I am ready to roll. I can't wait to get there. I will be rolling in on Tuesday around 3
Posts by rabtech
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I bet most have noticed they little numbers that just keep climbing on the topic tabs. That is telling you how many unread items are in each area.
If you want to MARK ALL THREADS AS READ and reset this so that you can stay on top of all the new post and articles just go to whatever section that you want to perform this action and hit the little checkmark in the upper right hand corner. Remember you will have to do it in each section that you want to reset.
Here is a picture of the place to click to MARK ALL READ.
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First let me explain that this isn't where members need to (START) if they want to show off their build. They will need to create a Blog. Click Here to get to the blog section and get started. It's just like making a post so no-one should have any issues. It will give you the freedom as a member to do what you want without having to worry about anyone contaminating it with their post. ONCE YOU HAVE A BLOG STARTED please send a message to a Staff Member and we will create the thread here and get you setup to moderate your thread.... Please give us a little time to get you setup. You will see the thread appear once its complete.
The first post in a members build thread will be a link to their individual blogs... It can not be edited or changed it will be a strict link to that members blog page. The following posts made can be from anyone. However, I will give the individual owner of that thread the ability to delete any post under it that he or she feels isn't appropriate for that thread.
I would recommend anyone that has a build thread go ahead and EDIT the post I made made in your area with the Link to your blog. Put in any extra content you want... ALSO you can create a thread anytime and mark it as another STICKY so that it is always under the first post.
If any of the owners of a build thread need help please contact me Staff Member and i'll get back to you as quick as possible.
REMEMBER, as a build section owner you have the power to delete and modify any post UNDER YOUR section. Be nice and be fair. Thanks...
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First let me explain that this isn't where members need to (START) if they want to show off their build. They will need to create a Blog. Click Here to get to the blog section and get started. Its just like making a post so no-one should have any issues with that. It will give you the freedom as a member to do what you want without having to worry about anyone contaminating it with their post. ONCE YOU HAVE A BLOG STARTED please send a message to a Staff Member and we will create the thread here and get you setup to moderate that thread.... Please give us a little time to get that setup. You will see the thread appear once its complete.
This is the place where you will find threads with links to those member's build Blogs. That way members can show off their builds. The first post in a members build thread will be a link to their individual blogs... It can not be edited or changed it will be a strict link to that members blog page. The following posts made can be from anyone. However, I will give the individual owner of that thread the ability to delete any post under it that he or she feels isn't appropriate for that thread.
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Yours may be but mine is not.. I made it clear that I would NOT delete my threads, I just want the ability to edit the wording if something ever came up and needed to be changed a bit.
6000 post of detailed "how to" info is a lot to never be able to correct from time to time...
I would love to have my edit buttons back.
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That is one clean garage... Was that a seafood fest?
Brother in law has a garage that they hang out at. I went over one afternoon and they had that all cooked up.... It was great,,,, The corn and potatoes that was boiled in the same water about burned my lips off with the spices.. They must act as big sponges and pull all the spice into them,...
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Here are Three Pictures you did not put in
slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/1087/
..................................................... tom n carolTom I didn't miss that weird watermelon picture. That is one i can live without,,,,
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already got my 2 subs and amp..did you dremel out the pods or some other tool?
also, did you have to make any modifications to the inside of the pod or did you just make the hole bigger?
and last question.. did those speakers come with grills or did you just leave them open like that?
I have to run a small 1/2" front spacer on the JL C2 series and the current Fosgates. Just on the 6.5". And no the Fosgate speakers do not have a girl. However I do have plenty of grills i just like them open. I have a few more new sets of JL, Memphis, and Fosgate if something should happen to one of these. You just have to take a Dremel and open the 2.5 hole up all the way out to the edge of where if lips back into the recess. And the 6.5 will just need a 1/2" spacer to bring it out just a bit.. I run a bridged JL M400 to the two pods and couldn't be happier. I also have a set of MB Quart tweeters in the pods. Now that I added the positionable PR Memphis tweeters in front of the gear shift. Its about as clear and loud and it could possibly be.
I would highly recommend taking the speaker pods apart... It quick and easy and will let you keep it all clean inside. Make sure you pull the crossover out and put it in a vice and twist the handle till you cant see the crossover anymore.....
I have 2 JL 12" W3 speakers that I have thought about switching to. But everytime I look at the door and what would be involved I find something easier to do.
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Maybe some Subs and a few amps
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grind that hole out and put a 4" in its place.....and a 6.5 in the other hole
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JUST HANG IN THERE ILL GET THESE SORTED OUT LATER>>>
I BET YSOME OF YOU HAVE SEEN THESE BEFOR
E
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Pictures soon to be made into a thread
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if your looking at this post and wondering what the he!! is wrong then let me explain.... As its referred to here.... The dark side has my original post. And I have pulled some of the content over here. Some rainy day I will have time to fix all the pictures and put them in order... So far I just haven't had time... I think most people that look at this thread can see the pictures and get the info they need....
