Posts by Bill from Hahn RaceCraft

Quote from Flybuddy

Also, there's a lot of overall opinions about poly vs spherical bearings and the gist seems to be poly for street and/or comfort and spherical for track and/or handling.

Flybuddy, I would generally agree, but I would also use this as an opportunity to emphasize that the type of spherical bearing in play here is a smoother, more forgiving animal than the all-metal solid spherical ends, which are the "traditional" design that preceded this rather recent design advancement. With a steel core, and a filled-nylon spherical socket, it's considerably less harsh in transferred force than the metal solid counterpart (see photo below).

For long term street use, anyone who has driven a machine equipped with all-metal spherical bearings can tell you it turns into a noisy, rattle-prone ride over time as the metal parts wear, causing clearance between them to increase. These hybrid sphericals don't wear like that, self-lubricated by the special nylon formulation, so they don't get noisy, loose and harsh. No not only are they "no slop", they are also more cushioned thanks to the nylon, but just not on the squishy, imprecise level of polys.

The best part is that if and when one does finally wear one of these hybrid bearings enough to actually warrant replacement, popping a couple of snap rings and a minuscule investment in replacement bearings will restore like-new smoothness.

So, the takeaway here is that not all solid/spherical bearings are created the same, and so comparisons have to be carefully examined for this detail. I can say with great certainty that I would be very unlikely to put a solid all-metal coilover bearing setup in any street car I drive, or that a customer drives. Been there, got over that. So, like many have, I'd just settle for poly bushings and deal.

Ah, but now, I feel empowered, as these hybrid spherical bearings have bridged the gap to a large degree: precise, bind-free movement without the noise and harshness of previous all-metal designs. It's truly a case of win/win, for there just was no way to get this level of on-road precision and response before without also suffering the harsh shortcomings and poor wear tendencies of all-steel bearings. This innovation actually really opens things up, for many more of us to enjoy this level of competence in suspension than ever before. I have been shown the light, and man, is it ever bright!

Quote from Speedr117

@Bill from Hahn RaceCraft, thank you for confirming! Do you sell other spring rates, and if so, what do they cost? This would be in addition to what comes on it. I'm thinking down the road for track days with special wheel/tires with increased grip.

You're most welcome.

Yes, while we feel strongly that this refined setup reaches a very broad swath of possible preferences, we won't turn away special requests from those who have specific intents. Ride smoothness is one of the most subjective aspects of vehicle preference in general, so there are bound to be some hardcore folks, and perhaps even some that want to walk softly. I'd be remiss to not solicit their business as well! As far as cost of custom spring packages, we'll cross that bridge soon enough I imagine, and I'll share more at that time.

Quote from Speedr117

@Bill from Hahn RaceCraft, can you confirm the spring rates, front and rear?

Indeed I can!

Bryan is correct, we've gone 250 front and 350 rear.

The spring rate strategy I am using is, like so many things we do here, ultimately a melding of automotive and motorcycle approaches...just like Slingshot is

Excellent input so far, and our current thread flavor does touch on an important part of the modern engine oil game that I'd like to expound upon a bit: Marketing.

Companies that are long on marketing are typically compensating for being short on something else. All too often, that something else is usually engineering and product development. That lavish marketing funding has to come from somewhere, after all, and R&D can be what suffers.

My strategy for both my own oil use, as well as what we advise customers, is fairly succinct: avoid the "boutique" brands (Amsoil, Royal Purple, the like) and rely on the larger well-known name brands like Castrol, Valvoline, Pennzoil, Mobil, the like. The name brands are much more likely to reflect state-of-the art chemical capability; the small brands, not so much. I have seen much carnage over the years that I have been able to directly correlate to use of boutique oils, and it's sharpened my sensibilities about who's offering what to us.

Now, I see we have an Amsoil fan here, and I will offer that of the smaller brands, I'd take Amsoil over many. Having been primarily aviation-based in its formative years has left Amsoil with a fairly competent product, as airplanes are certainly no place to cut corners. All the same, I still defer to the big players for being my preferred go-to. Probably because I don't make any money selling Amsoil

MAGGIE VALLEY INSTALLS!

