Just an FYI for you all, I am taking possession of the stock Slingshot on Saturday. Monday is scheduled for temps in the high 50s to low 60s which will be perfect. I will get a base line pull on Monday, overnight the PCM to CBM to marry the PCM to my interface, install the parts, do another pull on Wednesday or Thursday depending on when I get the PCM back, and then build a tune for it on the dyno and get some final numbers. I'll start a new thread for this but just out of curiosity, Do you guys have any preference on whether I post numbers as I go or would you prefer me to just post all of the data at once? Let me know in the poll.
Posts by Kyle D
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So you need to have the Slingshot for a week or more to make all this work. My Slingshot is under the hood is "MODLESS".
What you SHOULD do is drop your SS off with me for a week or less and have us put a turbo kit on there for you.
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So you need to have the Slingshot for a week or more to make all this work. My Slingshot is under the hood is "MODLESS".
For the NA tunes, I will not touch the PCM the first time. You're roughly 3-4 business days in transit from CBM each way. They're fast and turn around time is typically 1 business day. But if you elected to overnight it both ways, you'd only be down 3 business days.
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Kyle D I'm about 2 hours from you in La Porte, IN. If we made an appointment and I drove up for an early morning appointment could the 'tune' be done in a morning?
Unfortunately, the initial flash must be done by CBM in CA. Once they do the initial flash, your PCM will be married to my interface cable and I can do all future tuning here at ZZP in MI should you decide to buy a turbo kit from us, put in cams, or anything else that would require the tune being updated.
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I would also like to add that any tune would have to be set up to work with 91 octane fuel - - anything higher is almost impossible to get here in California
That is not a problem.
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Careful Kyle, going to drum up too much business Got anyone in Texas you can do this with?
Unfortunately I do not, We use CBM exclusively for all of our PCM flashing as we use their tuning software and their only location is in CA at this time.
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Actually, if a vendor really did want to get my business and sell me a tune it would be much easier if they used a system where I could buy an already tuned ECU with a deposited core charge that would be refunded when I returned my un-tuned ECU to them.
With my Slingshot being my daily driver the down time involved in having to remove my ECU and ship it to be tuned even with overnight shipping is not something I can do
The issue with this, and why no other vendors are doing this and using the stock PCM is by the time you factor in all the initial costs that are involved to get ONE SINGLE new PCM from Polaris in stock, on your shelf, and ready to go, you are into it for about $1000. It would get very costly and inefficient for us to keep enough PCMs in stock to keep sending out for tunes and then having to replace them when we do not get cores back or get a faulty or broken core or even a core that is NOT for a SS (You'd be dumbfounded how often that happens in our other markets). If PCM cores were plentiful and cost effective and we were selling 30-60 tunes a day like we do in our other markets it would be a different story but this is a small niche market and there aren't a plethora of PCM cores out there.
However, in your case specifically, I can see you're in Palm Springs. You're about an hour away from CBM who flashes our PCMs for us in Colton CA. If you want a tune once we have our NA tune available, I will personally arrange an appointment for you to drive to CBM and have your PCM flashed with our NA tune and now you have a tune with no down time. So with that said, and now just having solved your down time dilemma, wanna buy a tune from me in the near future?
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When talking about the actual exhaust (header & muffler) on an NA setup it really doesn't make any difference with the tuning. A tune for someone running a ZZP exhaust package isn't going to be any different from a guy running a 1320 header and muffler or a side exit or one of Welters many systems. We've been building, boosting, and tuning ecotecs for 15 years and all the different headers and cat backs out there make no difference on the tuning from one system to another.
When I release this NA tune, I COULD make drop downs for every different header and cat back known to man to make it seem "customized for your specific setup" but the reality is, they would be all the same tune because the different exhaust setups have such a low impact on tuning at that power level that it doesn't matter. This is all part of that misinformation I have been talking about being spread around and WHY I'm passionate about not bullshitting you guys and just getting you reliable information and good products at competitive pricing into your hands with no smoke and mirrors.
Now if you're talking about adding cams and valve springs, a turbo kit, larger injectors, etc., yes, you would want the tune updated for the new mods. The only time the actual exhaust is going to become a conversation is if you're adding boost via a turbo or supercharger. A lot of the kits exiting out the back are running 2" pipe because there isn't a lot of room in the trans tunnel. But 2" pipe on a boosted setup is going to be a restriction. It'll work, but definitely NOT be ideal. But even this isn't a question of tuning but size of the pipe. In most cases 2.5" piping would be more than enough on a boosted setup. Now if the 2" pipe creates back pressure, you would want to adjust the tune for that also.
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Kyle D have you thought about the cost for the NA tune? With only one option available, it comes with a fairly hefty price. I also have not done this yet and am definitely planning on it. I have a CAI, header and side exit, cat-delete exhaust that has some issues that I'm working through. I'm curious if a tune is developed for a specific exhaust or if the same basic tune works on all cat-delete exhausts as I may change mine out at some point. Thanks for any info you can provide.
We are definitely looking at cost. I cannot comment on what it will be as that would be putting the cart before the horse. However, with our mantra being "Go Fast, Not Broke" it is safe to say that we will be very competitively priced like all of our other products. The type of exhaust won't matter. You're mainly just taking into consideration the cat being gone and the engine breathing better in general.
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Great to hear, I am very happy with the NA sling for my driving style, I am inquiring about the tuning because that is the one thing i have done and everyone keeps saying that it would make the SS respond faster and behave better all around.
I would rather support someone who is active in the forums vs someone who has never been active for as long as I have been here(almost 3 years now), however the window is closing rapidly for me since I definitely would not want to do this during riding season which is way too short for us northerners for me to even consider self inflicted down time.
