Posts by BKL

I haven't reached my one year ownership anniversary, but if I don't go turbo, I plan on giving serious consideration to extending my warranty before it runs out.

Quote from lrobbi

I was thinking about that recall ... I hard pass on that since I went HIDs. Sorry to hear that @SlingJockey

You should still be able to get the relay fix. I had HIDs installed and got the relay fix. (OF course, maybe I just lucked out with my dealer. I told them I had HIDS just before they started the fix).
When the mechanic reconnected the HIDs to the wiring, he connected them the way the connectors are designed and no lights. For some reason, my HID connectors hooked up the opposite of the standard connectors. Once I showed them on one headlight, they fixed the rest.

When I first tested LED bulbs for the Center headlights, my Center headlights would sometimes go off if I went over 60 mph and come back on at about 40 mph and stay on as long as I didn't go over 60 mph. When the Center headlights went off, the outer auxiliary headlights would stay on, even though the original wiring had all 4 headlights on the same circuit. I tried some HIDS and the same thing happened. Now that I have had the relay fix, I haven't yet had a recurrence. I have since installed the Cycle Springs Canadian Headlight kit w/ all 6 LED bulbs.

Thanks for the clarification. Generally speaking, if my BF light comes on, restarting the engine allows the BF light to stay off and the Cruise Control to work until I have to actually use the brakes. I'll need to talk to the dealer when my warranty parts finally come in (front angle drive seal & replacement rear rotor).

Great story about GOOD folks doing the right thing.

As some dealers will claim, relying on info from Forums is a gamble at best! Outdated, rumor-based info!
In all seriousness, I feel Forums are a great mechanism for owners to exchange info about their experiences with a product.
I'm not aware of any change in the brake switches, but manufacturers slipstream changes like that all the time. That way they can just claim the change is a product improvement as opposed to being a needed fix for a problem.

Before I had the Headlight Recall fix, whne I was running HIDs and sometimes when i switched to LEDs, my Center lights would sometimes go off if I was going over 60 and then come back on once I slowed to about 40 as long as I didn't exceed 60 again. The odd thing was, the outer headlights would stay on, even though all four lights were then on the same circuit. I finally moved the outer headlights to the Fog Light circuit so I would always have a backup. The problem cleared up after I had the Headlight recall fix. Never could figure out why all four headlights never went out when the Centers did.

It seems the magnetic brake switches Polaris uses work fine until they start not working. Mine worked fine until about 19500 miles and I think my dealer adjusted them because the BF light didn't come back on during the trip home. A day or so later, the light started coming back on and the Cruise Control would stop. After turning the engine off and restarting, the light usually stay off for a while and the CC works until I have to use the brakes to come to a stop, at which point the BF light usually comes back on.
Several folks ( rabtech among them, IIRC) have switched to regular contact switches with custom fabbed brackets and that seems to have solved the problem. Check this thread on the old forum - Brake Failure Warning Light ( common problem / solution found ) | Page 8 | Polaris Slingshot Forum

I had been leaning towards the Goodyear Eagle F1s before I decided to try the Sumitomo HTR Z IIIs. Disocunt Tire had the Goodyears in the Base Stock sizes, but I wanted to go to a larger, matched tire on all 3 tires. The Goodyears have a 45000 mile warranty which Discount Tire reduces by half if the tires are mounted on a vehicle where they can't be rotated. I liked the Goodyears due to the hopefully longer tire life. If theGoodyears are indeed good for 22,500 miles, that's the equivalent of twice the Kenda mileage I got on my rears and they offer much better traction.

Quote from deaf1

Whats the widest tire I can put on the stock SL rim keeping the same height?

