Posts by BKL

  • Questions After First Start of my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo Kit

    Crap! I was trying to tighten the overflow tank screws and one of them didn't seem to want to fit. I had it slightly in and used a long dowel and hammer to try and shift the mounting bracket. Stoopid ME! I hit the metal bracket, but ended up breaking the driver's side mounting tab on the coolant overflow tank. I found part of the shattered plastic tab under the Slingshot and my Wife found the metal insert that the mounting bolt tightens against. Unfortunately, the metal insert was on some wire almost directly above the hole on the driver's side of the bell-housing where the hydraulic clutch line feeds to the clutch and I'm afraid the bolt or other piece of the plastic tab may have dropped down inside the bell-housing. I'm not too concerned about the plastic tab, but if the bolt fell inside the bell-housing it might play havoc with the clutch and I'd rather avoid the time and expense of removing the engine & transmission just to check to see if the bolt is in the bell-housing, so I'm looking for my USB camera I can connect to my phone.

  • Questions After First Start of my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo Kit

    Good News (sorta)! I restarted the engine and noticed I had the Check Engine Symbol staying on after I started the engine. Went and rediscovered how to retrieve the error code and found a 0 65542 5 error code indicating a problem with Coil # 2, which was the last cylinder I had pulled and re-seated the spark plug with anti-seize compound after forgetting to apply anti-seize compound to the plugs during the initial install. Evidently, I hadn't properly seated the connector :/ , so I pulled it and reconnected it firmly. The Check Engine symbol is still ON, but the AFR dropped down to the 15-15.7 range. Since the coil wasn't firing properly, that would explain the rich gas smell. I feel BIGLY relieved since the AFR is no longer so far off! :thumbsup:
    I used the term "Good News (sorta)" since it appears I need to visit a dealer to get the code reset according to what i read on page 12.31 of my 2015 Service manual, although I have read where codes reset themselves after several starts. The Service Manual has this to say -
    "Clearing Trouble Codes
    6. Click on the “Clear Trouble Codes” icon to clear
    codes." I'll give it a few restarts before trying a dealer.


    Unfortunately, while I'd like to go for a short test ride and then come back and retighten the fasteners and reinstall the large body side panel I took off for the install, the weather forecast is for occasional rain overnight (roads are currently wet), but tomorrow is 0% chance of rain according to the Weather Channel. :D

  • Bitcoin beware

    Today's Bitcoin News -


    Received an email from Kiplinger with this -
    "...the big story Friday was bitcoin and other cryptocurrencies, which have been plunging this week and sank further following comments from Charlie Munger, Warren Buffett's top lieutenant.
    The Berkshire Hathaway (BRK.B) vice chairman called bitcoin and cryptocurrencies "total insanity" and "the last thing on Earth you should think about." That added fuel to an already massive selloff, with bitcoin falling from a high above $19,000 this week to below $11,000 at one point Friday.
    Bitcoin has created millionaires, but it's also a volatile and dangerous speculation. There are ways to mitigate the risk, such as by investing in stocks involved with bitcoin and other "blockchain" technology. However, you also could wave off bitcoin completely and instead look toward more proven grounds -- such as stocks with the Warren Buffett seal of approval. Here's a look at a few stocks he's been buying of late, as well as stocks that he has less faith in:

    7 Stocks Buffett Has Been Buying and Selling


    "
    and - Coinbase halts trading after volatile bitcoin price fluctuation


    and - Bitcoin and almost every other cryptocurrency crashed hard today

  • Questions After First Start of my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo Kit

    I started the motor and allowed it to idle for about 3-4 minutes, but shut it off as the AFR numbers started just under 20 and kept going up. I shut it off as it was hovering around 21+ with occasional short dips into the 20s. It did seem to be idling smoothly, though. I wanted to check the Forum before I tried reversing the sensor harness connection tot he Polaris wiring harness.


    Update - Found a post from @TravAZ where he was advising another Hahn Turbo owner - "Things to check...


