Best bet as it was melted by the fuse is more damage could have been caused. I would start tracing the ignition wiring in general. Never a fun thing to do but I would start there.
Definitely not a fun thing to do. That was my best guess as well but didn't want to accept the fact that was what i was going to have to do next. Just some a time consuming and tedious process. But I guess that's my next step.
Yes but from your post it appears you still have problems..
Yes most definitely do. That's what doesn't make sense to me is how doing nothing more than adding a fuse that is of the correct amperage and a fuse holder designed to hold the current draw on it would make it to where the ignition position no longer works. Like I said it's like the key cylinder now has 2 acc positions everything acts exactly the same no matter which position the key is in.
It's only been sitting about a month now, I work full time and don't have a lot of time to work on it. Just kind of work on it in my spare time at the moment. I only did my own repair on the fuse block because it was a simple fix to a basic problem, plus like i mentioned I have a background in electronics work. Plus there isn't a dealer very close to my home. So for something that simple I just chose to fix it myself.
I have a 2015 SS that is literally a sitting dust collector right now. So the start of everything started when the radio stopped working, the instrument cluster no longer worked and the power steering quit. I looked into it a little bit and found out about the fuse issue on the 2015's. Checked mine and sure enough the fuse was starting to melt to the point I had trouble pulling it out the first time. Did some research on how Polaris recommended fixing it, and having a significant amount of electrical experience decided to fix the issue myself. So I bypassed the fuse block that came stock only the one that was having problems and added my own fuse holder and fuse of the same amperage. Turned the key on and radio lights up and so does instrument cluster. But i noticed when I turned the key to ignition all the DTC lights light up go out, the speedometer and tachometer cycle and then all the DTC lights come back on. So even in the ignition position on the key switch it acts like the key is in accessory position. No headlights, no horn and it doesn't attempt to turn over the starter. No fuel pump engaging, no power to the ignition fuse under the hood. So i thought maybe it was the ECM as they are very prone to issues. After contacting Polaris they finally sent me a new one, supposedly ready to plug and play but after installing this one. Same issue with it acting like it's not in ignition position. It still cranked fine before changing out the burnt fuse in the fuse box. Checked the battery I have well over 12V even with the key on under a load. Replaced the ground at the battery with a new cable, new hot and ground posts on battery. Removed and cleaned the ground point on the frame at the battery. I am stumped please somebody give me another direction to go in to try and figure this out. ANY help would be appreciated.
