Posts by BKL

I'm not familiar with the ProCharger/I-Charger stuff, but keep in mind that the Slingshot uses an encrypted ECU.
I believe these are the current options available to Slingshot owners -
Bob from MEFIBurn (OBD Diagnostics) is the only person out there who offers tunes supporting the major boost kits available for the Slingshot. They also offer an option to monitor, but not change, the Slingshot ECU (OBD Diagnostics).
CBM Motorsports offers a kit that allows you to tune your Slingshot ECU (CBM Motorsports OnLine Store). I believe it is coded to only work on your specific ECU, but codes are available for toher ECUs at additional cost.
Haltech (Haltech – Engine Management Systems » Blog Archive Product Overview: Polaris Slingshot Plug'n'Play Adaptor - Haltech - Engine Management Systems) offers a replacement ECU that is OBDII-compliant and allows tuning, but their solution is currently the most expensive.

Quote from busatodd

Ok have a weird noise coming from rear tire area, been to 2 dealers, first one sad belt was too tight and adjusted it, didn't help, two weeks later take to another dealer and they find bolt loose,so they readjust belt, I'm hoping that's the problem....... nope. I don't know who to turn to, about ready to sell, this noise is driving me crazy...

Is your Slingshot still under warranty? I hope I'm wrong, but I wonder if that noise might be associated with a bad rear axle bearing. That's the first thought that came to mind, but it doesn't sound the same as some of the Slingshot rear axle bearing noise videos on YouTube.
The other noise that comes to mind is noise from the parking brake unit. IIRC, if the spring gets shifted out of its normal position, it can make a similar noise. (polaris slingshot rear axle bearing noise - YouTube)

From what I understand, the Gen 3 block mainly provides rigidity to the cylinders by including metal connections between the cylinders and the engine block. The stock LE5 engine that comes in the Slingshot does NOT have this additional reinforcing material and also lacks forged rods that were used on the pre-2008 (or so era) or would typically be used on a built-for-boost engine. According to DDm Works. the less expensive rods used in the Slingshot version of the LE5 are limited to around 75 HP per cylinder, meaning as a boosted stock Slingshot engine approaches 300 HP or around 260 HP at the rear wheels (+/-) the chances of damaging your engine increase. Any particular stock engine may run for an extended period of time at HP levels above that, but just about any stock engine will eventually break at higher HP levels. The cheapest way to try to hit HP numbers over 300 would be to find a used pre-2008 LE5 motor in the best condition you can locate. While such an early LE5 would not have the reinforced cylinder walls, plenty of built-for-boost 300+ HP engines have been based on these early motors.
You might get lucky and have a boosted stock Slingshot engine last at least for a while running 300+ HP, but I'd only risk it if I was also trying to save up money for a built-for-boost engine and couldn't wait to get boosted.

Pleased to see it worked out in this instance. Still doesn't help the others they've screwed and still doesn't resolve them of their other responsibilities for the other vehicles they've intentionally damaged.

I hope the Slingshot''s owner captured their online posts before they think to remove them. Those online posts should constitute pretty clear evidence of intent.

The top tabs generally seem to hold ok, but the problems can come with the lower tabs and the double-stick tape. I've had mine on & off several times over the past couple years, and have noticed they occasionally do not want to seat flush (I prefer to NOT use double-stick tape), Next time I get ready to put them back on, I'm considering drilling a few holes along the bottom so I can use some push-pins to secure them instead of the double-stick tape. Even unpainted, I don't think the push-pins would be that noticeable since they're down pretty low. Just make sure any holes you want to make won't interfere with any wiring or other parts.
I guess color-matched screws would also work as long as you're careful to not overtighten and strip the holes.

Definitely recommend checking out whatever top you're interested in before purchase. If at all possible, try to find someone local who has the same top you're interested in. Even a several hour drive to check one out makes fiscal sense. Expensive mistake if you buy one and later realize you don't like it.

I just did a quick search for ZZP turbo kits and found the following -

ZZP's YouTUbe Channel - ZZPerformance Official
- YouTube (for some reason, this link didn't work when I pasted it into my browser window, but that's the link produced when I searched YouTube for ZZPerformance Official) -
includes 2 videos related to the Slingshot -

Comments on ZZP products from an old thread on a Pontiac G5 forum - ZZP supercharger kit ----- simple bolt on?

Installation instructions for installing a ZZP turbo kit on a Chevy vehicle that has a very restricted engine compartment compared to the Slingshot -2.4 Turbo Install.pdf. While the instructions are relatively brief, they should still be adequate for forum members to do the install with a post or two here for assistance/clarification.

