Posts by SaltyClownNY

Thanks all for the info all! I guess there are 3 on the market... or soon to be 3? Will have to see what the pricing looks like for the holiday sales. We may be selling the house, so between two different states. Have to see what my attention span is this winter. It's interesting the configuration on the 3 are so different with shocks and brakes.

Quote from Kyle D

When you’re ready for a new clutch, give ours some consideration. I worked with clutch masters directly to develop the clutch for the slingshot specifically. Slightly stiffer pedal push than stock, the flywheel and disc are 1/2” larger than any other clutch out there, and will handle anything you can throw at it.

https://zzperformance.com/coll…erformance-clutch-upgrade

ZZPerformance, Go Fast Not Broke
EST 2000

Thanks Kyle. My issue is I just can't give it too much at the start and get on it quickly. I'll smoke the clutch every time if I try and shift too quickly. Could smell it a bit the other day going from 2 and 3rd if you shift too quickly. I know I'm pushing the clutch in all the way. Just need something that grabs faster. Just have to lay off the gas a bit longer before and after shifting. Just getting to the point where I need to start researching it as I'll be putting the sling up for the winter and can pull the engine at that point.

rabtech LOL... you know, I saw this shot on Facebook and thought, that looks like Robert's Sling and it said DDM on the back, but then figured... na....

I didn't see a conversion kit on their web site. It's got different suspension than the track hammer and wanted to see what they were installing. Thanks for the update. Been working too much lately and haven't had a chance to get over to the boards.

rabtech , have you considered a 4 week conversion to see what it can do? I've been curious for a while. Right now, I'm not pushing the power you have, but believe I need to look into a new clutch. The MT drag slick grabs a lot and I've smoked the clutch a few times. I know this can comes down to experience, but just seems like it's way too easy to do in my opinion. 4th wheel is a chunk of change, but may be fun to play with and see what I can get out of it.

Br4hm4 - forgot to ask... what gear ratio are you at for the back end?

Quote from Br4hm4

I had the data on my LG phone before I went to the iPhone. I only did about 8 1/4 mile runs and my best was 11.3. Next couple were around 11.8. The rest was in the 12s. Never even checked to see if 1/2 mile runs were an option...not that the Slingshot felt like it could do much over 125-130 in a half mile stretch.

Thanks. I think Rabtech did 136 in half mile... I believe, but yes, difficult. Now you have a forged block on yours. Did you ever have it dyno'd to see what the wheel HP was?

Quote from Br4hm4

When I ran my fastest 1/4 mile per the Draggy GPS device, I was able to rip a 3.62 0-60. 11.3 at 123 MPH. Those numbers don't really line up in my mind...I did notice that it fell flat as soon as I jumped in to 4th gear. This was with the Hahn turbo kit at 10-11lbs of boost and running the TrakHamr rear.

Thank you! This is what I've been looking for. With only one wheel, I can't get it under 6 at 9PSI. The sling doesn't do so well above 100mph as it's not so arrow dynamic, so makes a bit of sense for the 11.3. Do you have the 1/4 and 1/2 mile times off the Draggy?

Quote from kev

SaltyClownNY , no i did not , no actual documented times , that would be nice , Troy may have some, he does a lot of tracking with his various vehicles, which led to the development of the TrakHamr

Not sure what Troy's handle is. What was the outcome of the Wilwood brakes and air ride? If I can do a 6.34second 0-60 now, I'd like to see if I can do a 4 second with 2 wheels. The sling isn't a drag vehicle, but if I can get more traction in the 0-30 range, I'd like to see what it can do. Anyone have an opinion? Think it's capable? If I can hit 4's, you have my order!

I'd have to say I'm curious. Will have to see how much a kit is with the Wilwood brakes for a big brake setup on the trakhamr along with air ride. Been looking at air ride for a long time.

kev , did you ever get before/after times for track on the conversion kit on a sling that's boosted?

We had an inch of snow the other week... and yes, I realize it was the second week in May... don't rub it in.

Quote from EricRedSL

If you get a ride come in and work with earlier models such as 2015 please start a new thread 2015 to 2017 ride command upgrade . Sure would help trying to go through all the text messages and if people just limit your responses to the upgrade that would also help.

Mine is a 2017. Some things don't work with ride command, but nothing you can't do without. I like Ride Command, but there are definitely issues with them. What sold me on Ride Command? - Water proof, - getting more info on check engine lights when they happen, - UI

Still hearing about people with volume issues with Ride Command at high volumes. Has anyone taken theirs back to dealer for this and do they replace the amp? Was looking to see if the new 2020 software was backwards compatible with the older one and I guess not. Wasn't sure if the 2020 uses the same amp though. Anyone?

Anyone have a picture of the 2020 Ride Command amp? They don't list it on the RideCommand drawing on Polaris web site. Just found it odd. Looks like the connector is the same in the wiring diagram as the older model.

