Posts by ITZQUIK

    @KayTwo
    Here are myTall Ripper WS photos:
    1 - overall front view
    2 - closer look at two "vents" (holes) for cockpit airflow. Note: Ripper requires two holes to be drilled for the 2 push pins in center
    3 - shows side mounting point moved upwards ~1 inch (plastic cap over the factory WS mounting hole)
    4 - shows whats visible of the new mounting screw location with hood closed
    5 - side view showing overall angle and smooth flow/line of top edge of WS
    6 - Center post with spacers to tilt up the WS angle (Fat rubber spacer comes with Ripper, the thinner one I added for more tilt)
    (note: 1' Al tube painted black with plastic end caps, mounted on center support post so Rear-View mirror mount is ~1.5" higher so I have a nice steady rear view looking over the rear deck)


    KayTwo, I'll try tomorrow to post a few photos of my Tall Ripper and the mods I did .


    As for the seat mount mod, I know lowering the seat 3/8" in the back is not a lot, but when you're tall every little bit helps. The back mounting points on the seats have a block of metal I removed by grinding them off. Was a pain to get them off, but I figured if I didn't like the results I could always add some washers back in to bring the seat rail back up to original height. I didn't take a before picture, but I did find two pics of the seat mounting rail after the metal was removed


    Rob, glad yours was fixed, your VIN may have been in the range designated by the Polaris to be affected, so yours was fixed when your swing arm was replaced. In my case, I requested the work (covered in T-16-02: replace Stat-O-Seals) to also be done, but the service department refused, saying because my VIN was outside the "affected range", it was not required, they only did the new Brake Bleed procedure.


    Now I am getting the Brake Failure Light (and soft brakes again). Is it due to defective Brake Pressure Switch(es), or is it possibly related to over-tightening of the Stat-O-Seals during the initial factory installation? Who knows? (I don't see an obvious leak, but that doesn't mean air might not be making its way into the system)


    Either way, to fix the Brake Failure Light issue, I am requesting they replace the 2 Brake pressure switches (under warranty) so new seals will be required during the switch installation. Hopefully they will be installed correctly (not potentially "crushed")

    From the NHTSA Safety Recall Report (see attached files for full details) Brake Pressure Switch / Brake Line Banjo joints (can be) over torqued, resulting with the steel portion of the Stat-O-Seal yielding. (Two Stat-O-Seals are used on each Banjo Joint.)


    This is covered under the Polaris Technical Service Bulletin: T-16-02

    Our “Taller” Windshield Solution: :thumbsup:
    Driving the SL home from the dealer with the stock windshield quickly confirmed the need for a change. Too much wind buffeting in the cockpit, wind blast directly at my head and left shoulder, could not hear the radio above 35 MPH, & conversation with passenger was difficult/impossible. (For reference; I’m 6’6”, 290 lbs., 37” inseam). We were seriously considering ordering the F4 windshield, (the plus 3 or 5), but wanted to see one in-person first.


    However, after several days we returned to our dealer for the 500 mile service. We were discussing windshields and guess what; they had a new Polaris Ripper “Tall” windshield in stock. The service department agreed to temporarily install the windshield on our SS & let me take it for test drive it to see how it worked for me. (Note: we left the protective film cover in place on the WS, in case we didn’t want to buy it. It looked funny to see me driving with the WS covered up, but I was able to see over the top edge so no problems)


    Much better wind protection than stock! It’s taller than OEM Blade WS, and has a rubber spacer on the center support that tilts the WS more upright. Also the two “vents” in the lower center areas really helps with the airflow in the cockpit.


    To further optimize wind flow, I later made a few more adjustments:
    (1) Crafted an additional rubber spacer to add to the center support arm, which tilts the windshield even further upright. This does not raise the windshield top edge above my line of sight, but did help direct the air flow even higher over our heads. (a longer Allen-head bolt needed to be used through both spacers)


    (2) On each side, I moved the WS mounting position holes “up” about an inch. This raised the WS height further on each side/end, and better aligned the overall WS tilt angle in front of the driver & passenger with the increased tilt from the additional center spacer. Note: This required drilling 2 new mounting holes and using new hardware (Stainless Bolts, Fender Washers, Rubber Washers, etc)


    (3) When the stock seats were out (to install the Gen II floor mats) I noticed on the seat mounting brackets, the rear mounting positions have a welded-on metal spacer about 3/8 “thick. I decided to remove these from the driver’s seat base, which lowered the drivers seat height.


