Posts by SaltyClownNY

Attention Vendors. Please email robert@rabtech.com any instruction manuals you may have for your products. They will be added to the FILEBASE tab for members to access.

    Thanks all. That is what I meant about should have read this before installing. None of the install directions mentioned this and my 2017 didn't have an locking collars on it, so I didn't know. Need to fix the bent parts and get me some locking collars.

    Guess I should have read this thread before contacting @Dave@DDMWorks, as I had mine swing about 4 inches side to side. My bigger issue is that the links bolts actually bent there was so much force on them. Installed according to directions/pictures. Anyone have a sway bar link bolt bend? I tried to get the nuts loose, so now I have loose nuts, but man the thing is f'd. They were tight when I first put them on. Anyone have this happen? Sent images to DDM last week, but haven't heard anything.


    I rode mine the other week from Albany NY to Buffalo. About a 4 hour ride nothing but highway. SO BORING... until the "kid" in the next car comes up to you doing 80MPH and starts acting as if he wants to race you. Not really sure if his car was boosted, but sure had a lot of stickers of performance shops on the side. Dropped it down to 4th and punched the gas (after making sure I could see ahead for the next mile or two) and the sling jumped to 120. The guy gave up fairly quickly and he was a little dot in my side mirror. Same thing happened with a Porsche the week prior, but was just lucky to keep up with him. I like the power... just wondering if there is any "more" to be gotten out of the Hahn setup. I have NOT switched it to 2X, so I know there is at least an extra 1PSI of boost there, but really don't want to replace my motor and put an end to this years riding season. Just trying to figure out how much more can I push it. According to Jeff Welter, his rear exhaust will handle up toe about a 340 or so HP. It sounds like a 10PSI boost is doable on the stock engine, but nothing is for sure. Just trying to milk the system I got...

    The ability to tweak your tune yourself. I understand that a lot of us don't need or want to touch the tune but there is a percentage of us out here that are comfortable making some tuning adjustments and don't like being at the mercy of 1 single guy in the whole world that can and will tune our bikes. I would gladly give the price of the Haltech to have the ability to tune my own ecm. Where are we if Bob gets hit by a train tomorrow. I'd just like to know that I have the ability to take my bike to the dyno on any given day and make adjustments. If they don't prove to be what I want then all I'd have to do is reflash it with the old program but as the situation stands if I want to make an adjustment I have to contact Bob, either directly or indirectly and ask if he is will to do the flash. Then remove the ecm and mail it to him and a few days or a week later get it back and install it and test it. If it ends up not being what I want then I can start the process all over again. It's not about the money spent it's about being able to do things for yourself in your own time frame without being at the mercy of someone else.
    Just to add to the above I would not want to have to start from scratch with an oem ecm and develop a tune. That would take way too much time and be way to dangerous. I have done that on dyno with the Kawasaki ecm with the guidance of a professional tuner. To attempt to do it any other way would have been disastrous. Tweaking a tune on the other hand is something a lot of us can/could do if we had the capability. Personally I'd want to do some data logging too!


    Just as soon as Haltech gets with the program and figures out how to keep the cruise control and the nanny's working then I will purchase one immediately but until then I will remain grateful that our friend Bob no only took the time to learn how to flash our ecm's but does it at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner. I just hope Bob watches out for those trains! :thumbup:

    I liked this the first day, but I do have to say that I can't agree more with @Ghost. I met Bob down at Maggie Valley and got a tour of what he is doing and some impressive shit! BUT... I don't like the fact that one person does this and all the rig-in-merole I have to go threw. Part of the reason I got Hahn's system truthfully was the fact that I want to learn about this stuff. Hahn's system allowed me that capability a bit more so. But defining didn't want something where I'm tied to the hip to someone. Now if Bob wanted to provide a class on how to do a tune and do it correctly and how to tweak things... I'M THERE!

    @FunCycle, Dave gave a post some time ago where the vendors are comparing each others systems. I agree that it's hard to do and in some ways, the vendors are putting their own system in the best light and working to discredit the other brands out there, so can be a bit misleading. My take away from Dave's comments was that there is a standards for measuring the system on the dyne and that they both have to be using the same standards. I would think it would be close.


