Posts by BKL

Depending on the weather where you live, you may or may not be able to use the Slingshot as a daily driver. As temps get down into the 40s, the Slingshot becomes less fun to drive. If there is snow or ice, don't take the Slingshot out for a couple of reasons. First, wide wheels and light weight don't do well on ice or snow, wet roads are bad enough w/o the frozen forms of water complicating things. Second, until we've had a few years to see how well protected the relatively exposed frame of the Slingshot stands up to the elements, especially salt from winter roads, you probably want to minimize exposure to things that might cause problems over time. Some folks who do go out on salt-covered roads wash their Slingshots after each trip, just to be safe. The Slingshot can get very hot in the Summer and pretty cold in the Winter. Do lots of research on the various forums and get a good idea of the Slingshot's annoyances and you should be able to make an educated decision.
Also, consider buying a used Slingshot. Even with expensive mods, most Slingshots will not draw the full amount spent on the mods. Smarter owners will remove and sell expensive mods separately, but if you can find someone who doesn't want to go to all the bother of that, you can probably score a good machine with mods you want, at a decent price.There is little performance difference between the model years other than the reduced weight (and slightly better performance if anyone can really notice the difference), but the newer models have improved cockpit comfort due to changes in engine compartment airflow, but the older models can be improved in this area by adding more insulation. There are lots of threads on various mods that make it easy to do the mods yourself.

Glad you're relatively OK.
The past couple years, my right knee doesn't seem to always want to work properly when I first stand after sitting in one place for awhile. Sometimes it doesn't want to straighten out and lock so I can walk. Nothing like taking a step onto a leg that starts collapsing!
I also occasionally lose my balance when I get up from a low position like sitting on the ground or sleeping on a mattress on the floor. Seems like I over-compensate from the effort of getting up and stumble a it before regaining control.
Getting older SUCKS!

Slightly off-topic, but still appropriate for this thread -
1991 Eagle Talon - 8.76! - Hot Rod Network
It's a good read on getting 1000 HP (estimated) from 2 liters!

many of us would buy it, but I'm not sure about Polaris' Not Invented Here corporate culture.

Polaris has reduced the weight of the Slingshot the past couple years, but I believe the current weight reductions are to allow for the new roof and probably wouldn't allow the roof AND a turbo.

Quote from BONES

After This Slingshot I will probably not get another. Ticks me off Polaris is pumping out 2-3 models a year and changing every time. I get it, keeping up with what people want, but when a SS is "Out dated" a year later, Not good for owner. Plus trade in will probably deplete like crazy. MHO

While Polaris does make model changes several times per year, every Slingshot produced to date still has varied only in the cosmetic aspects and still has the exact same motor, transmission, drivetrain and steering we all enjoy/suffer with, so I don't really see anything other than how old, how many l miles it has and how well it's been maintained affecting Slingshot value.

Quote from Shatneyman

You can get a kit or a complete version. Kits are about $25K and complete is about $35-$40K. The company is about 100 miles from where I live. They contacted me last year and had a rolling chassis complete, with everything, minus motor for $22K. I was all set to buy one a couple years ago, before the SS was released. I went with the SS and having a ball!

While I don't mind the looks of the T-Rex and its clones, none of them offer the level of engineering safety (aka nanny controls) at anywhere near the Slingshot's prices.

Quote from BONES

Owner of dealer I just picked up Sling said he just got back from CA Slingshot meeting. Navy Blue is a fact and a custom model w/ top, seats, tires, But the Turbo he said is FALSE INFO....

While the 2015 survey did ask about offering a turbo'd Slingshot, Polaris would need to lose a significant amount of weight from the Slingshot to meet their weight target. I'd still like to know the exact circumstances behind their weight limit as I've not been able to locate any US or State weight limit for a motorcycle.

I've now got around 32K miles on my 2015 Slingshot and awhile back I bought some RP (75/90? or 75/140?, Can't remember), but still haven't put it in as I'm still thinking about the Redline Shockproof which is supposed to be equivalent to the 75/90 - 75/140, but is reported to have better lubing properties for noisy gears.

