Posts by iNewton

Any idea what would be part number for longer studs?

I make sure to stay in front of the pack so I don't need to see it

Yeah, well of course wheelspin will sent your SS either left or right, rarely just spin and stay centered. Which direction it will go might just be a factor of road surface and weight distribution.

If your the only person in the SS, it weights more on the left side, so resr tire might have a bit more grip on the left side than the right thus sending the rear toward the right.

Check your tire wear, if its pretty even everywhere then I wouldn't worry about it, its like a fixed rear diff on a rear wheel drive, when it spins, it has to go somewhere...

@Bill from Hahn RaceCraft what belt tension do you aim for when you set your tension on lowered vehicules?

One major thing to consider when talking about ride height is the rear belt tension.

While testing my setup, I found that lowering my SS more than 1/2 inch would start making my belt skip on hard acceleration. I run a turbo so mileage may vary, but basilcally its something to look out for. The more angle the swing arm is from parallel to the SS the less the tension is on the belt. You can't really increase the tension to compensate because now when the suspension decompresses, it will increase the stress on the belt over what its suposed to be, potentially breaking the strap, or causing bearing issues down the line.

I think 250/350 is a good setup for street use. Anyone on stock shocks should get these, the spring rate doesn't represent the difference in ride quality.

The SS feels so much smoother with aftermarket shocks, and at this price, no one will regret this mod, no matter what type of rider you are.

Quote from Speedr117

@iNewton, where did you see the spring rate? And what is it? Thanks!

Its not mentionned here (I think, didn't read the entire load of replies after Hans post) but this setup has been discussed a lot before on other forums, and If my memory serves me well, fronts are 250 and rear 320 or 350, not sure.

Its a good compromise for a street application on good performance street tires and light track use, but on full racing tires I found that it was still too soft for my taste.

Mind you I am not on this setup so maybe direct comparison is not possible, but I went thru a lot of different springs and shocks with SCALE for the setup I have now, and I found that 250 / 200 was a good setup for aggressive street and good tires.

Once you get the SS on a track with race tires its a different ball game, but 500/400 is very stiff on stock wheels and if you run street tires, the only suspension will come from the sidewalls of the tires, the coils hardly move even getting in or out of the slingshot.

A friend has the Alpha / JRI kit, and he couldn't believe how stiff my setup was compared to his.

Keep in mind also that I am running 19x9.5 inch rims up front and 20x12 inch rear, with Toyo R888 all around, my wheels are heavier than stock rims and tires, that will affect the unsprung weight on the suspension and the final spring rate.

Nice write up.

Still find that spring rate is a bit soft for track though, ball or not, on race tires I really started to feel the SS planted at 500 on the fronts and 400 on the rear, but for street use on street tires it would probably suck.

Great price too, def a good deal on a great setup that will kick the oem coils in the trash.

I agree about the stock coils being total absolute trash, even for mild street use.

At that price, no one should keep the oem shocks.

Our SS is nothing compared to a possessed Nissan:

This is what happens when you connect your crankshaft to your steering column...

Quote from Bugzilla

I agree with that. Better then what was on there before! I like the idea of an aftermarket intake best though.

Yeah, no options for now, FabFactory is making a billet one, but it costs 1,600$us... Ouch...

Well, might get a full fledged intake manifold, but at least now my hose won't be doing a 180 to get to the BOV.

The bango is sealed to the fitting, that will never leak. The fitting has an inch and a half of thread going into the plastic that I taped with with a taper so I don't think it will move or leak.
Yeah its ugly but as you mentioned, you wont see it once all the tubes and wires are installed, and its still more efficient than having a hose go a full 180.

Quote from Bugzilla

I made it over from the darkside! Thought you would like to know.

Anyways, why use the banjo and brass fitting? Seems easier to me to just tap the inside of it to a 1/4" or 3/8" NPT and run a 90° fitting. Less connections, less of a chance for leaks. That would also leave you the option of running a "T" out of it if you wanted to connect more then one thing to it. Just my opinion though...

The main reason is that the hole left by taking off the plastic tube is too big for the banjo bolt to fit in. The brass fitting fit there perfect and tight. i tested it with my compressor and holds more than 50psi without any leaks.

The other issue which is not apparent on this picture is that there would be a clearance issue with the intake pipe and throttle body installed if the banjo bolt was installed direct to the intake. The banjo would get pushed by the intake bracket.

Quote from RuneRider

Looks nice. Good Luck with It. This cheap gas issue has thrown a wrench into the electric car development process. How much does it cost to fully charge a car to gob200 miles? Also until the electric generation process gets clean, we are just swapping who's doing the pollutin, cars or power companies. But we have to start somewhere. I've always been a fan of the hydrogen cars that use a system based on water and sunlight in re-fuel for little or no money. They take water and a process using electric from sunlight to split the oxygen and hydrogen from the water, keeping the hydrogen and releasing the oxygen. Seems like a good solution...

Here is Quebec, Canada, our electricity is generated by hydro electric dams. Its a pretty clean way to produce it.

Of course if you live in a place where is produced by coal, its hard to validate the environement side of it.

This is the kind of stuff that in you head you think "how hard can it be".

Then after 1h of sweat blood and tears, you realise how that was a bad idea.

I did mine with a punch and hammer, took me I don't know how many hours, please wear a dust mask. What really sucks is even when you get to the point where you cut out a good portion of the honeycomb from the wall, because of the bend its hard to get out.

Be prepared for a lot of swearing, there is no easy way to do this.

Had a bit of time to waste this PM, and the way I had my AEM boost gauge tube and blow off valve tubing setup annoyed me, so I took some spare parts I had laying around and got to work.

I hated to fact that the bottom tube I was using for the BOV was facing the wrong way and had to go into a 180deg bend, so I chopped off the plastic tube coming out of the manifold, and screwed in a brass fitting that let me use the same banjo bolt I have on the BOV to come out of the intake, I like it:

I connected the vaccum tube for the AEM gauge to a connector used for the EVAP sensor, so that it become a quick connect to the manifold, in place of the EVAP, I now have my more usefull boost and vaccum gauge connected:

I use that tube to go to my blow off valve.

The EVAP sensor is connected to the ecu to prevent check engine codes I assume, but its not actually connected to the fuel system.

Quote from Canoehead

@iNewton
Are you able to take that to the track with no sternum strap?

Yes. But I have race seats, so the straps don't move.

The assault visor is just not long enough. Same with the central aluminum gauge cluster, the visor is like 2 inches long, it needs to be more than than.

Quote from harleyujoe

So most agree that putting slots in plastic and mounting to bolts that hold roll bar is best.
And height of say average person 5'5" to 6 ' this mounting height would be best?

Thanks guys..
I may tomorrow put slots in plastic and try the height of those locations..
It was a easy attachment today but do not like the way it looks.

Btw, best way to slot the plastic is to put tape around where you want to cut, then using a sharp xacto, just start scoring to shape you want to cut out. Continue scoring the shape until you can cut the lenght of a whole line. Once you get the blade thru, it will because easy to pressure the rest of the shape out. The plastic is soft, so work slow and its pretty easy to do a good clean job:

No, not in direct sunlight. i need to make a sun shade for it this summer.