Just a quick note to solidify the Maggie Valley details. We do intend to install these coilover systems at MV, involving both orders placed beforehand, as well as and new "walk-up" sales which are completed in MV. Of course, it's first come, first served, so we will complete any and all pre-order installs before serving new customers.

If you'd like us to install this coilover system at MV, instead of using the "slingshotinfo" code at checkout, use "maggievalleyinstall" instead. This will get you the coilover set at the forum special price, plus $100 for installation, and also won't charge you shipping, as we'll carry the coilover set to MV for you. We will contact all who use this code and schedule your install at Maggie Valley.

Installations will also include an orientation session with me to help familiarize you with getting the most out of this suspension upgrade.

Quote from Speedr117

Just to add my $0.02 to this. The main advantage of having both Rebound AND Compression adjustments is that you can solve a particular problem independently without affecting other handling attributes. The main function of Rebound dampening is to stop oscillation in the wheel movement. A classic example of lack of rebound is watching an old Cadillac hit a bump and see it bounce up and down multiple times. So if you hit a bump and you feel the bump a few times, then you know you need to tighten up the rebound. You have to be careful, though, as too much rebound will cause your suspension to "pack" down over multiple bumps in close succession, resulting in a loss of travel. To say it another way, with too much rebound, the shock won't let the wheel go back to it's original spot in the travel, then comes another bump, and it again compresses the shock, and again doesn't allow it to recover. So let's say there was 3 inches of travel: after the first bump, it goes down to 2 1/2, then the second bump it's 2, etc. So always start out with less rebound and then slowly increase it. Compression is much easier since it really is how fast you want the shock to compress, regardless of spring tension. So if you want less dive on the brakes or in the corners, add more Compression. Again, too much and you'll skip across bumps since you'll reduce the shock to just a solid support. Hope this helps

Good stuff. Speedr represents the more in-depth end of the range of enthusiasts, having played this game before...and will benefit nicely from having independent rebound and compression adjustments in the double-adjustable version. I hope to see useful feedback from those like him, which will assist others in finding their own "sweet spots" with this combination. It has a great pedigree so far, and as we expand the knowledge base to include more folks, everyone will benefit.

Quote from Flybuddy

For those of us just looking for a smoother ride and wanting to keep stock vehicle height are the single adjustables worthwhile or do we really need the doubles? Also, can you give an idea on install cost at MV? thx

Great question, and thank you for asking. The single adjustables are top-flight stuff as well. Frankly, they still contain enough adjustability that they will satisfy all but the most discerning (and experienced) handling enthusiast. On the other hand, it can also be said that one can edge closer to becoming that discerning and experienced handling enthusiast if one has the best tools to learn with. For those who truly aspire, and/or perhaps also don't revel in the idea of buyer's remorse later (should they end up coveting those double adjustables after all)...they may consider going full boat double-adjustable right from the start.

Of course, all the adjustability in the world isn't worth much if one doesn't use it and optimize it. Double adjustables provide a nearly unlimited number of things to try, and play with, and mull over, and try again, and that's the fully realized fun and challenge of them. For those simply looking to increase the machine's prowess, and perhaps also better accommodate a non-stock wheel/tire combo, the single adjustables will more than suffice.

As an aside for all, I'd like to also add that non-stock brake combos can also add considerable unsprung weight to the machine, further pushing the stock coilovers out of their comfort zone, and further making the case for an adjustable alternative...one that can be calibrated to the new tasks at hand, not struggling to deal with a non-stock combo it was never designed to interact with in the first place.

Quote from Speedr117

Ordered! Of course, I was in such a hurry that I forgot to add the forum discount code to the order and had to email back asking to have it added to the order. LOL!

Bill, 2 questions for you: The shocks lower the Slingshot 3/4 to 1 inch lower. Why the range? Is it base vs. SL tire differences? Also, you said they'd go out next week. Is that early next week? Just want to make sure they're on, "tested", and adjusted on some back roads before Maggie Valley.

