I believe the Exocet can be made street-legal with a little effort. Of course, the level of effort needed will depend on your state's registration laws/process. Typically, you'll need receipts and a State HP inspection. Of course, YMMV. Texas seems to have recently retroactively pulled Dune Buggy registrations, or so I've heard.
Posts by BKL
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Jump-start your Slingshot and go to the nearest Autozone/Oreilly's, etc and have them test your battery. Should be no cost and you'll learn if there's a problem with your battery.
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I used a 4-mirror wide-view setup from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006K8VHU8/
Unlike the OP, I didn't think thru the installation and drilled holes in my TD Top cross-member. I later realized I should have simply used some pipe clamps to clamp the mirror brackets to the cross-member. The mirror sits pretty much within the frame of the top and doesn't interfere with forward vision and also pretty much eliminates the blind spots. I can see anything within a couple feet of the Slingshot to my immediate left, behind, and around to the right.
Update - Added a pic -
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The search tool on many sites is not always that helpful. Use Google.com and enter your query using the following format - site:xxx.xxxxxxxxx.xxx search terms. This will allow you to use Google's search tool to search the desired site for the terms you specify. You may still need to try some different terms, but you should get more focused results compared to the forum's search capability. Example - from http://www.google.com - enter site:slingshotinfo.com racing tires or site:slingshotinfo.com UTQG < 300. The first search produced 261 hits compared to the site's search return of 2 hits and the second search produced 6 compared to 0 hits using the site's search tool.
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See attached PDF for additional rebate info.
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I've now run a bottle of Heet thru the tank, followed by a bottle of Sea Foam and am still experiencing bogging under hard acceleration, but it mainly seems to bog as the fuel level goes down.
I found replacement Slingshot fuel filters on EBay, but it's such a pain pulling the pump assembly to get to the filters that I think I should replace the pump at the same time. I guess I'll try a couple more cans of Sea Foam to see if it does anything before replacing the pump/filters.
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Heet is mostly just alcohol to take care of water. Sea foam is a good choice as is Berrymans and several other cleaners. Before a drop a pile of money on a new pump just to replace the filer(s) i would do a good power wash of the filters when I had them out of the tank, then replace and see what you get. Just seems way stupid to make a system that does not have a replaceable filter with out replacing major components.
LC
I really dislike the design of assemblies with non-replaceable parts. I was concerned about trying to replace just the pump since Polaris sells everything as a single unit, but I now feel better informed if I need to go that route. I still have some concerns about the wiring, but I'll be sure to insect everything well when & if I need to replace the pump.
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I did some Internet research -
As posted previously, the fuel pump incorporates 2 non-replaceable filters and also includes the gas level sensor and retails for around $400, give or take! Polaris lists the fuel pump assembly as pn 2521242. Fuel Pump Factory offers what they list as a replacement fuel pump for $79.99 with free delivery and specifically state it replaces the 2521242. I called them and asked if their pump was supposed to replace the factory pump on the factory assembly and was told yes. Unfortunately, I also checked a listing on EBay for the same item and the listing did not list the item as matching my 2015 Polaris Slingshot.
I continued my EBay search and found a listing for a Slingshot fuel pump and found a UK seller that offered a fuel pump that looked like the Fuel Pump Factory pump and also claimed the pump was attached to the Polaris fuel pump assembly via two push-tabs. I also found a California seller who offered the FPF pump w/free shipping. See attached file.
Links -
FPF replacement fuel pump - https://www.fuelpumpfactory.co…015-2018-replaces-2521242
UK EBay vendor - https://www.ebay.com/itm/112603078103
EBay California-based seller - https://www.ebay.com/itm/173594236672
Hopefully, I won't need to replace my fuel pump, but it looks like I can save money if I end up replacing it.
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Just can't get enough of how not to do it...
The recommended way to remove these 'GPS' trackers is to drill thru the 'GPS' unit and the wheel so they are guaranteed not to work. For extra assurance, use a longer drill bit and drill thru the tire, too!
