March 10...please don't ask Jimmy how many times I called to bug him on ship dates
Jimmy has a rough job.
March 10...please don't ask Jimmy how many times I called to bug him on ship dates
Jimmy has a rough job.
Be careful!!!! Ill make MODERATOR someday and you all will be in trouble!! MUAHAHAHA!!!!
Shhh! You know good and well the gang still has fresh torches and sharp pitchforks.
I was just notified that my Stinger shipped today (thanks @Noel Hughes !) and hope to have it installed by this weekend.
I remember several excellent posts by @Cameron Roberts at 'the other place' on the top and how he was working to tweak it.
I just wanted to invite anyone with install or use advice to post as I get ready to put it up
Please feel free to post your Stinger pics as well!
Happy to walk you through it if you need it. You'll be fine!
now that is butt ugly, I thought your wife was better then that, must have been drunk when you posted the first time
You and I need to have a chat.
Feeling so fancy with a red intermediate tag!
Display MoreThanks, nice words coming from you
I'll list all the work and parts needed once I get it working again. The complicated part is the custom pistons because we are using the 2.2 rods. Le9 rods are uberexpensive so overall its less money to do it that way, but Wiseco wants to get lots of mesurements that need special tools to do (bore size to 0.001 inch, deck height to 0.001 inch and so on) so There has been some downtime waiting for those tools to ship. Lots of learning in this project.
once I get all the measurements done, the expense to actually do this is mostly time.
Porting the head has taken me over 30 hours to do, using a 100$ dremel and 100$ of sanding barels. I purchased a burr for my drill to take off the flash from the head, that cost 40$. The actual cost is not high if you do it yourself. Overall the head work will have cost me maybe 350$ max calculating the milllion towels, carb cleaner, valve removal tool, new valve seals etc. Not so bad.
If you only want to replace the pistons and rods, you don't need to do all this disasembly: once you have unbolted the head from the engine and taken off the head bolts and camshaft sprokets, reinstall the valve cover right away so nothing gets in the valve train, and keep the head facing down to remove gasket material from the metal. Once you are done, wrap the head in saran wrap so nothing get inside the oil and water passages. Then do the work for the rods and pistons, and reinstall the head back in its place.
Realistically replacing the Pistons and rods how much boost do you think it would handle? It might be worth it just to beef up this joker and not worry about blowing it.
That makes perfect sense. Good thing slings choke out in reverse or we would be in trouble!
steve and I will take 2 long island iced teas please..... and that'll do to start with.
Careful now. Last year a fair amount of shine happened to show up.
Naaaaaaaah ... they'll just be recording VIN numbers and voiding warranties ..........
................ .
.
Oh! Look at all your nice mods! I see you've a turbo. Well let me just take a quick note here and we're done! Good luck with that angle drive and needle bearing...
@Cameron Roberts I hope I didn't discourage you from attempting to wire your hood LED's yourself. I was just trying to explain why sometimes it's ok to add additional load to some circuits but not so much to others.
I don't know beans about lighting. I just figured the halos would be the proper spot.
EditEdit
- If your factory battery doesn't have enough juice or your cabling needs increased due to amp draw I might be able to hook you up. Wife and I had a small project today.
That cable would probably carry enough juice to power a few LEDs.
Polaris scared the doodies out of me with their drones on the dragon last year!!
I'm outsourcing.
That pretty much sums it up.
Okay so I should solder to the halo switch? Maybe this job should be outsourced
I'm over it. There was some direct communication with 4nines, but he basically said he was trying to figure out what happened. It wasn't a complicated situation.
I am also not too educated on electrical stuff either but if I was you I would run and connect the Jmod light wires to the same switch for the halo lights. Make the connection at the switch instead of splicing wires.
You can just wire them to the switch and that will power them as well?
I finished the jmod last night and would like to illuminate the new window. Is it possible to splice in to the halos so that the halos and the leds under the jmod would all come on together from one switch? I'm very uneducated when it comes to electrical applications.