Posts by jluna317

    Nitto and Toyo are owned by the same companies either one is a good tire nittos seem a little harder for me to get around my area so I run toyo/pirellis . Running pirelli on rear and it's a pretty nice tire sticks pretty good little pricey about 350 I believe, it's a 305, and toyo proxies in front which I like better then the pirellis in the front. Probably because I have more side wall on the proxies But also recently purchased a r888 for the rear and that will be a 315 that tire is also pretty pricey for he rear but recently discountined and replaced with the r888r.

    Ya the drive and handling 22"s in the front are not gonna be so helpfully if you like to drive hard specially cornering but if you just cruising they should be fine. that's a four inch difference from stock in the front maybe some one running 22s will chime in.another thing to worry about is will it affect an mods down the road for example if you went that big and liked the welter dual exhaust that exits out the back you wouldn't be able to install it because you would have serious rubbing issues probably wouldn't be able to make the clearance there guys with 20's In the rear and they have rubbing issues. Just throwing hat out there

    Timing chain ,balance chain ,all new guides and tensioners the balance chain tensioner was shot was. also switched over to mobile one.i think the t6 rotella may have been one of the issues. Maybe it was ok to use at lower boost. But I think it's to heavy for my setup especially once it starts to get some miles on the oil. That's what was suggested I use. It's close to the same oil I use in my 2500 Gmc denali I questioned it when I was told nut hey I figured they knew something I didn't.

    Engine finally sounds normal drove about 200 miles from mass to lake George and everything sounds and feels a lot better let me know what u guys think

    Wondering who's up here at lake George or if you plan on showing . I'm hear I arrived sound 11 not staying at host hotel but stopped by and saw one red sling with a top in the parking lot ? Who are you if you are a forum member

    @Dave@DDMWorks yes all guides and chains were new everything was but the balance chain tensioner literally shit the bed when i pulled the timing chain cover you could see it immediately it was stuck as and you could see chain basically resting on the block @iNewton
    I will try to get all the specs and post them.but we scoped the motor out and didn't see any damage. The bushing play i thought I had was bad info on my part everything was solid up and down it was side to side play and it's slight which I was informed is normal . But I'm not an engine builder so you tell me. also on the crakced sprark plugs, I have a mean back fire if I rev the motor close to red line only at idle not with load on motor. Maybe did it once to many times and I know it's bad for motor but it scares the shit outta of people when they hear it. Maybe that could be my issue with the cracked plugs. I mean I had swapped them and drove about 30 miles on them before I decided to do the chain I checked them again today and they are just fine.i do have boost gauge installed been meaning to get an oil pressure gauge installed. Will probably get it done in the next few couple weeks

    @TravAZ not exactly sure about the cracked porcelain on the 2nd and 3rd spark plugs maybe over tightening. I just finished up the timing chain and balance chain all new guides and tensioners and of course the new torque to yield bolts I honesty think the oil I was running might have been an issue as well @TravAZ what are u running gonna fire up tomorrow and i guess what's I'll post new video of how motor sounds. But I'm pretty sure the balance chain tensioner was the problem there was no pressure from the tensioner completely wrecked and thinking the heavier thicker oil made everything work a lot harder. Balance chain is also what makes the sprocket for oil pump

    well @iNewton goin with ur advice we took better look at the motor and realized play in the bearing was normal I blew the balance chain tensioner had to take timing chain cover off and there it was balance chaim was slacked and tensioner is crap gonna do timing chain and balance chain over just incase the chains stretched I think I will be fine after this. Cylinders and rods look good thanks a bunch for the help fixing this as we speak and will post with updates

    @iNewton alpha had motor built by local engine builder and I wasn't the only motor there were I beleieve 5 others at the same time I believe I'm the only one having issues. Trust me you are being very helpful no way I could say your being a dick. I'm pulling this thing in a couple weeks and I'm goin to restart.

    @Slingrazor yes I'm getting some support from builder we're just hoping it's not worst then it is but I think we caught it on time. If not I'm sure builder will assist with making it right

    @iNewton I pulled oil pan and wiggled each rod 1 and 4 were fairly tight 2 and 3 had play.i also had 2 cracked spark plugs in these cylinders I can make this thing back fire like crazy. Serious flame if I step on it. Like gunshot loud back fire. pistons 2 and 3 are seeing a lot more boost and pressure then the other 2 pistons I blame this on the shitty intake manifold which I'm replacing.im running green and yellow spring seeing about 13-14 psi with creep. My tune is so rich I still haven't had issues with showing signs of leaning out at all and I'm still at factory fuel system at wot I still see into the 9s for afr but no point on shipping ecu to bob to have it come back same way already did that. So in process of swapping to standalone. I also did t see or haven't seen any abnormal material in oil or plug just normal very fine shavings. Nothing I haven't seen from a normal oil change

    So tensioner did help with some of the sound but still wasn't happy.so removed oil pan and wouldn't you know play in the rods mainly 2 and 3 and I could hear the sound I been chasing . Now the question is did I damage cylinders or score them ? I dont ever see any smoke from exhaust. I'll be doing the bearings in the morning just gonna do them from underneath I don't see there being an issue with that, unless someone else knows a reason. Not to. Honestly not even bothered about having to do another last minute job just excited that I finally found where this noise was coming from. Only thing I really want to know is what could have cause the bearing failure ?with a motor that's only like 5 months old and with about 5k miles

    I was just getting in to my freshman year of high school on my way to gym I remember catching a glimpse of what was going on on a tv in the cafeteria had to cut threw to get to gymnasium. also one of the pilots from one of the planes was from dracut ma, which is about 10 minutes from me. he owned a farm and his family still runs it. they have a local memorial for him with a steel beam from one of the towers.

    So sounds a lot better after installing tensioner @TravAZ and @iNewton i still feel like there may be something there which could now be piston slap the other slapping sound is gone let me know what you guys think my opinion looks like I'll be doing some motor work soon or maybe doing the whole motor over and if that's the case I think I'm gonna wait for the Honda conversion to be released maybe @oneshot almost has it done

    Well getting mixed opinions I spoke to a local guy who's been doin this for a while and he recently had to do a tensioner on a cobalt he said to just try the tentioner of it goes away then fixed but if not something worst and if I already did damage anything then it's not gonna hurt anything else right so, tensioner swapped and slack gone now to reinstall valve cover and see if that was the trick