Posts by chavey2

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    Say when. Busy this month and into mid-August, the Ozarks in mid-Sept. But I could definitely come down for a weekend sometime (and I'll have a place to stay in SA starting Aug 1).

    can you post more pictures of the wheels? They look great. Also how are the sway bars? Noticeable difference in handling?

    Well, not great pics (in the garage at night), but here you go. They are a white 10 spoke rim with a Chrome trim ring. The trim ring can be switched out for other colors too without changing the wheels. You can also get the wheel itself in different colors. If you check the website, it shows only the 22" available. If you check the TD catalog, you'll see that there are 20" sets too. I just made them split it for 20" front and 22" rear. You can also get a choice of a couple of different tire brands. I've had Nitto before and been VERY happy with them so that's what I chose.



    And I'll have to let you know about the sway bar. Since I got all new suspension stuff, I'm going to have to get them all dialed in.

    I have the DDM 3 way which have 19 clicks, and here is their page on settings: xPJecji.jpg

    You are AWESOME! That's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you.


    Yes, these might have 19 clicks too. They went past 18 (hard!) but I never felt that last "click". I'm surprised how low some of the numbers are considering the dealer set everything at 10 to begin with. And I wished the dealer would have left me some of the paperwork that came with anything.

    So I'm going to dig this up again, not so much for the springs, but where to set the Rebound/Compression on the adjustable shocks.

    I had the dealer add the TD 3-way adjustables. (I dunno if they are better/worse than any others, but this particular dealer has an agreement with TD.) PIcked it up yesterday and felt that it was way too harsh - I felt like I was hitting every pebble. To be fair, they also added TD Sway bar and TD Recluse 20" front/22" rear wheels with Nitto 555 G2 tires. So a lot of variables got changed.


    Came home today and counted where they set them at the dealer. All shocks had 18 clicks available and everything was set at 10. I set them all to 8 and the ride seemed a little better.


    Now, reading above, front and rear can be set differently. Front for roll and rear for comfort. (I also googled some other sites and I don't even want to get into over/under steer, etc.)


    So anyone got suggestions? Mine is a daily driver and I would only be running hard when I go to one of the GTGs (ie Eureka Springs in Sept).

    Always keep my baby garaged.


    Except for when the dealer has her over night... They toss her out back like a well used prostitute. :(

    Yep, same here. And even provided the dealer the cover (like they asked for) and they never used it. Luckily it didn't rain (to kill the stereo) but the inside was covered in dust. It got a good bath today.

    Okay, so not just today's mods, but this week's mods. And Dealer did some and I did some.


    Dealer:

    • Twist Dynamics 3-way adjustable shocks
    • TD Sway Bar
    • TD Rear Fin (5" Gloss Black).
    • TD Recluse Wheel Set. One-off set of 20" front/22" Rear in White with Chrome trim ring and Nitto 555 G2 Tires.


    Since getting home last night, I added the LED lights and the Rabtech from end protection kit.


    I also added a set for Badass Moto Gear Roll Bar Grab Handles. No pics, but they are here on Amazon. Make sure you get the UTV ones - the jeep ones are too big.

    Okay, so I installed some basic LED today. H3's on the outside and H9's on the inside. I got them on Amazon Prime day discount which was saying they were marked down from $29.99 to $18.59 - a 40% savings. Of course, now they are only $20.16 regular so I dunno how much I really saved. Amazon Infitary LED Bulbs


    I haven't had a chance to check them at night, but here's the pics


    Before:


    During (You can see the LEDs on the drivers side):



    After:


    I'm not really sure how to mount them. There are a couple of plastic tabs that fit in slots on the bulbs for a friction mounts, but I dunno if I trust that. And as I was installing, I broke one of the tabs on the passenger side. So I used the stock metal plate/spring to mount the passenger side LED but noticed the bulb could slide around behind the spring.

    Is it just me, or does that look like the moved the engine to the rear?


    ** Edit - DOH! Guess I should have followed the link first and read the article. Yep, completely redesigned to mid-(rear) engine configuration. **

    Thanks Kyle and W3JNP.