Remember - It must be true because I saw it on the Internet!
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A lot of the problems with helmet fit come from different manufacturers focusing on slightly different head shapes (oval , narrow, etc.). Try Googling "factors affecting motorcycle helmet fit" for more info.
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If anyone is looking for a relatively inexpensive tire (actually costs less than the Kendas), with a little longer tread rating than the Kendas (400 vs Kenda's 300), check out Achilles ATR Sport or ATR Sport 2 tires. You can find them on Amazon and some of the other tire websites. Achilles offers the ATR Sport 2 in a 305/30ZR18 tire for folks looking for a wider rear tire on the base Slingshot, assuming you can find a wheel you like. According to the Achilles website (http://www.achillestireusa.com/tires/performance/atr-sport or http://www.achillestireusa.com/tires/performance/atr-sport-2) they're made in sizes to fit the Slingshot Base and SL models. My only complaint about the Achilles website is they don't specify what wheel width range is recommended for their tires.
I just tried an ATR Sport 275/35ZR18 tire on the rear of my Slingshot and felt it did pretty well, even with the extra power of my Hahn Stage 2 turbo setup. I've only put around 100 miles on it so far, but it seemed to perform well.
Update - March 31, 7 p.m. - Just wanted to add a few more comments - The Achilles ATR Sport I'm running on the rear only cost around $77 when I ordered it from Amazon back in April 2018. The Achilles ATR Sport 2 305/30ZR18 is currently listed for $100.79 on Amazon w/ free shipping. The 1 review states that the guy mounted it on the rear of his wife's Mustang using an 18x10 wheel. (See my coment below). The biggest drawback I've seen while searching for the Achilles 305/30ZR18 tire is that they seem to not always be available and are subject to shipping irregularities here in the United States.
As I mentioned earlier, Achilles doesn't specify a recommended wheel width range of their tires on their webssite, the question arises - What size wheel is best when using a 305/30ZR18 tire?
My research has shown a wide variation in recommended wheel widths for a given tire size, with some tire manufacturers specifying much wider wheels for a given tire width than do other manufacturers. These differences in recommended sizes may also be due to different regulatory agencies. As an example, some size charts I've seen recommend far wider wheels for the Slingshot's tires than Polaris chose. The following tire size/profile and wheel width data is based on info from - http://etmags.com/tech_specs_tire_chart.html which also matches up with the recommend minimum and maximum wheels widths from Nitto's tire vs wheel recommendations for the Nitto 555 G2 (https://www.nittotire.com/pass…ra-high-performance-tire/) and the Nitto Motivo (https://www.nittotire.com/pass…ra-high-performance-tire/) tires.
While the below tire vs wheel width info includes info for 18, 19 & 20" wheels, we don't need to worry about the wheel diameters since we are more concerned about the relationship of tire width & profile vs recommend wheel widths.
Tire Size Wheel Width Data Source
P305/55R
188.5 - 11.0 ET MagsP305/45R
189.5 - 11.5 ET MagsP305/40R
2010.0 - 12.0 ET MagsP305/35R
1810.0 - 12.0 ET Mags305/35ZR
1910.0 - 12.0 Nitto Tires305/30ZR
1910.5 - 11.5 Nitto TiresLooking at the highest profile tires shown at the top of the list, followed by lower profile tires as we go down the list, we can see that as the tire profile becomes lower, the required wheel width increases. This implies two things - The above reference to the Amazon review where the buyer mentioned mounting the Achilles ATR Sport 2 305/30ZR18 tire on an 18x10" wheel may mean he is using a smaller than normally recommended wheel width (assuming Achilles hasn't specifically blessed this tire/wheel combo) and that, as Nitto shows from their data, the recommended wheel widths for a 305/35 tire should be 10.5-11.5". This also implies that the stock rear Base Slingshot wheel is not wide enough to safely mount a 305/35ZR18 tire.
