Posts by Kyle D

Quote from BKL

Thanks for the clarification. That had occurred to me since having the set screw in the rear wouldn't allow it to have any adjustment on how far the hood opened,especially with the set screw in the rear it would only impact closing the hood. Here's the first pic in the install instructions from page 2 of the instructions I received via email on Dec 3, 2019 -

. Although the picture doesn't show the new strut fastened to that hole, it certainly looked to me like the strut was lined up with that hole, so I followed the pic. After examining the rest of the instructions again, I now see that the rest of the install pics show the mount and strut properly positioned. My mistake lay in misinterpreting that initial picture and then missing the difference in the rest of the install pics.

I'm now going to go switch everything around to match the rest of the install pics and will hopefully post success later.

I feel kind of silly having focused so much on the first pic that I didn't notice the rest of the pics. Once I ran into clearance problems, I assumed the problems were due to my combination of accessories and not my misinterpretation of that first pic.

Update - Success! The hood hinge crossbar simply slipped in place with no clearance issues! It's amazing how easy an install can be when properly following the instructions! Now all I need to do is wait for my Daughter to wake up so we can attach the hood and make final adjustments.

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Glad you got it all sorted out! Let me know if you need anything else.

Looking at pics 3 and 5 you have the lower brackets on backwards. You need to switch sides. That set screw on there needs to be towards the front of the slingshot. That is how you adjust how vertical your hood goes. We did that because some people, including myself, have front splitters that the hood would otherwise hit so we incorporated a set screw so you can adjust it so it does not hit the splitter. I have put some pics below. Let me know if this solves the issues you are having. I'll also respond to the email you sent.

Quote from Chain

OK sounds good just worried about hitting the shock adjustment ring it is only 3/4 inch gap now with a 305

In most scenarios, as long as your wheel maintains the +45 offset you should be fine.

Quote from Chain

How wide of rim is recomended. I have a 20X12 was thinking of going 345

You can definitely do a 345 on 12" wide wheel but not on a stock SLR wheel. One thing to consider is the amount of side wall especially if you are boosted. The larger the side wall the more forgiving it will be against wheel spin by absorbing the shock. I've seen a couple guys run 345s on their boosted setups but still could not get a ton of grip because the profile was small. They eventually down sized to a 10.5" wheel and ran a sticky 305 with a taller side wall and got a ton more grip. Wider looks awesome, but bigger isn't always better.

Happy Belated Birthday To The Angry Panda!!! Hope you had a great birthday my friend.

Quote from rabtech

i meant to chime in also..... the guage that AEM makes comes in 2 sizes. A 5" and a 7"...

This is one of.those times that bigger is NOT better IF your going to replace the factory guages with it.

I will say that the Haltech dash is shaping up to be the one to have for size and price. I have not seen it in person yet so i cant tell if its as configurable as the AEM, but for the price ..... who cares if it is.

One last thing that hasnt been brought up in this tread is the new Haltech Nexus ECU.... it will be the ECU to have when it comes out. It will accept the harness of the existing Elite 1500 from what i have seen. AND it has a bunch of power circuits built into it. AND it has wifi.so u can make changes and read the data in real time so you dont have to do the USB cord and all that key cycling on and off.

So this new Haltech Nexus R5 will have a built in WIDE BAND CONTROLLER, DATALOGGER WITH WIFI, POWER DISTRIBUTION MODULE AND FULL FEATURE ECU. Wow.......

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The iC-7 is definitely not as customizable as the AEM as far as like the pictures you and what not that you can put in. They have however already had a few really good updates. Button reaction speed is increased, you can now make any of the button have 1-2 functions depending on what you assign it to do and how long you press the button for. They added an odometer feature so you can put that in initially and it will record up from there. Screens are now fully customizable with a limitless color pallet letting you set the colors to all of the different things like gauge label, number color, needle color, day time screen, night time screen which can be set to automatically change to using the ambient light sensor on the dash, etc. I would say bang for the buck, its arguably one of the best options on the market at this time.

