Posts by mpj220

Quote from dcarhart

I hadn't thought about heated gear. I used to ride my BMW R100RT year round in Massachusetts as long as the roads were dry. Got a LOT of stares from people including one State Trooper I passed on the interstate going waaaay to fast when it was 15 degrees out. She gave me a look that said "I don't get paid enough to pull over the clinically insane"

I'll have to get another set for this year. a good way to extend the Maine driving season.

I live in Mass. Drove my sling through Dec 28 last year.

Used some heated seat covers plugged to the cig lighter.

Spring/Summer/Fall - drive it everyday if not raining.

I did go with shocks, swaybar, grease-able mounts. Just waiting on delivery.

I asked my wife about her seating position. She said the seat/position itself was comfortable. Here only complaint was leg-room. Do the seat relocation brackets effect leg room?

Mine is a 2017.

Bought it last year as a new leftover.

Around 7500 miles now.

My driving is mostly back-road enjoyment. Unfortunately, back roads here in New England generally come with potholes. Most of the time, I plan a route that has better roads but, there are plenty of times that I find some crap roads not by choice. Some unavoidable construction like a few weeks ago heading to Americade in NY. About 9 miles of Rt.30 in the Green Mountains of VT had no pavement.

Yesterday, I planned out a great 4 hour route but, had to cut short when my daughter began to feel ill. I let Waze pick the fastest route home. After some of the cow paths Waze brought me down, it was clear that shocks are priority before performance.

Looks like shocks first.

With the amount of driving I do, it makes more sense.

Anyone know if there are any show specials at Sling-o-Rama events?

We do have an event scheduled in Massachusetts. Unsure on the vendor list.

My first thought was to go with DDM Works shocks.

I have never heard a bad word about them.

I routinely do 8+ hour drives, stopping only for leg stretching and lunch, and (at 55 yrs) I feel pretty darn good at the end of the day with the stock suspension.

That's why I am leaning towards the ZZP package.

Trying to decide what to go with.

I have about a grand of "fun money".

My Sling is the Blue/Yellow

Current choice:

DDM Works shocks

or

ZZP Stage 1 (header, exhaust, cold ait intake, tune)

Leaning towards the ZZP package.

My Slingshot SL already has:

HID lighting

Upgraded stereo - Head Unit, SSV loop pods, two 10" subs, amp

Baker ripper wings

Louder horns

LED strip lighting

Powder Coated rims, other rim matching colors all over.

Hoping to find a paint match here too.

I am definitely in the market to replace my stock suspension.

The price looks great but...

There seems to be absolutely no honest review of these shocks (nor any dishonest review).

I don't want to shell out $600 to be the test pilot.

Strongly considering DDM Works coilovers. I do ride with a few people that swear by them. Maybe I will ask to swap Slings for a few miles so I can check the difference. Also probably wait until I hit a rally somewhere - rumor is they drop $100 on the price.

Relays will work in any position.

Standard relays are not waterproof so, mounting vertical allows water to shed off of the case.

I assume you want to have the new switch in the dash to control power to the heated gear.

Also, it would be advisable to have the ignition key switch kill power should you forget to shut the new dash switch.

This should be fairly easy.

The relay only draws around 100 milliamps.

You can easily tap power from the switched input to your radio.

Run that to your switch.

Other side of switch to pin 85.

Pin 86 to ground (any ground).

Pin 30 to a fuse then to constant 12 volt (aka battery post, or same location that powers your Neutrino). Fuse close to power source.

Pin 87 to your heated gear.

Michelle and I had to pass on Maggie Valley, kids are just not at a good age to be left alone during school days.

We have been out quite a few times over the past month between rain drops.

Our go to "around the block" is heading out to Clinton, then west on 62 out to Barre, then 122 south to 31 south. Take a left in Charlton and a few back roads home.

Its about a 3 hour drive but we stop at some antiques in Sterling and lunch somewhere.

Can't wait till we all start getting together. Always fun!

Matt was trying to talk me into the NY trip last week. If I had a roof, I would have done it but, with the morning rain and low temps..... I stayed home and waited. Ended up doing a slightly modified loop of above.

See you soon!

Peg,

You can't hide from other MA/NH members!

I also painted the belt guard yellow.

Got soooo board with all the rain, I painted my little license plate skull bolts. 4 coats of yellow, 2 coats of clear, and painted the eyes blue.

See, going overboard with a sling is a disease..... but you already know that

BTW,

Wait till you see my Sling.

I bought Matt's rims.

With all the rain lately, I have been going a little overboard with yellow paint to compliment the rims.

Mark

That one is a 24 vdc coil.

This relay is 12 vdc coil, and it is waterproof.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003…ZJBS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If the switches are rated at 20 amp, I would say go for the simple wiring. Be sure to fuse close to the power source.

If they are 15 amp rated and you are pulling 15 amps for long periods of time, the switch will likely heat up to the point of melting plastic.

A relay is nothing more than an electric switch. A standard automotive relay has contacts rated at 40 amps (pins 30 and 87). Mini-relays are usually 20 amp and there are heavy duty ones at 80 amp.

The pins to activate the relay are 85 and 86. Current draw here is usually about 100 miliamps.

You now have the option of what you want to switch to activate the relay.

I prefer switching ground.

Or,

If you want to control from Neutrino:

Slingmods doesn't publish the rated amps for the dash switches.

Judging from the type and size, my bet goes to 15 amp max.

No need to pull max amps through the switch.

Use the switch to switch a ground and a relay to power the heated gear.

Found an online graphic that shows this:

Or,

If you have the available space on the Neutrino and it is only a matter of reducing current , you can always use a Neutrino output to control the relay.

The relay could provide fused power directly from battery.

The above looks correct but....

Be sure that the switch is rated for well over the current draw you expect.

Personally, I like to use a relay and switch ground to activate the relay.

I found that Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter works better with plastic/abs/pvc, etc than primer.