Posts by Tango

  • Tires...what are you running?

    Quote from captcharles

    No worries. Thanks for the reply.


    The Discount Tire rep didn't help much. He suggested Michelin Sport Pilot. He did say that the tire is asymmetrical so he didn't know if that would work. I contacted Michelin and they said they do not have any tires for any 3 wheeler. Discount Tire rep then suggested something else and I got the idea he just wanted to sell me something he had. Ugh. Then he said Hankook EV12. I asked why and he said his buddy has them on his car and likes them. Some endorsement.


    Still looking.

    I run a Michelin Pilot Super Sport out back (315/35/20) and it is phenominal. Great traction and great wear (300 UTOG) - the downside is you get what you pay for.. this absolutely destroys the NITTO NT05 I was running in the same size.

  • Macaw Racing Build

    Great numbers and can't wait to hear the new exhaust!


    So I am curious - is it some sort of secret to how much boost you and Rab are running or did I miss that tidbit somewhere while looking at the sweet pics and watching the intense videos?

  • I knew it was strong. But not 510hp strong!

    Thanks for the reality check Rab. I don't want folks thinking that they can slap 25psi through their turbo setup and enjoy a 500hp daily driver they can thrash at the strip and track every weekend. Obviously if you intend to drive it like you are then it will last, otherwise stuff will break.

  • I knew it was strong. But not 510hp strong!

    There are several "failsafes" that are in play here and you have risk at each one. Having put 5,000 miles on my V8 I have noticed a few things.


    1. The tire: this is the first failsafe. Yes more power will make it spin but there are some measures you can take to get more grip - stickier tire, wider tire, softer rear spring, softer rebound setting, etc. I have several of theservice in place to get better grip. Don't assume that since you can spin the tire in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th with 260hp that 500hp is worthless.


    2. Belt slippage. This one is difficult to overcome because you don't want to over-tighten the belt. I have jammed on the gas at 50 mph and slipped the belt due to power. Sounds like the rear end is exploding. Better than the rear end actually exploding.


    3. Angle drive. The main weakness of the angle drive is the casing. The internals/gears aren't half bad. Hopefully there will be a fix for this in the near future ;) There could be better fluid dispersion but that's another topic.


    4. Drive shaft. I replaced mine and I suggest anyone considering high power levels do the same. They aren't terribly expensive or hard to get. A great piece of mind considering if the end disinigrates it is right next to you and your passenger's asses.


    5. Tranny: clutch and transmission will need to be upgraded significantly. My 5sp showed signs of wear after just 4,000 miles with the turbo and that was at 260-270hp. Ram 350-500 through it and look out. I believe DDM has a great clutch upgrade and you should just do factor the $$$ into the turbo upgrade.

  • Starter Help???

    Replace the starter relay. It's located in the fuse panel with the other relays and the spot is marked on the inside of the fuse cover. You can test by pulling the horn relay and replacing it with the starter relay (I believe they are all the same) and see if that fixes it. If so, buy another relay (or 6).


    I fried my headlight relay during the whole Polaris recall. They replaced the entire thing under warranty but it may have affected other relays that I had.


    My V8 was doing the exact same thing and after I replaced the relay it starts every time.

  • Alpha Supercharger Kit

    Congrats on Vada!


    As for supercharging, if I had to do everything over again (which is quite extensive) I would have stated with the supercharger.


    After driving all of them, including a supercharged one, it has the best "feel" to me. Plus you can still go wild on the exhaust side. ;)

  • Has anyone played around with this for paint?

    Meh, I wouldn't recommend it. I too have the pro paint kit and it won't be used again. I also used 7 coats like Rab and it will peel in places you touch, rub.


    The biggest problem to me is that you can't sand it. Think about that for a moment... any little mistake and you have to do the whole thing over again and the paint ain't cheap. To do it properly it would take about 50 cans of spray or buy the spray kit which is around $300 new. At $55 per gallon, you will need 4 gallons to do the colored parts of the sling. Mess the tail up and that will cost ya.


    Also, be careful if you paint where screws go through the body. I had a screw snag some of the dip that was in the hole and it ripped up the dip around the hole - the hole was 1/4" but it pulled up about the size of a quarter when the screw snagged it. Had to repaint the entire tail. That cost me.


    I'm going with real paint now. Just pulled all the dip off today - at least that was easy!


    Plastidip is good for wheels but it just has too many drawbacks to paint a whole car in my opinion.

  • Metricks new roof

    saw it in person and it looks cool. The frame isn't noticeable in person as much and the mirrors are a nice touch. The drivers lid has a window in it so you can see street lights - well thought out. All their products are quality and built beefy and this seems no different.


    It has a larger windshield which might appeal to a lot of folks too.


    Two thumbs up especially for the creativity and workmanship.