Please keep us posted on this.I greatly appreciate that support. A tune would definitely help with overall throttle response and drive ability. Totally hear you on the short riding season we get. Definitely one of the down sides here in MI. However, once the tune is ready for the public, if you were to overnight the PCM here and back, you would only have 2 1/2 - 3 days of down time. A day to get here, a day to flash it and get it back out the door to you, and a day in transit back. Definitely not terrible especially if you do it during the work week. You could send the PCM on Monday and be back on the road by Wednesday or Thursday. I'll definitely keep you guys posted on this. I have a few products coming to market really soon I think you guys will like.
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Not saying this has anything to do with your situation. But it remided me of something that I have been wanting to talk about....I wonder how many times you hear about a turbo kit or a supercharger kit on any type of engine blowing up and it was just due to the last place you got gas having lower octane gas or having incorrect octane gas instead of the correct octane in the super unleaded pump.
Think about it, how easy would that be.... i know the state is supposed to come by ocasionally and certify the amount of fuel you get is actually correct. And im sure they take samples and carry them to analyze. But im also sure that some stations may only see that guy come by once a year or even less.
So all you would have to do is accidently get a tank of mid grade 89 octane and you might make it 10 miles or 200 miles. Who knows. And you would never think about the gas you got ..
Just something to think about.... and a good reason to listen to your engine and understand what knock and ping sound like. I can hear it and tell when it happens and its so subtle that the Haltech ecu just barely registers it on the log file.
We see this ALLLLL the time. Someone will come in for work or a dyno and we get the car strapped down and start making a pull and it's either a knock monster or down on power from what we are used to seeing. Now the customer has listed he has 93 octane or E85 in the tank so if it is E85, we can test it and check the ethanol content but we do not have what it takes to test octane. The next step is asking the customer WHERE he last filled up. 9 out of 10 times its some privately owned non national shit station that had the least expensive fuel. We end up pumping the tank and fill it with fuel from either the Mobile or Shell close to the shop which is known for good fuel and it's like magic, the knock goes away and power is back up. WHERE you get your fuel from plays a huge roll.
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I have to throw it out there to the HP gods, rabtech and MACAWS. My little Supercharger only dyno'd at 350 HP at the rear wheel. Hummm, not bad for an UN-built motor.
Slingrazor what kind of dyno was that on? Do you have a dyno sheet you can post? I'm just curious what the power curve looks like since we do not have a supercharger kit available and I don't know much about the supercharged kits out there.
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Still waiting for this MI weather to break. We've had temps in the 20s and 30s along with snow and ice up until yesterday. We're now in the mid upper 40s with rain which is good because it's melting all the snow and ice. When the temps are in the 30s and 40s it's not ideal for tuning. Our dyno in inside but not enclosed so whatever the temp is outside, that's what you're sitting in while on the dyno. The next week is looking like mid 50s to low 60s so I'll be contacting the guy coming up to have the work done today actually to set something up for a week or two out. Then I will get some dyno sheets posted up so you guys have some actual real world numbers of what a NA SS will do stock and with an intake, tune, and exhaust on a mustang dyno. As long as Mother Nature continues to cooperate and I can get a solid date lined up with the guy coming in, I am hoping to have dyno sheets posted and NA tuning available within the next 3-4 weeks.
Are the numbers going to be mind blowing? No. I'm not expecting them to be. We've been working on and tuning these NA 2.4s for 15 years and they just don't make a ton of power in NA trim. But I'm more concerned about getting reliable real world numbers for you guys to see and talk about. There hasn't been much data posted in general to begin with, that I have seen, much less realistic data. But this is a smaller niche market where there aren't a ton of performance based vendors so that doesn't surprise me. While this may sound cheesy, I'm very passionate about this market, and have made it a goal to get you guys accurate information especially regarding power numbers. I definitely haven't forgotten about this but I've been at the mercy of Mother Nature and that fuc**ng ground hog didn't make good on his prediction of an early spring.
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I wouldn't even know where to start on finding someone who could do that. And I sure can't
If you could find a machine shop in your area, you could get it done pretty cost effectively. I would think having them water jet out some pieces out of aluminum would be fairly simple for them as MACAWS suggested. Before you send the current wing back, trace a stencil of the end caps on a piece of paper as accurately as possible, assuming you like that shape. When you get the new wing, take the new end cap and the stencil to them and tell them you want the shape of the stencil with a centered hole placement using the new bolt hole configuration. Have them round off the edges and take it to someone to paint or powder coat orange for you also as Macaws suggested.
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studiopeg #3 is what I would go with if it were mine.
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I go through two or three 305/45/18 Mickey Thompson ET Street Rs on the rear every season which is like 5-6 months of ride time. Terrible in the wet but damn are they sticky. I also never ride when there may be rain.
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The next question is - can this be painted?
You could 100% have that painted.
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On a 7” wide wheel ideal tire width is 205-215. The max you could safely go would be 225. You cannot put a 265 on there without going up to a 9.5” wide wheel ideally. You COULD get away with it on a 9” wheel but if you have to buy new wheels anyway you may as well buy the correct size.
Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Info
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Based off the other flyer I saw, it looks like this is just 1/8th mile racing with the only 1/4mi racing in the GTR and Hellcat divisions? I could not find the flyer you posted for the slingshot specifically and the only event they list on their facebook page is October 13th and doesn't mention slingshots specifically.
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Does anyone know if there is E85 readily available there? Trying to figure out if I will need to bring a barrel or if I should just dial it down and go back on 93 octane.