It’s Mississippi. Are we really surprised?
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Posts by Dochatley
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I’d go with a new 17 at a much less price if your going with the base. Little change to 18 if no ride command.
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Im glad you made the switch...... I hope we made you feel at home here......
Been here awhile and I definitely prefer this site. A lot of the guys I saw on the other site I see here. Also like the format better. Everyone has been great.
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Found some on EBay. OUCH!!! That must be some fine stuff.
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Prayers are with you. Hang in there.
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Edward I think he is referring to the small batteries in the 16s and 17s. The 15s actually had a decent battery but the battery in my 16.5 was like a glorified lawnmower battery and barely lasted a year. Those bean counter batteries were junk. Did the yellow top switch.
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Not only junk but technically not what is recommended for the Slingshot. I believe the manual recommends 445 cranking amps and the little POS that came in mine had 385 slingshotinfo.com/wcf/index.php?attachment/80552/cranking amps or something like that.
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Seems like it is always the Driver side. Passenger side only shakes on bumpy or rough road. Driver side vibrates with engine vibration.
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You sure there isn't something wrong with the mounting?
Mounting is good it’s the plastic mirror part. Put you finger on it and vibration stops. Rubber around edge stabilizes it and less vibration.
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I had to quit using the “ other” site because I kept getting these annoying pop up yahoo stuff saying you won this or that. It basically took over your computer. I was told it is not in my computer but the site that has been hacked and needs to address the issue. Doesn’t happen on other sites.
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I have a 16 and the drivers side mirror shakes like a paint shaker. I put some rubber around it ( learned from this site) and it helps. Passenger side no problem.
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Well then I have had a WHOLE lot of fun the past 2 years.
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First I want to thank all of you for your ideas and thoughts about my problem. When it comes to electrical issues I’m very limited on knowledge. I took the battery in and got tested. When I removed battery I checked voltage on the battery posts. 14.2. When they tested battery it was so dead under load he couldn’t print the replace battery ticket. Had to hook a booster to it. So, new battery installed and everything back to normal. I also got a new Battery Tender just in case there were any issues with the old one. This last battery only lasted a little over 4 months so hopefully nothing is “eating my battery”. Time will tell.
Thank you all again. The knowledge here is unbelievable.Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Info
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I’ll take it tomorrow and get tested.
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Would a bad starter solenoid do what this is doing?
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Haven’t checked the starter connections yet. Will do tomorrow. This thing has me totally puzzled. Which is easy because I’m not very proficient with electrical issues.
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Checked ground from battery and it is tight.
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Grounded on bolt there where 2 fingers are.
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Here are a couple of videos of what is happening.
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Ok. For those that have been helping me with this battery issue, today I disconnected the Digital Dawg Keyless start to rule that out. I first measured volts at my jump post and it was 14.2. I then put the key in and turned it on. 3.2 showed up on digital volt meter in Slingshot. Redlight start button barely came on and of course nothing when I pushed it. Any ideas. It is under warranty so that’s no issue but I would like to have some knowledge as to what may be happening so I won’t get BS’d at the dealer.
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