Posts by Flybuddy

    Always liked the looks of the T-Rex but not the price.

    As far as social distancing on the road, we've got it tougher than most as people still want to get up close and ask questions. Stopped for gas last week and an old Harley guy came up and wanted to BS about 3 wheelers. Trouble was that he was hard of hearing and liked to be 6 inches from my face. You can't move away much when you're attached to a pump handle.

    Stopped by dealer this morning to get an engine code removed (they did it for free). Got my first close up look at a 2020 that was delivered there yesterday. Overall all I was impressed. The cockpit comes across more high end than the old. Motor install looks really clean with a lot of anti heat protection under the hood. Firewall had good insulation, battery on forward right where it gets air, aluminum shrouds over exhaust manifold and muffler, fuse box forward for air flow also. Sales guys were happy about the auto trans saying that was their biggest problem with many past sales and the tech guys had almost no concerns with it (said it was louder) but too soon for them. I questioned reliability on a new, ground up engine and their response was that it had a full 2 year warranty. Time will tell but it's about time they did a major shakeup in the line instead of minor tweaks.

    One update to the above worth mentioning is that if you do the voltage test above you have to reconnect the battery and turn the ignition switch on. Doing this with other sensors unplugged will cause numerous trouble codes to pop up after the job is complete. A few trips and they will all go away except for the 65551 knock sensor code which must be removed by a dealer with digital wrench.

    Many of the issues being stated against Boeing are oversimplifications brought about by a press with little understanding of all things aviation coupled with politics.

    The association with the FAA and the in company designees are normal procedures for the FAA and not exclusive to Boeing. Even General aviation is full of independent designated examiners, designated airworthiness reps and Authorized inspectors. It's the way they work via managed delegation and it's made for the safest system in the world.

    Boeing engineers meant for the new auto-trim system to be a work in the background system with the thought process that any trim system can fail and that pilots normally know how to deal with it. Unfortunately, aircraft have become so highly automated that newer pilots sometimes lack basic flying skills, especially with less detailed training in some foreign carriers.

    IMO, a lot of folks have an innate need to be able to place blame squarely at a specific place. This way they can then be less apprehensive about the "fix".

    In this case the fix isn't just Boeing, we need to address the outdated certification process as well as new pilot training to enhance basic stick and rudder skills.

    Running a negative diatribe on the internet simply adds to the uncertainty of the Max ever being certified again. No one in the government will ever sign it off if the general public thinks like BD does. As it stands now, the basic problem has been long since been fixed BUT since no wants to have their name or department on the approval, they keep coming up with oddball issues, some of which exist on current flying aircraft of similar type.

    Our country, the FAA and the airline industry have done an excellent job making us safe in the skies but it will never been 100% (watch some Air Disaster episodes). Even taking a shower doesn't have a 100% safety factor.

    If it is in fact another bad sensor, it should be covered by Polaris. A new part has to have at least a 90 warranty if not a full year. It might be worth checking with your dealer to see what they have to say

    Probably true but a bit of a hassle going back to them. The part is cheap ($16) and last time I had mentioned that I thought my putting in 4 gallons of 89 octane non ethanol (left over hurricane gas) might have caused problem ( I always use 93--Bob Tune). I initially went there just to get code cleared, which they did for free, and told them the above. Several days later code popped again and they remembered my prior admission and wanted to charge me for sensor replacement. I logically explained that I had drained all fuel after first code and it shouldn't have recurred. Thankfully they agreed with me.

    For those who need to do this themselves, there is no way to get at it from bottom (I tried). Intake manifold needs to come off. Not difficult but a bit of a knuckle scraper. The clean hole on the bottom right is where the knock sensor goes. Also, there's a test you can do to see if the circuits are functioning correctly. Just put the positive tip of a multimeter into one of the sensor plug holes and the negative tip to a ground (Ignition switch on) and record the reading, do the same with the other terminal. If the voltages fall into the ranges from the repair manual (below), you're good to go.


    Electric vehicle battery packs generally come with excellent warranties and are very reliable. At the point that Chevy had sold 100,000 Volts (shocking :)), there hadn't been one pack failure (8 years). There are very good onboard systems that completely regulate the charge cycle and battery temps, which have their own liquid cooling.

    With Lithiums it's all in the programming....Tesla data, which is extensive, shows a 10% degradation after 160,000 miles. On the flip side, the Nissan Leaf had serious battery degradation problems for a while till they changed their programming. The Leaf never had a fast charge option, where the majority of the Teslas do. I doubt the few college engineers doing the study had anywhere near the level of expertise that Tesla engineers have in doing a charging algorithm which is critical.