Posts by BKL

    RPN is definitely better for financial and heavy math calculations, once you get used to it. HP has long offered RPN calculators. IIRC, the RPN calculator I had was a brand called NOVUS and I bought it in the PX for around $17 in 1977. Now, I've gotten used to conventional calculators.

    I've ended up using basic Geometry and some algebra in every job I've ever had. Sometimes, I admit I've had to look up a formula. For years, I kept a math book called "Handbook of Applied Math" or something like that. It was loaded with formulas for working with sheet metal ducting as well as masonry so you could calculate how many bricks or blocks would be needed for a given size wall with a specified mortar thickness as well as brief coverage of different math topics. IIRC, it devoted 4-5 pages to its refresher on Calculus. I used to read the book just because I found the different specialized formulas interesting. Makes me wonder where I last placed it. I might have given it away after I retired, but I hope not.

    I also tried running 2 strips on one side with only one blinker module, same results .....im starting to think these 4 strips are to much to handle on this circuit.......


    .......when i run just the lower , everything fine hasnt cut off at all, so far


    LED bulbs use significantly less amperage than conventional bulbs. Adding several different LED setups to a single flasher may well alter the load to the point that the flasher may not function properly. I don't know what the electrical requirements are for a normal incandescent bulb flasher, but You might see if a flasher designed for old-school bulbs might work if you can't find a better answer.

    Remember when math teachers told you to learn multiplication because "You won't always have a calculator".....

    I taught a class on grid coordinate conversion while in the Army and we typically allowed students to use calculators since there was a lot of math involved. I had a calculator that used RPN (Reverse Polish Notation), a system that doesn't use parentheses or the equals button when entering data. My students were all used to "normal" calculators that used parentheses and the equals button and always hated my RPN calculator. Of course, that was the main reason I kept it around!:evil:

    BKL Thanks for the line on Ronnie's website and the link. Great source for parts.

    I try to check as many sites as possible since the same site will not always necessarily be the lowest price for all parts. Ronnie's was definitely the lowest price for the Angle Drive.

    Here's the sites I usually check -


    Cheap Cycle Parts

    Part Shark

    Ronnie's Mail Order Parts

    CyclePartsNation Polaris Parts Nation

    Powersports Warehouse

    PowerPartsPlus

    TMSPARTS.com


    You'll notice several sites use the same basic formatting.

    At around 22K miles, I replaced the stock lube in my 2015 Slingshot with Redline Heavy Shockproof which is supposed to function as a multi-viscosity lube equivalent to a 75-250W lube. It's very popular with the HD folks for quieting the transmission and is not recommend for wet clutch use common to a lot of motorcycles. After changing the lube at around 58K miles, I evidently didn't get the Angle Drive fully refilled and it started making very loud noises. I ordered a replacement Angle Drive from http://www.ronniesmailorder.com, but when it was delivered, I found that the shipper must have had the package on its side as lube had leaked all over the place from the top-mounted vent. The lube was very thin and more like pneumatic tool oil. Before I actually swap the new Angle Drive in for the old one, I plan on draining and refilling the new Angle Drive with more Redline Heavy Shockproof.

    Due to the direct link between RPM and boost that SCs have, I'd expect lower mileage since you're going to use more fuel as RPM/Boost increases. Turbos lack the direct link between RPM and Boost, so driving more carefully and keeping boost off, it should be possible to drive w/o experiencing the additional gas flow boost brings. If you have larger injectors, there will be more fuel flowing thru the injectors, but in vacuum conditions (no Boost), although the larger injectors are injecting more fuel than the stock injectors would, the engine should still be using less fuel than when under boost.

    Before I installed my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo kit, I got around 28 MPG with my Twist Dynamics Top and MadStad Single Adjustable 13" windshield. After the install, driving the same roads and in a similar style (rapid acceleration from stops and occasional boosted periods when passing), my MPG dropped to around 26. I sometimes see MPG drop as low as just under 25 MPG and sometimes a little over 27 MPG, but most of the time, I see around 26 MPG.

    Look into these solderless connectors. I keep a buttload around and use them everywhere. Just need a heat gun or a strong hair dryer.

    Personally, I have no problem with the use of a butt connector as long as it is properly done, but I have also seen a review on the solderless connectors chavey2 recommended and the general review was favorable. Here's a review from Summit Racing -

    Carefully following the instructions shown in the review should produce a good join, especially if the wires are nicely meshed together before the assembly is heated and the joint becomes soldered.

    IIRC, below is the original review I saw on these connectors. The reviewer cuts thru the join and while he would prefer a little more solder for a better joint, he does seem satisfied wit the overall quality of the joint. He then compares the solderless connector to a soldered joint saying that he thinks the solderless connectors should be fine for smaller wires carrying low levels of current, but would prefer a conventional solder joint for heavier wires with higher current loads.

    For overall ease of use, I may still order some myself.

    Question of the day. Why are manhole covers round?

    So they can't be dropped into the hole. I think that if manholes were equilaterally-shaped triangles they also wouldn't be able to fit thru the holes but any rectangular or square shape can be positioned so that it drops thru the hole.

    Don't remember the YouTuber's name, but there's a guy with a stripped Mercedes (doors and body panels removed) who uses multiple cameras as he drives various roads. He has at least one video focused on different types of speed bumps at different speeds.

    Just after I posted my comment, I looked up and realized the speed bump video was on the screen after the video with the multiple speed bumps!;)

    Thinking a little more about the install, I still have concerns that if I need to remove the cover, it will affect the fuse socket connections. To avoid this situation, it might make sense to just notch the cover so the cover can be removed w/o affecting the thru-cables. If concerned about water-tightness, I'd look for some non-porpous foam that might be fit around the thru-cables that would hopefully provide a somewhat water-tight seal.

    It would be a complete PITA, but the only real way to avoid drilling the cover is to remove the fuse box from the Slingshot so you can access the wiring from below and then tap into the correct wires so you can then run the wire back to the switch. Pain to figure out, but a better approach from an appearance and waterproof perspective (as long as you take care to keep all connections watertight).

    An alternative would be to run the wires thru the bottom of the fuse box using holes drilled in an open relay spot, assuming there's an open slot in your fuse box). It's best to remove the fuse block so you can make sure that you are not drilling into any wires while making the holes. Then feed the connector and wire up from the bottom and make the connections to the fuse sockets just as if you had drilled the cover. I'd use some silicone to make it watertight. I'd assume this should work since the relays are shorter than the breakers in the Slingshot fuse box and there should be enough room above the relays to run the wires to the fuse sockets. This approach should work w/o needing any mods to the switch harness, but be sure to check wire lengths before starting any drilling and make sure you don't inadvertently damage any wires feeding to the fuse block.

    I had alot of the little battery-powered LED lights similar to what Bigdog linked, but I bought some of these from Amazon back in 2015. Amazon no longer sells them, but I found them on EBay - https://www.ebay.com/p/15030314198. The light only stays on while you hold the button down while inserting the key into the lock. The light glues to the key and I don't believe the battery is replaceable, but I've been using the same light around 6 years now.

    I have a 30 oz RTIC aluminum insulated cup that I hope to be able to use in that shade. I was at least able to buy it used from a Forum member. Hopefully I can use my 30 oz cup, but have found some smaller sizes if I need to switch, but I love the 30 oz size for how much ice it holds and how long it keeps drink cold.


    Update - Due to how I mounted my NASCAR style Windshield from AllThingsSlingshot, I need to remove the windshield to get the painted covers off so I can install the radio shade with cup holders. I'll try to remember to post pics with the large TRIC cup to show how it fits.