Posts by McClendons

  • madstadt stinger ?

    Very quality top. Not bad to install. Takes a little getting used to opening and closing top. Get the center console with lights. Takes one cup holder, the add on new one is ok. Works great in fl sun. I live at Beach, you will get some light rust on metal. Recommend lithium grease on the rods for the panels and the pins. I tried wd 40 on install, and nearly could not get them out. Like the fact you can remove one or both panels easily. No front frame. Would buy again, no doubt. Sorry for bullets, 56 and texting....


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

  • SSVWorks headrest speaker boxes

    Think I have it now, in that case you will run two new sets of RCA cables (from the grey and the black) to the new amp, and then wire all speakers except sub (including current) to the new amp. The current speakers should be the front amp output, and the new headrest to the rear....with that, you have fade through the CMS5. The sub should be left as wired.


    It sounds like currently you have the CMS5 amp running the current speakers (minus amp) since you say three remains RCAs. If you just hook the new amps to headrest speakers and keep the CMS 5 internal amp, the balance will be way off.

  • SSVWorks headrest speaker boxes

    VShot, The only nuance to above, and I probably dove deeper into it than needed....


    Are the current speakers wired to the CMS5's internal amp (it has frt and rear speaker outs), or a separate amp like the sub is? This is important for 2 reasons. First, how current preamp outs on the CMS 5 are used (it has 1 sub, 4 main (frt/rear 2 each), and 2 for a 2nd zone. Most important though: If current speakers are wired to the internal CMS5 clarion amp, and you add an amp for the rear headrest speakers, you will not hear the current speakers at all (practically).


    The internal amp in stereos are typically underpowered, and the CMS 5 is no exception. They give them high ratings, but not really true. The ratings used on separate amps are much more realistic, with exception of crap amps.


    If you are buying the 4 channel amp you mention, there is no doubt it will work. The question becomes how you wire it given current set up. Could mean rewiring what you have now for best sound if you are now using the amp in the CMS5 itself. If the case, if you post what you have now (equipment type and speakers type) it is easy to draw a schematic of how to best wire it with new speakers/amp. Many on board can help sketch it out if needed.


    What I found on mine: It is key you have control of balance, because the rear headrest speakers are right in your ears. Also, I tried some simple tweeters off of the the internal CMS5 amp, useless as I mentioned above, and tweeters do not need allot of power.


    Sorry if I was confusing before, I just learned by trail and error, easiest to wire right the first time. TheRocks comments about using 1 amp for all main speakers though is most straight forward.......

  • SSVWorks headrest speaker boxes

    Shot,


    I believe what you are saying is you have 4 speakers (maybe with 2 tweeters or 2 subs) currently wired to the amp in the CMS5, and the subwoofer separate amp. If correct then below......sorry if not..


    There are a few variables. The sub amp could be wired to the CMS 5 pre amp output, or could be using 1 set of two main preamp outs ( a front and a rear) from the main CMS5. Either way, assuming my first statement is correct, you should have AT LEAST one set of preamp outs remaining. You will also have a second "Zone", an artifact of the CMS5 being marine. The Zone is so that you could use speakers outside the boot, and inside, and control levels separately.


    As for buying a single channel amp and wiring both headrest speakers to it, I strongly recommend against it. Single channels amps are for subwoofers in base applications.


    This said, the clarion amp you have pictured is a 4 channel amp, which is good. You would use 2 of the channels (one right, one left) to wire to the headrest speakers. Ideally, you would use the other channel to run to the "front" speakers. What I do not know is the impedance rating of the front speakers, and it is key since you have 2 "fronts" per channel. To work, you would have to wire the two fronts (per channel) in parallel, and connect to the remaining clarion amp channel. That will present 2 Ohms to the amp. Alternately, you could only connect the new clarion amp to 2 of the front speakers you mention.


    I know above sounds confusing, but it does get somewhat complex with multiple amps and many speakers. to be as simple as I can.


    I would do following:
    I would use the CMS5 subwoofer line outs (purple) and connect to your sub amp.
    I would use the Grey line outs and connect to the Front left/right of the new Clarion 4 channel amp (The 410you have shown, not the equivalent of the sub amp). This front speaker outputs of the amp would be wired in parallel to the two front speaker on each side. Parallel meaning the speaker plus goes to plus on second speaker then plus on Amp. Vice versa for negative.
    I would use the black preamp outs to the rear channel of the new amp, and wire that to the headrest speakers. You will found the headrest speakers appear much louder, so will need to work with front/rear fade.