Quote from BONES

After This Slingshot I will probably not get another. Ticks me off Polaris is pumping out 2-3 models a year and changing every time. I get it, keeping up with what people want, but when a SS is "Out dated" a year later, Not good for owner. Plus trade in will probably deplete like crazy. MHO

While Polaris does make model changes several times per year, every Slingshot produced to date still has varied only in the cosmetic aspects and still has the exact same motor, transmission, drivetrain and steering we all enjoy/suffer with, so I don't really see anything other than how old, how many l miles it has and how well it's been maintained affecting Slingshot value.

Quote from Shatneyman

You can get a kit or a complete version. Kits are about $25K and complete is about $35-$40K. The company is about 100 miles from where I live. They contacted me last year and had a rolling chassis complete, with everything, minus motor for $22K. I was all set to buy one a couple years ago, before the SS was released. I went with the SS and having a ball!

While I don't mind the looks of the T-Rex and its clones, none of them offer the level of engineering safety (aka nanny controls) at anywhere near the Slingshot's prices.

While I can understand @ZimDogs concern about refining what already has problems, unfortunately, that is NOT Polaris' approach to marketing. They never viewed the noisy right angle drive as a design flaw, instead thinking of it as another way of extracting money from their customers. The survey I took back in 2015 specifically asked if I would be willing to pay more for a quieter drivetrain.

That pretty much fits with the questions in the survey I filled out for Polaris after buying my 2015 Base Slingshot. IIRC, I completed the survey in Sept 2015. One of the questions specifically addressed a lower-cost model. Automatic transmission and turbos were also addressed in different questions.
Polaris has also been talking about developing their own engine. Having the GM motor and transmission was one of the big selling points for me, especially as the main Poalris-designed and built component (the right angle drive and axle setup) has seemed problematic for a sizable number of purchasers.

@Slunglow, the tire will be off to the left as shown here - Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit.
I don't think I can safely remove anywhere near enough metal from the wheel. The wheel only cost $149, IRC, and if the Slingshot handles OK with the wheel/tire mounted, I don't really care if it looks off. The wheel itself, is similar in spoke design (14 vs 16 spokes on the OEM wheel), but differs in color and shiny stripe. The main thing I was looking for was finding a 17" wheel wide enough to mount a 315/35R17 tire to pretty much match the dimensions of the OEM rear tire.
Here's a picture of the wheel compared to a Base Slingshot wheel -

Mismatched wheels are still acceptable to me as long as they look somewhat similar.

Duh! I didn't think about that.

Quote from Tripod

I've used these on dirt bikes for many years. Waterproof. Can purchase with lock also. Might be some creative places to mount these...

The Tool Tube

That's the type of accessory I was referring to earlier.

Groupon is currently selling these https://www.groupon.com/deals/…e-374276c60558_0_20170221. Don't know how hard they'd be to adapt for underseat mounting, but they look like a useful size.

I just took delivery of a Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 I ordered from DiscountTireDirect. It's just about the same dimensions as the factory 265/35R18 tire and will result in a speed of just under 66 mph at an indicated 65. The only potential drawback is that I plan on using an American Muscle 10th Anniversary Cobra 17 x 10.5" wheel that has a +28 offset. The different offset will place the right side of the tire in about 4 mm to the left of the original factory wheel and tire with the left side of the tire just under 30 mm to the left of the original tire/wheel edge.
Here's a couple of pic showing the Nitto 555 G2 315 next to my current Nankang NS20 275/35R18 and another pic showing the new Nitto tire behind the current tire to give an approximation of how the new tire should look when mounted.

I'll just have to see how it will handle with the wheel slightly off-center.

Back when I had my V-Strom 650, riders used to use a piece of ABS pipe as a carrier for tools or other miscellaneous items. It was placed on the side opposite the muffler and some felt it balanced the bike's looks. I haven't checked for available space and whether or not the following might interfere with inserting the key in the ignition, but a small piece of ABS pipe might fit between the instrument pod and the center console. Just glue an end cap on a short length of pipe and hang it under the dash. Alternatively, it might be mounted to the side of the console if your knee doesn't hit it and maybe have one on each side of the console. A piece about 5" long should hold a candy bar or a pair of glasses.

