Posts by BKL

Here's what I posted on the other site based on CT's Build.

Unfortunately, I think I found a mistake in CT's Wrap Dimensions PDF. When I was checking pieces to see if they'd fit in my Ford Edge, I noticed what looked like a couple errors, most likely due to miscopying.
By my measurement, the hood center panel is 57" wide and 64" long and each outer hood panel is approximately 24" wide and 62" long. When combined, the hood is probably closer to 34 sf.
I also didn't see a measurement for the roll-bar covers which I estimated at 3 sf total (rounded up).
I have attached an annotated PDF showing my measurements in the Comments.
My total sf numbers are below -
All 3 Hood panels - 34 sf
Rear Top panel - 16 sf
Two upper front wings - 4 sf
fin - 2 sf
side panels - 8 sf
Interior panels - 4 sf
mirror panels - 2 sf
roll-bar covers 3 sf
Total area - approx 73 sf
all dimensions rounded up.
If anyone thinks I made any mistakes, please let me know.
I also attached a PDF file with comments about the measurements. The file must be downloaded to read the comments that contain the size info above.

Although I have the Rivco fender, I've been looking for a straight-sided heavy plastic trash can that I might be able to adapt as a close-fitting fender. Unfortunately, the ones I've seen so far are not straight-sided.

Nintendo is in the process of changing the permissions requested and used by Pokemon GO as the original release for iOS basically grabbed total access to your Google account. Nintendo claims they aren't using that full access but the user agreement allows them to share anything with third party groups. Be careful what you download.
Don't know if a re-download is required to get rid of the total access granted during the first version download.

SearchTempest allows you to search Craigslist within whatever distance of a zip code you specify. That should provide you an idea of asking prices.

Actually, for many years the Pledge of Allegiance did NOT include "Under God". That phrasing was a 1950s knee-jerk reaction to distinguish the USA from those godless Commies.
The Pledge of Allegiance

I have a 2015 Base Slingshot. Installed Sumitomo HTR Z III 295/30R18 on the rear and it made one heck of an improvement, especially on damp roads. The 295/30R18 is generally considered the Largest tire that conforms to OEM specs in terms of diameter and fits w/o causing any problems. The largest front tire is 225/45R17, which Sumitomo also makes. NTB carries them. The rear cost me $266 installed with road hazard warranty. The fronts are around $118 each w/o road hazard warranty or installation. The road hazard warranty was around $28/front tire. Gonna replace the front OEMs once they wear out as I really haven't had any problem with them.

When I installed my gas struts, I fastened it to the shock mount and then used it to figure out where to drill the hood hinge piece, checking to make sure everything would fit properly. After drilling, I disconnected the strut at the shock mount and connected the hood end. This then allowed me to compress the strut until I could reconnect the shock end. It does take a fair amount of force to compress the strut.

I bought the JRI coilovers back during the group buy (Feb '16?) and they definitely made a big difference in both ride and handling. Tires stay planted on rougher road surfaces and when crossing railroad tracks, for example, the tires barely lift of the road surface, if at all. The factory coilovers literally allowed the Slingshot to fly thru the air when crossing RR tracks.

IIRC, several folks over at the other place said they had their noisy muffler replaced by Polaris under warranty.

Went and got my Slingshot back from the dealer. The warped rear rotor and front seal on the angle drive ere replaced. Unfortunately, the brake sensors are back ordered. Once they come in, the mechanic will be checking the seal again just in case. Unfortunately, nothing else was done to the rear drive, but replacing the warped rotor seems to have cured the clicking noise I was hearing.

'iNewton', Thanks for the feedback about the turbo application. Haven't made a decision about forced induction and knew I wasn't thrilled about having to drill the pan and all the PITA associated with that. Fortunately, I'm in no great hurry while I try to get the funds needed together.

@iNewton, If you're just looking for the adapter that replaces the oil filter cap, I found it on EBay for around $150. It's listed as CBM-10813 Ecotec 2.2L 2.4L L61 LE5 remote oil filter adapter cooler billet USA.
I'm wondering if this could be used to provide oil to a turbo w/o drilling any holes or removing the oil pan.

A month or two after purchase, my 2015 Base made a god-awful scraping/chirping noise in the rear-end. I was backing out of my driveway and my neighbor across the street heard it too. Neither of us found anything and it never made that noise again.
At one time, my Slingshot's rear-end was making the same clicking sound heard in the video, but that is also the sound my mechanic attributes to the warped rear rotor.
With any luck, I'll get my Slingshot back today or Thursday, once I can get the Wife to give me a ride to the dealer (100 miles).

Using my 2015 Base wheels, I have a Sumitomo HTR Z III 295/30R18 on the rear. BIG improvement over the Kenda on damp roads. I now have around 22K miles and got the Sumitomo around 21K. Will install Sumitomo HTR Z III 225/45R17's on the front once the original Kendas wear down some more. The front Kendas have never really been a problem.

Quote from Bubblehead

Can anyone post pictures and instructions on how you installed the supports and where you connected them....

Quote from Nemesis1701

There is info at the beginning of this post. Sure the future will provide other very effective solutions and alternatives.

The pics pretty much show it all. The hardest part is figuring out where to drill the holes in the hood mechanism. Here is a link tot he original posting over there and it has some good pics, too - Putting shocks on Hood really helps opening. Just finished | Polaris Slingshot Forum

Well, I still don't have my Slingshot back from the dealer. They are trying to get a timeline on the brake sensors as Polaris apparently has no idea when they will be available.
I too, had a clicking noise coming from the rear of my Slingshot and feared it was the bearing, but my mechanic swears I had a warped rotor and replaced that. Hopefully, I'll find everything silent or whatever passes as normal according to Polaris, when I pick it up Wednesday.

Does this approach hook up to existing connectors or is drilling required?

Damn, how did I miss this post?I finally got around to getting my 2015 taxes done and have been looking at how to spend my half of the refund.

Depending on the dealer, the mechanic may or may not be willing to install something like the gas cylinder struts for a fee, provided he has some instructions or is willing to take the time to figure it out. Some dealers are willing to install a non-factory turbo kit while others won't touch something like that.

I am currently experiencing sever Slingshot withdrawal pains since my Slingshot has been at the dealer since last Wednesday to have a leaking front angle seal and a warped rear brake rotor replaced. The service rep told me they also wanted to replace either the right rear seal or, hopefully, the troublesome bearing since they were going to have the rear torn apart anyway. The mechanic originally felt I had a warped rear rotor that was causing the clicking noise and showed me how it was making the noise. Unfortunately, I can't remember which of the two (seal or bearing) he was referring to. Hopefully, I'll get it back tomorrow afternoon.