I have been talking with Haltech about the Nexus as I was thinking about possibly going that route instead of the 1500. With the COVID pandemic, I was told they are holding off on the release and it may not be released until next year so I am staying with the 1500 for now. The nexus has some awesome features like you mentioned but I think for what most of us are doing, myself included, it's a little overkill but it is super cool none the less. Who knows, once it comes out maybe I'll switch but for now I'll be installing the 1500.

Quote from Doc&Ruby

Did you have to replace the ECU?

What did the price end up being for the dash, wiring, installed, etc?

We did end up replacing the ECU with a Haltech one. We just were not satisfied with the results from the other PCM we were experimenting with. I do not have a final price yet. Mine is not finished and the 2 that are here getting the installs have about 40 miles of extra wires crammed into every nook and cranny making the install take way longer than it should having to get creative with where to put wires, along with unwiring and rewiring things that are in the way. I will have better idea of the total amount of time it would need once mine is finished but the customer slings that have been trapped here since the COVID outbreak come first. The dash, ecu, harness, wide band, and fuel level sensor are $3170. If you want to add on FlexFuel that sensor is an additional $180. It's not a cheap date.

Quote from Shane850

I would be interested in cost and ECU replacement as well. Currently have my Sling at TrakHamr for some work so not far from you for an install before heading back to the west coast.

Troy's shop is only a couple hours north of ZZP. We are currently roughly on a 4-6 week back log of cars in line waiting to be worked on since we were fully shut down for nearly 6 weeks. Depending on how long your Sling is at trak hamr, would dictate whether we can get you in or not. We are working as fast as we can to get cars in and out. If we cannot get you in, I can still get you the parts if you'd like. The harnesses for the Slingshot are made to order and they typically take 2-3 weeks to get. The last harness I ordered took 5 weeks to get since Haltech was also shut down for a bit. Once I have all 3 of these slings done I should be able to work up a set of install instructions. Shoot me an email at kyle@zzperformance.com or you can call me directly at 616.421.4296 if you want to further discuss this and options. If the pandemic has passed and we are back open to the public once you are ready to head home, even if we are not doing an install you should stop by and see the shop. We are only a couple miles off the highway that you'll be taking home.

Quote from OrangeSlingFL

so freaking sexy. How hard are these puppies to install?

It take a little time to wire the additional inputs if you want them in but its not terrible. One nice thing is that Polaris wired a lot of the outputs into the speedo and tach harness so you literally just unpin them from the Polaris harness and plug the wires right into the back of the digital dash. The entire dash needs to come off to be able to secure the digital dash to the steering column. It's more tedious than hard. One of the Slings has 40 miles of extra wires for all of the lights and speakers so I've had to get pretty creative running and hiding everything. But on Slings that do not already have all the extra wiring from lights, switches, and sound systems it's not bad. Just time consuming. I'll have a full kit together later this summer or fall.

I've got one in mine and we have 2 slingshots in our shop getting them as well.

Quote from Bigdog

just ordered my angle drive pinion bracket.

Thanks for the order Bigdog !!

Happy Birthday Grant!!!

Happy Birthday UK_Paul !!!!

Quote from Airborne

Kyle D

Hell yeah Buddy!!

What is the tire dimensions?

Is that your E85 slingshot?

The wheel is 15x10 +45 and the tire is 26/10/R15 The rear caliper was modified to fit the 15" wheel. The Sling is owned by ZZP but it's my platform development car. It currently runs on a blend of E98 and 110 but I can run pump E85 when I'm out and about. I only get about 80-100 miles out of a tank if I am cruising down the highway at 70-80mph. If its mostly in town driving I get about 70mi out of a tank. However I am switching to a Haltech and got the FlexFuel sensor so I can travel longer distances now when friends go out and if we get into an area with no E85 I won't have any issues. No more traveling with a 5gal jug of E85 in shotgun. LOL

Got a new Forgestar D5 Beadlock wheel in today along with a Micky Thompson Pro Bracket Radial tire. Can’t wait to test them out at the strip this weekend as long as the temps warm up enough.