    Above is how I have mine, works pretty well although I am using a JL Audio AMP.


    You do mention 6 speakers now...not sure what those are unless two are tweeters.


    If my first assumption is wrong, and you have a sub amp PLUS an external amp, you may be able to still make it work. If the case, I could look at the amp specs and see if it allows a 2 channel input into the amp, with 4 channels out -- likely does. If so, you would set front amp in that fashion using the front preamps, then use the rear for the new amp (and in this case you would only need a 2 channel for the 3 read headrest speakers.


    If you let us know what speakers you have now, and what amps, could likely draw out a diagram. Need to know speaker make/model and where, amp(s) make/model, and could suggest from there.

  • Oem speaker wiring diagram?

    Shanty man, hard to diagnose over the net, the fact you can hear it likely means power and remote work. A few thing to look at 1. Rca cables bad, it does happen 2.does amp have setting for input (there are 3V, much lower was the old norm, and speaker). Could be set on 3V and your box is putting lower preamp and 3) gain, make sure it is not way down. The amp likely has a gain, and if using a converter, it might. Finally could be a bad amp or converter..


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Polaris Slingshot Info mobile app

  • Swing arm recall with Corbin bags

    Has anyone had the recall done with Corbin bags? Will have mine done in a couple of weeks, and trying to determine if I will need to pull bags off.


    I do not think I need to, but dealer emphasized they would charge me if they do it, but more concerned they would not put back on in correct order....
    Thanks

  • Is it Easy to STEAL a Slingshot?

    Quote from tigershark

    If you are veteran or a relative of a veteran look into USAA. They have been great to us on the rates. As far as getting it stolen I agree with the other users as it can get taken by any douche bag with a trailer. Luckily nothing notorious has happened to mine.

    Unfortunately USAA will not insure motorcycles anymore (at least in FL). They sub to progressive (sub may not be right word). I had progressive direct, and was forced to go through USAA so I could get an umbrella policy. My price went up.......


    Not the fan of USAA that I was thirty years ago.


    If somehow you do have USAA for the sling, would love to know how. My gut says you may live in a state that considers the sling a car.....but hope their is an option.


    Thanks

  • SSVWorks headrest speaker boxes

    Think I may be tracking the issue now. You may be using too small a screw driver. Make sure the tip fits perfectly in the screw, and use one with the largest handle you can find. It sounds unbelievable, but it you try to get any torque out of a small handle driver, you will fail.


    When I did mine, I was using a smaller craftsman driver (I believe a number 1) with a small handle. I could not get it to work. Changed quickly to a larger one, #2 or 3, biggest that fit well, and it was easy.


    Also not, as soon as you get the "bite", one or two turns and it will get much easier. The screw is just making the hole slightly larger for a perfect fit.


    I would advise against a power driver. Too easy to strip the screw heads if the bit is not perfect. Larger driver handle will solve issue, I know it sounds stupid....

  • SSVWorks headrest speaker boxes

    I used the screws from the enclosure vice the ones with speakers. There is no reason to not use shorter ones. The screws, when fully installed, should stick a little out the back. At least a quarter to half inch, a little more is ok but does not help with grip.


    My screws were longer than I mention above, but I had no issue with them not seating.

  • Amp input question

    The way you describe is the correct way, use either a Volt meter or test light . A fuse is optional as that circuit is already fused in the main fuse block, but if running wire a long way could be an option. I likely would not in that case, but defer to others. Not though, if you run ANYTHING to the battery, specifically anything not already fused, you MUST use a fuse. I would assume your amp will go to the battery, and if so the amp power wire MUST have a fuse.

  • Amp input question

    If you tie the remote amp wire to the ACC/Ignition (Red), the amp will turn on anytime the slingshot is turned on. It will be on even if the radio is off, but will shutoff with the ignition. You can verify this once wired as most amps have a green light when on, cycle it.

  • SSVWorks headrest speaker boxes

    Allot of great info above...it is very easy to wire in one of those amps, especially if you buy one with line level ins (no converter needed, advise this approach). Nearly nothing you can do wrong on speaker wiring, just keep positive to positive etc. If you have one speaker positive to pos, and the other pos to neg, nothing bad happens, but sound is degraded.


    One big thing, wire the amp and the ground as close to directly to the battery is possible. If you do the ground elsewhere, MAKE sure it is a very good ground. An poor grounding, and you get a ground loop....a whine that varies with engine speed.


    I'd never installed an AMP when I did my first one, only hard lesson I learned was the grounding issue....