They are the same Dia. 1.26 inch or 32mm I just checked
Posts by FunCycle
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You are correct ,,, mine did also... I haven't looked at my old bar to get them off of it and see if they will fit the new bar. @Wrenchmn and I noticed that my new bar had slid all the way to one side. It looks bad but I dont think it actually hurts anything... I mean you can probably assume that it isn't good for the links to be at an angle when they are being stressed. But overall they probably even out gong down the highway...
My old bar is in town in one of my storage building... Ill grab it tomorrow and see if the factory collars will work on the new bar.I just checked the locks, they will work with the DDM sway bar but there will be about a 1/16 inch gap where they clamp together when using the electrical tape on the inside of the clamp. I just tried to move my bar from side to side it will not move. Mine was about 5/8 inch from being centered.
The first thing I would do on yours is take the links loose and center the bar and check the links are the same length. I noticed something else on your link picture, looks like they made all of the adjustment on one end of the link. For a little more strength on the threads, I would center the link between the rod ends. I did move my links attachment to the outside of the bar, now they are almost straight up and down. In my way of thinking if the bar is centered and the link lengths are the same ,you will get very little movement from side to side of the SS.
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One thing to remember is that the sway bar can also slide side to side up to 6 or more inches.. The only thing that holds it from sliding even further is the links themselves.
On the stock sway bar you usually have the locking collars to hold it in place.. I noticed the new Slingshots don't even have those so they will slide also ....
My original sway bar had the factory stops on each side to keep it from moving.
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And you could not do anything with her before so what are you going to do with her now.?
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It tells me it is spelled wrong but does not auto correct
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I just not sure how to post the build. Its confusing
I did not even know how to use the forum when I first started here. I still cannot do or know how to do a lot of stuff on here. I never even had a computer until 3 years ago.
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I agree. Basically an interchange directory. I will work on that this week and see if I can lay out a section for this...
Also this could be an easy way to find and post anything related to less just say like the engine. Everything related to the engine would/could be in the engine thread. It really will only work if we use it and post in the proper area.
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Welcome to the madness. To save yourself some money make up your mind if the mods that are more important to you are show or go and try to stick to the plan.
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I haven't checked into it yet but I have not had any issues with my swingarm. Anybody know if they will let you have the new swingarm to take home just in case??? I haven't read all the fine print and am pretty lazy these days
They are not letting you keep anything else that they replace,I was told it was all sent back to Polaris.
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That my friends needs to be added to a parts thread for the Slingshot. @rabtech we need a central thread for parts and the numbers and at least one other car/truck or whatever it is used on. This would go back to the conversation you and I had at DDM about having a separate thread for the SS parts and info. Brakes --- suspension --- engine --- interior --- exterior --- electronics --- electrical --- brakes --- wheels --- tires and I could thing of a few more to break it down a little further.
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Still seems to be more info on the dark side. I did find that after I posted and then finally found the pictures.
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might be sooner than we think!
Why aren't you posting the build over here?
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Mine has been running a long time, but yes that is a must also.
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Not a soap box Gerald!! Excellent observation. Unions were a much needed and excellent voice for the working man. Most of the union leaders now are corrupt or at the very in the pocket of big business. Unions & government all need a reset from the ground up in IMO. However, as you point out, long as we the people are at each other's throat no progress will be made and the rich keep gettin richer and.......
You got that right @Bill Martin and I think that is what is going on at this time.
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Also, hook up all of the springs before you tighten the flange bolts up, it makes it a whole lot easier rather than trying to stretch the springs to reattach after the bolts are tight. I did tighten up the header first though
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Back in the day, the late 70's. They called it union busting (turning the employees against each other) so that the company's could pretty much do what they wanted. If the company's had treated their employees fairly the union's could not have existed anyway. Today big business and the government are doing the same thing by turning the citizens of these United States against each other to brew hate and discontent so that the citizens will not stick together to get something done as a group. I will get off of my soap box.
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@Ruptured Duck as always thank you....... @FunCycle did you remove it or was it was the wear visible without removal also you do have a 2015 unit right?
I replaced it with the DDM sway bar, brackets and the links. Yes I have the 2015, mostly all of the paint was gone and starting to wear into the bar. It is not visable unless you remove the brackets and the bushings but it also has 40,000 miles on it and about 8 trips to the Smokies. No easy rides up there.
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Display More@WraithSS nice info. A cross brace is another item I plan to build this winter, but that's for another posting.
I removed the factory bracket and as @WraithSS noted the very hard , assume plastic, bushing. To @Nemesis1701 question regarding stiffness improvement going to the poly bushing is going to be a little harder to calculate. We are now talking about a durometer rating of about 80-90 for the polyurethane bushing to a much harder plastic material with a higher rating.
Now Polaris either designed or sourced these bushings that have groves and a hole to allow it to be greased, but did not provide the Zerk fitting on the back of the mounting plate. another strange decision from them. The stiffer plastic will really limit sway bar movement but without a way to grease the plastic, in my opinion will fail quickly with spirited driving. An OE sized polyurethane bushing set is a good aftermarket part for someone to make.
The factory mounting bracket is rather nice and solid and would have loved to reuse them but are a good bit narrower than the new Poly replacement as you can see in the images.I have temporarily mounted the bracket and bushing to test the fitment. The Energy Suspension part fit perfectly but does move the sway bar back maybe 1/8" or so. This does not effect anything that I can tell at this time and feel comfortable recommending the part.
Now the next step for me will be to remove and weld trusses to the sides of the metal ES bracket and to also add a separate rear plate that moves it back out the 1/8" as well as providing more rear surface area for the bushing to rest.
The benefits of the new bushing is the width and the ability to grease. The added width should offset the durometer difference and prolong the life if the bushings.
I'll try to get the next steps done this week.
For those that have a question about this mod, I just looked at my stock sway bar and there was starting to be a good bit of wear where the stock bushing is and also there was no grease. So the bracket mod and the grease fitting would be a good idea. Also RD the c to c should have been 1 1/4 inch, that is all you have room for without modifying the bar.
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Looked like about 1 1/4 inch center to center will be max on the extra hole. I put the wrong distance in, it is not 1 1/2 inch.
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HAPPY BIRTHDAY