Use Discount Tire's Tire Calculator - Tire Size Calculator & Converter, Tire Size Conversion | Discount Tire.
Enter the stock tire size and then try different potential candidate tire sizes. The key is to stay within a few percent of the stock diameter. For example, I replaced my base 265/35R18 tire with a 295/30R18. The new tire is 24.97" compared to the stock tire diameter of 25.3". At the same RPMs that yielded 65 mph with the stock tire, the new 295 tire does 64.14 mph. In terms of percentage, the 295/30 tire is 1.3% smaller than the 265/35 stock tire. You should also keep in mind the maximum tire size recommended for your wheel rim width. The tire manufacturer's websites usually list this info.
I replaced my stock base tire with another Kenda at around 10000 miles and then replaced it with a Sumitomo HTR Z III 295/30R18 tire. I've got almost 21000 miles on my stock Base front tires and have ordered Sumitomo HTR Z III 225/45R17 tires to replace them.

After reading this thread and taking a look at the AeroCatch product, I found this on EBay -
Universal Black Racing Mount Bonnet Carbon Fiber Hood Pins Latch Key Locking Kit | eBay
I've been thinking for a while about installing some rear hood pins to make sure the hood can't pop up if the latches let go, but haven't gotten around to filming the vertical motion as the hood opens to make sure it lifts vertically before starting to lift forward. I was also looking for something with sufficient contact area to spread any pressure evenly around the hole to minimize chances of cracking the hood. The Ebay units are reportedly 2.5", so this may be a good start if I want to place some wider reinforcement to the under side of the hood. I was thinking about trying to locate the hood pins in the black accent strips towards the rear portion of the hood and fabricating some type of mount that would rest on the two frame tubes on each side of the engine compartment.
EBay also has locking pins similar to the AeroCatch product starting around $20.

Off-Topic - New Engine comment
While I tend to agree with @rabtech about customers wanting existing power levels or better, one of the questions in the late Summer 2015 survey from Polaris specifically asked about a cheaper version of the Slingshot with less HP, so it would seem to me that a new engine is a possibility. If Polaris goes that route, I would certainly like to see a lighter, smaller version to hopefully make up for at least part of the power loss.

I used to be 6'1"and currently have a MadStad 13" windshield. I rederilled it to lower it about 1" during cold weather. When lowered, it can touch the hood, so I usually keep it just off the hood. I also need to raise the shield if I want to open the hood. When in the lowered position I can easily see over the windshield. When I use the factory holes the bottom of the shield is about 2" off the hood and I need to stretch my neck to see over the windshield.
Rain-X makes a version for use with plastic windshields and Plexus Plastic Cleaner, Protectant and Polish does a great job of cleaning the windshield and removing minor scratches.

One thing I miss when riding at night is watching the various Birds of Prey (non-Klingon) we have here in Texas. Due to the heat, I ride primarily at night and barely get to glimpse the occasional owl.

I've wondered about having a Start Button that dims after starting. It could still be RED, just not as bright.

I'm surprised your dealer hasn't already switched you to the two nut solution as it was reported on the other site that the two-nut solution should be used if the customer has reported having to retighten the single nut. Unfortunately, their Search feature didn't let me find anything.

My 2008 Suzuki V-Strom 650 was Yellow and Black and I felt the Slingshot would look good the same way. I finally found someone to repaint my Slingshot from the original Titanium to Yellow at a price I could afford. of course, I got what I paid for. The paint job is definitely Not the quality @Painter would have done, but it was in my meager price range, and I would rate it about a 2-3 ft paint job. Any closer and the flaws can be seen, but seeing it on the road, it looks OK.

I just had my 20,000 mile service at my dealer and I'm not sure if they lubed it or not. They've done the last 2 services, but I'm not sure if they lubed the U-joint.

At least one person posted about using a bilge blower to help cool their Slingshot interior on the other site.

I wonder if the new grease-free u-joint can be used to replace the original u-joint? Also, is it worth the cost? I was wondering about the use of the original greased u-joint as I haven't had a car in years that required greasing.

I bought the Han CAI because the seal along the hood just seemed like a good way to go. After installing it, I eventually replaced the rubber molding with some window unit AC foam seal because I felt the hard rubber molding was placing too much pressure against the hood and I was worried about my hood popping loose. This happened to me once and while I can't definitively say pressure from the CAI's rubber molding caused the hood to pop, I just didn't want to risk it happening again. I just like the Hahn CAI design alittle more, I guess. I guess I need to check the filter at my 20,000 mile service due now.