Posts by BKL

Unlike @TravAZ, I lack the patience to work on one small wire inside a big bundle near the ECU, so I ran a wire inside a plastic wire tube up along the wire harness leading to the front cylinder and ran it back into the wire loom and then shaved some insulation off the White w/brown line wire and tightly wrapped my wire around the area of the wire now exposed on the White/brown wire. I then soldered it for a secure connection and stuck some cardboard behind that wire to protect the other wires and sprayed on some white liquid rubber (PlastiDip) for insulation and waterproofing and let it cure overnight before I wrapped the connection with some electrical tape. I then tucked all of the wires for the front cylinder back in the original factory wire loom/tubing and wrapped the end of the loom to help keep everything dry. See attached pic.

I used 22 ga solid Bell/Thermostat wire, but I recommend using stranded instead of solid wire to better resist flexing from vibration.
I had originally planned to use a plastic tap connector, but I didn't feel there was enough room inside the loom for everything to fit. Be careful not to cut thru the very small wire when stripping off the insulation. I nicked one strand but was able to keep it attached and part of the solder connection. I initially tried a small handheld butane torch, but that was too much heat over too wide an area and quickly switched to an electric soldering iron to seal the connection.

I don't know, but I wonder if it might be a Synchromesh problem. Seems odd, though since you can shift from 4th to 5th but not back down. Wish I could offer a solution.

Good to know this.
I sometimes see AFRs at idle in the 19-20 range, but as soon as I start to give it any gas, the AFR drops down to the 12-14 range (usually at the lower end of that range). During engine braking, I sometimes see AFRs as high as 22, which does disturb me somewhat, but again, as soon as I return throttle pressure, the AFR drops down to a more acceptable range.
I finally got around to hooking up the rpm readout on my SCG-1 AFR/Boost gauge so I can cross-reference the AFR & Boost numbers to my engine rpm. Now if I can just find a better video capture tool than the Xbox recording capability in Windows 10.

Personally, I prefer the solid structure provided by the Bullet Speed V-back Top and the Twist Dynamics Gen 1 (and hopefully the 2-piece Gen 2 Top) frames. It's been a while and I can't find the original post (don't remember which forum or date), but I remember reading about a Slingshot that was basically hit head on by a Toyota Sequoia (I think) and the Sequoia ended up going up over the Slingshot's engine compartment and then rode the Top's frame over the Slingshot. As I recall, the poster credited the Top with saving his/their life. I have a TD Gen 2 2-piece top, so I don't know if the frame is as strong as a one-piece frame, but the way I look at it, having a Top with a frame connecting at the outer corners of the cockpit should hopefully help protect the cockpit and whoever's inside.
That said, TD offers a fiberglass top w/scoops for cooling air to replace the canvas top for their Gen 1 and Gen 2 Tops. The fiberglass top is listed at $695 and I don't know if you get a reduction in cost if it's ordered at the same time as a new frame. oddly, the fiberglass top is listed on Allthingsslingshot, but not on the TD site.
Being low on funds, I've thought about fabbing a hard top using fiberglass or aluminum, but my canvas top is currently meeting my needs.

Quote from edwardaneal

One time when I left the Slingshot parked at the market when I came out a girl was getting ready to get in it so her friend could take a picture. When they saw me they asked if it would be okay and she was cute so I let her, but it was very clear that if I hadn't walked up she was going to help herself. These days if I have to park it where I won't be around to keep an eye on it I lock the steering wheel to the frame with Master lock Street Cuffs. they do provide added security, but the main reason why I like them is they keep idiots from sitting in the driver seat

Unfortunately, I think somebody would just try to climb over the passenger seat to slide intot he driver's seat and avoid the cuffs

Quote from iNewton

The only way is to have it shut down the ignition really. The ecu can’t receive exterior signals to trigger a limp mode or whatnot.

