Posts by samowens44

Quote from EricRedSL

this is the umpteenth read on how to grease the U-joint. When I grease mine I take out both cup holders so I grease from the front while I'm looking through the back. makes it much easier to see what you're doing and get the needle into the grease fitting.

That would work better for sure, but I have a mod I did on my front holder of placing a thick foam insulated coolie cup, thicker than rear holder areas, that I would have to redo and the back one is a thinner coolie and is easy to remove. This keeps my drink cooler. Discussion and new ideas make this where folks will try these ideas, Thanks for your input. While we are talking about the cup holders, take a look at my video on how I did it. It works!!

Here the my solution to one handed Grease Gun Operation for the U-Joint access through the Cup Holder. FunCycle has the real solution, but I did not have the Pipe Nipple, so I looked around my Garage and found a solution that will work. I had all the material available in my Garage. I am sharing to give you some Basic Logic Training along with performing a Maintenance task. Open your mind to solving problems with what you have at the time. Now always keep safety in mind when using this creative thinking.
Basic Logic Training along with performing a Maintenance Task.

I have had a person ask, what are the small rope cleats on the area above the cup holders. That is where I store my Seat Belt Buckle. I also have seat belt tension adjusters that allow the Belt buckle to hang there ready to use and easy access. Yes, I have two video on the subject.

For those that have not seen what is available on my youtube channel, here is my Playlist of how-to video. This is over two year in the making and still adding.

Polaris Slingshot How to Video - YouTube

Quote from flipr

Good timing, I greased mine last night. Pulled both cup holders so I could see what I was doing better.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app

Great to hear. I hope all will now try to do this procedure to keep that U-Joint in great shape, I have video for other maintenance procedure that all can do yourself. All that do maintenance them selves, show go to the Maintenance schedule of the Owners Manual and make sure to do all the required maintenance. You will save a lot of time and feel great that you can be better connected to your Slingshot. Check that Battery also, yes, video on that also. Terminals will need cleaning and possible water in the battery. Be safe and and observe safe work practices, think safety before you do anything.

FunCycle has added a good suggestion to make this process even easier, use a 1/8 " pipe nipple of a length to do away with flex hose and allow one hand operation. Much Better! See how this works folks, on thing leads to another. Now get to lubing the U-Joint.

Sweet and simple. Oh, you did not know there was a grease fitting. Here it is all need to know how to do this, or make sure the people that take care of your Slingshot do this. Say to them, how do you grease the U-Joint? I am not sure this is being done. It must be greased at some point or failure will occur. It is not hard to do yourself.

I had this same problem, The antenna Amp module is bad. I jumped around the module and now my Fin Brake light works. They will order the part or see why it does not work. I have my brake light is more important than the Radio. Here is the video I created to help others with this problem.

Quote from FunCycle

They are not much on detail work, when I got to Clarksville I was having trouble keeping the hood latched. When I got to Mitch's Friday night, I found out the bolts were not even tight ( I could screw the right side out with my fingers) and the hood was all the way forward and that was the problem. Pushed the hood back with @KayTwos assistance and tightened no problems since. Found a couple more problems since then. Usual excuse they were in a hurry trying to get finished for me. Only took 7 weeks to get the parts and to get the work done. I still did not get the TricLed signal light from the right side (it was on the Sling when they got it)

That is not good. At the point of unacceptable! I sure like them for giving me information that was very helpful, your issue is quite different, thanks for sharing your experience. Lets give them 1 Ataboy and 1 Aweshit!

Yes, FunCycle, I have not had them to for any service work. I am in Florida now.

Quote from flipr

Sam, Snazzy is a 2017, LE right? That model year info may be helpful.
I had my light out but didn't notice the antenna, but I was just installing the brake modulator flasher

I have the 2017 Midnight Cherry SL LE and this may be a premium part that is not advertised. I have not tested the FM Radio to see if this improves the reception. I wished this was a feature that was part of advertising so we would know for sure. All my info comes from the tech at Mall of Georgia Indian Dealer, Isic was the Tech I spoke with and told me of this information. It helped solve my issue with the light. My knowledge comes from all sources that come to me. I will always share with you!

Quote from TheRock

Just FYI for folks out there, I believe this is a model year change because I am 98% certain the 2015 models are not wired this way with the 2nd plug in the rear and the radio power module in the tail sectionI

I believe you are correct. I know a lot of folks complained about the FM reception problems. This moduale is an amplifier and gets its power from the 3rd Stop Light. But, it appears that it can cause a problem with the 3rd Fin Brake Light as it did with mine. I now do not get my FM radio to work for reception. Something new that I did not know until I had my failure.

Yes, Snazzy did not light up fully when I hit the brakes as someone notified me. I called the dealer and of course they do not have a light in stock if that were the problem. They did say that the light is seldom the problem. So, here is what I did for my own troubleshooting. This is geared as most of my video, for the guy or ladies that does not do a lot of their own work or look into a problem. For the hot dogs this is way to hard to watch. I want the newbies to get on the fast track to see that this stuff is not that hard, with just a little How-To video. You can also use this information if you want to install a brake light modulator at the 3rd brake light under the fin. I have a 2017 SL LE, and not sure if the early models have the device I show to go around. A test light can help show if power is present at the plug to help isolate the problem in that case.
Get a Tox T25 bit and you are almost there. Watch the video.

