Rubber washer that comes with solenoid actually is same thread as torx screw from skin so just used the other end of the bolt and just zip tied my map sensor for now
I think this is too close to the exhausts. Solenoids usually don't deal well with heat, I would take father away from exhaust heat exposition
One note on solenoid placement, those things usually don't like high heat, so I would say amx 200F, so yes it needs to be close to the wastegate, but you better have a bit more tube and a uncooked solenoid.
I placed my 4 port solenoid on the deck where the glove box is, I will take a pic when I get home.
You can download the log to your laptop and send me the file. I can look at it from here.
The AEM logs around 2h of run time, so you should clear the log before a ride and try to get it to stutter, once you have it happen, download the log to your laptop right away so we know to look at the end of the log for the issue.
Sorry "kn" is a typo, fingers too big for stupid iPhone keyboard. Lol
You don't need to upgrade anything, but you can set the dump valve reaction pressure by swapping springs. Make sure the right one is in there, I am not familir with alpha spring color.
1st thing I would suggest is the view your logs in AEM Data software and not the table for the failsafe because it doesn't give you a pattern.
On AEM data, you can view data more precise, and also you can playback the sequence, so you can actually see the rpm at 5800 then go down to 4200 on the shift and the associated AFR and map reading so you know you are looking at the right spot.
The way you see it now, its impossible to know if that splash of dots is just caused by lifting your foot off the throttle and coasting or if its at wot shift.
If you have the failsafe then you need to plug it into a laptop, clear the logs and go for a ride and put it in a situation where its doing your issue.
I assume you have the rpm wire hooked up kn the AEM? If not, get it done.
Got a friend with an Alpha on 2 bar map, does the exact same thing on some shifts. Looking at the logs, we can see it goes rich into the 9s for some moment before coming back alive.
I had the same issue on my VI kit, fixed it by putting a 1 level stronger kn the bov.
Then got fed up of the gremlins of a canned tune and working on an ecu I can't tune and chucked the ecu to install a Haltech Elite.
I'm ready for Canada depending on the election and will be moving close to @iNewton!
Just kidding... Maybe...
better be quick before we have a wall between the two countries. Lol
Side impact on this kind of rim will tend to do this. Glad your ok.
Here is a quick low res vid I took on 1st startup, it gives an idea of how good it looks...
Btw, the Haltech dash reacts faster that oem dash for rpm variations. When I bliped the throttle, the change whas faster on the IQ3 to display RPM vs the oem needle, there is quite a considerable lag in the oem dash to respond to data.
I think I have found someone that takes his slingshot apart more than I do.....
@iNewton that looks like a factory setup. Give us some picture of the gauges and what data they are able to show you.
I still have a lot of work to do on the dash for configuration, but it can display pretty much anything you want. You can flip thru 4 "pages" of data using a switch so you could have one config with speed, rpm, fuel afr etc for street use, another one that replaces speed with oil temp or what ever, its really customizable.
The way my dash is set for the moment, I have external gauges for oil temp and oil pressure on left pillar, water temp and voltage on right pillar (which I will get rid of, the haltech already displays this), center mounted is EGT, dash mounted is my AEM failsafe wideband which is also hooked up to the haltech using the analog out of the AEM. I like having the external gauge just in case, also easier to read the AFR color (I set mine for green between 10 and 13, yellow from 13 to 15, and red beyond 15, so that I just make sure it lights green when I am at WOT).
Once I get everything working I will post pics and vid.
And btw, for that part about taking the SS appart, this engine was built in my garage remember ? ;p
Probably would have went the DDM way if they offered the engine when I started this project, but at the time, no one was offering pnp built engines, so I did it myself.
He is the advancement on the dash installation.
I am no fabricator, but I did come up with a nice way to install the racepak IQ3 in the dash and almost make it look stock...
I got a small body panel repair metal sheet from local harware store and using metal scissors, made a bracket that would replace the clusters.
I cut out the center portion of the dash to fit the IQ3, this is a test fit of the setup
My tools for this job lol
Then got some carbon fiber wrap and covered the bracket with it:
Using 90 deg aluminum to hold the entire setup in sandwitch
Reinstalled to the column cover
Now just need to reinstall my assault steering (which for some stupid reason is now trigger the horn by itself...)
here is pic of engine bay with mefi connectors magicaly gone:
Gonna make setup of oil cooler lines much simpler.
Here are pics of final installation of the ecu inside the glovebox. Main advantage of doing it like this is that
1) you can lock the box and not get the ecu stolen (happened to a budy of mine, got his oem ecu stolen... Wtf)
2) much much cooler than sitting in the engine bay
3) opens up space in the engine bay for oil cooler etc.
4) easy access to wiring, ecu etc.
Now, the provided harness from haltech is much too long for this, they initially assumed poeple would install it in the footwell ceiling, but I didn't like that idea.
I have advised them to offer a shorter harness for guys who would like to copy this setup. I don't have a radio in my center console so I can hide the extra harness wire there, but this might be an issue for SS with a radio in there.
