Posts by ITZQUIK

  • SENA “CAVALRY” Half-Helmet w/Bluetooth: Opinions?

    Has anyone any experience with using the new SENA CALVARY half-helmet in their Slingshot? We’ve been investigating various intercom system choices to add to our current half-helmets, and we came across this new product. (Believe it became available in the February time frame).


    Helmet has some interesting features based on their SENA 10R unit that are built-in (concealed): Bluetooth 4.1 capability, HD Speakers, Noise Control Technology Microphone (no boom Mic), FM radio, and more (see sena.com for full details).


    We are considering switching to all new helmets with the technology built in, rather than trying to add-on a SENA system to our half-helmets (which would require using a boom mic, attaching speakers, etc). The Helmets are bit pricey at $349 per, but maybe worth it for a quality helmet with good performing electronics that are conveniently built-in.


    Any feedback? Thanks in Advance


    (Note: No, I am not a vendor, nor endorsing this product. Would just like to get reviews :thumbsup: or :thumbdown: [ from SS owners that have used one)

  • Crazy videos from the web!

    Quote from Tripod

    You Want This Bizarre Honda Goldwing-Powered Three-Wheeler Thing

    Wow, flash from the past. Over ~35 years ago I saw an add in a magazine (Popular Mechanics or something similar) and I sent away for the plans on how to build the "Tri-Magnum" 3-Wheel Kit car. Something I though would be interesting to build, but never did. I think I still have the instruction booklet and Blue-Print style drawings they sent to me buried somewhere at home.
    Maybe that was in my subconscious when I first learned of the SS, and my initial reaction was "I gotta have one... "

  • Hood Latch (Rear) Won’t Release: Suggestions/Help?

    Quote from Slingrazor

    Curious as to how the front latch released?

    If you mean curious why the cable wire to the front latch broke; I agree. I can feel the frayed strands of the broken cable just where it exits the slot where the cable normally connects to the hood lever. Hard to see what the wire may have been "rubbing against", if something like this caused the break.


    Perhaps just a defective/weak cable to begin with? Once the broken part is removed it may be possible to see what went wrong. I'll ask the Polaris mechanic for his opinion on what was root cause just in case there may be some kind of adjustment that could prevent this kind of breakdown

  • Hood Latch (Rear) Won’t Release: Suggestions/Help?

    And now for the rest of the story...


    I was able to use the large screwdriver (in the wheel well) to get the passenger side Rear and Front latches to release. Once the hood was up, a closer look at the mechanism confirmed my suspicion: a cable had broken, only not where I expected.


    There are two cables attached to the end of the hood release lever. The cable running to the passenger side latches was broken off right at the hood lever. (see missing cable in photo).


    This is an item that will be repaired under warranty, once my dealer orders up the replacement cables (Going to insist they replace both sides rather than wait for the other side to break later on).


    I've attached a parts diagram showing the cable for those that may need to order a new cable should theirs decide to break. (see Item #1, P/N: 2635374)



  • Hood Latch (Rear) Won’t Release: Suggestions/Help?

    Fla Tom, Thanks for taking the time to shoot & post some pictures, really appreciate it! Should help me while I'm poking around trying to release the stuck rear latch.


    Joker 256, Thanks for posting the video, I had not seen this one yet. (Noel does some great stuff!) The explanation on checking the latches for simultaneous opening & how to adjust them is great! Just what I'm going to check on & adjust once I get my hood open again.


    This Forum and its members are making America Great Again one Slingshot at a Time!

  • Hood Latch (Rear) Won’t Release: Suggestions/Help?

    Thanks for the replies Fla Tom & Live-a-Little


    As I mentioned, the front latch seems to be releasing OK, so using a screwdriver to access & manually release the front latch may not help release the back latch. I'll give it a try, but based on what I'm hearing when depressing the lever, I'm not sure the front latch is still connected by the cable to the back latch.


    I'll re-post an update when I know more (screwdriver works), or if the Polaris service folks figure it out...

  • Hood Latch (Rear) Won’t Release: Suggestions/Help?

    (Apologies in advance if this has been addressed before, I could not find it using the search function.)


    HELP! After 1.5 years of trouble free operation & many openings, my Rear Passenger-side hood latch now won’t release ?( (Front passenger-side latch, & both drivers side latches seem to release OK).


    I noticed when I last depressed the hood release lever, it sounded odd. Normally I can hear the “clicks” of the hood latches releasing on both sides, but this last time it was silent on the passenger rear side. I’ve tried depressing/jiggling the lever multiple times, pulling up on that rear hood corner while depressing the lever, and even drove it around for ½ hour to see if that would jar something loose. No change, it still won’t release.
    Seems like the cable is no longer activating the rear latch, but hard to diagnose the problem when the hood is down & you can’t see the latch.


    My Question is: How to get the rear latch to release, so I can get the hood open? I don’t see a way to reach it via the wheel well. Can it be accessed from below if the SS was up on a rack?