My summary of the above - I need to find an 18x10.5" wheel if I want to try the lowest cost 305 width tire I've been able to find. I've been happy with my Nitto 555 G2 315/35ZR17 tire on an American Muscle 17x10.5" Mustang wheel, but the Nitto still costs twice the price of the Achilles 305/30ZR18 tire. I was getting around 10,000 miles ont he stock kenda rear tire and have gotten over 10,000 miles from my Nitto 555 G2 and expect tog et a few thousand more from it. At about 1/2 the cost, if I can get around 10,000 miles from the Achilles ATR Sport 2 305/30 tire and its performance/grip approaches that of my 555 G2, then I can save some money while getting decent performance from the Achilles tire. Only a new wider rear wheel, some money and some time will tell.
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OK. Not videos, but funny pics my Wife sent me from Facebook -
Works with Cats noises, too!
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Fill her up and add in some sea foam...see what happens.
I may try some Sea Foam after my next fill-up since I put 20 gallons worth of Heet in for my last fill-up and don't plan on letting the tank go below 1/2 before adding more gas.
can you hear the ocean like holding a sea shell to your ear?
My Wife gets to hear noises all the time. You'd think after all of my Army time and all the shooting (guns
) I did when younger that I'd be the one with tinnitus. -
My family has always assumed our roots traced back to England, but in my case, I assume I must have some Scot in me since I don't like spending money unless I feel something is absolutely needed. In my case, I feel the only need for the aftermarket ECUs is if you're really after high performance and want maximum ECU tuning flexibility. I prefer having the stock ECU along with properly functioning nanny controls and would prefer having them if I were to go with an aftermarket ECU.
That same reasoning is why I like the TRAKHAMR 4-wheel conversion since it maintains the ABS and TC systems (and I assume the CC, as well). Now if I can just win the Lottery!
(I tried multiple edits to get the smiley face with two thumbs up. It shows in Edit mode, but once I save, I end up with just a thumbs up!) -
I'm going for a ride tonight, so I guess I'll get to see if the bogging becomes a problem at lower rpm. While I can understand placing the fuel filter(s) before the fuel pump to protect the fuel pump, I never have liked the idea of using non-replaceable fuel filters, but I guess the cost of pulling and replacing just the filters is the same labor cost as replacing the entire assembly. Overall, though, I think the added manufacturing costs of routing the gas line from the fuel intake out the side of the tank to a replaceable fuel filter and then back into the tank to the fuel pump would make more sense in terms of long-term maintenance costs for the buyer, but, of course, manufacturers seem more concerned with their own costs far more so than with the cost of ownership.
Post-ride update - Only remember 2 instances of bogging, but they had somewhat confusing circumstances. One instance was mild aceleration in 5th gear and the rpms were well below 4000. The second occurred during a brisk acceleration event and the rear wheel started spinning. I took my foot off the gas to recover from the overspin and when I shifted up and applied more gas, I got hit with the bogging down. Oddly, I had a couple other accelerations w/o any bogging as I ran thru the gears, but it may be possible I managed to miss the bogging by shifting earlier.
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Bad Gas!
With thrust like that, I'd expect him to face-plant pretty quickly!
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I have thought about changing out my smaller 30L motorcycle battery for a larger car size battery, but I dont have any added electrical things that would increase the drain on the battery and I also love that I can walk into my local batteries + Bulbs and find several options in stock if I were to need a replacement.. With prices ranging from 109 to 159 it just seems much more reasonable than what it would cost to upgrade to a yellow top especially with the needed conversion mounting brackets.
Where I live it doesn't get cold so having a huge CCA number over the 400 I can get in the 30L doesnt seem necessary so am I wrong? would the larger battery really give me enough of a longer life to offset the extra expense?
Given your description, it sounds like the smaller battery should meet all your needs. While I assume Polaris put the battery in the back for weight distribution, that location also does a good job of protecting the battery from engine heat and probably extends the life of any battery placed there. W/o extra electrical demands, the battery should be fine since it shouldn't be seeing any special current demands to lower its output.
