Posts by Doc&Ruby

    Welcome billythekidd !

    You're going to love your new SLR! As others have said, take it easy on the first drive, that's harder than it sounds! Try not to use the cruise control, Polaris (and GM) recommend you vary speeds and don't jam on the accelerator, try not to bounce off the rev limiter! Drop off the interstate some and enjoy the attention you get on local roads!

    If you're traveling alone, a small cooler in the front seat with water, soft drinks is helpful, and yes, sunscreen! I just did a trip from Arkansas to San Antonio Texas, no problems! The SLR seats are extremely comfortable.

    I'll second dangerdarrell 's suggestion - cruise through northwest Arkansas! I live in the same area. You are welcome to spend the night here, room to spare at the ranch and lots of nice riding areas!

    Enjoy the ride!

    My favorite Weird Al Yankovic song is called One More Minute and it's about a guy whose GF has left him for someone else and he keeps naming things he'd rather do than spend one more minute with her. My favorite of those things is when he says he'd rather clean all the bathrooms in Grand central Station with his tongue, than spend one more minute with her. My only complaint about the song is when he says since she left he has to use the self-service pumps. I think it would be more accurate if he'd said he has to use the self-service pump!

    I have couple of ex's like that!

    Sea foam is about $28 a gallon

    Sold in 16 oz containers for about $6 near me. They recommend 1oz per gallon, I figure if you're not completely dry, 1 can gives you two tanks of treatment.

    With conservative treatment intervals of 1000 miles, that puts the cost of Sea Foam at 0.3 cents per mile - not bad.

    A 1-gallon container (I've never seen it sold that way btw), is 128 oz, enough for 16,000 miles of travel, several YEARS of riding for most of us. At your estimated cost that comes to 0.15 cents per mile.

    Seems like a bargain either way compared with the expense, time, and effort of replacing injectors, fuel pumps, fuel filters, valves.....

    Just my 0.02... hey! That's enough for almost 15 miles of travel! 🤠

    We didn’t get any rain until about 4:30 and I’m only about 30 miles north of you. :( I didn’t go out in the SS because of the 80% chance of rain. After the rain started though it kept it up till about 10.

    Yeah, no ECU in Ruby right now anyway! CBM motorsports called today, it's on it's way back, maybe back on the road Monday.

    BKL

    Thanks for the detailed information! I usually fill up at the 1/2 tank mark (5 gal) and at 27 mpg that works out to once every 10 fill ups. I did add a can of sea foam 2 tanks ago (at your recommendation), so I'll aim for once per 1000 miles for preventative maintenance. Ruby has about 7800 miles on her now, so somewhere around 9000 I'll do it again - hopefully I'll never have the bogging or dirty injectors problem!

    This from Continental Tire: Contisense tires

    These tires go beyond TPMS, they monitor pressure, temperature, tread depth, and also have puncture alerts.


    Unlike the airless tires, I can actually see Slingshot owners adopting this - especially as we don't carry spares! This is scheduled to come to market in the next 3-5 years. My bet is that Continental is going to partner with a higher end auto manufacturer and offer them as a new safety system.


    Even if you did add the tech to monitor all this, you'll need to be able to analyze the data - and you'll be locked into Continental tires for the life of your vehicle. Somehow, I don't see this as a mature technology.

    Yup tried the hole at what looked to be the end of the crack. I think when Alpha made these they might of used a lower (cheaper) grade of stainless. Does not weld real good after being used. I think my best bet is to just bite the bullet and buy a DDM, 1320 or some other brand that will be around to take care of the buyer if there is a problem. Anybody got a lead on a good deal for a header?


    LC

    Put one of the ZZP headers on my sling last month - very happy with it. Have the ZZP exhaust as well.

    I had a question from another member here via email on Ruby's new light bar which I've mounted under her chin spoiler. I thought I would share the information here for anyone interested.


