Posts by TravAZ

  • The truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth about my last couple of months with my new turbo

    Might need to clarify. When I said "supercharger owners - nothing to see here", I was referring to lugging or loading the engine at low RPMs.


    The supercharger setup is belt driven and won't make considerable boost at low RPMs, so you don't really have to worry like a turbo setup.

    Overall, using your cruise is perfectly fine. But sometimes with big jumps in CC resume and climbing inclines in 5th gear, you'll feel the motor shake/vibrate. This type of low RPM load should be avoided. It is unnecessary stress and with the wrong fuel, plugs, tune, etc., you could blow your motor.

  • The truth, the whole truth, and nothing but the truth about my last couple of months with my new turbo

    Quote from BKL

    Initially, I was considering the drilling and tapping route, although I had some concerns, especially after other folks had also expressed their concerns. I was briefly considering a local builder recommended by Hahn who uses the drilling and tapping route because it saves them time, but since I have already ordered the modded pan and it uses different fittings than the drill & tap method, I think I'll just do the pan swap. While it will take a little more time, I've found some relatively clear directions for easing the pan out w/o removing the entire motor and feel comfortable doing that. I must admit that I was a little tempted to save the time, but if I screwed up and ended up breaking my motor, I definitely wouldn't be very happy.
    Your comment about not flooring it in a higher gear makes me wonder about using the Cruise Control to Resume speed when in 5th gear. I wonder if that can create enough boost to cause problems. The engine doesn't lug when I do this now, but I wonder if I should minimize using the CC/Resume feature once I go boosted.

    You are correct in your logic about CC Resume. If you had the cruise set at let's say 80mph and you push resume at 60mph, you will make enough boost to put unwanted low RPM load on the motor. It's just a good habit to get away from. Passing should happen in 3rd and 4th gear and turbo users should be more concerned about low RPM boost load than running their machine towards the redline.

    Many people have commented on feeling a vibration or shake during low RPM acceleration. That is the load you are trying to avoid. Treat 5th truly as an overdrive. Best for cruising gas mileage and for acceleration speeds over 100mph.

    Supercharger people - nothing to see here. [/b]

  • Not a Sunday Funday!

    Good news on the free tow. I'm sure you'll be pumped to get a built motor!

    A couple things I firmly believe in if you are going to run a turbo...

    Get and install a good AFR and Boost gauge; even better if you can log info.

    Dont build a bunch of boost in 4th or 5th gear at lower RPMs. These engines don't seem to like this "lugging". Downshift if you want the power. Keep the RPMs above 3400rpm when driving hard to stay on open loop tuning.

    Check your spark plugs once in awhile. They can tell you a lot about how your machine is running. I personally think heat range 5 plugs are too hot (not sure if anyone with Hahn kits run these) if you're running boost. Go with a 6 or 7 heat range.

    Just my observations over the couple of years. I'm sure the experts can chime in with more clarity.

  • Not a Sunday Funday!

    Thats a bummer..


    What gear were you in when you smashed the throttle? These motors don't seem to like boost down low in the RPM range.


    Do you have any way of knowing what your AFR and boost was before it blew?

  • Latest Track Video Up

    I apologize if I missed the thread for track videos.... Below is from this last weekend here in AZ at Wild Horse Pass.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rJrG5zF_FNE&feature=youtu.be

    Had a great time last weekend at the track and the quickness of the Slingshot continues to impress people. I am running in the middle group (speed) and there was only 1 car I couldn't keep up with. Those ZR1 Corvettes are pretty fast when they are on track tires. ;)

    I am asking other Slingshot owners to come out and join the fun. It is a great and affordable place to improve your driving skills and to go as fast as you would like without the worry of large tickets.

    Next event through ProAutosports AZ is Thanksgiving weekend (Fri - Sun). Click below for more details.
    http://www.proautosports.com/index.html


  • Need help! Assault Hub won't budge!

    Maybe my Assault puller is stronger. Should I send it so you can try it?!? ;) ha

  • AEM Gauge help PLEASE!!

    Courtesy of iNewton on his thread on the other forum. I went to the ECM and tapped the wire there. It was pretty easy and worked good for me.



