OK, I'm lost... what the heck is this "1/4- 1/2- 3/4"... should I ask?
Has anyone seen a wind tunnel test done ?
Has anyone seen kits to fill in the big open areas in the front or kits to redirect any airflow ?
Is there any prove that those rear wings even generate any down force that Benefits it at a speed
Wind tunnel test DONE... sure. Was doing work with Boeing with their digital photograph department and they have a tunnel. Done with a Slingshot... nope. Most add ons I would think would increase weight and drag. I do know @WrongWheelDrive cracked his wing on his slingshot by doing over 120 MPH with it. Not sure how much down pressure you need to crack it, but was enough to crack.
Problem I see with the wings is sure, there is probably down pressure the faster you go, but I see the issue being that you need more down pressure at slower speeds... or that is my totally uneducated theory.
Thanks @rabtech for the info. I guess I have to go back to my MT rear wheel for a bit. I can say that they just repaved my road in front of my house and the soft asphalt really works well for sticking your wheel LOL. That and if I blow the engine I can turn into my driveway real quick
another radio install question
Im getting ready to install a diffrent radio in my 2017 SL. It has the small radio im putting in a 7 inch touch screen. I bought the harness from slingmods their telling me there is a 3 prong plug behind radio to plug into is this correct?
If I said "it depends", would that be OK LOL...
So different years had different plugs. The thing is, what year is your wiring harness as it may not be 2017? Now, if you have a 2017 slingshot that has a 2016 wiring harness... you have 3 prong plug and what they told you is correct. If you have a 2017 with a 2017 wiring harness, you have 4 prong plug. My 2017 slingshot has a 2016 wiring harness with 3 prong plug. According to Polaris's wiring diagram, the 2017 is supposed to have a 4 prong plug for the stereo. Who figured.
2018 they started with a 5 prong plug to support ride command.
PS... just in case... I do have these plugs in stock if you need an adapter.
Hey all. Sorry, been away with family matters with extended family and business. ... @frehleycomet. If you still need help, send me a personal message up top and I'll give you my cell phone. Can take it out in no less than 2 minutes. ... 10 seconds if you have some battery operated tools and know how LOL.
PS... need to know what "support" and what windshield you are installing though as you may need do do more than just remove stereo head. Ride Command has a different support bracket than the standard radio.
Thanks all. That is what I meant about should have read this before installing. None of the install directions mentioned this and my 2017 didn't have an locking collars on it, so I didn't know. Need to fix the bent parts and get me some locking collars.
Let me know where you sent the email, I didn't see anything come through about this, but I was out of the country and maybe missed it. You can send one direct to me though - Dave@ddmworks.com
Talk with you soon,
Sent via txt message as directed to. Was told it was the "tech line". 6004 phone number. Thanks!
Guess I should have read this thread before contacting @Dave@DDMWorks, as I had mine swing about 4 inches side to side. My bigger issue is that the links bolts actually bent there was so much force on them. Installed according to directions/pictures. Anyone have a sway bar link bolt bend? I tried to get the nuts loose, so now I have loose nuts, but man the thing is f'd. They were tight when I first put them on. Anyone have this happen? Sent images to DDM last week, but haven't heard anything.
Someone asked me about a CAI airbox down at Maggie Valley. They sent me a note and for the life of me I can't find the note. Looked on this site and on Facebook, etc... Was someone looking for an airbox down at Maggie? Been driving me crazy for weeks!
I rode mine the other week from Albany NY to Buffalo. About a 4 hour ride nothing but highway. SO BORING... until the "kid" in the next car comes up to you doing 80MPH and starts acting as if he wants to race you. Not really sure if his car was boosted, but sure had a lot of stickers of performance shops on the side. Dropped it down to 4th and punched the gas (after making sure I could see ahead for the next mile or two) and the sling jumped to 120. The guy gave up fairly quickly and he was a little dot in my side mirror. Same thing happened with a Porsche the week prior, but was just lucky to keep up with him. I like the power... just wondering if there is any "more" to be gotten out of the Hahn setup. I have NOT switched it to 2X, so I know there is at least an extra 1PSI of boost there, but really don't want to replace my motor and put an end to this years riding season. Just trying to figure out how much more can I push it. According to Jeff Welter, his rear exhaust will handle up toe about a 340 or so HP. It sounds like a 10PSI boost is doable on the stock engine, but nothing is for sure. Just trying to milk the system I got...
The ability to tweak your tune yourself. I understand that a lot of us don't need or want to touch the tune but there is a percentage of us out here that are comfortable making some tuning adjustments and don't like being at the mercy of 1 single guy in the whole world that can and will tune our bikes. I would gladly give the price of the Haltech to have the ability to tune my own ecm. Where are we if Bob gets hit by a train tomorrow. I'd just like to know that I have the ability to take my bike to the dyno on any given day and make adjustments. If they don't prove to be what I want then all I'd have to do is reflash it with the old program but as the situation stands if I want to make an adjustment I have to contact Bob, either directly or indirectly and ask if he is will to do the flash. Then remove the ecm and mail it to him and a few days or a week later get it back and install it and test it. If it ends up not being what I want then I can start the process all over again. It's not about the money spent it's about being able to do things for yourself in your own time frame without being at the mercy of someone else.
