Posts by rayw123

I had that same issue when I purchased a 2016 1/2 sl drove me nuts I fixed the play by following the steering shaft to the place it joined the lower shaft (about 1/2 way down from the steering wheel and where it joined and slipped over the lower shaft found a set screw with lock nut but when I moved the set screw it didn't go through or touch the other shaft so I took a drill bit ground the tip so as not to drill deep into the inner shaft, drilled down to it and place a ball bearing into the hole touching the inner shaft tighten the set screw against the inner shaft totally fixed the problem of play and still have the safety of in a crash the steering should collapse inward thinking ball bearing will give under extreme pressure although not proven (never crashed!) totally fixed the extra play created due to a stamped shaft sliding over a machined shaft with controlled dimensions (Polaris saving money?) anyway fixed my problem have to add not responsible for any experiment or alteration you choose to do just know it works great for me and never had to readjust set screw or lock nut wrote to Polaris with no response and every time I did recalls they would remove my pallbearing and give me my excessive play back? I simplify would reinstall the bearing and tighten my steering back up since 2016. feel free to contact me at rayw123@netzero.net

I usually heat the finished part after paint with a propane torch wrinkles real fast and can control the shiny spots just slow down for more heat, careful not to burn. Duplicate the movement of a spray gun with the torch.

I have a 16.5 it has a metal plate above the push down latch, also when ever I open or close it I nurse it if someones around open it from both sides and I don't slam it down I keep a micro rag and push over the latches it's a large area with out (in my opinion) good support.
I'm sure the staples will control any further cracking, I think I would reinforce with fiberglass maybe glass a piece of metal under the glass and spring for that lift kit matter of fact based on your experience I'm considering the kit from MeanSling. But the staples not only hold it together but without reinforcement will allow it to flex without cracking. No matter how you fix it or even get a new hood a lift kit is still a good idea. IMO...good luck.

I just repaired a tab on the left side near the brace that rubs on the plastic. The tab was flimsy and cracked half way through and ready to break after I repaired the brace and tried to install the fastener, I used a hot staple gun Astro Pneumatic tool company model 7600 109.00 on Amazon. It worked great the trick is to sink half way into the plastic with the hot staple and twist it then let it cool, remove tool cut excess staple with side cutter (supplied). Good visual on youtube. They use this a lot in boating repair, also used to repair plastic bumpers on cars,then they bondo over the cracks. Got a feeling I’ll be using this tool a lot!

I had no dead spot just 1/4 in play at the wheel with engine off (software?) which meant at 70 you were always corrective steering. The shaft going into the steering below was and is solid no play the steering wheel shaft would move on the stationary shaft you could actually see it rock back and forth giving me 1/4 play at the steering wheel while the other shaft remained stationary.

I had no need to jack it up I worked from the drivers side cockpit and followed the steering shaft down to the collar. again I drilled lightly so as not to damage the inner shaft. good luck.

I will but nothing changed on the outside still using the same 8mm set screw in the same collar that"s welded to the outer shaft. I'll see if I can get pic. for you...

I had the same issue got sick of it, was told by dealer 1/4 in. play was within spec but shop manual clearly states "0" play . this is what I did, inside and following the steering shaft down from the steering wheel is a collar welded to the outer shaft (don't know why?) with a set screw 8mm, the set screw does nothing it's not drilled through I drilled mine through the outer shaft only drill lightly and but a small bearing in the hole and tighten the set screw against the bearing pushing the top of the flats together have solid steering no play I'm sure in a collision the roller bearing (1) I put in the hole I drilled will give. Of course not responsible for your result but very happy with my steering now. I can set cruze and set back. again assume no responsibility. Just know it works for me.