Posts by samowens44

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    Sam I have great news for you and all my fellow slingers....I am currently producing glossy 8”x12” autographed pictures of my 2015 fast gray slingshot. Prices for different packages start at $75...

    Post a copy for me and I will see if it will fit one of the Months on my Calendar, after I work it over with some of my magic. Hope you sell a lot of them, everyone needs an autographed copy of you Slingshot.

    thank you! Wish there were still RadioShack’s around town.

    Yes, Radio Shack was great for resistors. You have displayed the say ones I got, a 5 pack. Now when you are getting supplys, pick up some 3 or 4 ft test leads with clips on each end and you could just clip the wire ends to resistor and do a test ride, make sure you tape all bare wires or you may have a new problem. Then go get the soldering iron and solder along with shrink tubing to do it up right. Lets do the temp hook up and test and find out if it corrects the problem. Once sure all is ok, finish the connections permanently. If other side becomes a problem, you know what to do.

    Now if it does fail, you may need higher resistance, you just connect another resistor in series with the first one. This will give you 200 ohms. I don't think we are going to need this, but it will save you letting me know and what is the next step.

    You have 5 resistors, you go until it works, so get some. Once you arrive at the correct resistance, we order that resistor value. SoCal , you are going to pioneer what it takes to get the Switchback Lights to work without failure. We are cheering you on!!!

    Thank you samowens44 !


    So knowing that the signals work (switchbacks included) putting a 100 ohm resister in line right before the slingmods connection point on the yellow lead should do the trick?

    SoCal with the swichbacks passing test of lighting properly, then you move to add the 100 ohm resitstor, can be any value close to that if you can't find 100 ohms. to be clear, I attached the photo with some directions as to where to install the resistor along with soldering techniques and using heat shrink tubing.


    Folks, I have created a video for the whole world to understand the flasher module of the Slingshot. I have seen numerous post on all the forums of the same problems we have discussed. No one has a sulution. I do, and my video will tell all. Watch all the way through, I cover it all and where we need to go for the true solution above the relay.


    Thank you samowens44 for your insight on this. Please don’t take my slow rolling on this As a lack of interest or not being appreciative. Hopefully I will get to test this this week or in the next few days when my plate gets a little cleaner. Believe me, this quandary Is deeply underneath my skin and I would definitely like to go with the resistor as opposed to buying the switchbacks again with the possibility of the new ones failing as well.

    Hey, I understand and am just here as you need help. Keep me updated and I will give you the next step when we get your results from test.

    Could it be the actual turn signal switch on the steering wheel?

    it can not be the signal switch, because it only supplies the Flasher module a signal to start a flashing signal to the turn signal lights. If the switch were bad, it would just interrupt the operation and the lights would just stop flashing and stay off. Dash indicator lights would be off.
    problem is now going to be one of the following:

    Switchback light has a bad driver module that is allowing too much current to flow.
    Switchback is working find, but the LED strip is causing too much current to flow.


    SoCal has proven the entire flasher system is working properly. Problem has to be with the Switchback device. We are now going to test the Switchback and from the results will either change the Switchback for a new one, or add a 100 ohm resistor to the lead that goes to the turn signal lead. I am betting the resistor.

    Allllllright samowens44 here we go.... 245 miles with out a hitch! All stock an no issues. So, with the right side switch back being the one that did not work (left one always did even with the solid green) can we assume that the “little black box “ on the right switch back is the culprit!? And if so is it replaceable without having to buy a whole new set??


    making headway 😎

    Great, you have isolated the problem. We have one other thing to do to determine if the box is bad or drawing too much current. You will need to follow the outline test in my post for testing the switchback lights. You ground the black wire and another lead with pos battery touch the each of the other lead. You can test the swichback by turning the ignition switch to on this should light the white running lights if you left them connected up. Then all you need to to is touch the yellow lead so that it blinks. 1 sec on 1 sec off. The running lights should go out and the amber should blink. Do it for about 10 sec. If it works then the driver is most likely good.

    You can hook a 100 ohm resistor to the yellow lead and the other end will go on the connector. I would finish with installing the resistor in the wire by cutting and soldering in the resistor. Test it first with test leads with clips on the end. Drive test it. I will send you a link to where I got my resistors.

    That will be the final test. You are almost to the solution to the real problem. Keep me updated and I will guide you all the way.

    Hope you had a nice ride today.


    Member, I was sorry to hear Ross will not be producing a Calendar this year. I have purchase the really great calendar he produces each year. It showcases the members Slingshots as part of the Calendar Display. Members submit their Photos during the year for consideration for being in the Calendar for each of the months. I hope someone will step up and carry on with the Calendar.

    This leaves me open to display my calendar that is not to the level Ross produces, it only a link, but you can download and make you own calendar prints if you like. Or just view the link. I create Photo edit creations, called Photo Shop to most. I select a background and then find a Slingshot subject along with members sometimes and create a photo from two or three photos. I am not completing with true photography, just doing the thing I love to do.

