Posts by SaltyClownNY

"shock sensor"? I've GOT TO get me one of those... may even ask the kids to go sit in it to test it... wow, this is a COOL FIND!

There, I sent you a PM. Check at the top of the page under conversations.

Yo, @sharps4065, sorry to hear you are having issues. PM me if you need to call me. Couple of things. One, which logs are you trying to download? There is the FIC logs and then there are the WBF logs. The FIC not sure you will get anything from. The USB for that plugs into the side of it and you may not have had the cable installed for it. The WBF has a USB as part of it. It comes with an extension cable for it as well.

Two things to note. My USB cable for the FIC was bad from the vendor. It refused to connect and kept saying it was off line. I stole the USB cable from another device and it connected immediately. Still have to tell it to connect, but was easy. The WBF was easy as well and recognized immediately. You needed 3 different software from AEM though.

I have NO clue how tomorrow is going to go, but I'll see what I can do if you need help. No bigy. Just PM and I'll provide my phone and you can txt me for timing.

I've had a lot of interest in radio harnesses in general and running from the dash to under the passenger seat. I just happen to have one specifically for ride command. I've been testing a few different configurations of things, but is solid.

Quote from mikeboztx

The Polaris and Slingmods sites show those 2 alarms don't work on a 2018. I had a choice a month ago to buy a 2017 or 2018. I wish I would have bought the 2017. I'm finding several accessories don't work on the 2018. (radio, alarm,service manual, wiring harness for radio and camera, & others.

What are you looking for Mike? I do have the 2018 manual. There have been some changes, but usually can get around it... What are you looking to do with the radio?

The USB cable for the WBF. I have mine coiled up in the engine compartment so I can get to it easily. If you look at the two USB supplied, one is a standard USB for the FIC. The other should be a USB extension cord (USB male on one side and female on the other side) so you can run it longer distances.

awww mannnnnnn.... this sucks. DO NOT OFFER A GROUP BUY FOR YOUR AIR RIDE SYSTEM... DO NOT... my wife will kick my ass out and I'll have to live in my sling with a smile on my face. Been looking at your systems for some time. Great stuff... just don't force me to buy anything!

Hey, go ask that on the group buy thread. This is the tech installation support thread! We don't need no stinkin' group buy conversation here LOL.

<choke>.... John's loosing his wires... thought it was supposed to be marbles... And just for clarification, it was NOT a wiring harness I had anything to do with... just sayin' ..

- I have the WP Exhaust
- I did install the PCV modification
- Had smoke, now don't.

I don't necessarily agree with Bill's assessment however. I would add the following facts (please correct any if you disagree):

• stock engine block operates at a higher pressure than a forged block
• the stock air intake has a PCV built into it to deal with pressure
• Bills air intake manifold as I received it plugs the stock PCV hole
• Welter exhaust is longer than stock and or Bill's exhaust and probably has more back pressure because of it.

Now in my opinion, it's the combination of the above that caused the TURBO to leak oil... which is what caused the smoking. But are any one of the above to blame more than others? I'd say if anything, the air intake manifold blocking the hole for the stock PCV was the cause of it and the others in combination are what led the turbo to not be able to drain the oil properly. Once a new (and replacement to stock) PCV was put in place, it appeared to take care of it, but the stock engine block is just as much to blame as WP exhaust. It's up to the vendor to supply a fix and Bill did just that, but to call out the WP exhaust is probably a bit unfair. If it were me and I had no smoke and using Bills exhaust and I didn't have the PCV valve, I'd be more inclined to put one in and I did recommend to Bill to send one out in all the other kits he sold. Not sure if that happened or not, but that is between Bill and them. Just an interesting data point. It's not like the "fix" of adding the PCV was expensive. I think it was under $20 total... or something like that.

Just a note, the plugs above have about 3K miles on them with the Hahn system. Think they look OK. Going to check to see if the 4th injector is just over injecting by moving it to Cylinder 3... maybe end of next week.

Reason why we are looking at this is more so to judge how well the air intake distributes the airflow into each cylinder. The thought was that if more air goes into cylinder 4, it will cause a lean condition. At the moment, it looks good to me and is more so running rich and not lean.

OK... John made me do it. Here is...