Here is a pic of how I got the harness to come in the glove box:
Cutting the plastic is very easy, just using a basic solid cutter blade.
Test fitting the ecu, i have one hole lined up with the rib on the ceilling of the box, to setup the angle to be able to not bend the harness too much and cause stress on the wires and plug, and making sure glove box can close.
The I used plastic spacers for the 3 other holes to fill the gaps, and screwed it into the plastic of the top. Note the two rear screws need to be pretty long. The 2 front ones, not so much.
Here I wired up the ends of the boost solenoid to a deutsch sealed connector, makes replacing components easier if need be:
The Haltech harness has provisions for aux connectors for inputs and outputs the Elite has available and not used by the SS, so I made a harness for hooking up my AEM wideband to it, along with the boost controler solenoid:
I still have 3 other digital outs I can use.
This is the final connections made and finished for the ecu installation in the box:
Here you see how long (too long) the harness is after its connected to the ecu in glove box.
Now for the mefi connectors, I took out the bracket for the fuse box and ecu, and cut off the part where the ecu normally sits. More space for other things, and it doesn't look like there is unused stuff there:
Then, the mefi connectors have been tucked back into the center console so that they don't show in the engine bay anymore. Connect the haltech harness to the mefi connectors, tuck neetly in center dash, and that is it for installing a Haltech in your SS if you keep your oem dash (which will work out of the box btw):
Now next step here is setup of the IQ3 dash that will replace my cluster.
Can you post up the parts you used. Like your setup and would like yo do the same.
I will get a parts list for you, but be advised that this setup will not work on stock ECU.
This setup has no valve to keep pressure in the line when pump turns off. The stock ecu controls the fuel based on duty cycle, and it pulses the fuel pump on and off to achieve fuel flow it needs for the engine for a given load.
On this setup, this means that fuel pressure isn't constant, and runs erratic on stock ecu. It would need to be reprogrammed to run the pump non-stop.
On my Haltech ecu this is not a problem, but on stock ecu, guess you would need to check with Bob to see if its doable or not.
You could jump the relay for the fuel pump into a heavy duty switch to manually turn the pump on and off as required, but that will give you a check engine saying pump relay is stuck shorted.
I also have no idea how well that would work on a stock tune or bob's tune, I have not tested it.
iNewton
Nice work. Can't wait to see that all dialed in.
Exactly what data can you direct to the digital dash?
I am not sure yet, still haven't played with the dash other than plug it in and turn it on.
Looking at the config software, which doesn't look fun to play with, it looks like you can display pretty much any channel you want, plus the dash has 4 "pages" that you can switch from, and setup you display different for each page (ex: for racing, speed isn't really necessary, RPM is more important, shift lights etc) so you can configure pages to suit different scenarios.
Once I have it instaled I will show you what it can do.
@MiM yeah, speakers... It would only add weight lol. I have speakers in my helmet though they sound meh, and anyways with my exhaust being a 12 inch resonator straight from the turbo, I don't see any use to getting sound out of there to add on top of all this lol.
@MiM I am in Montreal, Quebec. Whenever you feel like dropping by, you are welcome.
The first install is always the hardest. Once I will have done it on mine, replicating on others will be easier.
I just finished setting up the Haltech Elite 1500 in my Sling, and got it to start without blowing anything up. Yé.
Works very well. I have still some work to do, but I can confirm that it works with the EPAS system, the oem dash works too.
I am the first person to test the quick connect harness production version, and I have submitted some corrections for their instructions that where wrong (some I/O assignements where incorrect) and they responded by actually making a firware update for the ECU to support timings from the LE9 and SS Config (version 2.17).
Talk about turn around!
I have rented a dyno for an entire day in 2 weeks, and looking forward to dialing this machine in.
Till then, here are some shots from the process:
Getting everything layed out:
Close up of the quick connect plugs, they are solid and heavy and very well sealed:
Firmware update to support LE9 timings:
Working on I/O assignements for the SS, as Haltech didn't have this for now (guess who will give it to them hmmm... lol)
Getting the IQ3 dash to work is as easy as plugging it in the ecu... You can even keep the oem dash if you want, and use cluster for additional information.
Also testing the Analog out for the AEM Wideband, works #1.
Some misc shots of the ESP software screen.
Got the engine started, so now next step is the set the base timing of the engine, so I need to buy a timing light. Oh well...
That's a pretty good deal for a nice setup!
Might take you up on this offer for a 2nd le9 I am building.
Well simple rule of thumb, if you need to calculate angle to torque de bolt, its dead once you remove it.
Ran into first issue hopefully only one. Of course new motor came of automatic so clutch bearing can't wait till morning to take a chance on gm having once so last minute trip to part store for new clutch since that's the only option for me. I'll keep you guys posted
Just fyi, if you needed to replace the fly wheel, those bolts are torque to yield, you can't reuse them...