    1. Is your 2 bar map sensor plugged in correctly? Yes, the adapter allows you to plug it in flipped, so the wires don't match. Look at original wires and the adapter plug to make sure the colors match the way you have it plugged in." My connectors have slightly different color wires, but a shown in the pic in Post #4, I tried to align the colors.

  • Questions After First Start of my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo Kit

    Quote from TravAZ

    You do not need to let the wideband sensor warm up. Just start it as normal and it will read correctly after a few seconds as it should.


    The vacuum readout is correct, as it should be around -18 to -20 at idle.


    You AFR reading is off. How long does that reading stay at that value? Most Slingshot will have a lean AFR at initial setup and it will slowly become richer as the throttle blade slowly shuts. This is something that is programmed into the ECM and it shouldn't scare you. Let it idle for 5-10 minutes and see if this number drops. You want to see an idle AFR around 13 - 14.5. Most run right around 13.5, depending if it is programmed to run closed loop or open loop idle.

    I've only allowed the engine idle for about 1 minute or so as the way too high AFR scared me! Will try a longer idle.

    I knew about not running with an unpowered sensor. Missed the do not pre-warm sentence.

    I followed the calibration instructions. When I initially went to try calibration, the gauge wasn't lighting up so I spent some time checking various connections and finally removed a butt joint between the inline fuse and the positive lead going to the gauge to get it to light up. I then followed the calibrations instructions.

    With that high AFR reading, I was scared to run the engine until I did some more research and postings for info from people with more experience than I have. I remembered reading that reversing the MAP sensor adapter could cause high readings, but will try allowing the engine to idle for a longer period before I try messing with the MAP sensor connector. After having my Daughter's daily driver throw a rod and spending close to $4K to install a used engine, I'm a little paranoid about my Slingshot motor. That was the main reason I wanted to make sure my oil pump was properly working and why I built the pressure luber to force oil thru the engine before I tried to start the engine. :D
    If I can read enough about something, I am usually willing to try tackling it, but sometimes too much knowledge on some things combined with awareness of possible shortcomings in other areas can induce too much paranoia to get things finished. Better safe than sorry.
    Thanks for the tips and the encouragement.

  • Questions After First Start of my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo Kit

    Here's a pic of the SCG-1 display and the Map Sensor included with the Hahn kit -
    The ECU was reflashed by Bob. The Hahn Stage 2 Turbo kit includes a 2 Bar MAP Sensor and I hopefully have the connector from the 2 Bar sensor properly connected to the Polaris harness. The connection to the Polaris harness can fit either way, but I assumed it should be same color to same color (as closely as possible).

  • Questions After First Start of my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo Kit

    After receiving my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo kit at the beginning of November 2016, I waited for the various recalls to get completed. Once the recalls had been fixed, I checked with a neighbor (local High School Auto Shop teacher) about having is students perform the turbo install, but it turned out it was too late in the school year and next year the program is undergoing some significant changes), so I ended up not getting started with the install until the beginning of July 2017. With delays ranging from a family trip, summer rain, the typical Houston heat & humidity (I hate working outside when it's humid), the flooding associated with Hurricane Harvey, and some extra delays to make sure I had oil properly pumping thru the engine, today, I finally got everything to the point where I was able to start my Hahn Stage 2 Turbo kit for the first time, but I have not yet driven the Slingshot with the turbo since I have a couple questions.


    1 - I have an Innovate Motorsports SCG-1 AFR/Boost Controller that I am using just to monitor Boost and AFR. When it first gets electricity, it displays a message that it is warming its dedicated O2 Sensor. IIRC, it takes about 30 seconds before the sensor is warmed and the gauge begins to display its values. Should I wait for the warming process to complete before staring the motor? Note - After buying the SCG-1 and its associated data Logger, I came across the Koso X2 waterproof Boost/AFR/Temp electronic gauge, which I am considering as a more durable replacement for the SCG-1, which like AEM's Boost/AFR gauge is not waterproof.


