Posts by BKL

This site has it for $835 w/FREE shipping! http://bigboysgaragetoys.com/g…anger-quick-jack-bl-3500/
I've noticed some comments in other threads that this version might not be long enough for the distance between the Slingshot's front and rear lift points, so I'm not sure if it's a good recommendation or not.

My Brake Failure light started coming on last week about 1 week after I installed the SlingMods Brake Light Modulator. Disconnected the modulator, but the BF light keeps coming back on. Brakes work, but Cruise Control doesn't. Turn engine off and restart and the light is off and CC works. Depending on how often I use the brakes, the BF light comes back on and I lose the CC again. Going to dealer tomorrow (100 miles each way). Also gonna have the rear axle noise checked.

The aluminum heat shield is on the muffler. The muffler's proximity (too close) to the passenger footwell is one of the primary sources of heat for the passenger's foot area.
In the first picture, the airbox can be seen at the extreme right portion of the pic. Immediately below the airbox, you can see some black plastic cabling cover resting on an aluminum crossmember right in front of the engine. Just below that crossmember, you can see a dull black box-like piece that is the new heat deflector that deflects hot air from the radiator down under the engine instead of allowing it to flow back to the opening in front of where the Infotainment system goes. The air deflector comes factory-installed on the 2016.5+ models and, in Polaris' magnanimous approach to its customers, costs extra for those early purchasers who've been suffering thru the heat. Earlier models had only a thin piece of smooth aluminum shielding attached to the wall of the foot area. You can see it at the left side of the first picture and along what would be called a firewall on most vehicles in the second picture. I'm hesitant to call that piece of plastic a firewall on the Slingshot, though.

All kinds of junk. Things that come to mind are 2 sets of Mod Pods speaker enclosures for Jeeps, but which also fit the Slingshot. 1 modified one set to hold 6.5" speakers instead of 5.25" with some extra mounting holes for cable tie mounts. The extra holes can be plugged with silicone, wax, etc. The 5.25" set are unmodified. Also have a set of Kicker 5.25" speakers as well as a set of 6.5" speakers and several rear-view cams )one or two of which I might eventually use). I need to take the time to locate everything and figure out what to do with the stuff.
Hopefully, I over-estimated how much I spent on the not used stuff compared to what I've installed.

I've probably spent as much on things I ended up not using as things I have installed! Some things I returned, others I kept around too long to return.

I'm unsure which brand tires I will upgrade to next time I need tires. The Goodyear Eagle F1's at Discount Tire leave me with some concern over their cost and the possible impact of a clearly asymmetric tire on the rear. They cost around $545 plus installation & road hazard warranty, if available, for the Base model tire sizes which totals almost $700. NTB has Sumitomo HTR Z III tires (Front 225/45ZR17/Rear 295/30ZR18) for around $424 plus installation & road hazard warranty, if available. The Goodyears look like a better year-round tire, while the Sumitomos are a 3-season tire, not to be used in freezing or snow/ice conditions. I wouldn't be driving in freezing or snow/ice conditions, but might ride in near freezing temps. The Sumitomos are also asymmetrical tires, so they pose the same concern as far as any potentially negative handling impacts by having just one rear tire.
Does the use of an asymmetrical tire on a single rear-wheel vehicle pose a problem compared to having two rear wheels where any possible directional-favoring design would be canceled out by the other tire?
On a second note, I believe the Sumitomos lack a mileage warranty, while, IIRC, a Discount Tire rep posted on the other site that if the tires can't be rotated, then the tire is only rated at half its normal warranty, which would mean the Goodyears should have a warranty of 22,500 miles.
Since I desire to use the same tire pattern on all 3 tires, I'm limited as to which brands I can consider.

After checking some posts by Discount Tire on the other forum, I am no longer as concerned about running an asymmetrical tire on the rear.

Replaced my OEM rear tire at 10K miles. Now have almost 20K and thinking about new tires. OEM Fronts are still serviceable, but rear will soon need replacing. I plan on getting a Laser alignment once I replace all 3 tires.

Quote from rabtech

And this issue was just a thought that came into my head....Dont want to "put off" anyone with the idea... I know the site is new and I want it to grow and grow........

I want to hear everyones input.... I can simply make the tech area visible to everyone and when you click on it (if your not signed in) it will say that you need to be a member or you need to sign in...