At least one Double Din mounting case with a water cover is available at a cost of around $150-170, IIRC. I think @rabtech used one and at least one other person did, too, but I can't remember if he posted here or on TDS. I don't remember if the DD mount required any additional mods to make it fit properly. I do remember someone mounting a DD mount on top of the plastic work and then redid it so it was installed from within for better looks.
Here's a list of loinks I found searching for Double Din -
Double DIN - Splash Guard Installation
no cutting Double Din Radio Kit with cover!
Double din with no modification?
Team need help with Double din Mount
Double Din Install Questions

i originally purchased the Lanzar round AM/FM radio from Amazon since it supports video display on its relatively small 2.5" or display (Amazon.com: Lanzar AQR80B Aquatic Waterproof Bluetooth Marine Digital Receiver Stereo Radio, USB/MP3/AM/FM/AUX Input, Round/Circle: Cell Phones & Accessories) and was going to pair it with a Clarion XC2410 amp, but I switched to a simple Boss MC900B Bluetooth Amp since it was a direct-connect to the Slingshot radio wiring and didn't require the direct-battery connection the Clarion amp required. The Lanzar unit was rated 3 stars. If I really wanted a marine radio with display, and were doing it over again, I'd consider the Pyle PLMR94W which is basically the same unit, but is rated 1/2 star higher. Pyle also makes this radio in Black, but lists it as currently unavailable on its website. Amazon also carries this Pyle unit which Pyle lists as having audio/video in/out display capability - Amazon.com: Pyle PATVR14 Marine Bluetooth Audio/Video Receiver - Water Resistant A/V Stereo Headunit, Color LCD Display, USB Reader: Cell Phones & Accessories, but it has no reviews.
Amazon used to carry several standard marine radios with a display capability, but they no longer seem to be on the market.
If you should choose to try one of the Pyle/Lanzar round radios, I have a custom aluminum mounting plate I designed and had cut with a water-jet. It also has a small storage hole made from some PVC pipe and a small digital voltmeter hole. I attached a couple of pics of the mounting plate.

I still have the radio and the mounting plate. If anyone's interested, I'll sell the radio (mounted and removed form the plate, but never used), the storage piece, the digital voltmeter (again, installed and removed, but never used) and the mounting plate for $90 + shipping. PM me, if interested. I also posted a copy of the mounting plate layout that should print a full-size mounting template.

The storage cubby is a little crude, but works.

I should also add that the Pyle and Lanzar units are not equipped with RCA outs for an amp, so if you want to use with an amp, an amp with speaker-level inputs or a converter is needed.

According to the Polaris Parts House diagram (2015 Polaris SLINGSHOT ALL OPTIONS (T15AAS/AAP) Electrical, Sound System T15aap All Options (49Slingshotsound14sling) | Babbitts Polaris Partshouse), that is listed there as # 11 and is available as an exchange part only. Time to spring for a new unit. Just about anything should be better.

I'm now at around 32,000 miles and am still running my original front Kenda tires on my 2015 Base Slingshot and have now used three different rear tires (the original Kenda 265/35R18 (2of them), a Sumitomo HTR Z III 295/30R18 and a Nankang NS-20 275/35R18) and haven't noticed any handling problems with the different tire mixes and have been quite happy with the performance and life of the front Kendas.
I am now getting ready to replace my tires and am planning on getting a Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 mounted on an American Muscle 17 x 10.5 10th Anniversary Cobra wheel originally used on Ford Mustangs. I was also thinking about buying new Kendas for the front, but just noticed that Kenda no longer lists the 205/50R17 KR20 tires that were original equipment on my Slingshot. Here's a link to the Kenda website - http://automotive.kendatire.co…s/find-a-tire/uhp/kaiser/. According to Kenda, their current KR20 offerings for 7" rims are their 205/45ZR17, 215/45R17 or 215/45R17 (both H-rated) and 225/45ZR17. According to Discount Tire's Tire Size Calculator, the 225/45 tires are the closest dimensional match to the original 205/50R17 tires, but 7.5 or 8" rim is the recommended rim size, with a 7" rim being the smallest listed.
Has anyone had any experience running a 225/45 on a 7" rim? I'm just wondering if using the 225/45 on a 7" rim might have any negative impacts on handling.

A forum member over on TDS said he wanted MORE heat, not less.
I suggested searching EBay for "cab heater", or he might try a cheaper alternative as described in the attached PDF file. Some folks installed vents in the outer footwell wall to draw in cooler air. Installing similar vents in the transmission tunnel might draw the warmed air from the transmission tunnel, especially once you've insulated the cubby area.
It may not bring in a lot of warm air, but the cost is relatively cheap.