Any brand recommendations for octane booster?
Octanium is made by VP Fuels which is very well known and reputable in the racing industry. It’s on the expensive side at $20 a can but I have used it in my Jeep Trackhawk and can vouch that it works well.
Looked up information on a pedal commander a few days ago to see how much it was and read some reviews. Looking to get rid of the lag in throttle response. Today I go on Facebook and there’s a $30 off code. Just placed my order it’s legit direct through pedal commander. Code is CDM30 good until May 5 you get $30 off the price of $299 and free shipping. Just thought I’d put it out there in case anybody’s on the fence about ordering.
Just a quick question. I have a 2016 1/2 Slingshot with an alpha turbo kit on it. Has 6500 miles on it Turbo has been on since 1000 miles. I have a couple cans of leftover unleaded octanium octane boost that I used for my track hawk which is now on E85. Will I have any issues using this in the Slingshot with the usual 93 octane I get. Don’t forsee any but didn’t know if the sensors would be affected or anything so I figured I’d ask before finding out the hard way. Thanks in advance for any input
One of the best mods yet. So much easier and smoother than the push buttons. They are locked or they are open no guessing and no wearing out the pins. Hood is locked down solid with no movement. Again you have to cut into the hood which once started there is no turning back
I put these on my $2000 carbon fiber hood on my Jeep Trackhawk. Because of being so light weight it wobbled in the front corners at highway speeds. Awesome mod and certainly gives you peace of mind that the hood isn’t going anywhere
Was luckily able to find a local guy selling the bullet V top that I’ve been wanting. Only issue was he had an orange SLR so it had an orange stripe down the center. Local shop took care of adding a custom stripe for me and now canvas is back on. Bring on the sun
Some how managed to find a local guy selling the bullet V top which is what I was going to order also. His sling was an SLR in orange madness so it had an orange stripe. Plan is to have local shop change out the stripe for red but in the meantime I wrapped the center stripe with some 3M carbon fiber I had laying around. Bought it yesterday and installed it this morning. Loving the look but haven’t taken it out yet for functionality
Changed out the factory seats for a set of Ciphers with red piping and while I had them out I installed a new amp for my under glove box 6.5 sub enclosure.
I recently just did a little overhaul on my garage...light was also lacking. I have two overhead fluorescent fixtures which I swapped out the bulbs to a 5k led...but then I also added these lights off amazon. They are linkable so I put one on each side of the center overhead lights and then linked a second one vertical down the center of the wall. Makes a tremendous difference and for very little $$. Also added a corrugated metal decor to bottom of the wall with a painted shelf to cover top edge and I did RGBW led lighting on the underside. Does help some but more of a visual effect than anything
Hykolity Linkable LED Shop Light for Garage, 4FT 36W Utility Light Fixture for Workshop Basement, 5000K Daylight LED Workbench Light with Plug[250W Equivalent] Hanging or Surface Mount, Black-4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T…_r_cp_api_i_DTcwEb2DHH7C6
Will-do! Recently I just put on a top and installed a NASCAR Style Windscreen. Get use to a lot of attention, people pointing, kids jumping and people snapping pictures! Kids love them (and so do a lot of older kids)! I like the white & black slings, looks sharp & Dave@ddmworks is the guru of performance! … and as they say welcome to the world of slingshot insanity!
was looking for one with a roof. Love the slingshade but not spending that kinda $$. More than likely go with the bullet V
Mikes16.5ss you can also add you location to your avatar... Welcome to the 'World of Slingshot Insanity"...get lots of seat time in before going to crazy with the mods.
thanks for the info. Got 11.5 hrs of seat time right off the bat driving it home. Only going to do some astetic mods which have already begun lol
Congratulations, looks awesome! I'm sure I'll see you down the road. I'm in South Jersey. Sometimes I head northbound with rides through Morristown, Cinnaminson and Riverton. Now if some of the continuous rain lets up and warmer temps arrive. Welcome aboard & Enjoy!
sweet. I’m right off route 130 in Cinnaminson. Have to meet up when the weather allows and talk sling and go for a cruise.
Welcome to the forum, is that Tommy's old Slingshot from Atlanta?
yes it was his. Lots of your parts on it and I know the turbo install was done in your shop
Congratulations Mike!
Welcome the land of miss fits and miss fit toys................
If you go to the owners map you should be able to find some local riding buddies. You may want to add you location so they can find you as well..
thank you. Where is this owners map your referring to. Searched the site but don’t see it.
Congrats!, that must have been a "cold" ride north...I used to live in Joisey before I gave up and moved to Florida.
that it was. Left there at noon it was 67 degrees. Got home at 11:30pm and it was 26 degrees. Luckily I had packed a riding jacket, gloves, balaclava etc but the think the pure adrenaline kept me from actually freezing 😂
Picked up a 2016.5 LE from Georgia about 3 weeks ago. I’m located in Cinnaminson which is southern NJ about 10 mins outside of Philadelphia. Had been looking for a few
months and finally found what I wanted. One owner, right color scheme and plenty of mods done including alpha turbo kit. Flew to Georgia and drove it back the 752 miles. Hoping to meet some local owners and cruise when the weather breaks.
