Posts by Blaze

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    I have the ones in the roll hoop and can hear my music with great clarity at highway speeds. I also have the 1320 rear exhaust which is one of the loudest exhaust systems out there. I think it is the best location when paired with an amp and decent speakers.

    It is not, but it can be easily unplugged and thrown in the glove box when needed. The bottom of the unit has a type of sticky rubber that keeps it from sliding and is not permanently fixed to the dash using 3M tape or the like. Just make sure that the end of the cord is dry (usually by blowing on it) before you plug it back in. When the bottom loses it's stickiness I run it under the kitchen faucet on a low trickle being careful not to get the top or port wet. Just put your finger over the port. Let it air dry and the stickiness comes right back.

    The best way to get accurate speedometer readings after installing larger wheels is to get a GPS HUD. I have this one purchased from Amazon for $35 and I think it is a great mod to boot :…tle_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    It comes with a long enough USB cord to plug into the port in the glove box and routed along the firewall so installation was simple. I had to make some adjustments to mine out of the box but instructions are easy to understand and there is even a You Tube video. A simple and economical fix to the problem.

    To truly get good sound from the system you are also going to need an amplifier. Especially if you are adding subwoofers. The radio itself does not enough power. Also there are no simple plug and play ways. You are going to have to either pay someone or have a friend with some experience help you.

    Don't know really. I have the upper brow switchback leds installed and tapped into the stock wireing . After doing an inspection for a short I found nothing but now they work. It's weird I know. I was especially surprised that something near the front turn signal would also effect the rear. And the leds have been installed for over a year with no problems. Hmmmm.

    Here's a couple of pics of my slingshot that I modeled after the old TV Batmobile. Its been updated even further with new seats and a quad tip rear exhaust that I painted red inside the tips just like the Barris Batmobile. I also switched the pinstriping from red to a red chrome that I found on ebay that matched the red chrome on the wheels real well. I'll update the pic after my next detail of the sling.

    The double bubble windscreen would be more fitting but I don't think I would like the cyclone effect in the cockpit.

    It's been over two weeks and the service department finally got back to me. Polaris will cover the part but not the labor on the new angle drive, I was told labor will come in at $300. Not to bad for being out of warrantee. Looking forward to getting those new coil overs.

    I have the 1320 rear exit quad tip exhaust and 1320 header V1 recently installed. There are not any speed bumps near me but there are plenty of railroad tracks that I cross. Some in pretty bad shape too. I have not had any issues with them. What I have noticed is a bunch of black carbon in the two center exhaust ports and I get an occasional backfire at the end of first gear when I drive aggressively. Thinking I need to get Bob's or ZZP's tune.

    First to answer some questions. No I have never changed the oil in the drive. I have read that you can put heavier oil in it to quiet it down but that never has been an issue with me. When it broke I was going straight with about 5k- 6k rpms in 2cd gear. I don't think being in a turn should matter any.

    I just got off the phone with my dealer and he tells me that there is hope for a replacement. He stated that Polaris knows that there is an issue with the drives and are working with them. He told me that they just did one last week ( out of warrantee ) and that Polaris covered the part but not the labor because the customer had 22" wheels on it. Polaris is trying to blame part of the problem on wheel size. First thing he asked be was what size wheels I had. I have 20" customs all the way around. He then asked if I still had the originals. I do. He said put them back on and bring it in.

    The dealer has to take pictures of the angle drive along with all three wheels to get approval from Polaris. He said that Polaris is one of the better companies that he deals with and are standing behind their product even when out of warrantee so fingers crossed. I also put on a 1320 rear exhaust last month and will put the original back on just in case they use that as an issue. The new exhaust really does add more power in the low end when it broke. Makes me wonder if that could have contributed to the problem so I am not taking chances.

    I'll keep you posted on the verdict. It might be awhile as I am sure the service department is swamped this time of year.

    So I was turning onto the main highway and really getting it. When I shifted to 2cd I heard the worst sound ever of metal clanking. I pulled over thinking it was my transmission. Looking on the underside I seen that the casing on the angle drive was blown out. I have a 2016 1/2 and had the angle drive replaced with a recall in July of 2017. After getting towed home I jumped online to look for the part. That S.O.B. is $1559. I have less than 8k miles on it however it is now out of warrantee. I saved up some money and was about to pull the pin on some new coil-overs. I'm disgusted that I'm going to have to spend that money on an angle drive. Do you think a dealer will be able to help or am I screwed?


    Hello Red Rocker,

    I purchased the 2016 base model without a stereo. I have done months of research including talking to "audio guys" before I made my purchase. I have spent more on my speaker pods $600 than my entire system.

    I went with a Rockville Marine amp with Bluetooth because I did not want a head unit and would Bluetooth off my phone. I bought an 1500 w 8ch amp for $150. If you are not wanting to hook up a subwoofer you can get a 4ch Rockville for less than $100. I like the Rockville, it is the best bang for the buck, and made in the USA. I cant see paying loads of cash for a premium amp in an open cockpit vehicle. You just will not be able to hear the difference in the wind.

    I mounted the amp under the drivers seat like you plan to do. I had to cut about a 1 1/4" hole with a hole saw near the floor going out to the battery box. You wire the amp straight to the battery for power. The amp comes with a wire that you have to spice into something that turns on when you start the SS. This keeps the amp from always being on and draining the battery. I went to the cigarette lighter in the glove box but you can probably go to the Stereo. You will have to wire your stereo to the amp by going under the SS to the battery then into the hole you cut. The speaker wires go out that hole as well then route to the individual speakers. You will have to take body panels apart so everything remains hidden.

    I don't know what you plan on doing for speakers but I wouldn't buy two new ones and use the two stock ones. Any speakers you buy will undoubtable be better than the weak sock ones. You want to make sure all your speakers have the same output or the weaker ones will distort. I went with Polk 6.5 Marine speakers because they can handle a lot of power, up to 100w RMS, and are very reasonable at $40 a pair. They were also recommended to me by a friend that is into car audio and knows his stuff.

    The bottom line is that I am very happy with my setup. It is very loud and clear. I was surprised that I didn't have to spend hundreds more to get sound this good. If you have anymore questions I am here to help.

    Welcome gentleman. I grew up on the south east side @CHGOSLINGSHOT. 106th and Ave J to be more specific. I now live in LaPorte, IN about 50mins east of you. Not too far if your ever looking for a friend to ride with. I still have plenty of friends left " in the hood."

    So the secret is in the towels. I have a number of the large double ply microfiber towels to use. Last spring my SS was full of swirl marks. It took the purchase of two polishers and at least 6 different products before I found the right combination that did the job. Not to mention about 20 man hours. What got the job done was a Grott DA polisher used with Meguires Ultimate Compound. Stay away from the cheap $80 polishers. They don't have enough power.

    Because of all this time and money spent I became anal about how I clean my ride and what I use. I stopped using my California Duster and now use a leaf blower to remove most the water before I dry with microfiber. It has become a real process that keeps me from washing my SS as much as I would like. I had used detail spray in combination with microfiber in the past on a dirty SS. I thought that this was the cause of my problems. However, I also use to use an old terry cloth bath towel to dry it after washing. It sounds like that was the real culprit.

    Thanks for the tips.