ZZPerformance, Go Fast Not Broke
EST 2000

Thanks for all the birthday wishes guys! Working today as normal. I got 3 Slings here all getting full Haltech setups with digital dashes backed up from when Michigan went into a 4 week work shut down and I wanna send them all home to make room for more people waiting. No rest for the wicked!! I'll see you all at Maggie this year if you're going.

Quote from jck53

where did you get the pinion brace

You can find them here https://zzperformance.com/coll…lingshot-pinion-brace-kit I should have more ready in about 2 weeks. I can't seem to make them fast enough. My last run of 46 sold out in 1 day. Not a bad problem to have I guess.

Quote from Roadhawg

Installed the pinion brace today. It went on like a charm.

The only thing Kyle D didn't mention in the instructions was the potential to lose a few drops of differential fluid during the process, but no harm, no foul... 😉

We were unable to eliminate the gap completely, but made sure it was equal on both the top and bottom and all of the bolts are nice and tight. In the end, I took it for a spin around the block and left the cup holders out. Everything was pretty quiet and felt smooth. All in all, I would chock up another successful mod. Thanks, Kyle. Oh, and the coil cover looks great, too... 😊

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You may have 1-2 threads still showing once it is tightened down. As long as the gap on the top and bottom are even, you're good to go. I have also updated the instructions to warn people of the potential of losing a few drops of gear oil as well.

Quote from Airborne

Dave@DDMWorks  wokka  Kyle D  FunCycle  Edward Neal  SoCal  MACAWS  Bigdog  BKL

My scooter used to have 710 hp (peak 1,246 hp for about 1 second) from a hybrid system I rigged up with a competition drag racing electric motor. LOL

Thought you guys might get a kick out it!

I made a special coupler to engage the electric motor into the belt drive weight reduction holes.

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That is a wicked project! Pretty awesome to see someone start experimenting with really outside the box ideas.

Quote from DER

Thanks for the info. The T1R is what I plan to try next.

I loved the T1R when I used those.

Quote from PierceArrow

Hey gang, long time no see! I’ve been reading up on posts, but wanted to share some mods I’ve been doing and weight in on the coolant. I just converted all my lines over and my tank to the ones sold by DDM Works. The tank had split right on the seam. Luckily my amazing wife had ordered all this stuff for me and I just hadn’t had any free time to put it on. I used this opportunity to flush all the dex cool out of the system and fill it with Peak Final Charge. I will say imho there is a noticeable difference on how hot the sling runs. This coolant is usually used on over road trucks but is used for any severe engine condition both gas and diesel. It’s guaranteed 8 years or 1,000,000 miles. I had considered the waterless coolant but thought if I ever had a roadside emergency this would be easier to get my hands on. Our local farm and fleet sells it for $14 per gallon. Overall I am very pleased with the result. I changed all the fluids to Amsoil products and added the ZZP rear pinion brace. A must have for any sling!!!!

For my next addition I would like to add a Fab Factory intake manifold but since they’re no longer being made... I’m hoping to pick one up used!

Any who, I hope to change the sway bar, links and mounts yet this week also should the weather hold out

PierceArrow Thanks for the order! I think MACAWS may have one of those intakes laying around for sale. However, I believe he said he also made LESS power with it.

Quote from Airborne

MACAWS Nice, you running the IC-7?

Kyle D Were you using an Elite 1500 with the IC-7?

Dave@DDMWorks I might be deleting the ABS and the whole micro-controller under it, anyone have experience with this?

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Yes, I am in the process of putting in the 1500 Elite and the iC-7 dash into mine. I actually have 3 slingshots at ZZP right now all getting Haltechs and the iC-7 dash.

Quote from MACAWS

I put that sale on hold for now!

So we will have to swap rides next time you need a push. I sure hope you fixed that thing I am getting to old for that pushing shit!

100% on board with that. Swapped starters and it did it once after that but hasn't since. Oddly you would think it would do it at 1/2 mile events where I'm beating the shit out of it and hot lapping but never does.