Awesome ride yesterday, but had a good amount of sputter from the engine over 5000 feet. I had thought that having the secondary ECU was to prevent that as it had it's own system. We were on it fairly hard, but noticed the AFR numbers started to dip a bit. Was in the 11-12 with RPMs up over 4000. Engine temp was a bit high as well at 215. First time I've gotten a sputter or it backfiring. Not sure if others have had similar issues.

I'll be at Maggie but not all week. I put my amp on spacers so they are off the floor about an inch.

I get exhaust in the thing now, but only after installing a top. I too have the MadStad 13", but also have the Welter duel rear exit exhaust. I'm still getting gas fumes from the engine bay, but that's a different issue. I know the Hahn turbo runs very rich too. Was the top that did it with the exhaust. Will have to mess with it in the next few weeks.

Quote from Soluga

I have an exhaust fumes problems with my side exit Hahn Exhaust.

Fumes

I also think that Funinthesun mentioned that the Welter side exhaust may not work if you have the Optima (Yellow) battery which i also have so just looking for suggestions with this in mind.

Thanks all in advance! (I want to get anything ordered asap as my sun lasts for a limited time up north! Plus a happy wife means a happy life and right now the ss toy is not useful to her! (Well kinda good for me but well perhaps not long term)

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Couple things I would try...

I too have a Welter exhaust. Duel rear and I also have a yellow top battery. No issues, but FunCycle - all good points.

I was down in Maggie last year when Welter introduced the "fix" for fumes. VERY expensive for some plastic pieces that taped onto the bottom of the sling. Not sure if anyone can speak to their success or not, but I heard a few people were loosing them as they fell off down the road. All it was were 3 pieces of 45deg. angle plastic pieces that moved the air downward as you drove. I didn't experience any issues, so never purchased them... until NOW. I put a top on the sling and now getting the smell. I actually don't mind it, but may have eaten too many paint chips when I was a kid too.

My fix will be to try a piece of rubber door molding. They sell it at Home Depot where it's metal stip with a piece of rubber mounted at a 45deg. angle on it. Get a 5 foot strip and mount it along the bottom of the sling to do the same thing, but at least if the rubber hits something, it will give a bit and I'm sure the faster I go the more it will flatten out which I won't be smelling it anyway with more airflow.

Now in your case, your's is coming out the side. I wonder if a piece of the same molding up front mounted in just the right spot would solve the issue? May be worth a try. It's something similar to this, but I know I've seen them at a 45 deg. angle....

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Fr…oor-Sweep-A79SN/301161844

The entire principle was to disrupt the airflow a bit under the sling. I'm traveling home this weekend and will be fitting my sling with one. If I can't find the 45deg. one, I'll have to make one. I have a siding break at the house and can make something I'm sure.

Good question Slingrazor. Thing is, I've never had to use a battery charger on it. I know they have ones that are made for the Optima and I know I don't have that. Now the battery tender that I have is I think fairly standard. I don't know if they have to be a certain type, but my guess was no... could be wrong. What I do know is that it's been running OK after this, but my fear is turning around and doing 1600 mile ride with it down to TN and having something go wrong. I have a few things I have to do to it though. I noticed the water pipe for coolant is touching the wrap around the muffler pipe the other day. Problem is I'm going to have to try shifting the entire motor over to fix it. Has to happen though as I noticed there are some paint scuffs on the blower for the turbo where it's tapping on the frame and that needs to stop too.

Thoughts on the battery tender? I need to look into the ground. I replaced a lot of stuff last year, but I'm still using the factory ground post which I don't like too much.

yeah, that's the thing. No real corrosion on the terminals. One has a wing nut on the top of it for things like the battery tender. The wing nut has a bit of corrosion, but everything else looks clean. Winters where we are can be very wet air though.

Thanks all for input!

so here's one other piece of detail. I pulled the battery and had it tested. Tested out fine. It's an optima yellow top. Now I know the post clamps were on there good and tight. I always worry about cranking down on them too much, but couldn't budge them. A few things changed. One, I totally disconnected the battery and two, the guy at the shop cleaned the terminals prior to testing with a wire brush. Put it back in and it started up just fine. So I'm left with thinking this is my issue and loose wire, but really pissing me off as I know everything was tight. So is there anything at all that could do this? It's almost like a relay wouldn't turn over or something. Maybe disconnecting the battery entirely reset something. I can own an id 10 T error too, but WTHell.

Thanks airoutlaw. Was thinking I should have gotten *something... even week headlights though. Not just a flash and nothing. I have an Optima yellow top battery. Thinking my son unplugged my battery tender this winter, but don't know how long it was unplugged. Was running fine for most the day. I'm wondering if my alternator is working correctly... hummmm.