Bought my 2016.5 LE slingshot from original owner about two weeks ago. Doing some aesthetic mods to personalize it and I hate the fact that the pedals have no covers and are very slippery. Anybody have any luck with any aftermarket companies that aren’t $150 for a set. I know they are some on some of the vendor sites and don’t understand why you can get it set for the later models for $80 but pay twice as much for the older models. I’m sure some of the universal ones sold on Amazon and eBay etc will work but figured I would ask here first. Hoping to find a red set to match red accents at a reasonable price.
Display MoreYep, inside your box, you're going to only run 3 short (<1') wires:
- From the Red inside box connector to the Positive of speaker #1
- From the Black inside box connector to the Negative of speaker #2
- From the Negative of Speaker #1 to the Positive of speaker #2.
Then you will only have the 1 pair of long wires (Pos & Neg) going from wherever your amp is to the speaker box connection red and black ports (red = pos & black = neg).
If you get it working and you still don't hear the bass you want, turn up the gain on the amp at little bit at a time until you like it.
OK. Thanks to all your info the install worked. I’m up and running now but just realized it’s not completely plug-and-play. Several adjustments that can be made underneath the Memphis faceplate. The only thing I was able to figure out was the Low pass filter...read that subwoofer should be in the 80-100hz range so I adjusted that. Obviously the control knob on the remote box I can use remotely to increase or decrease the level of bass once my passenger seat is reinstalled which is where the amp is mounted. How about the other dials. Was reading and got kind of confusing. Don’t want the amp to work too hard and possibly overheat. Sensitivity seemed to have the most effect on the thump of the bass
Display MoreMike,
Here's a picture to show what SlingLow was writing about:
By running them in Parallel, you are essentially halving the Ohm (Resistance); in Series you double it.
Since you have a 4 Ohm Amp, and the speakers are supposed to be 2 Ohm, you need to wire in Series as shown on the right side above (exactly what SlingLow said).
Presuming the amp is still good, and you see (or feel) movement in the speakers, they are working.
HOWEVER, let's put some caveats in there: You are running 6.5" subwoofers (Really, just mids with the input frequency turned down) in an open cockpit with the speaker location facing away from your listening position - four strikes against getting good bass. You are NOT going to get great thump. You're not going to feel it in your stomach. You will hear some bass guitar and drums when at a stop light and the engine is idling, but that's it.
If you're wanting to really feel some thump, you will need to put 10" (or 12") subwoofers in a proper enclosure right behind your seat facing your back. And keep the stereo turned up and the engine rpm turned down. (Mind you, I am not telling you to do this - I am merely suggesting a realignment of expectations of what these speakers can do.)
Does what I just said in the above post makes sense?? Going to try it later but I wanna make sure I’m understanding it right. I agree with you on having the larger sub but I do not want to take up the area behind the seats were the storage compartments are. Just looking for a little bit of extra because the subs were already there and the factory sound system is very tinty sounding to me. All highs with no bass
Display MoreThanks Mike,
I assumed you had the JL speakers that came in the boxes (at least the 3 I have seen had).
Did you try to only connect one speaker and see how that worked? From what I am seeing your speakers are 2 ohm each so bridged they will overdraw your amp.
At this point, from what I can tell you have a few of options.
1) Buy a 2 Channel 2 ohm marine amp.
2) Replace those speakers with 150 Watt 4 ohm units so bridged they are 2 ohm.
3) Buy my new in the box (Factory taped) 10 Inch JL audio stealthbox for $600 and sell those under the dash units
3a) [[unknown Marketplace item]]
Happy hunting sir.
I appreciate the offer on trying to sell me your unit but these already came with it and I like the fact that it’s pretty much concealed under the glove box and doesn’t take up any storage space. After just talking with the tech support at Memphis, it seems my only issue is the way the subs are wired in the box. Original owner wired them in parallel had them run in parallel...the tech tells me if I run each speaker in series (each sub has 2 sets of +/- one on either side...jump one + on one side to one - on opposite side of same sub to create a 4 ohm situation then run the remaining +/- back to the amp and do this for both subs) they will go from 2 ohm to 4 ohm because of the jumper and then run them parallel to the amp it will power at 300W at 2 ohms. Doesn’t make sense to me but I’m going to try it
Mike,
I have heard several of those under the dash 6.5's and none of them had any noticeable bass what so ever.
BKL is correct to a degree, you actually drop those puppies down to 1 ohms when you ran the wires like that so that is the first thing to check. Assuming you have a mono channel amp (based on your description) I would just remove one of the sets of wiring and ensure you have the Low pass set to filter out any highs from those Jl's and give it a whirl.
You will know in a few seconds if that was the issue. If not you may have popped the AMP as suggested due to the power draw.
Good luck brother.
I just updated the post with some more info responding to BKL. I’m very mechanically inclined and have plenty of electrical experience however have never dabbled with stereo so this is all new to me. Appreciate any input you can provide. Thanks