It would appear the ECU's inability to accept external signals is also a problem with the Innovate Motorsports SCG-1. As @Dave@DDMWorks posted above, it's a combined AFR/Boost gauge and can be setup so that out-of-range AFR or Boost readings can operate a solenoid to reduce boost to whatever your basic spring setting is. I would think that if a 3 lbs+/- spring were used to set a base boost level and the solenoid was then used to control boost above that level with boost dropping back to 3 psi if a problem is detected would be a good thing, but, unfortunately, I have NOT read or seen any postings where anyone claims to have gotten the SCG-1 to work smoothly with our ECU.
I have the SCG-1 and have it monitoring AFR and Boost and am finally getting around to connecting it to the ignition system so I can track AFR & Boost vs RPM. I also use the PL-1 Data Logger from Innovate to record the AFR & Boost levels, but w/o being able to match both to engine RPM, the info doesn't really tell you enough about how the system is working.
If the Solenoid Boost control system isn't going to be used, Innovate recommends using their cheaper PSB-1 AFR/Boost combo gauge.
I would certainly like to know if anyone has figured out how to get the SCG-1 to work properly with the Slingshot's ECU.

The Kenda Kaiser KR20 tires Polaris uses on the Slingshot are rated 300AA and should be considered on the slightly softer side. Nitto Motivo AS UHP tires, by comparison, are a much harder tire rated at 560AA (with a 60,000 mile warranty when used on a vehicle where they are routinely rotated) while the Nitto 555 G2 Summer UHP tires are rated 320AA with no tread warranty. Nitto's drag tires are rated 200AA A or 140 AA A, depending on model and would be considered a very soft tire.

Not sure from your post if you want assistance from SlingMods or BulletSpeed.
Since you want to buy a new top cover, I'd try calling Bullet Speed @ 727-940-2922 or 727-809-3256.

Quote from BKL

Loosen the center nut holding the steering wheel on, but leave it with several threads still holding the nut on and use your hand or a rubber hammer to work the steering wheel loose. The nut keeps the wheel from flying off and hitting you.

Sorry it didn't work for you. I need to swap steering wheels soon, so I hope it works for me.

Loosen the center nut holding the steering wheel on, but leave it with several threads still holding the nut on and use your hand or a rubber hammer to work the steering wheel loose. The nut keeps the wheel from flying off and hitting you.

Quote from 2W2X1

@BKL wow... that is really pathetic. Did you punch out the piece inside those lights?

The directions call for bending the plate inside the Outer Auxiliary Headlights, which I had turned off in the GIF. As poorly as the SSO CH units perform in my Slingshot, I'm not in a great hurry to pull things apart so I can try and shim the SSO CH units. The SSO Ch units I bought came already modified for the LED bulbs, which were installed by SSO before they shipped.
I hate to think it, but given how little light the SSO CH units produce, I think I might be wasting my time if I try to shim the units for better aim. I just ordered a tow dolly from Allthingsslingshot and can't afford any other mods for awhile.

As the previous post shows the SSO CH units go to High Beam.
The following video shows how little light they produce and how poorly they are aligned with the original outer auxiliary headlights (I blocked the main Center headlights so the Canadian units' output could be detected) -
SSo-CHb.gif

Here's a daylight ic of the front showing my SSO Ch units -

I took a night-time view from the driver's side , but you can not tell if the SSo CH units are doing anything when I select High beam. I might post it later once I edit it down.

1. Year & model: 2015 Base w/ Hahn Turbo added 3000 mile ago

2. Street, racing: Street

3. Brand and Size: Front Nitto Motivo 215/50R17 on stock Base front wheels
Rear Nitto 555 G2 315/35R17 on American Muscle 10th Anniversary Cobra Style 17 x 10.5 " + 28 mm offset wheel

4. Front or Rear: See above

5. Change In Size: Pretty close to stock base sizes

6. Dealer and Price: Discount Tire Direct. The Motivos were $142 ea with road hazard coverage. The 555 G2 315/35R17 was $241 with road hazard coverage. Mounting at local Discount Tire was $48 or so for all 3.

7. Codes or Issues: No codes. The 555 G2 is slightly taller and runs at 66 mph with the Speedo displaying 65 mph.

8. Notes: Bought an Achilles ATR Sport 275/35R18 as a spare on the stock base wheel from Amazon for $77 (mounted for $16 at local DT). I've seen Achilles ATR Sport 2 305/30R18 for less than $150, but haven't found an inexpensive wheel to go with it.

Quote from 2W2X1

I really don't want to risk electrical issues with the draw of 6 HID lights on full time...
I failed to mention I originally ordered the Slingshot Only Canadian conversion and returned them when I read I had to modify them. They looked cheaply made as well. When I read that Sling mods sourced the factory units, I purchased those and was pleased with their quality and not having to modify them.
You mention the light output of the Canadian lights and having to angle them to better align with the factory set. Question for you... Did you reverse the wiring to them to have them on high beams full time? I noticed the low beam output was very weak. The alignment isn't too off with the set I installed and having the Canadian lights on high beam, they produce better lighting.

