@SaltyClownNY referenced this earlier. Just thought I'd provide a link - OBD Diagnostics. I assume you could use the output from the OBD2 software to feed into a microCPU card to produce OBDII-compliant output. Won't allow anyone to change the ECU programming, but should support the use of OBDII-compliant heads up displays/instrumentation.
Posts by BKL
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(Pre-Metrics Hugger fender photo - yes, Slingshots like donuts!)...
Is it the Donuts, the sprinkles or both that increase traction? Or, does the grease from the donuts increase the eater's flow-thru?
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IIRC, there were some posts about efforts to read the data stream from the ECU over on TDS. I believe they all came before Bob managed to figure out how to reprogram the ECU.
This was the best link I could find, but there might be others -
Reading the data from the diagnostic port. Pics on page 5 | Polaris Slingshot Forum.
I don't remember if it was in this thread, but I distinctly remember reading where someone posted the data stream was NOT OBDII compliant and had a different length/order, or something to that effect. -
As with many motorcycle accessories, expect any mod to add 50% of its cost at most to the sale price. Removing a TC or SC and selling it separately may bring more money than including it in the sale.
I bought a Hahn turbo kit because it offered the lowest entry cost for a full system. I've been taking my time with the install since I don't have available cash if I break something.
From a durability POV, adding mods such as a CAI, aftermarket exhaust, the Hahn intake manifold and an ECU reflash seem to really focus the power band from 3200-redline and seem to make a decent impact on how the Slingshot is driven based on user feedback (see NEW! StreetRace Billet Intake Manifold from Hahn RaceCraft!). These types of changes to a NA motor should not cause any problems that might occur in a boosted situation and as such, shouldn't lead to increased likelihood of engine problems beyond the fact that the driver may well find him/herself operating the engine at the upper end of its rpm range. Of course, the extra power developed will be much less, too, but again at much lower risk of problems. Total cost of these NA mods could still approach the levels of a lower-cost turbo system, though. -
I assume you're referring to this Rivco Products Slingshot Fender - Polaris Slingshot Rear Fender - RIVCO. I prefer Function over Form and place emphasis on getting the job done. The Rico fender keeps most debris that flies off the rear wheel from ending on the Slingshot's rear deck. Is it pretty? Not so much, but it pretty much does the job at a price that is significantly less than other Slingshot Fenders. I bought mine back in 2015 when fenders were in the $500-1000 range and swing-arm mudflaps were a minimum $30+, so getting both for $150 + shipping definitely met my budget. Hugger-style fenders definitely look better, but I can't see paying their prices. Small decals can be placed on the sides of the fender, but I've been thinking about modding the rear slanted panel for the license plate to better display stickers like my US Army decal, etc. In summary, the Rivco fender emphasizes protection over style at a very affordable price.
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I understand using a magnetic oil drain plug, especially on older engines which lacked the much tighter manufacturing tolerances common to modern engines. Manufacturing tolerances are so good today that there is little likelihood of appreciable material wearing during break-in or normal operation once you're past the first oil change, but insurance is great if it comforts you. Looking at @Bigdogs post above, I like the idea of using the magnetic drain plugs in the trans and especially in the right-angle drive given Poalris' design choices for that unit!
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Alpha, although now apparently belly-up, offered their turbo system in a Group Buy a while back for around $4400 (not sure if that included an exhaust or not, but I don't think it did).
Every now and then, Hahn has offered a "Slightly Warm" special that includes a FREE Street Race muffler (normally $600) that someone else traded-in to upgrade to a side exhaust. Hahn still offers the same lifetime warranty on their muffler (if it breaks, your life is over
). I bought my "Slightly Warm" special before he lowered his system prices and got a basic Hahn Stage 2/2X system for $4000 + shipping. Now, Hahn's system is priced even lower and a brand new Hahn Stage 2/2X turbo kit with the Full Race exhaust ($400, very LOUD) gets you in at $3800 + shipping. Figure another $300+/- for a Boost/AFR gauge setup. If you want someone else to do the install for you, figure on another $1200 or so (based on costs here int he Houston area). Hahn also offers Street Race and Side exhaust systems for $600/900, respectively). Obviously, options can drive the cost higher. Personally, I like the sound of the Street race exhaust with the optional baffles as I prefer to ride at night and don't want to wake my neighbors. It's still a little loud, but I like the deep sound.
Going with an aftermarket exhaust designed for a boosted system costs in the $1500-2000 range. I originally was leaning towards an SC setup, but they cost more and still needed an exhaust on top of that, so I went with Hahn. If you're limited on funds, but still want to get started with a boosted system, Hahn offers their Stage 1 System (3-4 lbs Boost, but no Intercooler) starting at $2700 + exhaust. He offers an upgrade path to go from Stage 1 to Stage 2/2X for around $900. Costs a little more in the long run, but you can get started at a relatively safe boost level at a decent price.
Even with the basic Stage 1 system, I'd recommend a combo or dual Boost/AFR gauges to keep an eye on your system. A lot of SC owners don't use gauges since there is a direct link between engine rpm and boost. With turbos, there can be some variation in boost and it is more important to keep an eye on what is happening to your system. Running lean seems to be the most significant cause of problems with boosted systems, so monitoring AFR is very important, regardless of boost system. Even with gauges, you might not notice dangerous conditions, but at least you have the info available to hopefully realize you have a problem, so I feel the $300+/- cost of monitoring Boost and AFR is a smart expenditure.