I JUST WANTED TO MAKE SURE I HAD A FEW PLACEHOLDERS TO GET MY THREE THREADS REPLACED I WILL GET THEM CLEANED UP HERE SOON.
Here are pictures of the preparation. Ill post them as I go. I will go back and put some notes on each picture later.
1. Starting off I removed the hood buy removing the two bolts on each side. I also jacked the front up and placed jack stands under it and removed the wheels.
2. I removed the (3) 10mm Bolts holding the air cleaner box and loosened the flat head on the throttle body. Also unplugged the hose front the top of the valve cover and disconnect the air temp sensor. You can remove the assembly now. Make sure you put a cover over the throttle body.
3. Another view of it removed.
4. Now its time to remove the wheel splash panels. You might as well get a T30 and a T25 and get ready to use them a bunch. Most are T-30 screws. I actually removed to many screws. You only need to remove the 4 front bolts. The other 4 just remove the darker black part from the main piece. Also there is a pop rivet behind the panel that needs to be removed. And there is one bolt on top where the dash connects.
5. This is just another view of the whole panel. Notice I removed the windshield and the mirror, It just makes everything safer. And you won't bump your head on the mirror when sitting on the floor. And as a bonus it makes it easier to lay tools on the dash....
6. And a view with it removed.
7. Here is the part that baffled me for a while. I removed the seat because it was easier for me to figure it out. There is several screws that hold the panel on that are in the floorboard. There is also one in the back area of the seat that is hid. You will have to pull the panel outward to get to it. You will think your going to break it to revel the last back screw.
[8. This is just a close up of what you will be seeing once the panel is off. Just a heavy muffler.
9. Here are the three bolts that hold the muffler to the manifold. I didn't remove and spring at the is point. I just backed the three out and the muffler just eased downward. Once all three were out it was easy to remove the springs and set the muffler out.
10. Once the muffler is out of the way you can easily see where the hole is that needs a rock guard installed. I have mine ready to bolt on.
11. This is just a detailed shot after the muffler is removed.
12. Here you will see the 13mm nuts to be removed so that the exhaust manifold can be removed. Make sure you unplug the O2 sensor also.
13. A view without the exhaust manifold. Looking a lot cleaner under the hood....
14. Another shot of the area with all the exhaust components removed.
15. The front clip need to be removed for easier access. There is (2) 13mm bolts and (2) 8mm bolts that have to be backed out. Have someone there to slide the front bumper off.
16. Remove the black air scoop. It is a challenge to remove these simple plastic pop rivets. You can get to the back side of all of them so just pop the center back thru the face of them. Much easier than trying to pull them out with a flat head screwdriver. I think there is (6) you have to remove.
17. Not sure about stage 1. However on stage 2 it was recommended to change the plugs out. You will need to unplug all four coils and remove the 10mm bolt on each one. I put each coil back in where they come out originally. I don't figure it matters but that is just what I do.
18. Here is another stage 2 item that has to be changed. You will need to remove the (2) 10mm bolts that hold the fuel rail in. Unplug the plug above it and pull the rail and injectors gently out of the intake.
19. You can now gently flip over the rail to expose the injectors and the clips that hold them to the rail. You can also unplug the wiring connector to each on.
20, Just wanted remind to keep the engine ports covered up till something is bolted back to them.
21. This pan was a bigger to remove. I had to take the nuts off the transmission mount and the engine mounts. I jacked the engine up just enough to get the pan to slide out. I know some people would have put grease on the drill bit and trusted that no shavings fell into the pan. But I just can't sleep knowing there was a shaving down in the pan
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Sadly I had a thread once upon a time showing all the steps of lifting the engine and removing the pan. And even grinding the rib on the outside of the pan for more streamlined way to put the pan back on...
Let me see if I can get you some pictures posted of some of the items to remove...
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At least they just crawl around .....
We have these suckers who set up their near invisible webs at night between trees....doorways....any open area where they can hang out waiting for you to walk right into them at face level ........That should sufficiently creep out @rabtech
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Yep that did it... I am fully creeped out!
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He wants you to go to the bathroom with him.
God that was a funny story!!!
Man you just don't know how bad spiders bother me. And that was the first thing I thought about when that paw bumped my legI had a Python when I was in high school and snakes have never bothered me. But a spider just sucks ass. I haaaaatttteeee them.
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My daughter's cat wants me to pet him I guess. He is trying to unplug my laptop. And he doesn't even seem like he cares about the forum
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no he has a 1.5" hub spacer. you bolt it on and then use another set of holes to mount the wheels to the spacer
I'm guessing
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OK here are two ways to display the unread items... From the dashboard page click the Unread Threads word.
Here is the second way. From the Forums tab Click the Unread Post word. Let me know how this works...