    This can’t be the first SS this has happened to, there must be a way to get the rear latch to release. Hopefully my SS brothers can point me in the right direction on what to do or try next. :thumbsup:


    Note: My SS is scheduled later this week to have the recall/warranty work done. If I don’t have an answer by then, the Polaris Service Department will get to deal with this issue. (But I’d really like to know how to fix this myself in case it ever happens again)


    Reference Info: 2016 SL. Has stock hood latches and braces. Has never needed to be adjusted before. Always have closed the hood by “dropping” from 6” to 8” high & only occasionally needed to press down on hood to completely close a latch. Hood is never left open long-term, so warping should not be an issue.


    Thanks All :)

  • Question: What is best method to winch a SS onto a flatbed?

    After watching my brother’s car get winched onto a flatbed tow truck (he was rear-ended by an idiot driver on a cell phone) I started wondering about how a Tow Truck driver would get my SS onto a Flatbed if needed.


    In other words: Where is the best place to hook the winch cable to the SS to pull it onto a flatbed tow truck without causing any damage ?( (I.E. Best SS attachment points either from the front or the rear. Also, any Ground or Body clearance issues?). Anyone had a good experience/recommendation they can share?



    I looked in the SS Owner’s Manual; all it offers is “…cannot be towed by a conventional tow truck”… use a trailer or flatbed truck”. No recommendations on where to “hook-up” a winch cable. (Sorry in advance if this has been covered before, I searched but could not find any related posts).


    Hopefully I'll never need to use this info, but better to be prepared in advance vs trying to figure it out while shook-up (or pissed off) on the side of the road . Thanks!

  • Anyone install 4pt. harnesses and keep the factory seats?

    Hey WraithSS, thanks for the additional feedback. Rock & Nemesis 1701, thanks for your comments too.


    Appreciate being able to get different perspectives on the issue before pulling the trigger on a new purchase. Always good to be able to benefit from the advice of those that have "been there /done that".


    I suspect personal preference in seat belts, and how one will be driving the SS will play the main part in determining what's best for each owner. The feedback helps us prioritize what may be the "Good, Better, Best" solution for our situation.


    I think we'll probably order the 4 point PRP belts now along with the Harness bar, and accelerate our decision to change-out the seats (probably to the PRP seats). We'll probably also leave the stock seat belts in place to have the choice of which seat belts to use, depending on the days driving plans.


    Thanks All!


    (P.S. Today was a great 200 plus mile day, doing a run from the CA central valley up to the pacific coast (Half Moon Bay) and back again, using back roads where ever we could find them :-)

  • Anyone install 4pt. harnesses and keep the factory seats?

    Thanks WraithSS for the feedback. Interesting that Slingmods feels the 4 point PRP harness is acceptable for use with the factory seats...
    PRP Seats are on our future wish list, but we were hoping to use the factory seats a while longer, but improving our safety now with an alternative to the factory seat belts.


    For my own education, can you tell me why the factory seat is on the "do not" install list for a 4 point harness? Is the 4 point seat belt set-up less functional/safe, say for instance if the SS was involved in a side impact event? Obviously with the factory seat the upper straps are not as "contained" in their positions (vs the way they would be with a seat back style with a hole in it for the straps).


    One last question (just wondering out loud) what is Safer in a general sense: The factory seats and seat belts, OR the factory seats and a 4 point seat belt harness (Like the PRP set-up. Either using a Harness bar, or mounting upper straps to the Roll bar mounting bolts)


    Thanks

  • Anyone install 4pt. harnesses and keep the factory seats?

    We have the stock seats in our SL, and we want to install the PRP 4.2 seat belts from Slingmods. When I inquired with Slingmods if the PRP seat belts could be installed using the "attach to the roll bars mounting bolts method", their reply was "... the Madigan Motorsports Harness Bars will be required to properly mount the upper two points of the PRP 4.2 harnesses".


    My question: Are the harness bars just the Slingmods "preferred" method of attaching the seat belts? Do the harness bars really offer an advantage or superior passenger protection vs mounting the upper two points of seat belt to the roll bar bolts? (Note: I'm 6'6" tall; given my height is one mounting method recommended over the other for safety or comfort?) I understand Slingmods may not be able to recommend the mounting of upper straps to the roll bar bolts due to liability concerns...


    Minor concerns: Not sure from looking at the pictures, but will the Madigan Harness Bar prevent the seat back from being fully back & reclined? (With my size, I don't want to give up any room). Also, it looks like the Harness bar may make it a little more difficult to access the "storage area" under the black plastic covering under the passenger roll bar.


    Without using the Harness Bars, I have no problem cutting the belt slots in the body work as others have done. If I go this route it looks like I may also need to separately purchase the mounting brackets that can attach the belt straps to a bolt location (since it seems these wont be included with the PRP belts)


    Thanks for any advice