I'm assuming that means that non-members can see the index for the tech area but need to be signed in to access a thread.

Quote from rabtech

NOPE..... Never will it cost the member a penny to access any of this info..... I was just thinking they need to sign up and become a member....

I have no problem with requiring a simple member ship for access. Once folks find value, they hopefully will also support site operations.

Seems to me people were complaining about the other site being too profit-oriented, yet now it is being proposed that only members can access here. Is that anyone who signs up or ONLY those who pay to support the site? I know it costs money to operate a site, yet this is the beginning of a slippery slope.

A word of warning about using roadside assistance thru your insurance company. Years ago, Consumer Reports ran a warning about insurance company roadside assistance saying many companies treat a roadside assistance claim the same as an accident. This could mean a rate increase. Not sure if this still holds or not. I have both AAA and AMA tow coverage. The American Motorcyclist Association includes coverage for the entire family if you have auto-renewal on your membership.

Quote from lowlander

For sure about the rigid mount location. The one I saw at Cycle Springs had its wing mounted to the roll hoop. A longer bracket would be needed.

Mounting the Wing to the roll hoops would seem top be the strongest method, although I'm not sure how much downforce could be generated that way since the brackets would need to be rather substantial to transmit any downforce back to the roll hoops.

Sounds

Quote from rabtech

I have both cameras run to a Y RCA video adapter. The cameras feed their signal when they are in the on position so they can't be on at the same time. Basically you flip the switch one way you see the front. The other way you see the rear. It feeds into the same single camera input on my head unit.

I think I know what your asking now. The cameras are grounded at the camera to the frame. Then at the switch the power is always at the common terminal. Then you press the top side of the switch when you want one camera and the bottom when you want the other.

Sounds like we both were thinking the same thing.

I have the Single Pole Dual throw switches from SlingMods.
How did you use the SPDT switch with your cams?
I've been thinking about wiring both camera outputs to the video in for my head unit and then wiring the power for each camera to run thru the SPDT switch so that I can then activate whichever camera I want to use.

Given the relatively small size of the Slingshot's fenders/wings, I seriously doubt they have much to do with the Slingshot's tendency to hydroplane. Hydroplaning occurs when the amount of water building up under a tire exceeds the tire's ability to drain the water out from under the tire in combination with a lightweight vehicle and relatively wide tread pattern. The wider tire makes it easier for water to build up underneath the tire while the vehicle's light weight makes it easier for the vehicle to "climb" up onto the water. The real problem is light vehicle with wide tires. If you want to drive safely in rain, you need tires biased for rain operation that are designed to maximize moving the water out from under the tire. Such a tire will undoubtedly impact dry road performance/traction since it will be more likely to have less rubber in contact with the road surface due to wider drain channels for the water.
Personally, I don't go out if it is already raining or rain is highly likely. If I do get caught in rain, then I slow down if I can't find a spot out of the rain to wait out the downfall.My dealer is 100 miles away and both times I have gone there for service, I've hit rain on the way back and I've typically dropped my speed from 70 mph down to 50-55 or slower if the rain or puddling is heavy.

I had toyed with the idea of a slotted plate that would allow the hood to open an extra few inches, but haven't tried to work out the geometry. I'd definitley be interested in a DIY effort or a reasonably priced commercial solution.

Six turbines(turbojets?) for power. Impressive, but doesn't sound like I will ever be able to afford one. I'm surprised he made the platform so small as stabilizing a larger platform should be easier. That was the main reason I wasn't sure if it was real or not.

Also looks pretty neat. Definitely looks like it needs some advanced electronics to make it work.

The current issue of Popular Science has an article about a propeller supported hoverboard and it is significantly larger than what is shown in the video. Doesn't mean the video isn't accurate, but makes me wonder.

Certainly looks interesting, but several things make me suspicious. The US Army tried a flying platform many years ago and it was considerably bigger. That platform looks very small and trying to balance something that small would seem to be pretty difficult without some serious electronics. Perhaps an advanced version of the balancing techniques used in Segways. Also, that platform looks awfully small to hold both some sort of power source and a motor powerful enough to provide the amount of lift exhibited in the video.
If it's real, It definitely looks like FUN.