Thanks! Can't wait to try these!

Thank you very much, Speedr! We will credit you back the discount code.

The range I offer, of 3/4" to 1" lower as shipped, is what we'd refer to in the machining world as a "tolerance". Rather than state a single specific number that may, or may not, repeat to that very figure, I have essentially added a "plus of minus" of 1/8" in each direction, for a total range of 1/4". More than anything, this is intended to temper folks' expectations of exactitude, and it also helps account for minor weight differences that may occur from Slingshot to Slingshot based on accessories, model, etc.

The ride height remains completely adjustable, of course, and you can alter it to whatever you prefer. As they come, there is about 1" left of lowering room, for those who simply have to leave sparks at night...and they can also be raised considerably, to stock or even taller than stock should one desire.

As to shipping time, I don't have things quite nailed down to the day just yet...but I will make every effort to get them our early next week for MV. As a backup plan, we do plan to be installing these at MV, and should the inevitable push meet the unavoidable shove, we'll just mount you up there

Quote from rabtech

If I say something that Bill has already said just ignore me. It was late when I saw his thread and I just skimmed over it.

I have to use this thread to explain why I run the system that I have....I have been trying to explain it to people and this is the best opportunity I will ever have. I am not bashing or degrading anyones setup. I am strictly stating the facts that I have and how it pertains to my setup and the results that I have come up with and the process.

I am gong to take this opportunity to throw my two cents in because I have been trying to explain since the day I installed mine why I have the spherical ends on my shocks. AND why I run much heavier springs than everyone else... AND ITS NOT BECAUSE IM FAT!

What Bill has created is an all-in-one solution that accomplishes pretty much what I did originally. And his setup will do it professionally and without all the drilling, hacking, ordering, and overnight freight charges that I went through.

Last year at about this exact time I was getting ready to head to Maggie Valley and I was in the process of installing QA1 coilovers before I left. I had purchased coilovers before and I knew that I didn't want the poly bushings. I finally found a set on Ebay that had the spherical ends. They also came with a 1/2" hole in the spherical ball mount. I had to drill out all my shock mount points to match this hole size and come up with a bunch of steel plates and spacers to get them to work. And it did work perfectly. Now the next part is where I found out just how much difference the spherical ball made.... My ebay purchase came with 175 pound springs... And I had heard that the stock suspension had a 185 pound spring rate. So my thought was "these should be close enough". When I bolted everything up and tightened the spring to the 1/2 way point I let the jack down and the Slingshot BOTTOMED OUT. My first thought was "wow I cant believe what an additional 10 pounds of spring rate is making" So I called and overnighted a set of 200 pound springs. I mounted them up and let the jack down and it was a little better but even with the spring tightened nearly all the way it still would not hold itself up.... The problem was that I was running out of time.... I had to have it on the trailer and on its way to Maggie Valley the next day... I call a buddy that drag races here in town and has a pretty good supply of springs. He lucky had a set of 225 pound springs... I hauled butt over to his place and purchased them. I mounted them up and this time the front held up pretty well. I am now able to tighten the spring on up and get the height where it can be driven. I breath a little bit easier and load it on the trailer... I knew they would work for me if I left them tightened nearly all the way up but I also knew it was not the correct thing to do. So I went inside and called to order a set of 250 pound spring and have them overnighted to the hotel in Maggie Valley. That reminds me, I guess I need to say thanks to @Toobad4u for helping me change them out in a dark hotel parking lot.. Needles to say that is the springs that I currently run and they are dead on perfect.... The adjustment is in the center and and they ride flawlessly.

