Posts by studiopeg

  • Look at these pictures of a new OEM 2017 dash please

    Quote from WingShot

    It’s really hard to see the problem on a pic. Does it not slide down over the sides because it’s to narrow or if you can make it go into position why is pushing back at you. ?



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

    The angle of the radio opening/switches section is way off. It should be angled downward more whereas this new dash has it angled outward more. I can't even push it into place, the incorrect angle just springs it right back outwards again. Two flimsy push pins will never hold against that pressure. It will be at least a month to get parkshark.com to hear from polaris on this, for me to ship it back, for them to ship me another, and who knows if the same thing will happen. I'm honestly about ready to sell the slingshot, I've had nothing but problems. Not with the slingshot itself but the mods. I'm really tired of it all.

  • Look at these pictures of a new OEM 2017 dash please

    Quote from Roadhawg

    Beats me. I've never heard of that vendor and wonder how reliable they are or if you simply got what you paid for? Have you contacted them about it? What did they say they would do?

    they said they buy directly from Polaris. They asked me to send pictures which I did. They said they would contact Polaris and show them the pictures. Looks like this will take another month. I have very bad luck with my slingshot.

  • Look at these pictures of a new OEM 2017 dash please

    I had to get a new dash. Bought from partshark.com, supposed to be OEM.


    The angle of the radio/switches section is so far off that I can’t install it. To do so would mean forcing it down where it is held by only two push pins. They would never hold it against the strain.


    So did I get a defective dash or do they all come like this???


    see attached pics

  • Calling all NavAtlas Double Din mount owners!!!

    I had to replace my dash, and received the new one from partshark.com. It's supposed to be OEM from Polaris.


    In addition to the dash being so warped I cannot install it, my NavAtlas Double Din kit doesn't fit. So I don't know if I got a too-wide kit or if the dash is too narrow.


    The problem is the perimeter walls around the dash opening (not the cut out opening itself). The walls width is 8 1/8", and the NavAtlas width is 8 1/4". The actual dash cut-out opening is 7 7/16" which isn't a problem but I wonder if that if off also on this new dash.


    Can someone who has this mount please just measure the face and tell me the width of yours so I can determine where the actual problem is?


    I have the feeling it is the crappy new dash....


    Thanks!

  • Seat Belts

    Quote from Kyle D

    I run harnesses from Team Tech. They're made here in MI, They're just as nice as any harness that I've ever used, and they're a fraction of the price. They are fully customizable down to color of stitching, webbing, pads, pull tabs, connection type, etc. Turn around time is super quick. I ordered my 6pt and had it before the end of the week. I went with the standard harness and added the things I wanted. They will also re-certify them and not force you to buy a whole new set of harnesses. I would stay away from the harnesses sold on slingshot specific sites. All of the ones I have seen and used are pretty flimsy or use cheap parts and they usually cost more than a good set. A basic 5pt from team tech is $153 but PRP will charge you $178 for a 4pt and they fit like garbage. I have no skin in the game or affiliation with Team Tech but I'm all about great products that you are not overcharged for and also supporting MI made products. You can check them out here https://teamtechmotorsports.co…rnesses/standard-harness/

    these look great. I have to figure out what each feature does but looks like this is what I will order. Does it require a bar?

  • Is it fairly easy to replace hoses?

    Quote from Dave@DDMWorks

    The coolant re-route helps the steam that builds up in all engines around the cylinders get out of the system easier and get back to the coolant tank where it can condense back into coolant and go back into the system. It is a great idea on turbo/supercharger engines since you are generating more heat in the system, even on naturally aspirated engines it is a good idea.


    Hope that helps,

    Dave

    hey Dave... going to install your coil cover tomorrow. it says "begin by removing the plastic retainer located on the passenger side front of the stock valve cover." I don't see what that is referring to on my 2017 slingshot....... ???? Thanks

  • Is it fairly easy to replace hoses?

    Quote from chavey2

    Yeah, but you've already spent $400+ on the tank and hoses. This last $45 is worth it. I promise you.


    Since you got the tank, did you get the reroute hose too? You'll want that since you got the tank.


    My suggestion is to get a contrasting color to your engine and hoses. I see hoses are orange, so I would recommend Black or Silver. What color theme are you doing on your engine? Have you painted the valve cover yet?

    Now stop. Just stop that. it never ends!!! I just got done ordering those clamps and now more?? LOL LOL Ok I will look up the re-route hose thingy. Thanks for the help. I think ;)

  • Is it fairly easy to replace hoses?

    Quote from chavey2

    Easy. 1-2 hrs including rehydration breaks. If you haven't already, get the DDM replacement coolant tank a (Edit - Doh!) and do both at the same time. I've done it on 2 of my SS's and another on a friends.


    You can save yourself 1/2 that time by just forgetting the lower radiator hose. It takes an hour by itself and you'll never see it anyways. At least, that's where the problem was on mine.

    Thanks!!! I will forget about that one if you cannot see it... no point other than to upgrade to silicone.

  • Is it fairly easy to replace hoses?

    I have new DDM works silicone coolant hoses and coolant tank. It will be my weekend project if I can handle it.


    Difficult?????


    My dash is already off due to other modifications, if that helps.


    If you know me, you know I try to do everything I can by myself but I sure do ask all the advice here I can get first!

  • Tab sheared off on outer driver's panel

    So I noticed today that my driver's side outside panel (outside of the armrest panel) has one of the 2 attachment tabs sheared off.


    yes... we all know the bad luck I have...


    Ordering a replacement panel is pretty pricey. It's a 2017 so the warranty is over.


    Anyone have any thoughts of at least getting it secure a little more in some way? The reason I noticed the tab was sheared off was because just touching the panel I could feel it moving. I knew something was wrong.

  • Need a rocker ignition switch

    My new double din is in and the ignition start button is dangling through the opening of the switch hole the momentary rocker is going in. I was just about to start on the project. The start button goes to a detachable connector (which I can barely reach through the opening), and that connector on the other end has the pink, yellow, and black wires that go to the ignition.


    However, the wires coming OUT of the connector going to the start button itself are blue, red, and black. Since black is ground, I assume the red and blue correspond to the pink and yellow. Why do they do this, just keep the wires all the same color so laymen like me don't get fearful they are going to fry something....


    So what do I do with the ground wire? Since it won't be used because I am not using an illuminated switch, do I tape the end with electrical tape or is there something better? How about a little heat shrink.