There is also a hole already there beside the exhaust manifold on the frame flat panel. There is plenty of room to mount the double horns all I needed was a short spacer and the bolt and nut. They are still mounted, but I do not use them. Just never have got around to taking them off of Sling I.
Yep, used to have them mounted right where the turbo tube is crossing that shiny crossmember. Had to move them. Note that the compressor is in the stock horn location.
Slingshot Only/Twist Dynamics used to offer a dual air horn. I can't find it on their site, but it's basically this one from Amazon. Pretty much just plug-n-play from the stock wiring - didn't even use the relay. I got a chrome version and mounted it right in front of the engine behind the headlights (bottom of the picture).
:
that seems like a very short life for the drive belt, from what I have read here we have members with over 100k miles on the original belt
That's exactly what I thought. And told them. And I know we have members putting 500+ HP into them. I adjusted the belt about 2 yrs ago (using Sam Owen's video) and didn't see any wear or alignment issues when I checked it last week when I heard the "clicking". We'll see.
You've got to teach us all how you do all that work. It looks great!
I was wanting to do a new nose to my SS, but don't have the skills or knowledge of what to do.
Funny, my sling is in the shop for what I believe to be the exact same thing. 2019 with 25K miles. People started noticing it in Florida and telling me about it. By the time we ended the weekend, I could hear it while driving so I just loaded it on the trailer and brought it home. Didn't even unload it from the trailer for the week and then took to the dealer on Saturday. Waiting to hear now.
Got the call from the dealer. Everything bearing wise is all good. Belt is supposedly worn? After just 25k miles? It was adjusted right at 10k miles and I didn't see any damage last week so I dunno. $500+ to replace ($300 for belt, 2 hrs labor.)
Not sure I will call this an enhancement to the SS but I guess it was a necessary purchase. For those of you who have been lucky enough not to have seen these parts, they are from the rear axle and the dreaded axle bearing. Had the angle drive recall done back in, I think, 2017, thought I was safe but apparently not. Got the ticking sound out back when going slow and really loud when in reverse some weeks back. Not heard of anyone having this issue since back in 2015/2016. 41,900 mi.
Funny, my sling is in the shop for what I believe to be the exact same thing. 2019 with 25K miles. People started noticing it in Florida and telling me about it. By the time we ended the weekend, I could hear it while driving so I just loaded it on the trailer and brought it home. Didn't even unload it from the trailer for the week and then took to the dealer on Saturday. Waiting to hear now.
All of the new stuff will be introduced at Slingexperience this week
Thanks Dave. Of course, I can't go and Sling is in the shop..... 
German Shepard is Lobo, Lab is Harley, Mutt is Nugget.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
https://www.itemfix.com/v?t=guxsik
This a movie?
[/quote]Unfortunately, no, not a movie. Real life in SoCal. Kia driver survived mostly unharmed (other than the shxx in his pants). Supposedly truck had wheel spacers that somehow broke and busted axle. (Don't ask me how - I dunno.)
Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
Same here. 1st two Slings - no top. But getting sunburned in the Texas sun changed my mind. I too have the Gull Wing on my 3rd SS and love it.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
You have it so tough! Just jealous..
You might not think so in a few months when its over 110 everyday
[/quote]Come to Texas where you have to use both the heater and air conditioner on the same day. 40s in the AM, 80s in the PM.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
I have the fumoto too. But I mounted it with the lever topside.
Agree with the slow drain tho. Just did both SS and truck oil changes at the same time. Started SS Fumoto drain, did entire truck oil change (6.2L so 8 qts), then went back to do SS. The process is: Pull lock clip, slide oil pan under SS, open valve, drink a beer, replace SS filter, drink a beer, turn off valve, fill w 5 qts, remember to remove oil drain pan before driving the SS. Find the lock clip 3 days later and put back on valve.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
Many people use the QuickJacks. Or you could go with the RaceRamps. But just buying a shorter jack might be cheaper in the long run. Harbor Freight has a low-profile jack that fits under the sling very well.
If all you're worried about is changing oil, I just bought a shorter oil change pan from Autozone. Slide it under, open the Fumoto Oil Drain valve, drink a beer, etc. Everything else I've done (including turbo install) was with a floor jack and some jack stands. Getting just the front off the ground is enough for me to get under it. If I need more room underneath, I've raised the rear on some 2x12 boards and then jack stand the front.
I've had 2 trailers for the SS:
SlingThings in Florida does make purpose built SS trailers and you can get options in them if you want. Expensive, but you get what you pay for.
There are some purpose built travel trailers you can get that can tow the SS too, but again, ramp angle, ramp height, and garage depth have always been the issue (and big $$$!!!)
At this point, I think I'm just going to go back to a regular flat bed car hauler. Again, have to watch for the width and ramp angle, but a couple of 2x12's x2' long will get the nose up enough for the ramp (you'll usually hit nose first, but if you can clear that, the rear will be fine).
OMG!!! I disconnected the extra light to my signals...reconnected...It works!!! Thank you chavey2!!!
You're welcome. I had this problem starting earlier in the year. And it was intermittent. Would work, then stop working. Shut off engine, restart all good. Then a week later it would appear again. And just as fast disappear. Then it showed up again months later and wouldn't go away. Until I disconnected and reconnected my brow lights. I've got a thread on it here at Left Blinker Stops Working - Temporarily.
Check post #4203 show there on my computer...
That's my point. That IS post 4203 - on my work computer with all the IT restrictions.
Same thing with post 4207:
It's not your issue - it's mine.
And then the next post is fine:
I've had this problem too. Is it just 1 signal or both? Do you have LEDs or other lights also hooked up to your turn signals?
Obvious, but check both the fuse and relay in the fuse box (relays are all the same so just switch with another one that you know does work).
Very rarely, its the Flasher Control Module. It's $135 and hidden in the dash behind the steering wheel. Let's hope it's not that.
In my case, all I had to do was disconnect the LEDs and then reconnect them and everything started worked fine.
Check out some of Sam Owen's Youtube Videos too for more info. There's also a discussion about putting in a resistor on the LEDs, but I didn't have to do that.
I gotta stop looking at this site at work. Due to our IT restrictions, and depending on the post, this is what I get. Jeez!
But how do you get your nuts off?
Usually once or twice a week....