I have people that ask me all the time what spring rates I run and why I wanted to drill the mounts and go the way I did with the spherical balls.... As I explained in the paragraph above, the spring rates I run are heavier than everyone else... The reason for the heavier spring is because I dont have the poly bushing that most people do. The big fat poly bushings will make your suspension tight and (don't shoot me for this) imprecise..... Let me explain why I use them..... I run 250 pound spring on my coilovers up front... When I let the floor jack down the front immediately settles to the correct position and if you press on the front end it flexes with relative ease....IF I were to ONLY change the spherical balls out on the ends of the coilovers and switch to the poly bushings and then let the jack down again the bike would't even budge when the tires hit the ground. It would sit up tall and the coilover would slowly come down a bit after it had been sitting for a while. But it never would settle to the correct ride height... It would have the tension at each end of the poly bushing holding resistance against the movement. This is why you will find that the owner with poly bushing big ends on their coilovers only need to run 200 pound springs. Its because the flipping bushings are holding some of the weight. And this resistance causes the coilover to be a bit sluggish in its response.

Remember when you installed the poly bushing it had a steel tube in the center(where the bolt went thru) and was surrounded by two pieces of poly bushing. The Poly bushing had big fat faces that went into the slot and they went into the eye of the coilover end. That is what i am referring to as making the "action" a bit stiff and sluggish....

Use this info as you see fit to. If you don't agree and want to do a write up on poly bushings please start another thread and don't mess up this one that Bill has started. I just wanted to give "my" very detailed accounting and explain how his new all-in-one design will work and why "I" think its better..... Heck, like i mentioned earlier I was doing this setup a long time ago. Bill has just made it all user-friendly. And from what I noticed he seems to be right in line with the pricing. With all the info posted above and the price where it is, do yourself a favor and don't try to save a few dollars and order individual items like I did. YOU WILL end up spending way more than what Bill is asking for a complete "to the door" solution.

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Very cool story, bro. Your efforts and feedback made a big difference in the parts we ultimately chose for these Bolt-In Spherical QA1's, and in the best possible way: through experimentation, observation, and determined execution. Thank you for helping develop the "recipe" and sharing it with us all.

Quote from Bill from Hahn RaceCraft

Absolutely. I will let you know how to do so in just a moment.

Got it. I had hoped to enable two codes, one for free shipping and one for the SlingshotInfo forum discount, but we can only use one per transaction.

For those who would like to pick up and/or have us install at Maggie Valley SSITS, please add "Maggie Valley" to the "Notes" section as you are checking out. We can either apply what you've paid for shipping to an install fee at MV, or simply credit your card back the shipping cost...your choice.

Quote from dangerdarrell

Can we make our order, skip the shipping, and get them installed at Maggie Valley? Don't want to risk not having them on in time. Just waiting to place my order!

Absolutely. I will let you know how to do so in just a moment.

Quote from Nemesis1701

Just put a direct link to order and I'll Do it
Can you do it..now.... got finger in the misses purse so hurry she is asleep

Direct link messaged to you. Thanks!

Quote from deaf1

Ordered!!!!

Ok was I first in line??

As a matter of fact, yes...you are our first! Thank you for your order.

Quote from deaf1

I went on faith and your reputation and ordered.... All I honestly want is a smooth ride for CHICAGO roads :). When will they ship? And thanx for coming out with a affordable option!!!

We expect to start shipping not this week, but next week, just before Maggie Valley. We will also be installing these at Maggie Valley for those who might like to really hit those 318 curves in 11 miles harder than ever before!

Quote from WOLF

@Bill from Hahn RaceCraft you are such a great writer, builder, and salesman. I can't believe you didn't remember a "link".

That's what I can depend on you good folks for, to help me fill in the gaps!

Link now added to initial post, and here it is again:

Click here to order

Quote from deaf1

Damm you!!!! Amex is open and ready... I went from a base to SL rims and tires and the ride is too harsh... Will this tame it,. Or just for performance handling?

Waiting to order!

Your Sling is in that interesting range of the wheel/tire combination being far enough removed from stock that the stock coilover shocks' pre-programmed behavior is not calibrated to accommodate the difference. This typically occurs from two primary factors: stiffer sidewalls, and different wheel/tire weight. These changes have rendered the stock shock valve damping characteristics as now essentially a mismatch.

