Posts by Carbon_One

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    Carbon_One: Question: Unless I am missing something, it appears you used some sort of clamp to mount the luggage rack to the 3/8" bolt. Can you elaborate on what you used? (i.e size of that clamp and how long are your 3/8" bolts?) Thanks for your time as I am trying to copy you. I have the house tuning clamps and I have ordered the Reese roof top carrier. I just need to know where to go from there to mount rack to the house tuning clamps.

    I used a 1/8 " thick x 3/4" wide piece of stainless steel bent into a U shape to slip over the round tubing of the carrier. It has to be long enough to have a 3/8" hole drilled for the bolt to go across to the House Tuning P clamp. Due to the Twist top being wider at the rear than the front I add a 1 1/2" spacer in the front of the car top carrier. Look closely at my 1st post to get a better idea here.

    At the time I did my carrier I wasn't aware a 1.65 clamp was available. Either that or I totally overlooked them being in 1.65 sized.

    Personally I prefer the 1.625 clamps as they came with rubber inserts of different thicknesses. With the proper rubber insert there's no marking on the roof top frame. Currently I have the carrier off but left the clamps in place with just turning the clamps inwards. I'll post a pic later if interested.

    Unfortunately her plan is like they said about Obomacare. Vote it in then read the details. :thumbdown:Nope I'm not buying her package.

    Sad to see this but considering what we know from speculation by the initial report on FB and member comments here I'd lean more on the auto trans locking up in a lower gear than a brake pin failure. Losing the brake pin would result in loss of braking IMHO not locking up unless the entire caliper somehow lodged up in the wheel.
    If I was to get a auto trans conversion I'd prefer a manual shift type. Being an exposed to the elements vehicle electrics can be problematic .

    More than one way to achieve the final result. I question the size of the clamp you linked to, the material of which it is made of, and what the clamp was originally designed for.

    People now have choices.

    Good job!

    The clamps are made of aluminum and designed for mounting off road lights on roll bars or as in this case the luggage carrier. Can't say the clamps are overkill size wise but they'll certainly handle any load put in or on the carrier.

    Mounting a Reese Explore roof top carrier on a Twist or Bullet Speed canvas top roof is very easy. No need to go fabricating parts either. Nor spending a bunch of money either.

    Here's what to get:
    Reese Explore Carrier. Less than $90 at Walmart -- 24087297
    Clamps. A set of 4 clamps from House Tuning. Amazon or e-Bay costs less than $25. Get the clamps that will fit 1.625 pipe. House Tuning 1.625 inch Roll Bar Clamp Tube Clamp BracketRoof Bar Clamp for A... | eBay
    Four 3/8" Bolts from your local hardware store. On my 1st gen Twist top I had to add a 1 1/2" spacer to the front clamps but on my brothers new Twist top no spacers were needed.
    So to summarize a carrier, 4 clamps and 4 bolts and you're ready to pack up for some traveling.
    Note: I can't take credit for this system thou cause I talked to someone at the Slingshots in the Smokies who had done this.

    The ?main? TDS Admin posted they've taken new steps to better secure the site. I guess we'll see, but I'm getting a little leery of how often they seem to get hacked.

    I quit going there a long time ago for this very reason. Too afraid just looking at a topic I'd get zapped with a viruses. Not worth the risk. Besides this site beats them hands down.

    Hang in there Mr. Bill. It will get better. Time is on your side in this. Had a friend go thru the whole thing you're experiencing so far. Today he's up and about doing pretty much everything he used to do.
    Prayer for ya all just the same.

    Is there a designated trailer parking area away from the hotels for those of us hauling our slingshots to Maggie Valley? Seems I recall past parking on the fairgrounds? I went to SSitS in "15" but rode my sling there then. Coming back for this event this year but trailering the sling this time around.

    Today I took my seat frames to the dealership to have them check on those welds in question. I tried using the mirror method without results. So by taking them out I got a good look. Still cold here so really no down time either. Anyhow my seats passed the inspection. Figured it would since I saw nothing wrong but by having the shops inspections and paperwork done to satisfy Polaris I'm covered.
    I'm attaching pics of the welds. I don't know just which areas are in question but if one was to look at their seats and compare to these pics you'll know if you'll be replace your seats. Oh my seat bases show being manufactured a month apart as well as the backs being built at different times.

    Mine was one of the early models that used a webbed lashing system. Never loosened up since day one.
    I stand corrected. There are snaps on the side rails but front & rear fasteners are a web & buckle affair that can be tightened. In any case the canvas has stayed taunt & tight in the 3 years I've owned this Slingshot.