After doing some research, I found the SlingMods instructions to set the Canadian Headlights to High beam. Anybody know if that trick works for the Slingshotonly setup?

Quote from 2W2X1

I really don't want to risk electrical issues with the draw of 6 HID lights on full time. I am leaning toward LED again, and was hoping new offerings were out there.

Last LED kit I ordered left the rear of the light housing wide open and I have been caught in plenty of rain in the past. I would hate for water to intrude into the housing and fog it up.

I failed to mention I originally ordered the Slingshot Only Canadian conversion and returned them when I read I had to modify them. They looked cheaply made as well. When I read that Sling mods sourced the factory units, I purchased those and was pleased with their quality and not having to modify them.
You mention the light output of the Canadian lights and having to angle them to better align with the factory set. Question for you... Did you reverse the wiring to them to have them on high beams full time? I noticed the low beam output was very weak. The alignment isn't too off with the set I installed and having the Canadian lights on high beam, they produce better lighting.

When I ordered the CH units from SSO, they were shipped modifed with the LED bulbs already installed, so I went ahead and drilled the outer auxiliary headlights, but I did contact SSO about getting the screw-on bulb adapters in case I ever want to use a conventionally mounted bulb.
At the time I bought them (late 2015, IIRC), I don't remember seeing anything about switching the wires, so maybe I should try shimming the CH units and try flipping the wires so they are High beams. Easier and cheaper than switching to the factory Canadian units.
DDMTuning (DDM Tuning: HID and LED Lighting) offers both HID and LED headlight bulbs as well as projector units. They claim their 35W HID and LED bulbs put out as much light as stock headlight bulbs at reduced current load. The only potential drawback to DDMTuning is they used to drop ship produce from China, adding a slight delay, but I don't know if they still do that or not. They offer quality products with decent warranties.

Quote from MBMedic

I have the "True Canadian" headlight system. Just outside lights, nothing in the center.

I installed the H3 LED lights from Slingmods and have the Alpha LED grill mounted light.

I do a lot of night driving, and this setup gives me lots of lighting. Low beams give me lots of vision and into the ditches well enough, but highs with the grill light and I have more than I know what to do with. I posted pics here somewhere on a similar thread to compair, but I am too tired to find them for you.

However, Coles notes, I get full vision in front of the Sling with reflective surfaces showing up at the 1/2 mile mark

Display More

Sounds great, so I may need to just try that route.
I forgot to also mention that, while I am pleased with my Center headlights output, I have considered trimming the nose piece to remove the part of it immediately in front of the Center headlights that I feel deflects part of the headlight output.

I, too, have the Slingshotonly Canadian headlight kit on my 2015 Base Slingshot and have been less than impressed with the light output. I also have the 6-piece Slingshotonly LED bulb set and was disappointed in that the headlight housings for the CH units as well as the outer auxiliary headlights had to be drilled out to install the aftermarket LED bulbs. I would have preferred LED bulbs that simply fit properly into the H3 mounts.
My main complaint about the CH light output is because of the aiming mechanism Polaris chose for the outer headlight brackets making it a PITA to get the CH lights aimed to match the Center headlights while keeping the outer auxiliary headlights properly aimed. AS currently set up, with the outer auxiliary headlights properly aimed, the CH units are basically aimed down at the ground a short distance in front of the Slingshot.
I'm thinking about trying top use some washers and longer mounting screws (if needed) to shim the CH units to better align their output with the outer auxiliary headlights. It would be nice if I could find some small washers of varying thicknesses to hopefully make it easier to adjust the CH aim-point.
I'm also wondering if replacing the aftermarket CH units with Polaris CH units might provide better light output since they were actually designed to properly function as dual-beam headlights. I just haven't decided f I want to spend the money to find out if the Polaris units work better.
Between the 2 options, obviously, using washers to try and shim the CH units to better align and aim them with the outer auxiliary headlights will be significantly cheaper than buying all new replacement headlights.

I was surprised to read abut this, so I did a Google Search for gas vehicle exhaust scent - search?ei=rg3ZWu_dEYebsgGExaHIBg&q=gas vehicle exhaust scent

Anmd here is the perfect scent to help attract your local LEO!
- 322445342858?

Didn't that pic need to be BIGGER?!