An adjustable coilover such as this will be effective in allowing you to again achieve damping action that will match your machine's new needs, much like your stock settings were a decent match for the stock wheel/tire combo. You will have to experiment a bit to really dial in the changes, but that's a given anytime we add this level of adjustability to suspension. Of particular concern is the wheel/tire weight difference vs. stock, which can significantly challenge a coilover that was not calibrated for the different weight. We see the effect of this greater weight primarily in rebound damping changes that the adjustable damping enables, and you'll have excellent control over same with this package.

The Argument for Spherical Ends

Spherical ends on our coilovers create an improvement over flexible poly (rubber) ends in two primarily significant ways: precision of response, and reduction in friction. Let’s touch on each.

Spherical bearing ends shown on left, poly bushings on right

Precision of Response

Consider for a moment how your coilover’s shock absorbing (damping) assembly works. It uses a calibrated resistance to movement in order to dampen spring oscillations. This damping resistance is also adjustable in performance upgrade coilovers. It is expressed in two directions of travel: Compression occurs when the wheel goes up and compresses the coilover, such as when we hit a bump. Rebound next occurs when the spring pushes back, when the coilover un-compresses as the wheel returns to its normal ride height position.

In high-performance use, we prize having adjustability to this damping resistance. Such adjustability enables us to optimize the suspension behavior of the machine to suit the vehicle’s chassis combination, road surface and driver. A further advantage is that we can have multiple personalities for the vehicle, such as one for hard track, one for cushy cruising…all available at the twist of a knob.

Now imagine what this coilover does when the suspension is suddenly compressed, like from a bump in the road. If it has poly or rubber bushings, the resistance to movement in the coilover (created by both spring pressure and damping rate) causes those bushings to deflect or compress, to the extent that the coilover itself does not begin to compress until the bushings have both first compressed at both top and bottom. This causes a time lag in the coilover’s response to suspension movement, but more…we also have a momentary stored energy in these now-compressed flexible poly or rubber bushings. As those bushings transfer this energy back into the coilover, our prized damping valving is again momentarily confused.

Spherical bearing: stiff nylon outer shell, steel inner ball

Friction Restricts Movement

Poly bushings have another shortcoming for high-performance applications: they do not pivot as freely as spherical bearings. During suspension movement, the coilover needs to pivot at each end as angles change. Poly bushings resist this pivoting action to a degree, as their internal friction is considerably higher than spherical, the “breakaway torque” required is higher. The smallest bumps won’t even overcome this friction sufficiently to allow any suspension movement. Not so with spherical bearings, which present negligible resistance to pivoting thanks to internal friction that is but a fraction of poly. The difference in suspension “feel” is significant. The tires simply feel more precisely engaged with the road…because they are, and it is evident in both handling prowess and feedback to driver.

There is an excellent method to eliminate these variables, and to achieve precise, accurate synchronization of coilover to suspension movement: spherical bearings. Spherical bearings do not compress and release like poly or rubber, and thus ensure that our high-performance coilover is getting the most, and the most accurate, information on actual suspension behavior.
Poly bushings, which tend to be "squishy" and imprecise

Spherical bearings clearly dominate poly bushings in these aspects, in design concept as well as in practice. To say you can feel the difference is actually an understatement. It’s just that evident. It’s like the difference between your bare fingertips and wearing gloves. When you need precision, when you need to feel the nuances, you don’t wear thick gloves…and neither should your performance machine if you want to get the most out of it. You will never be so confident in both your Slingshot’s as well as your own capabilities as when you move up to this level of precise, sensitive connection to the road. Now the handling limit will be much more clearly defined, as well as higher than ever before, with none of that vagueness or unpredictability that can leave a troubling stain. You’ll feel more relaxed and more empowered in practically every road condition.