    Overall result: Improved airflow that goes “over” our helmets, minimized cockpit buffeting, better conversations and radio sound even on the freeway. I’m still able to see just over the top edge of the windshield vs looking through it. The WS is very stable, no flexing at higher speeds. And I like the look of the sharp angles of the top edge of the Ripper that goes with the SS styling.


    PS: I know, I know; photos or it didn't happen. :/ I don't have any handy, but if anyone is interested I can take a few & post them later

    Lookslike it’s my turn now. :( The BrakeFailure Light just started coming on when driving and cruise control won’twork (no error codes seen on the dash). Brake reservoir is full, so that’snot the issue. Light goes away after restarting. Sounds like the classic symptoms of the brakesensor(s) going bad.


    Coming up on my 10K mile service, and also only have about40 days left on my factory 2 year warranty period. Guess its betterthat it started acting up now vs after the warranty has expired.


    I was considering asking how much the dealer would charge tojust replace the brake fluid if I did all the other required 10K service items(oil change and various inspections. Still wondering how to"lubricate as directed" the control cables, but that’s another story).


    NowI’m going request them to replace the brake pressure switches (both) and seals while it’sstill under warranty, and also ask for the fluid to be replaced at the sametime.



    SideNote: At ~ 6.5K miles when I had the other warranty issues fixed (swing armreplace, fuel line replace, steering bolt fix, brake bleeding, ECU flash update)The dealer had told me per my VIN, I did Notneed the brake Stat-O-Seal replacement (T-16-02). After they did the brake bleed using the newprocedure, I had hard brakes (Yes! Nodouble pumping needed :thumbsup: ). However, overthe last few thousand miles, I’ve noticed the brakes getting continuouslysofter, to the point they again need double pump for hard stops. Seems like more evidence the Stat-O-Sealreplacement work needs to be done!

    Thanks for checking your service manual. Curious that this is listed in the Periodic Maintenance Chart in the 2015 Owners Manual (see attached) , but is not mentioned in the SS service manual? (Note the page prior in the owners manual states the "L" indicates: "Lubricate as Directed". Directed where I wonder?)


    I had similar thoughts on what cables this might cover:
    - Hood latch cables
    - E Brake (Parking brake) cable
    - Brake cable going to rear brake
    - are there gas pedal or clutch cables?


    Guess I'll ask this question at my Polaris Dealer service department and see what they can tell me

    In the SS owners manual, on the Periodic Maintenance Chart, it indicates at every 10K miles to “Lubricate as Directed” the Control Cables.


    Can someone with a Service Manual assist and provide some Guidance? I.E. which Control Cables, and Where and How to Lubricate ?


    Thanks in advance (PS - I apologize if this has already been covered & I missed it. The search function pulled up only one relevant hit but it contained no helpful info)

    or, (if I'm allowed to guess twice) could this be the Original Roake's location on SE McLoughlin Blvd in Milwaulkie Oregon?

    Darn, I saw the thread title & got excited for a moment, I thought this might be referring to the "Skyline Blvd" in CA which is great Motorcycle ride (State Hwy 35)


    (Just south of the SF Bay-Area, Skyline Blvd is a curvy mountain top ride and has a fun stopping point at "Alice's Restaurant". Remember that Arlo Guthrie song? (and film) "You can get anything you want at Alice's Restaurant..." )


    Oh well, have a good ride East-Coast SS Brothers & Sisters!

    Love all the different ideas for a wing to add to the back. I too have been daydreaming over different ideas since I bought the SS. My idea however goes in another direction from what has been suggested so far (I think it may stem from my younger days and building Model Jet planes: one of my favorites was the NF-104).


    I like the idea of adding a wing shape to the TOP of the vertical fin. Could be swept back or forward, or not swept at all (not sure if forward swept would clear the roll bars…). I even toyed with the idea of modifying a limousine trunk-mounted “boomerang” antenna to go on top the fin (But it still looked too much like a dam boomerang)


    Anyway, just another idea to stir the design pot …
    T-Tail no.2.pdfT-Tail no. 1.pdfT-Tail no.3.pdf
    (P.S. I have a another idea (non-wing) to dress up the SS rear area below the deck, pictures will follow shortly, once I get my build finished & installed)

    Just ordered a set of the Grand Touring from Henry. Looking forward to the better ride on some of these bumpy California roads!