Quote from Texas T

I have learned, all hoods and latches are not created equal. Some open easy, some won't open at all. I've adjusted, kicked, cussed, hammered, ground off half, pulled, swapped brackets, added extended hinges, greased, oiled and bled on my latches. Most of the time, the hood opens fine.

Welcome back Sam.

Thanks @Texas T, All of the above, I agree! We have to learn our latches, grease always help overcome adjustment and everything else. The back latches are the ones that have the great problem for receiving the striker, a drop from good height for factory hinge and my technique of pushing from the side and middle of hood pushes for the Extended Range Hood Hinge. I have learned my latches and can latch all latches every time, yes lube I have also.

Quote from Bigdog

I have all my latches opening at the same time...I hear one snap....can we lubricate the inside of the latch cables? I’m afraid I’m going to snap off the hood release lever..

So you have a hard press for the latch test. You need to find which latch or cable is causing the hard resistance. If you pull the latch lever, you can slip the cable connector out that goes to back latch one at a time until you have isolated the one that causes the resistance. I would look at the cables for any kink or sharp angles. I don't think they need lubing. Good luck. I would think it will be one latch or a cable or one side.

Quote from Bigdog

Sam, right now it’s out of line because the tube is hitting the frame and kinda pushing it over...
I need to look at it in the daylight..

Something else...in the video the hood on that sling hardly takes any pressure to push the hood release ....mine was hard to push before with the factory hinges and it’s hard with the extended hinges....

Get you some light in to examine and compare to mine. Take the Gas Lift Assist Shock off the Lift Support arm and then you can see what is happening. Good light to see by. Now to test the latches for if the cables are binding and what may be causing the hard hood release. Open the hood fully, Now with fully open, go around to each latch and press the high latch catch down until the latch clicks. With all latches latched, press the hood release and see how hard it is. If it is the same amount of tension, then you may have a bind in one or more of the latches or cables. Underneath each latch where the cable attaches, you can manually pull that and test each latch for smooth operation. A kinked cable could be the problem. The the latches are all smooth then you may have Latch pins and strikers need to be lubed, everything works better with grease. I put a light coat of grease on the latches and all strikers.

Look at what I see as the problem.

Here is mine to compare.

Quote from Bigdog

Sam can you post pictures of the instructions that came with your hinges?

The Instruction you receive with the product are correct except for showing the wrong position of the Rear Link Arms. The Lift Support arm is show correctly assembled and all other parts of the instructions and photos are correct. Now the Rear Link arm can easily be turned around one at a time. Just put the hood in the full upright position and unscrew the mounting bolts from above and below and just turn with the rail pointing up. This will not correct the problem you are showing. I am not sure if your pivot plate is mounted on the correct side, I can not see enough details in your photos. Examine the plates and look at the photo on your top, it smooth side is towards the engine, that is the driver side. If it is wrong, the other would be wrong. That is the only thing I can think to check for sure. The Lift Support bracket must be flush with the hood mounting bolts. If they are up on the edge of the Pivot plate it would tilt out like it shows to be. Look at my photos very closely for each detail. See if this shot helps.

Quote from Bigdog

Sam look at the top picture from my instructions...your long brackets are upside down according to my instructions..
My other bracket is on just like yours...

The instructions are wrong, if you look below, the flat part of the arm hits the frame bracket. It binds the hinge and keeps from alignment adjustments. Close the hood and look at how it hits the frame, I called the manufacturer and Madstad said it should be installed as I have it. Look on page 4 of this thread and I have photos of how it clears the frame with the arm mounted the way I have. Here is Madstad the Manufacturers video and you can see when they go close up his rear hinge are is mounted the way I have it. I found this out through having problems making a hood alignment. You can not move the hood back as it will bind even more. The rail you will see is cut down to give clearance of the frame bracket. I venture to say most folks have them upside down. You would not know until you try to make a hood alignment.

Quote from Bigdog

These are pictures from my instructions.

Everything looks correct

See the tube rubbing the frame

Your assemble is over much more than mine. Can't see enough of the pivot plate to see which side you have mounted out.

Quote from Bigdog

I took some pictures today of my hood with the hinge extensions.

This is where the hood stops when you start to close it.

In this picture you can see how angled the bracket is. The hydrualic assist bolts to it.

This is the view looking at it the other way.
I don’t know if that’s the way they all look or I screwed it up? I had to leave the bolt pretty loose so it would move. Tight it would not move at all.

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As the hood is resting on the shock as you are preparing to close, mine does not bind it is straight. Now my photo is with the hood in the full upright position.
This is mine at the rest point, my bracket is straight You also have the Rear Long Link arm mounted backwards. Look at my link arm in the first photo. Looks like Your lift support arm is bent as you say. Look closely at how the lift support arm is mounted.