But aren’t spherical bearings harsh for regular use? While there is definitely a firmer feel to them, using them on just the coilovers does not make the machine “race-car stiff”. The machine still benefits from stock rubber isolation bushings where the control arms pivot on the chassis, so there is still adequate cushioning available. Your Slingshot will still be very street-friendly over bumps and in general with spherical coilovers. Further, your coilovers’ adjustable nature allows you to fine-tune the suspension strength to what best suits you.

But what the spherical bearings WILL do is to completely synchronize the coilover’s behavior to the actual machine’s behavior, with none of the lag, vagueness or friction of poly. When we invest in quality coilovers, the best thing we can do to fully exploit that exquisite, fully-adjustable damping potential is to not confuse it with squishy, sticky poly bushings!

Hahn/QA1 Spherical Coilover Set, Slingshot Bolt-In

Adjustable for both ride height and damping. Springs included. Contains three pre-assembled, bolt-in coilover assemblies; two front and one rear. Features 18-position combined compression/rebound damping adjustment. Although pre-adjusted for a ¾” to 1” drop, also included is a spanner wrench set for your own ride height refinements, either lower or higher.

Special SlingshotInfo Forum Intro Price: $799!

This is an introductory special price, and fair warning: it may not last long. If you want this price, I suggest you move quickly. These are now on our website: search “Coilover” and purchase now to get this price, using the discount code "slingshotinfo".

Edit, 5-17-16: We have met our quota of discounted systems, and the slingshotinfo discount is no longer in effect. Thanks to all who took part in this sale!

Click here to enter the online world of HahnRaceCraft.com and place your order!

Options:

Double Adjustable: For the hardcore handling junkie, we present no fewer than 324 valving options, with 18 positions of compression adjustment and 18 positions of rebound adjustment. There are no jumps in adjustment range when adjusting between any two clicks. Each adjustment has been carefully defined to provide the ideal force curve to maximize performance. When too much adjustment is just enough!
Double Adjustable Option: add $300

Spring Seat Bearings Installed: If you like to play about with ride height a fair amount, these precision roller thrust bearings make life a lot easier. They reside between the spring and the spanner nuts, and allow you to adjust ride height without galling or binding under pressure. We’ll even hand-pack them with grease for the smoothest operation and longest life.
Spring Bearings Option: add $50

Click here to learn more about QA1’s suspension technology

When we set out to explore the coilover needs of Slingshot, we had the benefit of being able to observe a variety of types having already been implemented in the Slingshot marketplace. Further, we had high-quality information from some select members of our Turbo Posse. These advantages are not insubstantial, and led to us choosing the QA1 line of high-performance coilover replacements. We’ve used QA1 in a variety of other applications over the years, from drag racing to street rods to circle track, so we had a good foundation to work from. The company is a proven leader in the market, and undoubtedly could provide quality product at an achievable price. As an American manufacturer ourselves, we also greatly enjoyed that the QA1 product we chose is also American-made. That scores a lot of points with us! But that was just one of many strong reasons we chose QA1.

The first challenge was to determine the best-suited combination of parts from the vast offerings of QA1. As QA1 does not do Slingshot-specific coilovers, one must understand how to address all of the variables that define the differences among the hundreds of different universal part numbers they offer. Enter: Turbo Posse. With a strong assist from our aggressive customers who’d researched the QA1 product and adapted, tested and refined until the best combination was found, we had a great blueprint. Now we just had to make it something practically anyone could install themselves, with zero research or mods to the Slingshot needed, just order up and you get the perfect recipe, in bolt-on form.

Therein lay the second and final challenge: make this well-researched, well-proven coilover alternative that was gaining popularity among uber-enthusiasts into an absolute bolt-in, making it no longer a “universal” part that requires its own adaptation to fit Slingshot. That’s where Hahn RaceCraft came in strong, as I developed the parts to do just that. Whereas previous installations of QA1 Sphericals on Slingshot had required chassis drilling, shimming and other parts required, now we’ve made it a direct bolt-in. Swapping out the fronts is as easy as: jack up the vehicle, remove the two easy-to access coilver bolts, remove stock coilover, put Hahn/QA1 Coilover in its place, and reinstall bolts. Done. Might take all of five minutes for both if a beer were also involved. The rear unit is just as easy, with some plastic panels that have to be removed and replaced to gain decent access.