    Yeah, I've heard about the radio static too. Seem to be on the ones without the anti-flickering module mostly. I've also got an aftermarket radio so we'll see what happens.


    Glad to hear about there not being much of a difference between the cheap vs expensive ones. I'm trying some "cheap" ones first that say they are canbus and anti-flickering capabile. They are supposed to arrive today so I'll install this weekend and see how they go. I also found some more expensive ones that seem to offer the same so I'm holding those to see how the cheap ones work first. Stay tuned.

    Nope, shutters in the center only. That's why it's an H9 bulb - that's not a High/Low bulb, only a single beam bulb. Stock Outside lights are H3 and also are single beam.


    If you do the Canadian conversion kits to add the 6 lights, those are actually high beam only (H4 I think) and don't come on until you switch to high beam.

    Yeah, I've found out that Polaris doesn't actually change the brightness of any of the bulbs to make the high/low beam. All they do is raise the center shutters - the light levels stay exactly the same. I've read about some people removing/modifying the shutters to get more light from the center.

    Okay, before anyone get's on me - I search. And Searched. AND SEARCHED. And I Googled. And You-tube'd (Thanks Sam Owens!). And Amazon'd. And Ebay'd. And . . . . you get the idea.


    I figured out that the outside headlights are H3. And the center are H9. Which is the same as H8 and H11.


    I know we need Canbus capable LEDs. And needs to have the anti-flickering PCB.


    What I can't figure out is which LEDs are better. I'm not talking about which supplier/manufacturer, but what kind of LEDs?


    COB? ZES? Ribbon? 1 Side?, 2 Side?, 3 side?, 4 side?, Round? How many lumens is good? 6000? 8000? 20000? Fans vs Heatsinks? What's the difference between a $20 LED and a $100 LED?


    I know our supporting vendors offer quite a few sets. But there aren't enough specs listed to tell me exactly what I am getting. And I was able to track down the manufacturer of at least 1 set - and found them for 1/3rd the price. (Not 1/3'd off - 1/3rd the price - I could buy 3 sets for what our supplier was offering.)


    So, anyone got input?

    Sorry, what you really need is a Silkscreener (think the guys that make t-shirts). I buy printed stuff like this every day as part of my day job. Artwork would be good, but a decent guy can probably scan and make his one. A single color shouldn't be too expensive.

    Okay, now I'll jump in here. I am one of the guys where the tops are all just a little too low. I sit up in the curved area of the Polaris top and the front bar is actually BELOW my line of sight. My head tops out just under the top bar of the black roll bar in back and my head was literally 1/4" from the plastic top.


    So my #1 concern is the height of the top. I loved all your designs - and I was going to be one of the first for that removable stowable top, but the height killed it for me. I didn't want a top but the Texas sun was killing me (ask wokka about my left arm tan) and so I thought this would be a perfect compromise.


    My #2 concern is the ingress/egress of getting in/out of the SS with a top. I decided to go with the TD Gull Wing. The top is well above my head and the front bar is just above my line of sight so I have to move my head to see stop lights, but it also functions as a temporary sun visor when needed. I too liked the "roll bar" styling of the tops even though it's not guaranteed, but getting in/out of the solid ones was a pain for me. That's why I liked the gull wing style that opened up the sides.


    My distant #3 concern is overall looks. I actually don't care for the height/jacked up look of the TD GW top - makes it look too much like a dune buggy (I even had some guy ask if the SS was street legal). It probably needs to flow better with lines of the SS, The Polaris top does that well - they just need to be taller and go over the roll bar instead of thru it.

    I had a lot of hood flap before removing the fenders and as such had installed @MNIRON's hood locks prior to removing the fenders (you can see them in my Avatar <--). But I can't think removing the fenders wouldn't make it any worse than it already is. At the rear of the hood is a triangular piece that the fenders rivet into and the hood sits on. This stays on when you remove the fenders.


    BTW, my hood doesn't flap barely at all on my new 2019, and I still (temporarily) have the side fenders on for now. (Fender Delete kit is on my list of mods soon.)