tunes, but for 1k per slingshot its ridiculus... Might as well just put the ECU in the trash and go with a full open ecu instead.
Again vendor greed scraps an interesting product for us. Starting to see a patern here...
http://www.mefipro.com/index-mpro2.html
Anyone has looked into this yet??
Very interested to know if the license is limited to working on one SS or not...
Finaly a way to fine tune our turbo kits, that is good, but at 1K, I hope to be able to amortize the expense with 2 friends who are building turbo SS in my region.
Short shifter is nice, I would not go back to oem shifter.
As read on Takata article:
"Harness belt systems must not be installed in vehicles equipped with seats which do not have adjustable head restraints, or seats with backrests that have integrated head restraints where there are no openings for the shoulder belts. The seatbelts will not function properly in these types of seats as shoulder belts will tend to slip off the shoulders. "
This is coming from experts in seat belts.
4 point harness on stock seats is a big no-no unless you want to die from a spinal compression in a frontal crash.
Don't do it.
You need racing seats with the holes for the harness to position the straps like they should be over the top of the shoulders and going down, and staying that way in the event of a frontal crash.
Lost a friend in a Subaru Impreza who installed a 4 point on stock seats, hit a guard rail at 60 in the rain, full front impact, he died instantly with his spine broken in multiple places, his passenger got out with minor bruises and a cut on the right leg, he had OEM belt on, no 4 point. it was determined that the 4 point compressed the spine when his body was projected forward and held by the shoulder straps, the straps where actually pulling down when his weight was going forward, and that cause his spike to fracture in multiple places. His died from this trauma, it's almost a good thing, if he would have survived doctors said he would have been paralyzed from the neck down.
Race harness are made to be used with specific seat designs to be safe. Don't go thinking you can invent shit that will end up killing you because it looks cool but it's not safe when you need it to be.
Your call.
Non, I am doing this for the greater good of human kind... Oh ah pushing 15 psi of boost into it has a bit to do about this too lol
I had the exact same issue with mine, completly stock, had 800 miles on it when it happened:
http://www.slingshotforums.com…/weird-engine-noise.5966/
I had posted about his on the dark side, never really got a good answer. Still never really understood what caused this, and when I took my engine apart recentyl, I had found this is one of the cam oil passage:
I had assumed this was the reason of the noise, maybe it had blocked the oil passage.
My noise went away on its own, never did it again, real weird, but maybe I had a loose hose somewhere that I reconnected when trying to find the issue...
Good find. Now I know what my issue was.
@lokati, stock kendas are cheap, crap, hard tires, so they suck in all situations imo.
I am not saying that a wide tire can't have decent traction in rain, but a wide tire will have less traction on slippery surface than a slimer tire, if comparing the same tire. Of course you can get better grip from one tire to the next just by using a different compound and tread pattern.
But in general, in the wet, wider tire has more change for hydroplaning than a slimer tire because the same weight is being pushed on a larger surface, so less pressure per inch on the wider tire. Now this can be altered a bit by thread design etc, but normally, a great dry tire will not be very good in wet conditions and vice versa.
Is that an LE9 or LE5?
Felt I needed to add this to finish this thread! I just received a bran new oil pan from Henry at Alpha. I had told him about my problem and he steped up to the plate and made it right. I still have to caught up the time to get the pan installed (I'm not set up to do my own work at home) but at least I'm getting the support of the Turbo manufacturer I selected and THAT makes all the difference! Thx Henry.
Sling, it's Marc from the Slingshot Quebec group. Don't pay the dealer for nothing, I will go and do it at your place, it's super easy to do if you have the replacement pan.
Contact me on our Facebook page.