These Hahn/QA1 Spherical Coilovers come to you fully assembled and rough-preset to a starting ride height. They are of the Spherical mounting bearing variety, which we’ll learn more about in a moment. We offer these sets in both single adjustable (combined compression and rebound damping adjustment) and double-adjustable (discrete separate compression and rebound damping) adjustment types. Every set is also completely adjustable for ride height as well, with spring rates carefully chosen to be an ideal compromise of stiffness versus comfort for street and track use. We include the needed spanner wrenches to perform your ride-height adjustments. We’d like to think that, with the help of the Turbo Posse, we’ve all managed to really nail it in this now completely bolt-in solution.

Now, as if thousands of miles of testimonial love from the Turbo Posse isn’t enough to seal the deal on just how well QA1 works on Slingshot, allow me to also add my own impressed self. The Hahn SST Turbo SL upon which we engineered the prototype bolt-on Hahn/QA1 Spherical installation also benefited from a new set of tires, which were installed on the stock wheels.

The transformation was simply stunning. We lowered the SL about ¾” to 1”, did some local street testing that dropped all jaws, and then sent it to the best place to gather even more data: the race track.

On a track day at the Florida International Rally and Motorsports (FIRM) complex, the SL just smoked around the 1.6 mile road course. Riding shotgun was the track instructor, who is like a force of nature at the FIRM, adding great skills and insights to all who are fortunate to come in contact with him at this fun, effective facility. A veteran road racer of no small caliber himself, he has been continually impressed by the Slingshots we have all brought to the facility. This time though, it was personal, with him in the machine for hours of direct exposure as he trained and refined the driving skills of our eager customer. The verdict was one of complete agreement that properly set up, a Slingshot can hold its own with any production performance car on their track, as well as also hang tough with many pure racing machines! He was nothing short of blown away by how competently the machine handled this challenging course.

On the street, the capability is no less apparent. I was astounded at the difference. This Slingshot just dares you to throw it into a corner, then laughs at you for being so timid, prodding you to push harder next time. Slingshot’s chassis has a lot to offer if you are of a mind to seek it. I am 100% sold on the fact that the stock “coilovers” (really little more than just shock absorbers with spring seats welded on) have no business on this machine if one wishes to explore its handling capabilities in any detail. That is all. It’s just that cut and dried. You can’t have the kind of fun this machine can provide in handling prowess unless those stock concessions-to-the-bean-counters are permanently deleted from your beloved SS. Toss them in a box somewhere in the deepest recesses of your shop-world, for you will never seek them again.

Continued in next post...

Thanks everyone, and thanks to Tripod for firing up the thread.

The biggest bugaboo in today's engine oil world comes from an unlikely place: emissions controls. Now, before we devolve this into an EPA-bashing session (a popular activity today, and one I'd prefer to save for another time), I'd courteously ask that we focus on the task at hand...determining the best approach for lubing our engines.

In order to keep catalytic converters happy in modern vehicles, efforts have extended even to the engine motor oils, or more specifically, their additives. Modern oils are a marvel of chemistry, with much more in there than just decomposed dinosaurs. The additives chemists use run the gamut from the simple to the sublime. Zinc has always been a key additive, one that helps reduce wear and friction. However, in recent years, zinc has been pulled back considerably in modern formulations. You see, zinc had been discovered to be deleterious to catalytic converters and oxygen sensors, even in the small quantities the engine typically aspirates as a component of combusted engine oil.

Click here for an interesting story on this subject

Quote from rabtech

I run the Mobil 1 dexos approved oil at Walmart. 14000 miles and looks like new still

As do I...but we do need to have a talk, my friend. The times, they are-a-changin'.

What we all need is to have a good thread discussion devoted solely to discussion of engine oil lubricants. There are some developments and aspects that we'd all benefit from expanding and expounding upon. Open casting call for someone to start a new thread on same!