    I thought I would take this opportunity to create my own calendar with some of my creations as the main photos. You will see members and their Slingshots in some of them. This is my thing to do for our members. As you view the calendar, you can download months, slide show, and open full screen. Explore and enjoy viewing something different.


    Sam Owens 2020 Calendar Link


    Sam Owens 2020 Calendar PDF

    So would we need a heavy duty sec light relay?

    No, the Sec Light relay is just to supply power to the side markers, the secondary lights (the outside Lights in front) and to the Turn signal Flasher Module. The key to the whole problem is that the stock Flasher module needs to be upgraded to a higher range current range to accommodate all the accessories. If one of the Slingmods or Slingshot only, or Twist Dynamics would engineer a higher power Flasher module is the only answer, first one that does will solve the problem for all and we will not be having the trouble. The Flasher Module is the Problem and we can not do anything about it until they provide us with an option. Who will be first. The current Flasher Module is inadequate to handle the new accessories that all want to add. Tell em Sam Owens said that!! Non of the relays are the problem and most likely non of the new mods.

    I remember the days when we only had hands for turn signals.... Hands and fingers....

    In the early days, cars only had one tail light and the tag was mounted underneath it. Flasher was not invented yet, When I took drivers ed in the late 50's, they had us use hand signals our our turns and stopping, hand pointed down and palm facing back. You could easily erase your turn indicator with change in your arm position, and wave it around to signify your final decision of what direction you intend to go.

    For all the new Owners, this is an area that will be of interest as you look into all the things you can add to your new Slingshot to make it personal. Lighting! It is one of the first things that you will look at to add. At some point you may want to add LED's to the Turn Signal system. I want to give a heads up, by giving you information about how the Turn Signal System works. It is important to know as some additions to the turn signal circuit can cause your signals to fail altogether or intermittently fail to flash. Another problem can be that they flash with the ignition switch in the on position but engine not running. When the engine is running they may fail to flash.

    Read all of this Thread Post before attempting to install Mods to the Turn Signal Leads. This subject has been discussed on this forum and many other forums. No solutions have been discussed. I am giving solutions and it works and is simple to overcome the issues to have the mods to work. Read on, I am giving our new owners a heads up on heading off problems. The Turn Signal Flasher Module is a computer that monitors the lights for proper current flow, mess with the system and you can have problems unless you listen to Sam Owens, he has been where you are trying to get!!!!

    Let me explain how the Flasher Module works, it is the key part to the Turn Signal System. The Front and rear LED Turn Signal LEDs are another part and the Turn Signal Lever is the third part.

    The Flasher Module is powered up when the Ignition key is turned to the on position. It is activated when the TS Lever is operated to left or right turn position. A Flashing signal is sent to the front and rear TS LEDs. The module has a Limit range of current that allows the LEDs to flash. If the current is out of this range it will not flash. The low range exceeded would be LED burned out or bad connection. The High range limit exceeded would be adding extra LEDs to the circuit or a ground on signal lead. The current draw of the LEDs you add could put the system into fault and cause all kinds of Flasher problems. The quickest way to test for this is to disconnect any Aux lighting added to the Turn Signal Leads. Take a test drive and see if all is working.


    I am posting a wiring diagram of my Aux Turn Signal Indicator LED strips I installed on Snazzy. I had a problem with the Flasher failing to flash the lights. at all. My LED Strips were drawing too much current. I added a 100 ohm resistor in series as shown in the wiring diagram. Now indicator Strips are flashing with my turn signals. The resistor allow the Current Limits to be met. You could use a variable resistor (Poteneometer) to determine what resistance your LEDs will be needed for you project.


    Also posting the Flasher Module with pin layout along with a video to show you where the Flasher Module is located and how to gain access to it. You could wire your connection points to the module plug instead of going to the turn signal light plug. This would be for where you are installing your LEDS maybe like I did on the Rear View Mirror Arm. My video will help understand this.


    It seems a lot of folks have had problems in this area, I want to help you understand and avoid a problem or help solve it if you have a problem.





    Flasher Module Access


    My LED Strip Indicators to keep me from driving with turn signals still on after a turn.




    Here are some Thread discussions about members troubles with turn signal failure with Swichback LEDs installed.

    Turn signal question

    Turn signal problems

    I think the Flasher module when it fails has to have power cycled off to release the fault that is recognized by the Module checking circuit for limits exceeded. I think your test tomorrow will give us some new information to analyze. The system is designed to prevent you from driving with a fault in your turn signal lighting and wiring. It would be unsafe to drive with the flashers not blinking the front light and blinking rear light. but your dash indicators show blinkers working. The problem could also be a grounded lead which would be the high limit failure.

