Posts by djvj

    I purchased this Brembo kit off ebay back around this past Christmas. I just got around to installing it today. Of course the rotors included are stock-sized rotors, which leaves half the brake pad not even touching the rotor! I msg'd the seller but doubt I'll hear back now.


    Read the Brembo kit comes with 339mm rotors, but can't find anyone that sells this size for a slingshot. Found these ones for a Caddy. Saw another brand that includes 345mm rotors, which to my measurements would fit with 1mm clearance, but might be cutting it too close there.


    Anyone know where I can get a pair for the front or others that might fit?

    This is now fixed! I detached the cable and removed the plate and rubber boot. So you can't spray inside w/o doing this as the rubber boot prevents anything from getting in.


    Took a couple hours of spraying and tightening/loosening with the nut, and eventually by hand to work the rust out as the bolt doesn't come out. Maybe it does on the side with the caliper, but I didn't feel like removing the wheel and fiddling with that. Brake back to working perfect and didn't have to spend anything!


    Thanks everyone for your help.

    That's good advice, and I have done this as I've worked on the SS over the years. The loose nut was from me loosening it to test. Only then I noticed the mechanics at fault here which i didn't pick up before..

    By George, I think you got this!


    Hit it with PB and let it soak. Hit it again with PB and give it good work out.


    Maybe go lighter on that pressure washer in the future. ;)

    Hit it once with PB and will do again tomorrow. The only thing that hits that area is the hose. I'd never take a pressure washer to a vehicle! lol

    The spring had a tendency to ride over the shoulder at the rear and then oval.


    Your unit appears to have an extended ear off the cable plate that the 2015/16 did not.

    Ah ok makes sense now. 2017 had way less recalls than the earlier ones did.

    The green arrow below is the coiled spring attached over the lever, which is correct. The orange bars are areas where a lot of us placed zip ties around the coil to prevent rattle and keep the spring from walking to an outboard cocked position.


    Got to ask...

    Have you done or had any work done on the rear caliper other than have the dealer look at it?

    Interesting, never heard of the zip tie or walking thing. You can hear this rattle even with the springs tension and road noise/engine/exhaust/music lol? Is the walking doing something bad, because I can move it left/right but doesn't appear that it would affect anything?


    No work has been done to the rear calipers at all that I'm aware of. I do all the work and only go to the dealer for recalls and this one thing I've been scratching my head on.

    I think I found the problem and only found the problem after having the wife pull up and down on the handle a few times while the nut was loose.


    The spring is doing it's job, but the shaft isn't rotating. I only noticed it because after I took the nut off completely, the entire assembly still moves, I thought it stopped once the nut was loose. After letting it sit for so long, it got worse, and I can feel the extra tension of that plate not rotating freely. I think it needs to be greased just not sure how to take it apart yet due to the springs tension. See the pics below. What's circled in orange, under the rubber boot, is where I think it needs greasing.

    I let the dealer look at it last year. They couldn't figure it out and said they never seen it before. That's when they gave me the price to swap out entire rear.


    But think about it this way, If I loosen the nut, the spring doesn't release the brake. It's not the handles job to release the brake, it only keeps it locked. Once I remove tension, by loosening the nut on the rear, I still have to manually take a hammer to the brake to get it to release. Which tells me the spring isn't working. Any adjustments I make on the handle won't help that.

    Thanks for the info Bigdog. That price is waaay cheaper than the dealer gave me. Seems I could get a used one for quite a bit cheaper still and should be good enough. I think I'd rather go that route.


    One thing that worries me is I don't think I have access to the underside of the e-brake handle with my rear welter exhaust piping under there to do that adjustment. I think I recall it blocks access from reaching it. I'd have to lift it and check if it comes down to it.

    Thanks for the info, but yea I don't have a cover on mine. I've tried tightening that nut with the lever up and down, and always the same thing. Once I push the lever down to release the brake, it pops back up on me.

    So it's a 2017.


    By disconnecting the brake mechanism, you mean that nut in the picture? When I loosen that nut, the cable moves freely. I don't feel any tension in the lever/cable then. When I tighten it, causes the lever to push up a few clicks and the light to pop on.

    Had this issue for over a year and I've been to the dealer who looked at it and said I needed to replace the entire hardware in the rear wheel, which was way overkill because it includes the brakes and all. They wanted something like $800 for it! They even agreed it's way overpriced but nothing they could do on price...


    I've just not been using the parking brake at all. If I try and push the brake handle down from the driver's seat, it pops back up on me because it won't release. I've tried WD-40 on the brake's spring in the rear wheel and didn't help, figuring it was getting stuck. I'm pretty sure all I need is that spring as it's not enough spring in it to release the mechanism, but not entirely sure. I've played with it countless times and only way I can get it to release is to hit the release with something so it disengages.


    If I loosen the nut back there, it just loses tension and doesn't help. I have no experience with parking brakes but it's not all that complicated. Just would like to have a brake and not worry about parking on a hill and the gear becoming disengaged from someone when I'm not there.


    Unsure what I could except maybe posting if anyone has a junked sling that would sell me that spring.


    See pic for what I mean. It's not mine, just an image I found.

    The fitting in your picture is an Autometer #2278. It has the metric thread on one side that screws into the Ecotec block and a 1/8" npt fitting on the other side that will accept that 1/8" NPT to -4AN fitting on the setup you currently have. You can buy those Autometer parts at a lot of different places, Amazon, Summit, Jegs, etc. Here is a link to one on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Auto-Me…Temperature/dp/B000CIJ39O

    And folks, we have a winner!! That's exactly it. Crazy how they don't even mention thread sizes or any other term I could search with to find that part. Thanks Dave!!


    Thanks everyone else for your help, you're all awesome!

    I wonder if it might be a pipe thread. See if the broken-off piece might fit a plumbing coupling. We have several Ace Hardware stores within around 10 miles and 2 of them have a significantly larger assortment of fittings, so the larger a store is, the better the chance of finding a match. Good Luck!

    Good idea, I could try that. I figured it was the AN style. It's whatever the engine block has threaded on already. I thought it was a standard size, jusy don't know it.