After inspecting the engine bay everything looks to be fine. Cycling through the modes only shows " CK ENG." Looks like a trip to the dealer is what is needed. UGG!
Posts by Blaze
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I don't have the time to drive my SS as much as I like to. It's been about 6 weeks since last driven when everything was fine. But yesterday I went to take my 2016 SS for a spin something is very wrong. After hitting the start button, the engine revs up then backfires repeatedly until I turn the key to shut it off. The check engine light is on which leaves me to believe that it is electronic, like a bad sensor that deals with the air fuel mixture. Before I have it towed to the dealer about 50 miles away is there anything that I could check and the location of such part? I'm hoping that someone has had a similar issue and was told that it is a bad MAP sensor or something similar.
Thanks
Blaze
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I'm pretty sure that the rubber will melt to the actual ball inside then crack down the road. I already had them painted about 5years ago but they are now full of chips. I have seen this really hard caliper paint. I think I'll try that.
Why would allow the top ball joint to be changed but not the bottom. Makes no sense using such inferior parts.
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I want my control arms powder coated. After doing research on removing the ball joints I discovered that the lower ball joints are nonremovable and if need replacing that a whole lower control arm needs replaced. They are pressed in for single use. Has anyone had one powder coated and did the ball joint make it through the oven ok?
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I have Braum Elite-X series seats, and I bought the fitted seat covers also. I bought the seat belt guides, because I didn't want to thread the belts through the holes. The seat bases are Sparco's. To lift up the front of the seats, I installed spacers between the seat base and the slider, and also between the slider and the bottom of the seats.
One of the reasons I bought aftermarket seats is because the seat bottoms of the factory seats were too short, and I felt like I had no support. I always felt like I was sliding forward, and it was fatiguing because I had to keep repositioning myself. The bottoms of these Braum's are about 2 inches longer, and with the fronts being raised, I am tucked in now.
I have these exact same seats. The stock runners will not work and you will need the aftermarket ones. A couple things about these seats.
First: They are not waterproof. Get the optional seat covers and use them when washing or at least place a folded towel on the seat bottom to keep from getting a wet ass. As much as I have tried not to, it doesn't take much water to seep into the stitching.
Second: I have found that the sun fades the red stitching to pink over time. I bought some red dye off Amazon and touch them up with a Q-tip from time to time to make it "pop" again. I use a slightly damp towel to wipe the dye off the leather immediately after. The dye stays on the thread but comes off the leather. My seats are 4 or 5 years old. Braum may have changed to a different thread material by now. Regardless, I would still buy them again. They look and feel great.
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Did you check reeeeeallllyyyy Well under the seat??😉 (wouldn’t that be nice!)
Figuring that it absolutely had to be in there I removed the seat. No Luck. I heard that the Volvo one doesn't work either. I never really use the cruise anyway so it will probably get fixed a some electrical tape.
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Anyone know how I can get a new button for my turn signal? 2016
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Use a round soft bristle brush to get between the spokes. You can find them at most chain auto stores in the wash and wax aisle. I also use to remove my wheels and wax them once a year. Now I use a ceramic wax that is spray on and rinse off. There are a number of different brands. I use the one by Turtle wax. This helps with dirt and dust from sticking to the wheel. I really can't stand dirty wheels so I will give them a simple rinse with a hose before going out even if I'm not washing the rest of the SS.
Custom wheels make bring the SS to a new level but only if they are clean.
One other thing. Stay away from tire shine that comes in a spray bottle. It gets on the wheels and makes stuff stick to them. I use Armor All Tire Shine that comes in a squeeze bottle and with a spongy applicator.
Hope this helps.
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I have the same setup and can not hear the deep bass at speed either. Part of driving an open cockpit vehicle I guess.
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Yes pulled it out of storage and went for a quick ride before washing it. It was filthy. Didn't cover it and I have one.
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I don't know if this is the best mod I have done but it is certainly the most fun. Well worth the money, even at full price.
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Did you ever see the video of Travis Pastrana “drifting” a SlingShot?
My Pedal Commander arrived today. Shipping from Slingmods was fast as usual. I was looking forward to trying some drifting with it and then Rob the Slob goes and scares the $hit out of me. How am I ever going to have the nads to drift after watching a pro flip the damn thing?
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I have been learning how to drift in the SS. Sounds like this is just what I need to get the rear tire to brake loose more easily. Just ordered mine. Too bad I'll have to wait till spring to really get to enjoy it but couldn't pass up the discount.
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Nice. I recently added a 1320 header and rear exhaust. If the price is right I my ditch it for this. I hate throwing away money but that simply looks sexy. Eagar to read about the final result.
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I have the ones in the roll hoop and can hear my music with great clarity at highway speeds. I also have the 1320 rear exhaust which is one of the loudest exhaust systems out there. I think it is the best location when paired with an amp and decent speakers.
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The reflective film is included.
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It is not, but it can be easily unplugged and thrown in the glove box when needed. The bottom of the unit has a type of sticky rubber that keeps it from sliding and is not permanently fixed to the dash using 3M tape or the like. Just make sure that the end of the cord is dry (usually by blowing on it) before you plug it back in. When the bottom loses it's stickiness I run it under the kitchen faucet on a low trickle being careful not to get the top or port wet. Just put your finger over the port. Let it air dry and the stickiness comes right back.
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The best way to get accurate speedometer readings after installing larger wheels is to get a GPS HUD. I have this one purchased from Amazon for $35 and I think it is a great mod to boot :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod…tle_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It comes with a long enough USB cord to plug into the port in the glove box and routed along the firewall so installation was simple. I had to make some adjustments to mine out of the box but instructions are easy to understand and there is even a You Tube video. A simple and economical fix to the problem.