Just to add to the above I would not want to have to start from scratch with an oem ecm and develop a tune. That would take way too much time and be way to dangerous. I have done that on dyno with the Kawasaki ecm with the guidance of a professional tuner. To attempt to do it any other way would have been disastrous. Tweaking a tune on the other hand is something a lot of us can/could do if we had the capability. Personally I'd want to do some data logging too!
Just as soon as Haltech gets with the program and figures out how to keep the cruise control and the nanny's working then I will purchase one immediately but until then I will remain grateful that our friend Bob no only took the time to learn how to flash our ecm's but does it at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner. I just hope Bob watches out for those trains!
I liked this the first day, but I do have to say that I can't agree more with @Ghost. I met Bob down at Maggie Valley and got a tour of what he is doing and some impressive shit! BUT... I don't like the fact that one person does this and all the rig-in-merole I have to go threw. Part of the reason I got Hahn's system truthfully was the fact that I want to learn about this stuff. Hahn's system allowed me that capability a bit more so. But defining didn't want something where I'm tied to the hip to someone. Now if Bob wanted to provide a class on how to do a tune and do it correctly and how to tweak things... I'M THERE!
@FunCycle, Dave gave a post some time ago where the vendors are comparing each others systems. I agree that it's hard to do and in some ways, the vendors are putting their own system in the best light and working to discredit the other brands out there, so can be a bit misleading. My take away from Dave's comments was that there is a standards for measuring the system on the dyne and that they both have to be using the same standards. I would think it would be close.
@Ghost LOL... Yes, there are a LOT of ways to do myself off. The key is that with my current setup, I'd like to get what I can out of it. The Hahn setup wasn't cheep all on it's own. If I'm at 250HP at the wheel now, is it possible to get to 275HP or even 300HP on the stock engine. I really have no desire to be at 1000HP, but I would like to get the most out of what I did purchase and at the moment, I don't feel as though that is the case. The system I know is capable of more, but when is it too much for the stock engine I don't know.
Finished up nstalling my electronic/ electrical tray. Started it up and the check engine light threw this code.
Searched the internet and got my answer from someone posting on a different forum. Shout out to the fellow anonymous SS owner for your previous post.
The cure was to remove the ground wire from the battery for 10 seconds.
Now I have to figure out how to get the neutrino working.
It cleared the code. I’m happy.
That code is for a "CPU Failure". I would think that unplugging the battery for 10 seconds just clears everything possibly. Good luck!
What I'm attempting to do is understand the limits of my turbo and a stock engine. Hahn provided a tune file that seems solid with the Street Race Intake manifold. We can argue about injector sizes and such and which system is better and they are all valid points, but doesn't change the fact that I have one and not replacing it right now until I feel like I've exhausted all my options to get what I can out of it.
So that being said, the tune file for the FIC that was provided Bill had stated is getting about 250 HP at the wheel. So here are some facts I know of:
- lots go into a 1/4 mile time. Surface conditions, tires, experience, etc.
- My "experience" is novice, but I'm learning. Part of the reason for all this. Been messing with suspension and tires for a bit as well.
- I have the machine to tweak and mess with. The above is basically staying at more or less a constant. So finding the best setup that gives me the fastest times is what I'm shooting for and then what can I do to improve that. Experience will come.
So knowing the above...
- With others running 340 HP or higher (although with supper chargers), I believe the 250HP is low for the Hahn system and what it can handle (on the VERY safe side). One option is to increasing HP. A better tune file and or putting the sling in the 2x is an option, but I have a stock engine. 2x will give me up to about 10PSI I believe.
- I know the sling can be faster than 15.5 second quarter mile. So just trying to figure out what I can do with the setup I have. Examining boost pressure and HP is just one data point as Dave pointed out above, but finding the upper limit of what is "safe" seems to be what I'm attempting to do.
- So figuring out what is the top PSI for the turbo we have with a stock engine is what I'm trying to figure out. How do you know what is too much... BEFORE you blow the engine LOL.
Thanks Rob! Now are running a stock block?
Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
Thanks Rob! Now are running a stock block?
Sent from my iPhone using Polaris Slingshot Forum mobile app
Hey, question I've been thinking about... need some help with some info from folks like @Slingrazor and @ericastar76 who I believe are running stock engine and superchargers. Whats the high end of "safe" limits on the stock engine for boost pressure? I know some are running the 95 pulley and getting around 340HP, but what is the boost level for that? By my calculations, it's about 15 - 16PSI on a stock engine, no? Who else is running the supercharger with 95 pulley?
If you guys didn't already realize from previous research/posts, Bill is an exceptional writer and maybe even a more impressive speaker. See an example below...
He is far from a dummy by anyone's standards. It is easy to understand why people would have been talked into something and regretted it later.
On a different note, make sure you really research and understand the Haltech system. A lot of people talk about it and make it sound like it is much better and more capable than the stock ECM, which really isn't the case. You lose a lot of features when you switch and you need to pay someone to tune it correctly. Unless you are built motor with a custom boosted setup / high boost, it probably makes very little sense to go that route.
Hey, what do you loose by going to Haltech? I was told that it was only the cruise control...
"shock sensor"? I've GOT TO get me one of those... may even ask the kids to go sit in it to test it... wow, this is a COOL FIND!
There, I sent you a PM. Check at the top of the page under conversations.