Hard pull in 2nd until 6500RPMs were hit and then hard pull in 3rd to 6K, then shut it off and coasted into driveway. Pulled the plugs. Now the picture is a "little" misleading, but essentially cylinder 4 was "wet", but not sure I understand why the wetness didn't dissipate that fast if it were gas, but not much more it can be. Very odd. Cylinder 1 looks a bit off from 2 & 3, but I think it may be the picture as they looked VERY close in real life. Cylinder 4 was the one that was questionable. You can see the pool coming off of it.

Cylinder 4 is on left, Cylinder 1 on right... in order.

And keep in mind this is just one test with one sling. Would be interesting to see how stock systems burn and or other systems / brands. This is using the FIC piggyback system.

Here, I just had to figure out what the heck I was looking at...

65557 9 Stability control can messages lost Can bus messages not present ON U2200

Hey all! Who has QA1 shocks? I thought there was a posting on some starting points for settings. What do you find as a good starting point for track days v/ street, etc? Anyone? Just wanted to see what others have found.

Here... maybe this will stump you. I have a code of 65557 (which is "Stability control can messages lost"), but has anyone seen a "65557 SPN 9FMI"?

Had alternator issues this weekend where the stock wire to the alternator fell out of the crimped lug ring. Battery fell to 7v and all the nanny lights went crazy. Check engine light is still on and figure it will be for a bit, but never seen that message. Also go the P3503 for speed signal still on. Hoping they go away in the next day or so.

Quote from funinthesun

If I'm not mistaken, DDM usually has free installations on their products at the events. Depending on the item, it's a far better deal than just a 10 or 15% discount from a vendor

Well, for me, some things I will buy just because it's a good deal as I really don't "need" hood extensions and valve covers and such... but if I feel I'm getting a good deal that shouldn't be passed up, I have no issues getting the wrenches out. I had actually just said "what the hell" on the last day a few hours before we left and checked, but just not going to pay full price. To be fair, I didn't ask them for a discount, but I definitely purchased quite a bit from slingshot only as their sale prices were right there. No big deal. I can wait for the end of the year sales... as I said, I don't need these, just would have been nice... and they look awesome. In most cases, I'll take the 10-15% as that is 10-15% more I have to spend on something else.

I need to look at the options. I was down at Maggie and was about to pull the trigger on DDM and like the look, but they weren’t offering any discounts there at the show and their venders had them on sale for less than list price. Was a lot of talk around the tent about not offering pricing discounts at the show. Have to agree that better pricing would have gotten my business for those and more.

Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Info

I put my rear wheel up front! Took the 20x9 and purchased another, so I have two 27OD Nitto 555 G2 255 on the front. Purchased an 18x10 for the back and been using a ~28OD tires there. Been messing with different tires. Had the MT on the back and just got another Nitto G2 295 come in to give that a try. Just trying to keep with the 1 inch larger in the rear.

O', hey... for all... this is kind of a cool info kind of site if you aren't used to wiring speakers. I'm not endorsing Crutchfield, but this page provides some links for different king of amplifiers / speaker combos and how wiring them changes the ohms.

Subwoofer Wiring Diagrams

Quote from Shatneyman

I have a couple speakers that sound OK when the volume is low, when you turn them up, they pop or crack once in a while. Are they blown? Not enough watts or wired wrong? nor sure what's going on. Need help please and thank you

check the wattage of your speakers and the amp. If you are running a 100w amp and 50w speakers, they will sound all distorted as you turn the amp up and you will blow them. Ride command has it's own amp (albeit a separate hardware behind the interface), but if you say use the same speakers from the stock system, it will sound like crap, but OK at very low volumes as the amp is twice the wattage as the stock system.

All the other stuff above is all good LOL. Not sure what stock setup you have, sounds like the base model and not ride command. The rear speaker out is for base signal, so I would recommend going with clipping into the high output wires and reducing the signal (unless the amps take high output that is). I use the "Scosche LOC80" to reduce the signal. I don't stock them though as they are a bit temperamental. Once you get one that works, it's good, but a common problem. Just easier to let another company handle it LOL. Wiring harnesses we do, but mostly are around ride command and haven't converted the stock stereo yet to a plug and play setup. Could probably provide something, but would have to take a look and see what adapters I need.