    RPM Tap

    This one is tricky (thanks to @RABTECH for the how-to).
    In order to read RPM, we must tap a signal wire from a coil. We can tap it at the coil, or at the ECU. I prefer the ECU because less wire length means less signal noise and it make the job look better. In order to tap the wire, you will need to unplug the J2 connector from the ECU (the center one), and remove the cover. Be careful its very fragile. Then you will need to cut a good portion of the tape holding the wires together and the tie-wrap using an exacto. BE VERY CAREFUL TO NOT CUT ANY WIRES DOING THIS. Its best to use a new blade that is very sharp so that you don't have to push hard on the blade and cut something else. Take your time.


    The wire we are looking for is PIN1, its the white wire with a brown line on it:



    To tap the wire, you have 2 options:


    1)You can strip some part of the wire off, then roll the Green wire around the exposed wire and solder the wires together, then tape it up so that its sealed
    2)Use a wire tap (wire tap - Google Search)


    Both options will work, I personally used a wire tap with a plug so that it's easier to remove if I need to replace the gauge in the future:



    Once you have tapped the wire, use friction tape to bundle the wires back together (don't forget the thin tie-wrap), replace the cover and reconnect the plug to the ECU:

  • Need help! Assault Hub won't budge!

    The reason you are bending bolts and not being able to pop it off is because you are not getting the correct/needed leverage from the big puller. Shorter bolts and pulling straight off is what you need.

    I spent days with your exact problem and used a big puller and made a puller with the same results. Used a bunch of penetrating oil, soft hammered it the the left a couple of times, and used that Assault puller and it came right off.

    Up to you, but you know where a puller is if you decide on needing one.

  • Need help! Assault Hub won't budge!

    I fixed mine a long time ago and it is one of the reasons I'm not crazy for the Assault hub.

    The only way I was able to fix it was by getting an Assault Hub puller. I still have it and I'm more than happy to ship it to anyone if they ship it back when done and cover the shipping cost.

    What puller are you currently trying to use?

    Also used penetrating oil and a soft hammer to pound it left or right to make sure the splines were lined up correctly.

  • 2017 Slingshot Calendar

    Just a couple of notes / pointers if you are going to take pictures in hope of being featured in a calendar....


    1. Close shots don't usually work good. Most pictures have to be cropped to fit the correct format. Sling should look smaller in the picture, so you can crop hi-res photos to fit.


    2. Watch for shadows. Shadows in pictures are usually hard to edit out correctly. Sun above or over back shoulder is usually best.


    3. Usually people or other vehicles in photos doesn't work good. Exception would be models or Slings together with a picture taken from far away.


    4. Make sure the background is thought out. It, in many cases, is as important as the SS.


    5. Take hi-res photos. Must be over 5 megs in most cases. Low res photos don't edit or print correctly.

  • 2017 Slingshot Calendar

    I don't mind assisting in this project, as long as you all liked the last ones.

    We would have to agree on what pictures/people get each month and I would need good hi-res photos for editing.

    I would try to get a printer to help with the printing and possible distribution. It's very time consuming, as you can imagine.

    Maybe @Uglyrider954 could help with the printing and someone else could tackle distribution with me.

  • )) Good Boost vs. Bad Boost ((

    Careful on trying to determine what is "safe" boost by collecting info from other people. You will not be getting good/comparable info unless you find someone with the same setup. This is especially important when comparing early JohnV kits and people on very early tunes.


    Differences include...


    Boost reference point? (Turbo housing or manifold side?) Type of plugs? Inlet air temps? Etc. Etc...


    You need to find someone that has a kit just like yours that is experimenting with green springs and above. To my knowledge, nobody has been brave enough to do this on a stock motor; even with ARP headstuds.


    Maybe @WingShot will guinea pig for us...? ;)

  • motor cutting out

    Once you pay for the tune, he will re-flash it for $0. You just pay for shipping there and back.

    The stock ECM works really good unless you want to run over 15psi of boost and track days. It's a very capable ECM.

    Shoot me a note if you are having this issue and some AFR data and RPM range.

    I'll test a solution and we'll work to get a fix for everyone.

  • motor cutting out

    We will figure it out and it should be an easy fix. A couple of odd ball machines have this low rpm rich issue. The conditions you are experiencing are not hurting your machine.