Posts by TravAZ

    @FunCycle


    Two lanes and he was in the right lane. I don't see an issue with his lane position during the run. To me, it just looks like the braking area was pretty short and narrow.


    A lot of these cars are now going over 200mph in a half mile. He definitely had issues after the run when trying to slow down. I would blindly guess that maybe it was a chute issue, but I haven't read anything specific to this incident. Either way, there was very little room for error.

    ^ Agree with the above.

    It is a R compound tire and is meant to be used as a drive to the dragstrip in fair weather, make passes, and drive home in fair weather. Not really a good choice for a SS.

    On the west coast, used junkyard 2.4s are going for $600 - $850. These all have considerable miles though; usually around 80-120k. The rare finds that are under 50k miles go for $1,000 to $1,500. There isn't really a noticeable price difference between the Slingshot style engine/block and the newer "better" blocks that you would likely use when building a forged engine.

    A low mileage Slingshot take out engine shouldn't be priced the same as a junkyard engine. A higher mileage junkyard motor should be gone through with at least a new timing set.

    I would price the engine around $1,500 and the transmission at $1,000. Shipping is what always makes these sales difficult.


    There are events at that track with Pro Motorsports where I worked to get the Slingshot approved. It was March 17th and 18th. Look for the new schedule to come out for 2019, sign up for the New Member program, and go enjoy yourself!

    Group Page: http://www.new.proautosports.com/
    2018 Schedule: http://new.proautosports.com/f…18%20EVENT%20SCHEDULE.pdf

    Chuckwalla is usually February or March, so I would expect a weekend in those months in 2019 too.

    I worked really hard to get the Slingshot approved with a club/group and went to a bunch of events. I created special pages/posts and never got any real interest from other members, so I stopped wasting my time. All the leg work is done with Pro Autosports and it wasn't quick or easy. Do some research about their group on their website, go get signed up for an event, and have some fun!

    Sorry to de-rail this thread slightly @MACAWS.

    The biggest pickup in MPH will come from traction. It is always the downfall of the Slingshot. HP can conquer aerodynamics as shown in the yourtube video with Leroy as an example. The priority list in my book is below...

    • Traction
    • Power
    • Gearing / Aero

    I find it very interesting that with all of the people here and all of the time the Slingshot has been out that we still do not seem to have any consensus on what the top speed of a stock slingshot is.
    I just think it is really odd that we havent a large number of people find a nice long flat road and try to settle this, but then again I havent so I cant really complain can I


    What do you mean?!? This subject should have been settled forever ago. A stock Slingshot will go as fast as 4th gear allows. Many people have done this many times. 4th gear ends right around 135mph. If you are heading down a mountain, you can pick up some more speed in 5th gear. But should that really count?!

    On a different note. Below is a good video of another aerodynamically challenged vehicle. Some of the findings here in the wind tunnel may shed some light on where the Slingshot may have issues on cutting through the wind.


    Dave, I'm curious about something. I understand why there is a difference in the lateral weight on the front wheels, but why the difference on the rear wheels? Is that part of the loading from the front, or is there something on the back end that is also setting the weight off from side to side?


    Does the fuel load sit more to that side?

    Good to see you guys both made it over 140mph! :)

    If it were me, I would look long and hard on how far I could lower my Slingshot after removing the front lower nose. Something tells me if there is less air going under the Slingshot, you will see a big difference in drag from the big akward rear wheel. That area is a killer on the Slingshot.

    Also, I would be sure to run a low ripper windscreen and tape up some areas. Still have one for sale if someone is in need before the FL event....

    You can feel the difference, but does the difference matter...? that is up to you my friend. On the track it is easy to determine, because you can look at how lap times are effected. On the street, it is all about getting the feel you like and being able to outrun your buddies in the curves.

    If you want one, go for it. It is just money.

    I liked mine, but I didn't see seconds being dropped off of my lap times. The Slingshot just lacks too much rear traction to be pushed really hard where you might see a dramatic improvement. On the street, it felt better to me than stock and allowed me to run my shocks closer to 40 on softness, instead of 25.

    Just trying to help you out with what I have actually tried.The location of the holes change in relationship to the sway bar when the wheels are turned, it is not static.
    It will not work on the forward two holes without an offset.
    The picture are with the wheels turned full left to full right.
    For the money, the DDM is the better bar because of the installed stops.Give

    To get the perfect fit, without any sway bar tension, you really want to use adjustable end links. Alpha's adjustable end links were really nice and worked well, but were never fully released. When utilizing all 4 holes, you do move the endlink from back to front. For the 2 softer settings, you keep it in the stock rear placement. For the 2 stiffer settings, you switch the endlink to the other side so it is in the front. In this way, it doesn't bind as shown in the above pictures.

    Sway bars are great, but the majority of people (especially if you don't get to the track) won't feel the stiffness difference from running them on the softest setting compared to the stiffest setting. I have ran the Alpha sway bar with their endlinks on every setting while on the track and on the street. Setting up your shocks correctly and picking the proper tire/tire pressure make a much bigger differences than the sway bar setting.

    Don't complicate it. Pick what you like and Sling away.