    @Ghost LOL... Yes, there are a LOT of ways to do myself off. The key is that with my current setup, I'd like to get what I can out of it. The Hahn setup wasn't cheep all on it's own. If I'm at 250HP at the wheel now, is it possible to get to 275HP or even 300HP on the stock engine. I really have no desire to be at 1000HP, but I would like to get the most out of what I did purchase and at the moment, I don't feel as though that is the case. The system I know is capable of more, but when is it too much for the stock engine I don't know.

    That code is for a "CPU Failure". I would think that unplugging the battery for 10 seconds just clears everything possibly. Good luck!

    Thanks all!


    What I'm attempting to do is understand the limits of my turbo and a stock engine. Hahn provided a tune file that seems solid with the Street Race Intake manifold. We can argue about injector sizes and such and which system is better and they are all valid points, but doesn't change the fact that I have one and not replacing it right now until I feel like I've exhausted all my options to get what I can out of it.


    So that being said, the tune file for the FIC that was provided Bill had stated is getting about 250 HP at the wheel. So here are some facts I know of:

    • lots go into a 1/4 mile time. Surface conditions, tires, experience, etc.
    • My "experience" is novice, but I'm learning. Part of the reason for all this. Been messing with suspension and tires for a bit as well.
    • I have the machine to tweak and mess with. The above is basically staying at more or less a constant. So finding the best setup that gives me the fastest times is what I'm shooting for and then what can I do to improve that. Experience will come.

    So knowing the above...

    • With others running 340 HP or higher (although with supper chargers), I believe the 250HP is low for the Hahn system and what it can handle (on the VERY safe side). One option is to increasing HP. A better tune file and or putting the sling in the 2x is an option, but I have a stock engine. 2x will give me up to about 10PSI I believe.
    • I know the sling can be faster than 15.5 second quarter mile. So just trying to figure out what I can do with the setup I have. Examining boost pressure and HP is just one data point as Dave pointed out above, but finding the upper limit of what is "safe" seems to be what I'm attempting to do.
    • So figuring out what is the top PSI for the turbo we have with a stock engine is what I'm trying to figure out. How do you know what is too much... BEFORE you blow the engine LOL.

    Hey, question I've been thinking about... need some help with some info from folks like @Slingrazor and @ericastar76 who I believe are running stock engine and superchargers. Whats the high end of "safe" limits on the stock engine for boost pressure? I know some are running the 95 pulley and getting around 340HP, but what is the boost level for that? By my calculations, it's about 15 - 16PSI on a stock engine, no? Who else is running the supercharger with 95 pulley?

    Hey, what do you loose by going to Haltech? I was told that it was only the cruise control...

    Yo, @sharps4065, sorry to hear you are having issues. PM me if you need to call me. Couple of things. One, which logs are you trying to download? There is the FIC logs and then there are the WBF logs. The FIC not sure you will get anything from. The USB for that plugs into the side of it and you may not have had the cable installed for it. The WBF has a USB as part of it. It comes with an extension cable for it as well.


    Two things to note. My USB cable for the FIC was bad from the vendor. It refused to connect and kept saying it was off line. I stole the USB cable from another device and it connected immediately. Still have to tell it to connect, but was easy. The WBF was easy as well and recognized immediately. You needed 3 different software from AEM though.


    I have NO clue how tomorrow is going to go, but I'll see what I can do if you need help. No bigy. Just PM and I'll provide my phone and you can txt me for timing.

    I've had a lot of interest in radio harnesses in general and running from the dash to under the passenger seat. I just happen to have one specifically for ride command. I've been testing a few different configurations of things, but is solid.

    The Polaris and Slingmods sites show those 2 alarms don't work on a 2018. I had a choice a month ago to buy a 2017 or 2018. I wish I would have bought the 2017. I'm finding several accessories don't work on the 2018. (radio, alarm,service manual, wiring harness for radio and camera, & others.

    What are you looking for Mike? I do have the 2018 manual. There have been some changes, but usually can get around it... What are you looking to do with the radio?