Looking over this stuff, I still have a few questions about the kit. Where does the O2 sensor install since it looks like the turbo connects directly to the muffler? How much room is there to add a second O2 sensor for gauges as opposed to ECU support? When will larger injectors be available for the ZZP Slingshot kit and are they really needed for normal street operation?
The more I look into this kit, the more attractive it seems to me.

Quote from War Hoop

This post is worthless without pictures.

He has pics in posts 1, 4, 17, 24, 29, 44 & 50.
When I initially heard about this kit, I was concerned about reliance on the stock injectors and their ability to deliver enough fuel at higher boosted rpms where the engine may demand more fuel than the stock units can handle. If user experience proves this kit to be worthwhile, its inclusion of a water-cooled turbo housing and a muffler/exhaust at this price-point would make it a strong contender for a lot of folks, especially those on a budget.
From @Kev's initial impressions, it certainly sounds attractive and I would be seriously considering it if I didn't already have a Hahn Stage 2 kit installed.

Exhaust recirculation into the cockpit is primarily a problem for folks who have modified exhausts w/o a catalytic converter and also have a top plus a (taller) solid windshield that does not promote air flow into the cockpit. I have a cat-less exhaust and a TD Top and the only time I smell fumes is sitting at a long light. Once moving, the MadStad Single Adjustable windshield pretty much eliminates exhaust getting back into the cockpit by allowing fresh air to flow under the windshield to keep the cockpit air flushed.

Looks like the original Blade windshield. It's relatively short height allowed way too much air to flow over it and into the cockpit with my TD Top.

Quote from edwardaneal

okay - so this is the first I have heard of a wind problem when installing a top - I have a 2016 SL with the factory windshield - if I were to get a top at some point is this something I would have to worry about?
if this is an issue is it a problem with every top including the Mean Sling?

Before I ever bought a windshield, I stopped by a fellow Slingshot owner's house just so the Wife and I could try getting in & out to see if we liked it. We did, but I have to confess that it never occurred to m to ask him about cockpit air turbulence. I already knew I wanted a taller windshield since my first extended ride before I purchased was in a Slingshot with an F4+3 shield and the top of it was right in the middle of my eye-line.

The NASCAR-style windshield from AllThingsSlingshot may also eliminate the wind problem.
I have a Twist Dynamics Top and use a MadStad Single Adjustable 13" windshield and don't have wind problem. A few months ago, I reinstalled my stock 2015 Slingshot Blade windshield and was quickly reminded why I switched to a taller windshield. W/o eye protection, I couldn't see at all at higher speeds due to the air hitting my eyes.
A nice feature of the MadStad Single Adjustable is the adjustability that allows air to flow under the windshield w/o causing turbulence in the cockpit. I also drilled a second set of mounting holes to allow me to install the windshield lower to reduce air flow in cooler weather. MadStad has a sizing chart on their website which says I should use the 11" shield since I'm around 6'1", but I can still see over the 13" windshield w/o straining my neck. I typically look thru the shield, but in heavy rain, it can help to look over it.
If you have other Slingshot owners in your area who have a Top, check with them to see how they like their windshields.

Ouch!

I think it's a pretty safe assumption that all of the Li battery problems such as fires, expansion or explosions have been due to faulty charging circuits in the battery that allowed the battery to overcharge.
As far as electric cars are concerned, the only concerns I've read about problems with the batteries are related to what might happen in the event of a crash that somehow damages the battery pack and causes a short-circuit. Electric vehicle battery packs contain a very high charge in terms of both the overall voltage and the amperage they can deliver in the event of a short circuit and can result in a fire restarting if the connection to the battery pack is not disrupted. Here's a link to NHTSA's most recent Li electric vehicle battery study - 12848-lithiumionsafetyhybrids_101217-v3-tag.pdf.

Quote from kyslingshot

Welter Stealth exhaust is close to Grp 34 Optima battery but works just fine!

I guess I was remembering folks talking about the 2.5" turbo exhausts.

If you have Rural King nearby, they offer a Group 34 AGM battery for around $100-130, depending on sale price. Pep Boys carries a Bosch AGM battery that looks identical to the RK battery. Normal price $200, but often on sale for less. If you have a Welter Performance exhaust that runs thru the trans tunnel, I don't believe a Group 34 battery will fit as it will hit/interfere with the exhaust pipe.

Use Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit to input your tire and wheel info for your stock tire and then enter the tire/wheel info you're curious about. You'll see a visual representation of the differences.

I'm not sure the EBay service manuals for the Slingshot are a Polaris-authorized product. I believe most of them are scanned versions of the Polaris Service manual as some seem to have slightly different search and indexing features. That said, they certainly seem to be a lot cheaper and more convenient than the printed versions.

That fits with what I remember from the incident in that Firestone was chosen by Ford, but Ford recommended using a lower tire pressure which resulted in tire failure.