    2 - After I started the motor, the SCG-1 showed a negative vacuum at idle (around -18" Hg) and an AFR rating of around 19-20. This should indicate a severe lean condition that is NOT compatible with engine survival. There is also a strong smell of gasoline in the exhaust which I assume wouldn't be there if the engine is really running as lean as indicated. I think I read that connecting the MAP Sensor with the Hahn kit backwards will cause abnormally high AFR readings, although I believe this was an issue with the earlier Hahn kits and shouldn't be a problem with my kit since mine was shipped to me at the beginning of November 2016. Any ideas on what might be causing the odd AFR readings? I'm reluctant to actually drive my Slingshot until I've resolved the AFR readings. Any assistance appreciated.

  • Philip's Belgian Sling

    I have the rear brake light modulator, but removed about 1 month after I installed it when the brake warning light started coming on before I had the brake sensors replaced. Given the Slingshot's sensitivity to electrical imbalances, I just never got around to putting it back on. I seriously doubt the modulator had anything to do with the sensor issue, but better safe than sorry.

  • 2018 Slingshot Calendar (official thread)

    Off-topic comment about TDS. I still check there daily when trying to find some old info or just tracking what's going on. There seems to have been a steady decline in traffic with far fewer postings on a daily basis than we see here.
    While I was hitting Submit, my Wife told me I have a package! My calendar is here!!!!! Looks well done, but how in H... did @Ross make any money for hs efforts given how much postage he had to spend to ship my calendar? Ouch!

  • Light-use Compressor recommendations

    I bought my Bostitch compressor as a "refurbished" unit from http://www.cpooutlets.com. "Refurbished" is supposed to mean the manufacturer or some other entity has checked the item to make sure it works as designed and to specs, but I suspect that some places simply check to make sure it powers up. I have bought several items from CPO Outlets, including Ryobi One+ 18V battery-powered tools. Shipping is free, depending on total order with free-shipping order requirements varying by tool manufacturer. CPO Outlets sells both new and refurbished items. Here are CPO Outlets links to a Bostitch compressor similar to the one I had $(90 used or $110 new) - Factory Reconditioned Bostitch BTFP02012-R 6 Gallon 150 PSI Oil-Free Compressor
    Bostitch BTFP02012 6 Gallon 150 PSI Oil-Free Compressor

  • Light-use Compressor recommendations

    When filling vehicle tires, I generally leave the compressor set to its highest output pressure and use a Slime digital air pressure gauge to monitor the tire inflation process. About the only time I ever adjust the air outlet pressure is if I'm filling an air-mattress or similar low-pressure flotation device. Tires can handle a brief over-pressure situation much better than air-mattresses or pool floats which tend to quickly blow-up (literally) when over-filled.
    I recommended the Ryobi handheld air compressor above IF you already have a Ryobi One+ tool and charger or plan on buying several battery-operated tools. For filling an occasional bicycle tire or ball, a handheld unit fills the bill, IMHO, but for larger tires or multiple tires a larger compressor is better. The larger the tank the less the pump needs to fill everything back up during a multi-use cycle, but if you leave the compressor unpressurized and start it when you need it, the pump may end up running longer just to fill the tank.

  • Light-use Compressor recommendations

    I had a Bostitch 6 gal 150psi pancake-type compressor, but just donated it to Goodwill as I bought a new Sear upright 20 gal unit. I have 100 ft of HF air-hose on a HF reel to reach all of my vehicles w/o having to move any of them from their normal parking spots.


    If you already have any Ryobi One+ 18V tools, Ryobi makes a handheld air compressor that looks like a small drill and uses the same battery. About $20-25 at Home Depot. Ryobi has several compressors for air mattresses/pool toys to tire inflators, just pick the one that best suits your needs. If you also need the battery and charger, that adds a lot to the cost, but if you are considering buying more than one type of battery-powered tool, the Ryobi One+ 18V collection is not bad.