Posts by mpj220

    Yes i did it myself but that was the top fuse NOT the bottom and there isnt a issue with that 50amp fuse.....


    Also these are the lights that came on when it shut down on me while moving.......


    That fuse holder should have popped that 40amp fuse instead burning up the plastic, i believe that fuse holder is the issue but since they are seperated now ill keep my eye on it alot more now and even might pull the last wire out and separate that one also but first to the electrical schematic i go.....

    If memory serves me correctly, the recall was to bypass the 50 amp main chassis fuse and install the new fuse.

    Yep, I've got your mount too mytoy - in Carbon Fiber also running the Kenwood Excelon DMX905S. Put the splash cover over it too but still got water, either around the edges or from behind. And I did fill in the firewall area with insulation although admittedly, I'm sure some water can still get in a round the wires or from above. I'm really thinking of pulling the Kenwood apart and cleaning/covering what I can with conformal coating and sealing all the edges around the screen. I did notice that there was water/moisture in the screen before it initially died. <$20 and I think I can resurrect it.



    Yeah, I caught that too. From what it sounds like to me, it's nothing but a glorified phone with an amp wire.

    There are so many Android head units out there. Some are good, some not so much.


    I am very happy with the Dasaita. It is on the more pricey side as compared to others but, it does shine.

    I put one in my friend's (actually up to 3 now) Slingshot as well. I took a Sony XAV-AX8000 out. The Dasaita blows it away in every way.....sound, performance, screen brightness/sharpness.

    What is most telling is the "Our screen is an IP66 waterproof" statement.

    My "screen" is waterproof too but, the back with the vents and ribbon connector certainly are not.

    I actually sprayed my screen with water to apply my matte screen protector.


    All of the other specs they quoted is identical to the Vanku unit I posted. The extra $700 seems a bit much for the name "Insane Audio"

    The waterproof rating is interesting as it doesn’t look much different than other Android decks on the market.


    I was looking at this one for my wife’s car and it looks VERY similar: https://www.amazon.com/Vanku-A…08MPM2LWB?ref_=ast_sto_dp



    Ended up with an Atoto A7 10” screen as I wanted to keep it simple for her. The A7 operates on a modified Linux platform so, no installing more apps. The Android auto and Apple Carplay interface has been flawless so far. And, it was inexpensive.


    The deck I removed from her car was a Sony XAV-AX100. The Atoto has far better sound than the Sony.



    When you call to gather info, ask what processor, ram, memory, wifi compatibility (2.4 or 5ghz) and Android version is in the unit. PX6 processor on Android 10 seems to be the latest / fastest in the Android radio units. Previous PX5 is known to be slower with some bugs.


    Other things to ask is how compatible it is for Android Auto or Apple Carplay (if you plan to use these). Many Android decks require an additional dongle (and additional $$) to use this feature. Or they have a “screen mirror” app that is laggy and is known for locking up, etc.



    The installed navigation appears to be IGO. This software is included with just about every Android deck sold on Amazon. It works well – only complaint is no “spoken” road names.



    I chose the Dasaita for my Slingshot as I did a ton of research on XDA Forums and it seemed to be the top dog of Android units. It uses an app called “ZLink” that interfaces with Android Auto / Apple carplay – both wired or wireless. I only have a couple of complaints with the Dasaita. First, wifi is 2.4ghz only. Second, the Bluetooth will not connect to my LED light controller. I think the controller/app accesses Bluetooth through “location services” and just isn’t compatible with the deck.

    I went with a Dasaita 10.2".

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V…2GXF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


    Four other Slingshot friends were so impressed at the functionality, they went with the same unit.

    It is NOT waterproof. I carry a thin shower cap and that has worked well should I encounter rain.


    The unit operates on Android. When connected through my phone hotspot, options are limitless. Stream YouTube, Netflix, live TV, you name it.


    It has 3 USB inputs. I have a 128gb stick in one slot that easily has about 30 hours of music videos and 1000's of mp3. I also have a dash cam in one slot and all video is recorded on the head unit. The 3rd slot is for my phone.


    It has GPS built in with it's own navigation. It also has Google maps. You can download regions from Google maps for offline access.

    Built in DSP for tons of audio adjustment.


    It also does Android Auto and Apple CarPlay.

    Thank you sir, BTW did I blow a fuse while testing my flashers with SS off?

    Not likely.


    The flasher is overloaded do to the strip having to low of an input impedance.

    If your 4-way flashers are working with the key on, no blown fuses.

    ok, I’m little retarted with this stuff 🤦🏼‍♂️. What’s the difference between these 2 resisters and will they work? Also I tie them in to the yellow wire?

    Technically, the only difference between those two resistors is the price (and one looks pretty).

    I chose the cheaper one's myself.


    Keep in mind that there is no industry standard with these low cost strips. Most likely only one 220 ohm resistor will do the trick but, if it doesn't, you can add another in series.

    Do the flashers usually work with key off, I would imagine but mine don’t now.
    Did I blow a fuse trying it?

    4-way flashers should work with key off.


    There is no industry standard with these lower cost white / amber chase strips so, you may need to use a different size resistor. Mine works fine with a 220ohm (5 watt) in series with the yellow wire. Different brand strips may require a 470 or 680 ohm.

    Resistors are cheap. I think I paid around $10 for an assorted pack on Amazon.


    Polaris wiring diagram doesn't appear to change the flasher power source with the key so, it has to be a function of the strip that changes the yellow input to a low impedance input when no power is on the red wire. Since the schematics for these strips are not available, I can't really pinpoint what is going on.

    Interesting, never tried that before. Using the harnesses. Mine flick once when switch is flipped, but don't blink. Flip off/on and they will blink once again. Key on, blink like normal.

    a 200 ohm 2 watt resistor in series with the yellow wire will likely cure that.