AEM gauges Boost and AFR seem to be popular. I chose an Innovate SCG-1 combo gauge that monitors Boost and AFR and can also be used as a boost controller, although that feature hasn't been made to work well with the Slingshot. Koso makes a waterproof gauge for snowmobiles and motorcycles, so I may switch to Koso at some point in the future.
Depending on the situation, it may take a month or more for your system to get ready to ship.
FWIW, I have no connection to Hahn beyond having paid them my money. -
Generally, magnetic oil pan drain plug bolts cost less than $15. Should not affect your electricals, but on an aluminum motor like the Slingshot, there isn't a whole lot of steel/iron for the magnet to work on.
This is one of those, do it if you feel like it mods. -
I know folks have been complaining about various Alpha products for awhile now (mufflers, especially), but losing them is a shame as they were a major innovator for Slingshot accessories. Feel sorry for the folks who had problems, but Alpha's efforts will be missed. At least we still have Hahn, SlingMods, DDM Works and the other newer vendors.
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Thanks for the encouraging words. Now that I'm retired, I seem to get far less done much more slowly than when I was actively employed! Thinking about getting a part time job just to force me to a better schedule, but not really looking forward to being back on someone else's schedule.
I'll just keep researching until I think I know enough to get things straightened out. -
After my Daughter used the USB endoscope camera to look inside the bell-housing and didn't see anything a couple of weeks ago, I repeated the process today and didn't see anything either. Even though I still haven't found part of the plastic tab or the bolt, I went ahead and started my engine. Fortunately, there were no loud bangs or other unwanted noises.
I admit I am still a little concerned about the AFR as it still seems a little high. When I started the motor today, the AFR was around 15.8-16.0, so I guess I still need to check a few more things.
Then, I can finish gathering the tools I've spread all over the carport the last few months and I can reinstall my wheels for a shakedown cruise before I recheck all of the various fasteners for tightness. Then I can reinstall the body side pieces I removed and actually try using my Slingshot! -
My 3 years of High School Electronics training agrees with your assessment, especially after the original headlight wiring fiasco. I just haven't gotten around to it. Industry practice often uses undersized wiring for short-term, intermittent applications. I know I should take the time to fix it, but I just haven't gotten around to it. It's hard to believe it's been 50 years since I started High School!
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Yes. I was a Nuclear Electrician on submarines. I was in the USAF first (75-79) & was out for 2 years prior to going into the Navy (81-87). Based on my testing scores, they asked me to be in the nuclear program (which was what I wanted anyways & wouldn’t have gone in otherwise; wanted to go into civilian nuclear power & the Navy experience gets you in the door - worked out very well!).
My Intelligence experience led to 24+ years as a Civilian Intelligence Analyst, so I can't complain. I was interested in engineering before I joined the Army, so I was also interested in the Navy nuclear program. I think the shortage of intell linguists affected all the services and I was already an E-6 when I talked to the navy recruiter about changing, so that may have affected things, too.
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I thought about using sex toy, but dildo is just a thing where as H... carries socially negative/unacceptable baggage. Of course, I guess all 3 terms have their baggage for some folks. I just generally try to avoid using the full H... word in posts to avoid offending sensitive folks like our fellow forum members.
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I have a Wolo 619 Single tone horn and run it off the original horn wiring. While it technically draws more current than the original horn, since the horn is rarely used for any extended length of time, everything works. There is a chance that something could go wrong at some point, especially if the horn button gets stuck in the ON position and running a separate relay-activated circuit should provide more power and the horn should technically be louder, but I haven't noticed any problems in the last 2 years. It's one of those 'I plan on eventually getting around to fixing it' things.
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Pictured by itself, in that stripper purple color, it looks like something a whole lot more exciting than a mug handle.
I remember reading an online post where a woman got one of those handles from her Mother for Xmas. Having never seen one before, and not having yet opened the insulated tumbler it went with, she asked her Mother why in H... did you give me a dildo?!
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As a matter of fact, I was. That was a standard joke. Actually, after completing our basic language training, but before we went to our Advanced Individual Training (Goodfellow AFB, San Angelo, TX, in my case), we were told to tell people we were training as In-Flight Missile Repairmen (always reminded me of Slim Pickens' role in Dr. Strangelove).!
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Found the same handle for $5.99 with prime shipping - ref=sspa_dk_detail_1. I preferred Yellow to match my 2015 Slingshot.
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Thought about the Srmy but I served in both the Nir Force & Qavy instead...
@Tripod, were you in the Navy nuclear program? I asked the Navy about changing from the Army for their enlisted nuclear training program, but they said they weren't looking for prior service and were more interested in the fact I was an Army linguist.
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I've had a beard since I got out of the Army in 1984, but never used beard oil. Seeing this thread and my preference for good old Old Spice aftershave led me to this Google Search - diy old spice aftershave beard oil - Google Search
OK, @Tripod, I fixed my misspelling. I really need to pay more attention to what my fingers enter as compared to what I was actually thinking! All too often, I seem to hit an adjacent key or hit the first letter of the next word before hitting the space bar.