    Anyway, the Nilight lightbar (about $20) is 12-inches long and has 24 LEDs in two rows of 12. In each row of 12, the center 6 are spotlights (about 40 deg throw), the outer 3 on each side are flood lights (about 130 deg throw). The center lights throw a beam well down the road and the outer lights project well out to each side - this is a real blessing where I live because the roads are not always well maintained and the pavement sometimes crumbles near the edge and there is often no shoulder up in the hills. The light bar is rated at 72 watts - I'd say it easily throws out 5000+ lumens, it is really bright! Certainly puts the center halogen headlamps to shame.


    This description on Amazon says the lightbar is waterproof - but customer reviews have said some people had problems with water intrusion. I took the end caps off and filled it up nicely with silicone calk and also caulked around the lens in front, and caulked the housing where the wire leads come out. The housing is heavy duty aluminum and cooling fins are built in - it's really beefy and I have no doubt that it will hold up well. With the caulking ahead of time I've had no trouble with water intrusion at all.


    The mounting clamps I used (about $18.00) were basic, but sturdy and came with the screws and rubber pads needed to insure that they don't shift while riding - I've put about 150 miles on since I mounted them and there is no problem, they are solid as a rock. With the clamps attached to the round frame bar beneath the radiator, the light sits just 4-5 inches behind and beneath the front chin of the lower spoiler. The light is no lower than any other component under the sling and I've had no problem with anything hitting or dinging up the housing. The lens is polycarbonate - Nilight has a video where they show a fellow pounding on the unit with a hammer with no damage to the light - so I'm pretty sure this unit will hold up under the sling. Having the light under the chin spoiler and back a few inches means that I don't blind anyone ahead of me, so I felt that I was pretty safe without a switch - If I get flashed a lot at night, I might install a switch, but for now I'm good.


    I also purchased a wiring harness & switch (about $12) from Nilight, but did not end up using it. dangerdarrell and I did the mounting and we found that there is an unused plug that puts out 12V above the outer headlight housing. Since this puts out the right voltage and is ON as soon as you turn the key, we cut the plug off and soldered automotive speaker wire (Walmart, $10) from there to the lights and zip-tied everything tight. Darrell showed me his wife's sling has a similar bar (not as large or bright. I haven't tested it thoroughly in the dark yet - but I do a lot of pre-dawn driving in the fall and winter because Ruby is my daily ride to work at 5:45 am most days. I think this is going to help loads!


    The whole project was under $50, a great deal in my opinion. I hope the photos here help folks out, if you have any other questions, please PM me and I'll do my best to help.


    Doc


    FWIW, we test drove a 2018 SLR with a slingshade - and hated it. Restricted visibility up and forward was a huge problem. I'm not that tall (5-10), but it felt absolutely claustrophobic to me. The construction and wobbly hinges were also a turn off, I can't see anything with that much play in it lasting well over the years. YMMV, of course.


    I may eventually get a top, but the darn thing has to come off and go back on at the drop of a hat - I'll put it on for the Captain if she wants it, but I'm ripping the damn thing off as soon as she gets out at the end of a ride. Meansling sport top is the only thing out that I've seen that meets my criteria so far.

    https://www.caranddriver.com/n…helin-airless-tire-uptis/

    This Car & Driver article claims that the weight of the car actually *hangs* from the spokes on TOP of the tire.

    Article claims that if you cut *all the spokes* at the bottom of the tire, nothing happens! They also say that the hanging structure means that the tire will not heat up due to compression & relaxation as the tire rolls along. I gotta call BS on that one - even if the weight does hang from the top, the top spokes would still compress and relax just as sidewalls do. No air inside to absorb that heat & change pressure, though.

    Can't wait to see what they come up with for keeping them clean.


    Probably only cost a couple hunnert dollas...

    and won't work on Georgia Clay.

    I have some of the same concerns. It wouldn't take much carry, dirt, mud, clay, snow, to throw them seriously off balance.

    Then again, maybe the production models will have a regular sidewall, but then I think they would be far too heavy. With all that internal rubber, they have to be heavy to begin with.

    Maybe if you're running an armored SUV, you don't worry about tire weight!

    Saw this, GM is partnering to bring airless tires to market. I can see how this might work okay, but I'm not sure I'd be caught dead running them on any vehicle I owned. I also think that open structure would be quite noisy at speed.

    Has anyone seen something like this before?

    Airless tire