    The safety feature means when you add LEDs or lighting of any kind the the Turn Signal Leads, you can possibly have a night mare to understand when the Module detects something wrong with the current limits. Good Luck my friend.

    I need to add an important piece of information about the Flasher System. The power from the ignition switch does go thru the Sec Lights Relay that is operated when the ignition switch is turned to on position. This is important as if there is a problem with the sec lights relay not operating or bad contacts, you will not have side marker lights and the turn signals will not even start the module to blink as it will have no power on pin 2. So with SoCal problem that is lighting and then freezes would not happen if there was a problem with the sec light relay. It would not even start the blinking process. This will be part of trouble shooting process to arrive at the source of problem.

    Trouble shooting a problem requires you to eliminate all elements that work correctly until you arrive at something that doesn't work. You should also review what the last thing that happened that would have effected the system in trouble. Like an accessory installed to the system in question.

    So for SoCal's problem to start trouble shooting the intermittent operation of turn signals is to disconnect the Switchback LED. Take a test ride and review results. If there is no problem and the lights operate properly, then there is a problem with the accessory lights. There is a driver module that is part of the wiring leads that connect to the turn signals and side markers. If the unit goes bad, that may be the problem, the only solution is to replace Switchback lights with new ones,

    Just for your information, the driver is a programmed device that makes the switchback lights operated in the manner they do, switch from driving light display, turn off driving when turn signal is operated and flash amber lights. When flasher stops, switch back to the driving lites for driving conditions.

    You can test your switchback lights. Look at diagram below.


    would’ve been nice if @getrdone had listed the solution.....


    thank you samowens44 for staying on this. I am so busy at work I am unable to pop the hood and start looking at some of your suggestions. Please don’t take it as lack of interest I am just too busy right now to get into this but it is high on my list when I can.

    Grateful for all of your help!


    Understand SoCal, I figured work takes over and above Slingshot work. The information is there and hope it will help.

    For folks viewing this thread, I want to share some very important information about how the Turn Signal System works. The Flasher Module is the key device that provides all the Flashing of the Front and Rear Turn Signal LED s. The Module is solid state, meaning no relays or moving parts inside. It is a smart device in that it was designed to determine if the turn signal LED s are flashing properly front and back when activated. When you push the turn signal lever to left or right for turns, the flasher module get a signal from a set of contact on the lever that activate the left turn sig circuit. On the first blink action of the module it checks the current that is flowing in the front and rear LED s. There is a range of current that it checks to see that it is met. If the current is too high or low, it will freeze at that point. If within limits, you get flashing.

    When you add external LED accessories to the Turn Signal System you can possible cause this system to go over the limit range of the design of the system. If not over the limits, so close to it that some times it will reach over. Intermittent failure are a good possibility.

    I found all this out trying to install some LED Strip as a indicator that my turn signals are on. All worked fine when the engine was off, when I cranked up the engine, then the Flashing would not occur. When engine is running, the voltage goes up and there is a current increase, this put my system over the limit.

    My solution was to lower the resistance of the Aux LED's to draw less current, putting the system back into limits. It worked. I used a 100 ohm resistor in series with each of the Aux LED leads going to the OEM Left and right LED s

    Look at the simple wiring diagram attached below. I found 100 ohms worked for my LED s, if yours do not work go higher with the resistance, 200 ohms, until it works. You LED will not change that much in brightness.

    Your lights may draw more current than mine. You your are adding side marker addition LEDs you don't have to add this resistor, only on the turn signal leads.


    Here is a view of the Pin Layout of the Flasher module and will show what leads all the OEM turn Signal lights are connected.



    Note: The Flasher Module in held in position by a push pin, no screw. A Good pull downward should allow removal. Here is a video on where and how to remove it if needed.



    If you are experiencing a turn signal flashing failure after installing aux lighting systems to the turn signal leads, then to find out if this is causing your failure, unplug the aux system leads from the OEM turn signal leads. If you signals go back to flashing, then you need to add resistors to the leads before installing. Good Luck, I have been where you are tying to get.

    But looking at the schematic I don’t see any wires the come and go directly to the relays....they go to gang splices.....so I’m not understanding how everything is wired.

    All relays leads are ganged back to the ignition switch power. When it is turned to on, all relays get power. It also puts power on pin 2 of the Flasher thru the contacts of Sec Lights Relay. You can get totally lost trying to follow the wires on that wiring diagram. The service manual has most of the systems with simplified wiring diagrams that show only the leads and components that are a part of the system. That is what you want to look at. The diagram is mostly good for Pin connections id, wire colors, and list of what lead do in the circuit. That is what is most helpful. Also, wiring harness of today do not generally need to follow a wire all the way back to something. Most troubles will be the component, the connector, or a fuse.

    They really messed up on the relay designations and the wiring diagram designations. They make it hard to understand which relay they are talking about. When in doubt, pull it out and see what don't work.